Orange sludge under radiator cap

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Wild one

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I don't know. How would I get the block to drain? Like if I drain the radiator and fill it, drive it around, drain and fill it... etc? Is there something I need to do, turn on, etc?
If you scroll through the photo's of the blocks in these 3 articles,you'll see the block drains Burla is referring to.



 

Dusty

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Well, here it is. So theres clearly some contaminants still in the system, although its far better than it was when I first opened the cap. I have about 100 miles on the truck since the coolant flush and fill. I was told they filled it with Mopar 10 year OAT. if thats true, it went in purple, and what I'm seeing is still orange with some grainy-ness to the liquid under the radiator cap as seen here. I am still waiting on the RMI25 from amazon, about another week out apparently. Is the only way to deal with the residue the RMI25 creates in the overflow tank to buy a shopvac with a skinny hose connector? Is the reservoir something that can be manually pumped out with a little hand pump instead of buying a shop vac, something like this?


View attachment 530384
Hard to tell from the picture, but really stubborn cooling systems benefit from a water/compressed air back flush. Water flow by itself is usually insufficient. The back flush is very important for releasing hard scale deposits. Commercial radiator shops use to have a stabilizer chemical that's added to the system after a backflush, then have the customer return for another flush and coolant refill.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 100474 miles.
 
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Rome X

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I doubt you could drain that, I'm not sure you can even set up a siphon unless it was straw thick. Skip the petcock, just pop one of the small hoses. you want to take a sample from the bottom, really get a good idea of what we are dealing with. dont worry, rmi 25 is the right thing for this, trust it.

Corey brought that up because it is a lot of labor to take off block drain- on drivers side, I might have mentioned it, but no way with a dealer even do this and if they did expect north of 500 bucks.

No more flushing til after the treatment with respect hemi395, just trust the process, rmi 25 next. see what it does, when you run it make sure radiator is filled to top and overflow is full.

What is in it for dealers to do a proper flush? It is a ton of labor, man they just don't do it for chump chnage.
RMI25 arrived today. So the radiator is full (see fluid under the cap) The overflow is on the min side between min and max on the dipstick. So You would recommend dumping as much as can fir into the overflow? Since the radiator is already full? Not sure which hose to disconnect at the bottom to drain some and check the fluid. If you would be so kind is there a photo pointing to which hose to disconnect? I assume if I drain some fluid from whichever bottom hose I am disconnecting that will free up space in the rad to put in more RMI25.

Also, does the heat need to be on like full blast or anything while driving after putting in the RMI25 to make sure it gets everywhere it needs to go inside the system?
 

Burla

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Heat cycles pump fluid back and forth throw overflow tank, but who knows at the rate and time, best practice I would guess is radiator. If you have all the time in the world, you can dump in overflow. How much are you putting in? If it is a small amount, you should put in radiator.
 
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Rome X

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Heat cycles pump fluid back and forth throw overflow tank, but who knows at the rate and time, best practice I would guess is radiator. If you have all the time in the world, you can dump in overflow. How much are you putting in? If it is a small amount, you should put in radiator.
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Think I found the hose, it's labelled RAD. So do you recommend removing the green arrow clamp (hose goes horizontal with the ground forward towards the grill) or the blue arrow clamp (hose is going up towards the roof) in order to drain some fluid to make space for the RMI25 in the rad and to check the color and condition of current coolant?
 

Wild one

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View attachment 530571

Think I found the hose, it's labelled RAD. So do you recommend removing the green arrow clamp (hose goes horizontal with the ground forward towards the grill) or the blue arrow clamp (hose is going up towards the roof) in order to drain some fluid to make space for the RMI25 in the rad and to check the color and condition of current coolant?
I'd use the drain petcock on the rad,you pull that hose,and it'll be instant dump and mess.Take a flash light and look at the bottom side of the radiator and you'll see the drain petcock.

 

NETim

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Resurrecting a semi old thread. My '14 is having no issues at all, cooling system wise. Heat's good, coolant is fresh and looking good.

Would adding 8 oz of Rmi 25 be a good idea anyway given the truck's age?
 

Wild one

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Resurrecting a semi old thread. My '14 is having no issues at all, cooling system wise. Heat's good, coolant is fresh and looking good.

Would adding 8 oz of Rmi 25 be a good idea anyway given the truck's age?
Burla convinced me to try out RMI in my 300c,and i'm amazed at how much crap it loosened up and put in the overflow tank.
After running it for roughly 600 miles,i ended up having to pull the overflow tank,on it,to clean it out,as it was full of slime,and way more casting sand then i expected.
The cars overflow is quite a bit differant then the trucks,and is a real b!atch to get clean,i flushed it out at the local carwash,then spent another hour at the kitchen sink,flushing the casting sand out of all the compartments the cars overflow has. So far i've ran a full bottle of RMI through it,and come next spring,i'll pull the heater hoses and flush the heater core and engine as much as possible,and give it brand new OAT coolant,as the cars 10 years old now,and is due for new anti-freeze. I'm a fan of RMI now,lol Damn Mike keeps costing me money,just razzing ya Mike,lol
 
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