Lift Recommendation?

[4XLGATOR]

What kind of lift kits would you recommend for my truck. It's a 2006 Mega 3500 (SRW) 4x4. I have a 2" leveling kit but my 35's rub at every hard turn. I have BW pocket flares to go on but don't want to put them on until I fix the rubbing issue. I have a 35' 5th wheel RV so I can't go too high, although I would love a 6" if I can get rid of the RV. I got some good info from RH and others in another section but really would like your (Performance Lifts) opinion as well.

Thanks.

 

[ramhunter9]

Lee , Jeff will take good care of you , just be patient as he is a busy man but he will get back to you .

 

[PerformanceLifts]

What wheel are you running? Width and back space?

The reason I ask... I've run 37x13.50 Toyo MT's on my 2005 Ram 2500 4x4 with a 3" Carli kit and had minimal initial rubbing on the plastic inner wheel well liner. I used a heat gun and pushed the inner liner away from the tire and as it cooled it holds its new shape (farther away from the tire - gained clearance).

I could jump the truck 2-3' in the air and it would not rub, even when the airbumps were at max compression.

These trucks will clear a 35" tire with a stock height suspension and stock wheels or an aftermarket wheel with the same width and back space as stock. Once you run a wheel that's either too wide or has too little back space you open a can of worms. The amount of lift necessary to properly clear a 35" tire on the wrong wheels will depend on the wheel width and back space.

-Jeff

 

[4XLGATOR]

Wheels are Diamo 8-karat 18" x 9" with 4.61 backspacing. Tires are Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/70R18. Everybody I talked to said they would clear fine but I'm certainly interested in your input.

The black plastic wheel well liner is what they are rubbing on. I have heat guns on all my trucks at work. I could try to see if that works but I'm still concerned that the little bit of thickness the bushwhacker pocket flare will add might cause additional rubbing.

I will try the heat gun and then check the clearance for it and the flare. However, if you don't mind I would still appreciate to hear what you have to say with the wheel and tire measurements.

Thanks much.

 

[ramhunter9]

I measured my flares for you . Looks like the extra thickness of the flares are 1/8 inch . Hope that helps

 

[4XLGATOR]

I measured my flares for you . Looks like the extra thickness of the flares are 1/8 inch . Hope that helps

Thanks Dave. I don't think I'll have a problem with them. I'm gonna have one of my guys bring a heat gun into my office tomorrow and try to push that black plastic liner back a little...I think someone on the other forum recommended that before but I had forgotten.

I still want to see what Jeff has to say about the wheel size and backspacing in relation to a lift kit.

Your truck looks sweet with that 6" lift.

BTW, why did you go back to 35's?

 

[ramhunter9]

Ya the 35's give me all the flex I need as Im off road hunting ect with it most of the time .

 

[PerformanceLifts]

The factory Dodge Ram 2500/3500 wheels have anywhere from 6.00" inches to around 6.25" inches of back space. You have gone to an 18x9" wheel which is at minimum 1" wider than an OEM wheel. Your new wheels have considerably less back space, around 1.5" inches. That means you now have about 2.50" inches of additional wheel sticking farther out (away from the frame) than with an OEM Dodge wheel.

The widest factory Dodge tire we're seeing off the dealer lot is a 265 series tire. These are only 10.50" inches wide. You have installed a 11.50 wide tire. So you have 1/2" of increase in overall width from the larger tires. That means overall you are running a tire/wheel combo that sticks out almost 3" inches more than an OEM setup. Those 3" inches might not sound like much but as you can see from your tire rubbing issue it is making all the difference in the world.

In my opinion the 18x9 wheel with 4.61" inches of back space is the wrong wheel for the truck. The 295/70/18 is just under 34.5" inches in diameter. That's a small 35" tire. If you had the correct wheel size/backspace this tire would clear with no lift and no rubbing.

To clear a true 35" diameter tire with this wheel combo will require 4 to 5" inches of lift. Another option is you can move and trim away the inner wheel well material to provide additional clearance. A couple of ZIP ties on the inner liner run forward to the bumper support can help. It will pull the liner away from the tire. Drill two holes about two inches apart in line with the front bumper support. Thread 1 zip tie through those holes and wrap it around the bumper support. The tighter you snug this zip tie down the more it will pull the liner forward. If you are rubbing on the rear portion of the liner or fender a pair of longer control links can be used. This will allow you to push the entire front axle assembly forward (not much, but sometimes it's enough) which can gain additional clearance. The farther the axle moves forward the less clearance you'll have in the front. It's a tradeoff. On these trucks it's usually easier to clearance material in front of the front tires than it is at the firewall side.

Regarding the current tire rub... where is the tire rubbing right now that has you must concerned?

-Jeff

 

[4XLGATOR]

WOW! Outstanding information, Jeff. And it figures the backspacing is wrong, the guy that sold them to me swore they were fine for my truck...imagine him wanting to sell them, huh? I really love the wheels but had he told me I would've selected another wheel that fit properly, because I hate having issues such as this. What to do now, I don't think it's an option to sell the wheels and lose money at this point, I've only had them about 6 months.

In regards to the rubbing, it is rubbing on the black plastic liner to the rear of the wheel well/fender. It appears I have plenty of clearance in the front. And the rear isn't rubbing by much. I am going to try to heat gun first to see if the fixes the issue, and gives me enough clearance for the flares. Moving the axle forward is too big of a job for my tool chest. I'm sure I could find a shop to do it, but how much money do you think (ballpark, not holding you to it) it would cost for parts and labor? Although I would love the height of 4" or 5" lift, the control links may be a better option until I can get rid of my RV.

Again, the information is greatly appreciated...I don't mind saying that I'm still learning.

 

[Boo Radley]

We see trucks and Jeep Grand Cherokees at the dealership all the time that rub the front of the wheel liner. Poking a hole with a hot soldering iron and just using zip ties to hold the liner tight to the front bumper (as Perf. Lifts suggests) is very often all that is needed to stop rubbing issues.

I always look there first when someone complains about tire rub.

 

[4XLGATOR]

We see trucks and Jeep Grand Cherokees at the dealership all the time that rub the front of the wheel liner. Poking a hole with a hot soldering iron and just using zip ties to hold the liner tight to the front bumper (as Perf. Lifts suggests) is very often all that is needed to stop rubbing issues.

I always look there first when someone complains about tire rub.

Thanks, but mine is rubbing the rear liner.

 

[PerformanceLifts]

Do the tires rub when you turn left or right and the suspension is more or less at normal ride height? Do the tires only rub when the wheels are turned and the suspension is under compression? Normally with these trucks you gain some clearance as the suspension is compressed. The axle swings an arc up and forward as the suspension compresses until the links are parallel. The leveling kit is probably making things worse as the front axle has been pushed down which is now causing the front axle to move down and rearward. Picture the letter C - your suspension is moving in a basic C shape via the control links and their pivots. Think about it this way... hold your hand straight out toward the horizon. Keep your arm stiff and drop hand your down. Notice how your hand is getting closer to your body as it falls? The same is true of your front suspension.

Moving the front end forward is easier than it may seem. Longer control links, a driveshaft spacer, that's about it. You can gain a 1/2" to 3/4" of clearance simply by pushing the front axle forward that same amount. If you are happy with your current ride height, meaning it's tall enough for you, this is the route I'd take. You won't gain any lift but you will gain clearance for the tire/wheel combo you are running.

-Jeff

 

[4XLGATOR]

The tires rub on the left and the right when almost at full lock in either direction, at normal right height. Moving the axle 1/2" forward would certainly resolve the issue. However, I will first try to reform the plastic liner with a heat gun. And actually, where it is hitting the liner, the liner is actually bubbled toward the tire a bit.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help.

 

[4XLGATOR]

Jeff, what is your opinion of the RevTek 7004D-3?

I'm sure you know but it is a 4.5" suspension lift for 2003-2008 Dodge Ram 3500 w/cummins. It is described as a complete kit.

From a post on another forum, a guy/shop PM'd me and said he is no longer stocking RevTek and is clearing these out to make room for next years inventory. Because they are clearance, all sales are final but he assured me that it is brand new and in box. He says MSRP is $1200 but he has them on clearance for $600 and free shipping to the lower 48.

Is this a good lift, is that a great deal? I'm still going to try to heat and push the liner back for clearance now. But is this a good enough deal to go ahead and buy it, then install after the RV is sold/gone?

Let me know please. I'm going to post this is another section to get more opinions as well. Thanks bud.

 

[PerformanceLifts]

It's not a kit we recommend or sell. The biggest problem is guys don't care for the way the truck rides and that's a front spring and shock issue. The control links are pretty cheap, nothing fancy and not adjustable. For the money it's an ok value (it's cheap) but it's not a kit I'd run on my own personal truck. And I like Revtek, they make some great products. This one just isn't one of them. Ask yourself why anyone would sell off kits at 1/2 price? The Jobber for this kit is $1230.76. Selling it at $600 bucks is a closeout price. That means the kit isn't moving anywhere near the regular price and if that's the case there's usually a reason why...

-Jeff

 

[4XLGATOR]

^^^Yeah, I see your point. Matter of fact, I just did some google searching for it online and found a couple other shops selling the same kit for $597 and $715.

Does that ProComp lift $400 rebate you have going come around very often? Do they make a kit for my truck that is in the rebate plan?

 

[4XLGATOR]

The rubbing issue has been resolved...for now. On the driver's side there was a hump in the inner liner causing most of the rubbing. I heated it up and pushed it back with the head of a hammer. While pushing towards the rear on the liner, I noticed it moved at least a 1/4", maybe more. I also noticed that the fender lip on the bottom (inside the wheel well) was outward, a few light taps with a rubber hammer moved it away from the tire, and with that the inner liner moved away from the tire as well.

So, I now have clearance for normal driving, but any articulation and the rubbing will be back. I drive fit the flares, and they may have to trimmed a little where they wrap inward at the bottom of the wheel well to clear. But again, under articulation rubbing will be a problem.

I think I'm good for now as I don't go off-roading and unfortunately I haven't been hunting in the last 5 years or so. But as soon as my RV is gone, she's getting lifted. And when I'm ready to do that, I will certainly contact you first, Jeff.

Again, thanks for your time and help, it is greatly appreciated.