Por-15 "Build" Thread

[Jwithing]

So I noticed my rear axel was getting some rust on it and that's not purdy and it's obvious being lifted. @S0CAL recommended por-15, which looks like great stuff, and he forced me to start a build thread, so here it is....

I've read the instructions and plan on doing full prep. Looking to do the rear axle, rear sway bar, and driveshaft to start. I'm sure I'll find more to do once I crawl under there and inspect.

Getting ready to order the stuff and debating on the color. I'm going to do a top coat as it's recommended for uv protection and extra durability. Their top coats im considering come in gloss black, chassis black (I assume is more matte black), and clear. Truck is brilliant black. Base coats that I'm considering are gloss black, semi gloss black, or silver (would do black top coat but figured this would help to ensure I didn't miss any spots with the topcoat).

Thoughts on color? I'm wondering if gloss black would look awkward. Also a bit concerned if I got with silver base, that if I don't apply the top coat at the appropriate time, it may flake the topcoat leaving silver portions exposed?

I'll take pics and update through the process. Thanks in advance for any opinions or tips!

 

[chrisp2493]

Sounds like a great idea, I’ve heard that stuff is $$$, wondering how much it will be. Mine is pretty ugly as well


I Bleed Ram Trucks

 

[Pull Ya]

My vote would be semi black. If Jack has all this information, I'm assuming that he also volunteered to give you some help in this process---
Jay

 

[Jwithing]

Sounds like a great idea, I’ve heard that stuff is $$$, wondering how much it will be. Mine is pretty ugly as well


I Bleed Ram Trucks

It's not cheap, but I don't consider it ridiculously expensive if it does what it says. I've priced it @ $200 for enough to do way more than I listed and probably enough to do anything else I decide. That's priced off their site and Amazon has better pricing plus free shipping.

 

[S0CAL]

My vote would be semi black. If Jack has all this information, I'm assuming that he also volunteered to give you some help in this process---
Jay

Oh ****, am I traveling to St. Louis?

My recommendation is google POR-15 chassis. There are several great images out there. Personally I would go the equivalent of matte black. It’s not the top coat that concerns me, but the prep work, masking, etc. this is gonna be an awesome build @Jwithing. You will be set for next winter and beyond. This stuff is amazing, or so all the reviews lead us to believe.

 

[Jwithing]

My vote would be semi black. If Jack has all this information, I'm assuming that he also volunteered to give you some help in this process---
Jay

Oh ****, am I traveling to St. Louis?

My recommendation is google POR-15 chassis. There are several great images out there. Personally I would go the equivalent of matte black. It’s not the top coat that concerns me, but the prep work, masking, etc. this is gonna be an awesome build @Jwithing. You will be set for next winter and beyond. This stuff is amazing, or so all the reviews lead us to believe.

Ha, come on up and give me a hand!

I don't think prep is going to be too bad... I plan on brushing it on. Wire wheel rust, spray on the degreaser, rinse, spray on the metal etcher and make sure it soaks for 20 minutes, so that may be tedious and use a lot of solvent on horizontal areas. I wonder if that metal etcher would be caustic for my concrete driveway...

 

[S0CAL]

That is a good point! Protect that driveway. Also, glove up and wear clothes you don’t mind throwing away.

There is a crushed walnut mixture you can get at Harbor Freight and use with an air compressor, less harsh than sandblasting and faster than wirewheel or brush. You can go this route and blaze through it, rinse down your undercarriage and driveway and you are off to the races.

 

[S0CAL]

Here ya go. https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

 

[Jwithing]

That is a good point! Protect that driveway. Also, glove up and wear clothes you don’t mind throwing away.

There is a crushed walnut mixture you can get at Harbor Freight and use with an air compressor, less harsh than sandblasting and faster than wirewheel or brush. You can go this route and blaze through it, rinse down your undercarriage and driveway and you are off to the races.

While blasting it isn't a bad idea, the driveshaft is the only really rusty part and not sure I wanna deal with that mess lol. Plus, believe it or not, with all the tools I own, none are air tools. I always find an excuse to buy tools but always talk myself out of air tools for some reason, so that would be added costs. Ive got tyvek painter suites and a full face respirator.

 

[Jwithing]

I need to clean and organize what I have before I buy more tools lol.

 

[chrisbh17]

There are other alternative products similar to por15.

I used RustBullet on a couple projects and was impressed with the finished product. Bought a gallon of the prep spray, 6 pint size cans of the paint. Prep is the most important of course... While under the truck I can see it being a pita... Making sure to get every little bit right.

I still think oil based undercoat spray is the best alternative. Some of them claim they will get rid of surface rust too.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Jwithing]

There are other alternative products similar to por15.

I used RustBullet on a couple projects and was impressed with the finished product. Bought a gallon of the prep spray, 6 pint size cans of the paint. Prep is the most important of course... While under the truck I can see it being a pita... Making sure to get every little bit right.

I still think oil based undercoat spray is the best alternative. Some of them claim they will get rid of surface rust too.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I did see rust bullet as well in my research, but didn't look into it too much. It seems like one of those things where people love/hate one or the other lol. I'll drive myself crazy trying to pick between the two if I let myself. But I appreciate your insight and recommendation.

 

[blackbetty14]

Don’t read too much into POR15 prep. They will get you with the metal etch and wash etc. I’ve used the stuff for years and we even had a local manufacture a town away.

On my 14 ram I had the truck a few months and the rear already started to show it’s age. I crawled under there with an old van of POR15 and just brushed it on. As long as it’s not oily and it’s not smooth just paint it on. A whole qt will do ALOT. Plus only buy what u need, you can’t really reseal the can that well even with plastic wrap and I always go for the qt and try to use as much as possible. Either way the rear on that truck went 3 years, 3 rough winters and lots of salt and looked fine. My new truck I just shot with some semi black paint and didn’t do the POR15 yet.

Even if you prep your best and do all the stuff they ask it could still peel and when it does peel it comes off in Sheets! Good luck and wear gloves, $hit doesn’t come off clothes or skin for a long time (use brake clean to get off your skin quickly).

 

[S0CAL]

While blasting it isn't a bad idea, the driveshaft is the only really rusty part and not sure I wanna deal with that mess lol. Plus, believe it or not, with all the tools I own, none are air tools. I always find an excuse to buy tools but always talk myself out of air tools for some reason, so that would be added costs. Ive got tyvek painter suites and a full face respirator.

I read somewhere that painting this could be problematic. There is a potential for introducing an imbalance if the painting is not applied uniformly. I know you are not going to finger paint on the surface there, but just something to think about.

 

[MarshRam]

Subscribed. I've been wanting to do this for quite some time. Looking forward to seeing this.

 

[Jwithing]

I read somewhere that painting this could be problematic. There is a potential for introducing an imbalance if the painting is not applied uniformly. I know you are not going to finger paint on the surface there, but just something to think about.

Yup, I did a ton of research on reviews of painting driveshafts. Sounds like it should be fine with 3 coats. Apparently a lot of shops paint them AFTER balancing.

 

[MarshRam]

Yup, I did a ton of research on reviews of painting driveshafts. Sounds like it should be fine with 3 coats. Apparently a lot of shops paint them AFTER balancing.

Yeah, I think prep and application will be important. Another thing that worried me was complaints of it eventually cracking off. But, those guys may have done a sloppy job.

 

[Jwithing]

Yeah, I think prep and application will be important. Another thing that worried me was complaints of it eventually cracking off. But, those guys may have done a sloppy job.

That's what I'm thinking too. I am typically tedious and tend to be a perfectionist, so the only thing that I'm really ''concerned" with is dry time and ensuring the next coat is applied when the previous coat is tacky. I need to check my schedule this weekend and see if I have anything going on. I'm thinking clean and prep in the driveway on a Saturday, pull in the garage & let it dry overnight, then start painting early on Sunday morning.

 

[MarshRam]

I hope it works out. If you get past the potential imbalance issues, it will be a matter of time to see if it holds. Looking forward to seeing how it goes. It's going to look nice under there!

 

[blackbetty14]

Don't worry about the DS imbalance. Your not adding enough paint to really add any weight in 1 specific area to throw it off. All my High HP DS for my racing cars are painted after balance and they get balanced wayyyyy higher RPM wise than stock stuff.

FWIW my new 18 CC with the steel DS had fully rusted within 1 week of having it. I hit it with rustoleum rust converter paint and then a coat of semi/flat hot rod satin black. No issues and looks fine. I find it annoying that my neighbors 3500 has an aluminum DS... Wish the 1500s came with them.

I also never recoat POR15. The first layer with self level and look smooth, if you try to go over it again with a 2nd coat it wont self level and you will get stroke marks (guess how I know). I would just do one good coat. For parts that see the SUN, you need a top coat as POR15 is not UV stable and it will discolor. Not needed under the truck but you could easily paint it an accent color etc.