Lifter failure again… how to bulletproof?

[Scottly]

Dumb question of the day: Hasn't someone thought of a way to install oil squirters to spray the cam from the top? Seems like that would do the trick...Just not sure how to do it.

 

[wes8398]

Dumb question of the day: Hasn't someone thought of a way to install oil squirters to spray the cam from the top? Seems like that would do the trick...Just not sure how to do it.

AFAIK, too many people are still stuck on theories of metallurgy issues with the cams and lifter quality deficiencies for an oiling remedy to gain enough traction. Sure sounds like a great solution to me, though. A few squirters that tap right into that nice big oil tube that runs between the cam and crank would probably be the end of this issue. IMHO, that is.

 

[Wild one]

From someone who lives in a place where winter temps get into the -20 to -30 range and summer temps get well over 100, I can tell you for a fact that idling is indeed *not* necessary in either of those situations. It's not the 60's anymore. Vehicles are meant to be *driven* (albeit gingerly, for a bit) to warm up/cool down. Once your high idle drops, put that thing in gear and start moving. Sitting there idling isn't doing anything for the rest of your lubricants/moving parts, and it's extremely inefficient at actually warming up the engine. The extended time running "open loop" (see: very rich) isn't good for components, either.

Well bud,it's supposed to be -40 tonight with windchills approaching -50C(-59F) out west and you're not gonna let it idle to warm up,bullsh!t dude.Plus if you're stuck in a traffic jam like we had with all 3 lanes of the highway closed for over an hour due to a mutli-vehicle pile up,i can guarantee you,you're not shutting it off Only Southern Ontario gets 100+ in the summer,and you southern boys have no clue what -50C is like

 

[wes8398]

Well bud,it's supposed to be -40 tonight with windchills approaching -50C(-59F) out west and you're not gonna let it idle to warm up,bullsh!t dude.Plus if you're stuck in a traffic jam like we had with all 3 lanes of the highway closed for over an hour due to a mutli-vehicle pile up,i can guarantee you,you're not shutting it off Only Southern Ontario gets 100+ in the summer,and you southern boys have no clue what -50C is like

Well aren't you a sanctimonious little **** today...

Any idea what it's like to live on a large body of water, and the huge impacts that has on temperatures? You wanna talk about wind chills... LoL But I'm not here to measure peckers about who lives in the harsher climate (what a weird hill to defend for someone whose too much of a p___y to drive a cold truck for a few minutes LoL), so anyway...

My comment is very obviously in reference to start-up idling to "warm up", not idling in traffic (imagine... traffic jams happen elsewhere in the world, too!). Adding irrelevant "arguements" like that just shows how weak your argument actually is.

The fact of the matter is that my comment is completely accurate. No gasoline ICE-equipped vehicle made in the last 3+ centuries requires (or prefers) extended cold-start idling to "warm up". The most effective and most healthy way to warm them up is to DRIVE them.

At -40, you could idle that thing out in the driveway for an hour, and you still probably wouldn't even see the thermostat open, let alone the oil temperature get anywhere near full operating temp. And how about your trans fluid? Yah, that's still cold ASF. Diff fluid? Same. Steering fluid? Same.

Now if you just would have sucked up the chilly seats for a minute and got in the damn truck and started to DRIVE it... Everything would be sufficiently warmed within 15 minutes. AND, you won't have fuel-washed your cylinders and dumped a bunch of raw fuel into your cats and so on from all that open loop idling, either.

 

[Wild one]

Well aren't you a sanctimonious little **** today...

Any idea what it's like to live on a large body of water, and the huge impacts that has on temperatures? You wanna talk about wind chills... LoL But I'm not here to measure peckers about who lives in the harsher climate (what a wierd hill to defend for someone whose too much of a to drive a cold truck for a few minutes LoL), so anyway...

My comment is very obviously in reference to start-up idling to "warm up", not idling in traffic (imagine... traffic jams happen elsewhere in the world, too!). Adding irrelevant "arguements" like that just shows how weak your arguement actually is.

The fact of the matter is that my comment is completely accurate. No gasoline ICE-equipped vehicle made in the last 3+ centuries requires (or prefers) extended cold-start idling to "warm up". The most effective and most healthy way to warm them up is to DRIVE them.

At -40, you could idle that thing out in the driveway for an hour, and you still probably wouldn't even see the thermostat open, let alone the oil temperature get anywhere near full operating temp. And how about your trans fluid? Yah, that's still cold ASF. Diff fluid? Same. Steering fluid? Same.

Now if you just would have sucked up the chilly seats for a minute and got in the damn truck and started to DRIVE it... Everything would be sufficiently warmed within 15 minutes. AND, you won't have fuel-washed your cylinders and dumped a bunch of raw fuel into your cats and so on from all that open loop idling, either.

Little tidbit for you bud,300 years ago there were no ICE vehicles on the road,they were still using horses and buggies to get around then,lol.
Another tidbit for you,the pump in the transmission is always turning once the engine is running,circulating oil,and anytime you pump fluid it's going to warm up,throw in the fact all 8 speed 1500's preheat the transmission fluid with coolant,and anything after 2017 also heats the engine oil with coolant,so letting it idle to warm up,is also going to warm up the engine oil and transmission fluid.Little tidbit once they hit 160F they drop out of open loop and go to closed loop,so your theory of flooding the cats with raw fuel doesn't really apply after a couple minutes of idling.
Another tidbit for you,all 1500's after 2013 use electric steering.I'll just chalk it up to you living in the stone age and still using a horse and buggy to get around for your lack of knowledge about the late model trucks,it's understandable when you think ICE vehicles have been around for 300+ years.
You did know a "century" is a 100 years i hope,otherwise our Canuck school system leaves a whole lot to be desired,lol

 

[wes8398]

...

Let me address your "tidbits", bozo:

1) I obviously misspoke when I said century rather than decade... A thousand apologies oh smug one.

2) Simply circulating the trans fluid doesn't inherently warm it (to any significant degree)...especially when the pan is sitting at minus a million degrees.

3) Using cold coolant to "warm" the trans fluid or engine oil isn't very effective, and even coolant takes a LOT longer than "a couple minutes" of idling to start warming up to any significant degree... Have a look at your coolant temp readout next time. Of course, plugging in your block heater will help this, but if you're plugging a block heater in then that's even more reason to just get in the damn truck and start driving it.

4) Yes, open loop ceases when the thermostat opens. But I guarantee you that you're not going to see 90* coolant temps in "a few minutes" of idling in -40* ambient temps... Even with your block heater being used.

All this just because you're too much of a baby to get in a chilly truck for a few minutes until the heat starts working... Yah, you're a real tough one, bud. Maybe you should consider a move to southern Ontario

 

[Wild one]

Let me address your "tidbits", bozo:

1) I obviously misspoke when I said century rather than decade... A thousand apologies oh smug one.

2) Simply circulating the trans fluid doesn't inherently warm it (to any significant degree)...especially when the pan is sitting at minus a million degrees.

3) Using cold coolant to "warm" the trans fluid or engine oil isn't very effective, and even coolant takes a LOT longer than "a couple minutes" of idling to start warming up to any significant degree... Have a look at your coolant temp readout next time. Of course, plugging in your block heater will help this, but if you're plugging a block heater in then that's even more reason to just get in the damn truck and start driving it.

4) Yes, open loop ceases when the thermostat opens. But I guarantee you that you're not going to see 90* coolant temps in "a few minutes" of idling in -40* ambient temps... Even with your block heater being used.

All this just because you're too much of a baby to get in a chilly truck for a few minutes until the heat starts working... Yah, you're a real tough one, bud. Maybe you should consider a move to southern Ontario

You actually think they wait till the coolants at 203F before it goes to closed loop,LMAO. The EPA would shut them down long before the trucks hit 203F,lol.You sir need to do a little more research,before you start to talk
I'm out,as it's not worth wasting anymore time with you
Have a good night

 

[wes8398]

You actually think they wait till the coolants at 203F before it goes to closed loop,LMAO. The EPA would shut them down long before the trucks hit 203F,lol.You sir need to do a little more research,before you start to talk
I'm out,as it's not worth wasting anymore time with you
Have a good night

Way to nitpick one little thing that's easy to conflate rather than make any valid arguements...again. LoL To be clear, I didn't say the system waits until 203* to go closed loop. If you weren't just trying to be contrary, you'd read that point how it was intended. Closed loop happens at ~165*. I was simply saying you're not going to get to full operating temp (where many people seem to consider their engine "warmed" for some silly reason). You're not going to get to ~165 idling in the driveway in -40 temps for a few minutes either. Hopefully that's more clear for you.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Depends upon the "context" as a now famous unemployed university head stated.

 

[blackbetty14]

Bingo!
The Hemi doesn’t flow enough at idle and the watery stock oil for MDS doesn’t leave enough lubricant film during prolonged idle.
Once over 1500 rpm there is more than enough oil thrown onto cam and rollers, but stop and go is ut-oh for 5.7L Hemi.

I don't want to split hairs and not arguing but the fact that my 2018 stock ram has 36-38psi of oil pressure at hot idle proves that there is more than enough "oil flow" at idle. Once the throttle is touched 55+psi which is theoretically good for 5500rpms of oil flow/pressure. I get the idea of splash being higher as RPMs/oil flow/pressure is increased but what increase are we really seeing and does it overcome the additional wear of that 250rpms constantly. The 5w20 would actually be better suited in the colder engine temps for startup for splash and piston ring oiling.

I also wonder the validity of the bumping rpm by 250rpms if it really benefits anything. It's only 250rpms and its maybe 10psi of additional oil pressure. I also don't see it being a huge difference in how much oil its flinging up on the cam and lifters. Pump Flow rate increase would be negligible, rpms is minimal and the pressure increase means nothing. I almost wonder if overfilling would provide more splash if it can get above the wind-age tray. I see the potential negatives being efficiency losses and aerating the oil.

FWIW other V8 OHV engine designs are capable of surviving with 5-10psi of oil pressure at idle. I personally didn't realize I had 0-4psi of oil pressure at 2000rpms due to a stuck oil pump bypass valve in a LS swapped C3 vette and drove with it like that for 50 miles and the engine still runs with a new pump. This could be a design flaw with the raised cam design in the Hemi tho.

 

[blackbetty14]

I also pulled this off of Bobistheoilguy. Blue is what I run (happens to have the highest film strength), yellow and green are what I see the most of on this forum and the results are kind of crazy. I have also runt he amsoil signature and that oil did great in my blackstone lab report after extended use.

This was a film strength test run by 540 RAT over at Speedtalk.com. He used an oil load carrying capacity/film strength” tester to test 44 motor oils. The psi each oil supported was calculated, yielding the value of its load carrying capacity/film strength.All oils were tested at 230 degrees F.I have excerpted below but here is the link to the full write-up: Film Strength Test

Regular Mobil 1 5W-30 had a film strength of 105,875 psi while Mobil 1 5W-30 EP only had a film strength of 83,263 psi. Anyone find that surprising?

Here are the results he came up with:1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 115,612 psi(No API SN available for this test)2. 10W30 Lucas Racing Only = 106,505 psi3. *** 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi4. 0W30 Amsoil Signature Series 25,000 miles, API SN = 105,008 psi5. 10W30 Valvoline NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil = 103,846 psi6. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN = 103,517 psi7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi8. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (black bottle) = 101,139 psi9. 5W30 Chevron Supreme conventional, API SN = 100,011 psi10. 5W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 99,983 psi11. 20W50 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 96,514 psi12. 30 wt Red Line Race Oil = 96,470 psi13. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN = 96,364 psi14. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi15. 5W30 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 95,717 psi16. 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 Racing Oil = 95,543 psi17. 5W20 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,543 psi18. 5W30 Castrol GTX conventional, API SN = 95,392 psi19. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil = 95,360 psi20. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi21. 5W30 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 94,744 psi22. 5W20 Mobil 1, API SN = 94,663 psi23. 5W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,460 psi24. 5W30 Lucas conventional, API SN = 92,073 psi25. 5W30 O'Reilly (house brand) conventional, API SN = 91,433 psi26. 5W30 Red Line, API SN = 91,028 psi27. 5W20 Royal Purple API SN = 90,434 psi28. 5W20 Valvoline Premium Conventional, API SN = 90,144 psi29. 30 wt Castrol Heavy Duty conventional, API SM = 88,08930. 10W30 Joe Gibbs HR4 Hotrod Oil = 86,270 psi31. 5W20 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM = 86,034 psi(No API SN available at test time)32. 5W30 Royal Purple API SN = 84,009 psi33. 20W50 Royal Purple API SN = 83,487 psi34. *** 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile, API SN = 83,263 psi35. 0W20 Castrol Edge with Titanium, API SN = 82,867 psi36. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) = 74,860 psi37. Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 Nitro 70 Racing Oil (semi-synthetic) = 72,003 psi38. 0W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,377 psi39. 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 (semi-synthetic) = 71,206 psi40. 15W50 Mobil 1, API SN = 70,235 psi41. 5W30 Motorcraft, API SN = 68,782 psi42. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) = 66,211 psi43. 10W40 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil conventional, API SJ = 65,553 psi44. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi

 

[joesstripclub]

I don't want to split hairs and not arguing but the fact that my 2018 stock ram has 36-38psi of oil pressure at hot idle proves that there is more than enough "oil flow" at idle. Once the throttle is touched 55+psi which is theoretically good for 5500rpms of oil flow/pressure. I get the idea of splash being higher as RPMs/oil flow/pressure is increased but what increase are we really seeing and does it overcome the additional wear of that 250rpms constantly. The 5w20 would actually be better suited in the colder engine temps for startup for splash and piston ring oiling.

I also wonder the validity of the bumping rpm by 250rpms if it really benefits anything. It's only 250rpms and its maybe 10psi of additional oil pressure. I also don't see it being a huge difference in how much oil its flinging up on the cam and lifters. Pump Flow rate increase would be negligible, rpms is minimal and the pressure increase means nothing. I almost wonder if overfilling would provide more splash if it can get above the wind-age tray. I see the potential negatives being efficiency losses and aerating the oil.

FWIW other V8 OHV engine designs are capable of surviving with 5-10psi of oil pressure at idle. I personally didn't realize I had 0-4psi of oil pressure at 2000rpms due to a stuck oil pump bypass valve in a LS swapped C3 vette and drove with it like that for 50 miles and the engine still runs with a new pump. This could be a design flaw with the raised cam design in the Hemi tho.

If splash is the only oiling to the lifters, pressure doesn't matter. You need a faster crank rotation to sling more oil, it's not being pumped.

 

[Wild one]

I don't want to split hairs and not arguing but the fact that my 2018 stock ram has 36-38psi of oil pressure at hot idle proves that there is more than enough "oil flow" at idle. Once the throttle is touched 55+psi which is theoretically good for 5500rpms of oil flow/pressure. I get the idea of splash being higher as RPMs/oil flow/pressure is increased but what increase are we really seeing and does it overcome the additional wear of that 250rpms constantly. The 5w20 would actually be better suited in the colder engine temps for startup for splash and piston ring oiling.

I also wonder the validity of the bumping rpm by 250rpms if it really benefits anything. It's only 250rpms and its maybe 10psi of additional oil pressure. I also don't see it being a huge difference in how much oil its flinging up on the cam and lifters. Pump Flow rate increase would be negligible, rpms is minimal and the pressure increase means nothing. I almost wonder if overfilling would provide more splash if it can get above the wind-age tray. I see the potential negatives being efficiency losses and aerating the oil.

FWIW other V8 OHV engine designs are capable of surviving with 5-10psi of oil pressure at idle. I personally didn't realize I had 0-4psi of oil pressure at 2000rpms due to a stuck oil pump bypass valve in a LS swapped C3 vette and drove with it like that for 50 miles and the engine still runs with a new pump. This could be a design flaw with the raised cam design in the Hemi tho.

I bet you'd be surprised at the differance in oil fling with approximately a 38% to 40% increase in idle rpm (550 to 750 is roughly a 38% increase).Think of a bucket of water you're swinging around your head at arms length at 550 rpm,then think of how much the forces increase when you start spinning that bucket 38 to 40% faster,it's a noticable increase,Same would apply to the oil being flung off the crankshaft,it's going to be flinging that oil alot farther and harder,plus more of it.The differance is roughly about a 5/6 psi differance on the majority of hemis by increasing the idle rpm from 550 to 750

 

[wes8398]

...

I will admit that I overshot the time it takes to reach closed loop while idling by a decent amount in my previous comments.

I did a little experiment the other day. It was only -3*C (26.5*F) out, but it took just a touch under 12 minutes of idling from a cold start to get the coolant to that magic 71*C (160*F) where the ECU should be switching over to closed loop. The trans temperature rose about 3*C during this time, and obviously gear oils, etc were unaffected due to lack of movement.

This morning, it was a balmy 0*C (32*F) outside. I simply started the truck, let the high idle settle, and then put it in gear and began my drive to work. It took just over 4 minutes of steady, easy driving to get the coolant to that same 71*C/open loop temp. My trans temp had also increased to 43*C (109*F), and I'd obviously also got the gear oils, etc warmed up a bit too.

All said and done, I remain steadfast in my argument against "warm-up" idling upon cold starts... no matter how cold. ESPECIALLY with an engine such as ours that evidently lacks oil supply to the cam/rollers at low engine speeds. To argue otherwise is just a willful blindness to the fact that it's wasteful at best and detrimental to engine health at worst.

 

[wes8398]

I also pulled this off of Bobistheoilguy. Blue is what I run (happens to have the highest film strength), yellow and green are what I see the most of on this forum and the results are kind of crazy. I have also runt he amsoil signature and that oil did great in my blackstone lab report after extended use.

This was a film strength test run by 540 RAT over at Speedtalk.com. He used an oil load carrying capacity/film strength” tester to test 44 motor oils. The psi each oil supported was calculated, yielding the value of its load carrying capacity/film strength.All oils were tested at 230 degrees F.I have excerpted below but here is the link to the full write-up: Film Strength Test

I've been referring people to Rat540's blog for so long I can't remember. He has his detractors - to be sure - but I think it's some of the most reliable testing information out there. His blog is the reason I made the move from super expensive, "fancier" engine oils to good ol' Quaker State 5w30 from WalMart.

 

[Wild one]

I will admit that I overshot the time it takes to reach closed loop while idling by a decent amount in my previous comments.

I did a little experiment the other day. It was only -3*C (26.5*F) out, but it took just a touch under 12 minutes of idling from a cold start to get the coolant to that magic 71*C (160*F) where the ECU should be switching over to closed loop. The trans temperature rose about 3*C during this time, and obviously gear oils, etc were unaffected due to lack of movement.

This morning, it was a balmy 0*C (32*F) outside. I simply started the truck, let the high idle settle, and then put it in gear and began my drive to work. It took just over 4 minutes of steady, easy driving to get the coolant to that same 71*C/open loop temp. My trans temp had also increased to 43*C (109*F), and I'd obviously also got the gear oils, etc warmed up a bit too.

All said and done, I remain steadfast in my argument against "warm-up" idling upon cold starts... no matter how cold. ESPECIALLY with an engine such as ours that evidently lacks oil supply to the cam/rollers at low engine speeds. To argue otherwise is just a willful blindness to the fact that it's wasteful at best and detrimental to engine health at worst.

Hell at -3 you don't even need to wait for it to idle down,lol. This morning we're at -36C ambient,with windchill it puts us at -50C,you're not driving it away as soon as it idles down at those temps A bit north of me is seeing -40C+ ambient .With the amount of clothes and gloves you'd need on to drive away at those temps,you're not going to be able to control the vehicle if things get out of control .Being in Southern Ontario,you have no clue what cold is,as -20C isn't cold

 

[Wild one]

I will admit that I overshot the time it takes to reach closed loop while idling by a decent amount in my previous comments.

I did a little experiment the other day. It was only -3*C (26.5*F) out, but it took just a touch under 12 minutes of idling from a cold start to get the coolant to that magic 71*C (160*F) where the ECU should be switching over to closed loop. The trans temperature rose about 3*C during this time, and obviously gear oils, etc were unaffected due to lack of movement.

This morning, it was a balmy 0*C (32*F) outside. I simply started the truck, let the high idle settle, and then put it in gear and began my drive to work. It took just over 4 minutes of steady, easy driving to get the coolant to that same 71*C/open loop temp. My trans temp had also increased to 43*C (109*F), and I'd obviously also got the gear oils, etc warmed up a bit too.

All said and done, I remain steadfast in my argument against "warm-up" idling upon cold starts... no matter how cold. ESPECIALLY with an engine such as ours that evidently lacks oil supply to the cam/rollers at low engine speeds. To argue otherwise is just a willful blindness to the fact that it's wasteful at best and detrimental to engine health at worst.

You're assuming you can drive it easy for about 5 miles,i'm a minute off the freeway,that has a speed limit of 110 clics,so you can do you,and i'll do me,but my vehicles are gonna idle at least 5 to 10 minutes before they hit that freeway and see nutbar traffic and speeds of 110+

 

[wes8398]

You're assuming you can drive it easy for about 5 miles,i'm a minute off the freeway,that has a speed limit of 110 clics,so you can do you,and i'll do me,but my vehicles are gonna idle at least 5 to 10 minutes before they hit that freeway and see nutbar traffic and speeds of 110+

Wait, what?? But that's the perfect situation (getting right onto the highway)! You've got 3 overdrive gears in that kickass ZF8 transmission of yours (if applicable), right? Even with my 3.92's, the engine's sub-2,000 rpm at highway speeds, and workload is very light just cruising. I jump right onto the highway, too... that's why my vehicle warms up so nice 'n quick. But hey, if you're too sensitive to get into a cold vehicle in the morning, then by all means continue to "do you" and tempt fate with those cam lobes/lifters.

Speaking of cam/lifter failure... Since that's what this thread is supposed to be about, I'm going to go back and self-moderate our little tit for tat (if the forum will allow). Apologies to the OP.

 

[Wild one]

Wait, what?? But that's the perfect situation (getting right onto the highway)! You've got 3 overdrive gears in that kickass ZF8 transmission of yours (if applicable), right? Even with my 3.92's, the engine's sub-2,000 rpm at highway speeds, and workload is very light just cruising. I jump right onto the highway, too... that's why my vehicle warms up so nice 'n quick. But hey, if you're too sensitive to get into a cold vehicle in the morning, then by all means continue to "do you" and tempt fate with those cam lobes/lifters.

Speaking of cam/lifter failure... Since that's what this thread is supposed to be about, I'm going to go back and self-moderate our little tit for tat (if the forum will allow). Apologies to the OP.

When i did the cam in my truck,the stock cam and lifters were in perfect shape,and they went into a young single mothers truck that we put onto Redline 5W-30 and RP 20-820 filters,and she's proceeded to put 180,000 clics on my old stock cam and lifters.She has 2 young kids,so she lets the truck idle a fair bit to warm up,as she can't bundle them up and still get them legally into their car seats. So idling them isn't an issue as much as you make it out to be,as long as you use a high quality oil and good filter,and don't run long OCI's.
I know of lots of trucks that have well over 200,000 clics on them,and they've done their fair share of idling in the cold.
A good oil change regime will do more to prolong the life of the lifters then driving it away cold does
Pic of my thermometer this morning with-out windchill,it's still -37C at noon,lol

 

[wes8398]

When i did the cam in my truck,the stock cam and lifters were in perfect shape,and they went into a young single mothers truck that we put onto Redline 5W-30 and RP 20-820 filters,and she's proceeded to put 180,000 clics on my old stock cam and lifters.She has 2 young kids,so she lets the truck idle a fair bit to warm up,as she can't bundle them up and still get them legally into their car seats. So idling them isn't an issue as much as you make it out to be,as long as you use a high quality oil and good filter,and don't run long OCI's.
I know of lots of trucks that have well over 200,000 clics on them,and they've done their fair share of idling in the cold.
A good oil change regime will do more to prolong the life of the lifters then driving it away cold does
Pic of my thermometer this morning with-out windchill,it's still -37C at noon,lol

Fair 'nuff. We shall carry on doing what we do. I don't know why we (people in general) keep trying to change people's minds on the internet, when we know full well that there's not an ice cube's chance in Africa that it's going to work. LOL Unfortunately, the forum doesn't seem to have a "delete" option for my contribution to this silliness.

Curious... do you subscribe to the idle bump-up theory as well? I adjusted mine to +200 revs across the board from the factory tune. Not sure if it's worth the extra fuel burnt, but I don't think it's doing any harm, at least. Truck still drives normally. I actually don't think the +200 revs took for idle in D, as it seems to idle normally at stoplights. But it's definitely closer to 750 after startup.

Also, that thermometer reading is disgusting. Shorts and a hoodie aren't gonna cut it there, that's for sure.