Just did the H11 to H9 conversion.

[Graygoose]

Found my old ;post from 2012, I installed 9155's, will paste info I copied form a Ford forum back then, good info.

For those interested, I copied this form anF150 (yuk) forum.

But good info:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, you want to increase the light output down under to fill in the black hole? You've come to the right place. Here I will let you know what is and isn't safe to run in your truck.

Most vehicles come with either the 9140 or 9145 bulb (see chart above). The only difference between the two is wattage output. The 9140 puts out 40W of power, and the 9145 puts out 45W of power with 900 and 1100 lumens, respectively. There is a reason for this madness: HEAT. Chances are, you have a plastic fog light assembly. If so, you want to stay ~20% within OEM specs to avoid melting your lights and possible risk of fire. For vehicles with larger or metal housings, you can safely swap larger bulbs.

Now, if you scroll up and look at the bases of bulb, you will see the 9005, 9006 and 9100 series fog lamps all share the same base. WRONG. They are all different (9140, 9145, and 9155 share the same base). BUT. They are SLIGHTLY different. So with some force and dexterity, you will be able to put and bulb in any socket. For example, if you have a 9145 45W bulb, you CAN fit a 65W 9005 bulb in the same socket. The only difference is a slight off-adjustment of one of the three retainer lines (see above). However, you must be careful.

Vehicles equipped with plastic, round fogs (2006-2011 F-150, exc. Raptor) should not install bulbs over 45W of power! Since they come with 9140, a 9145 would be a good swap. Do not install 9155, 9005, or 9006 bulbs, you WILL melt your housings![/b]

Trucks with the rectangular (2004-2005) or metal housings (STX) are free to increase to highest wattage available (9005, 9011)


This is a flow chart, from least powerful to most powerful halogen drop-in replacements. Heat rating (H) is on a scale from 1 to 5, 1 being coolest and 5 being hottest.

9140- (40W @ 900 lu/H1.5) H10 not a good upgrade bulb, and OEM for some fog lamps. Next step: 9145
9145- (45W @ 1100 lu/H2) H10 bulb. Can be used as an upgrade from 9140 for slightly more light output without risking melting. Next step: 9155
9155- (55W @ 1350 lu/H3.5) H10, great upgrade (if you can handle the heat) from 9145. Next step: 9005
9005- (65W @ 1700 lu/H5) This is a great upgrade for those with metal/glass fog lamps or large housings. Next step: 9011
9011- (65W @ 2350 lu/H5) This is the HIR1. Can be swapped in place of the 9005 with minimal cutting. No heat increase (in comparison of 9005).

9006- (55W @ 1000 lu/H4) This would be used in the stock 1997 & 1998 F-150 fog lights. You can swap to the higher-output HIR2 9012 bulbs or use a different brand 9006 for more power. Next step: 9012
9012- (55W @ 1870 lu/H4) HIR2 bulb. Can be swapped in place of the 9006 with minimal cutting. 55W @ 1870 lumens. No heat increase (in comparison of 9006).

H3- (55W @ 1450 luH3) 55W transverse bulb. You can upgrade to 100W H3, but caution for heat. Next step: H3C HID.

H1- (55W @ 1550 lu/H3) 55W axial filament bulb. Can be upgraded to 100W H1, but caution for heat. Next step: H1 HID

 

[medicineman]

HI guys, All who are interested, the HID conversion is simple and consistent. I have had mine since 2012 on my 2004 1500 4x4 with no faults, no bulb replacements and I have the cure for the radio interference. I can advise anyone interested just what to do to stop the RFI. It is a simple process and will cost aprox $ 12.00. I will post cure for RFI later as I am on Christmas vacation and I do not have the part numbers memorized and the source.

 

[medicineman]

HID radio interference cure. I just looked up the part numbers for what you will need to cure the problem completely. When I installed HIDs I could not hear anything but the closest stations. To cure the problem order two part number 17842FL ferrite chokes for each HID bulb you need to quite, from Marlin P Jones Company @ 1-800-652-6733. Place one of these chokes around the high voltage wire at 3 inches from the power pack , and place one at 3 inches from the bulb itself. In the rare event that this does not completely stop the RFI place a third choke at the 12 volt input of the power pack by looping the wire through the choke one time and snapping it shut. Do this and your problem is solved.

 

[Razzman]

IMO and just my preference, way to many possible failure points for me with HID. Sticking with the reliability of halogen bulbs and doing the 9011 swap tomorrow as well. Probably stick a 9005 in the fogs if it fits.

 

[Wahrsuul]

Besides HIDs causing problems for some people, there's also a cost difference. And just seeing the post above, now you have to spend more to fix an issue you shouldn't be having.

And the fact that it's mostly illegal to put HIDs in a halogen housing. Not that it stops people from doing it and blinding other drivers, but that's their problem....

 

[medicineman]

Well, I had changed out the OEM light housing for ones specific for HID. Not that expensive and look really great, neither are the HID lights are not that expensive. The look and operate fantastic. You simply get what you pay for in looks and performance.

 

[VeDubb]

Curious, why did you take the grill out?

You have to pull the grill to access the headlight housing and bulbs.

 

[VeDubb]

Fog bulbs (9145) is the same as 9006.

 

[VeDubb]

Y'all do yourselves a favor and forget HID's or even putting in the wrong model bulb. HID ballasts are junk and need replacing 1-2 time a year. Available on ebay is LED bulbs that are within a couple hundred lumen of HID, have no ballasts, and are 6500K. Mine look great!

 

[Wahrsuul]

Well, I had changed out the OEM light housing for ones specific for HID. Not that expensive and look really great, neither are the HID lights are not that expensive. The look and operate fantastic. You simply get what you pay for in looks and performance.

I'm curious, what housings are made for HIDs? Never seen any other than projectors. Maybe you do get what you pay for, but the added expense of new housings along with the expense of HIDs - which are prone to issues - just doesn't add up for me. As for HIDs in general, I've owned a few vehicles in the past 10 years, and with pretty much every one, I've been on the support forums for that car/bike. HIDs are always a discussion/debate, and I see issues all the time. Just not worth it for me when there's a cheaper/proven reliable option. LEDs are coming along fast, and they'll pass HIDs eventually in older vehicles. They already have in new ones.

Not saying your decision/option is wrong, it's just not for me.

 

[Razzman]

You have to pull the grill to access the headlight housing and bulbs.

Actually you don’t, I’ve done it twice now without removing the grill. Plenty of vids to support that.

 

[Razzman]

Y'all do yourselves a favor and forget HID's or even putting in the wrong model bulb. HID ballasts are junk and need replacing 1-2 time a year. Available on ebay is LED bulbs that are within a couple hundred lumen of HID, have no ballasts, and are 6500K. Mine look great!

I have yet to see an led headlight bulb in a vehicle not designed for it that doesn’t either have too much light scatter or too much light right in front of vehicle. OEM led headlights work much better because the lens optics are designed for led bulbs, these are not. I’ll pass

 

[Graygoose]

Headlight Revolution has some LED's, pricey, but have good cutoff like the factory ones. $180 for headlights, about the same for fogs though.

 

[medicineman]

I love my HID s.As far as reliability, I have not had the first issue. When I decided to keep my 2004 and not trade I went with a custom paint job, new wheel bearings, rotors, calipers all around. New universal joints and also a complete AC rebuild, all components including fans, radiators etc. Then got a new water pump, power steering pump, all new plugs and coil packs, so spending a few extra bucks on lighting was not a problem.

 

[Razzman]

So did 9005 to 9011 conversion today. Pre-clipped the bulbs before hand so it took about 40 minutes total to do both highs and lows. Then of course had to wait all day to see the results. Took the wife to dinner tonight and covered city, freeway and back roads and it’s vastly improved over the 9005 bulbs. The projector lows are way better, I feel I can see now. The highs are insane compared to what they were. I pulled up to a wall and noticed they are off a bit so I’ll adjust tomorrow. Not going to be mistaken for HID but I’m happy. Now to change fogs to 9012’s.

 

[blackbeautyhemi]

Now I’m getting confused.. we were talking about h11 to h9 swaps and now it’s 9005 to 9011, and 9012 instead of 9005 in fog lights. Which is what? Lol

 

[Graygoose]

low beam H11 to H9, I'm sure 9005 is high beams swap.

 

[blackbeautyhemi]

low beam H11 to H9, I'm sure 9005 is high beams swap.

Got ya! I keep forgetting high and low isn’t one bulb like my old 2006.

 

[Sweetee]

Being one who would like "more power" for my Ram, I am confused by those who are replacing 9005s with H11s. When I look at the ratings at both Sylvania and Phillips, both bulbs are rated at 55 watts. Am I missing something? I really don't want to go the HID route and know that LEDs in projectors aren't practical. I also see that some are putting 65 watt bulbs in their fogs. Is this too much heat for a '17 Laramie? All expertise is appreciated! Happy New Year! Stay safe. Of course, if you are reading this, you are in my demographic. (Those too old to go out on New Years Eve!)

 

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

now Id like to know what the foglight plug and play upgrade would be...hmmm.

I got these and couldn't be happier. They've been perfect since I got them.