Rear locker install

[xtreme762]

I bought a Yukon Dura Grip for my 05' that has 3.55 gears in it. I have been seriously considering putting 4.56 gears in it along with the locker.

I've been waiting to install it until I had everything together as far as tools, and parts go. So I tore the rear apart to take a look, and start the install yesterday. But noticed my gear set is pretty wore out. They have 110k of pretty hard use on them.

I want to install my locker but don't want to ruin it if my gears come apart with the added stress of the locker. So I didn't install it.

I did take a BL measurement, and .017" was the largest. The BL should be between .005", and .008" according to the book. So I plan to go ahead, and adjust the BL back to what it should be over the weekend.

My questions for the brains here.

Should I be concerned that the ring may explode, and ruin the locker?
Should I just install, and ride? OR
Should I wait, get the 4.56 gears, and be done with it?

ETA: Surprisingly, there is no noise coming from the rear axle.

 

[homeguy]

I'd wait to get the new gears. If it wearing bad. I've seen those blow up in Jeeps when the diff is locked

 

[JPT]

I had, and installed ARB lockers in my jeep. I also had lunchbox locker pins shear before I went arbs. As above, it is better to wait, lockers put a ton of stress on all components.

 

[xtreme762]

Thanks for the advise fellas.

I'll have to get to work. I've got to change the gears out of the front also. But I'm sure it'll be worth it.

 

[BigDreams]

I am revising what I previously had posted..... if this is your part#, it says there are no case break overs...... so you could run whatever gear ratio on it you want:

http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=9643

 

[JPT]

I'm new to the dodge world. But there are "Thick cut" gears to avoid carrier breaks (the term for when you have to go with a difference carrier when picking ratios). Not sure if they make them for non-Dana axles...

 

[xtreme762]

There's no carrier break with the Chrysler 9.25".

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Just changing the carrier is simple, but I'd wait and install the 4:56 gear all at once and be done with it.

 

[xtreme762]

Yeah, that's what I'm gonna do. I don't know if there's a step by step on this site, or not.

But I may go ahead, and do a complete write up with tons of pics during the install. For those that want to do it. But are either too intimidated, or don't have the money to have it done by a shop.

I've done plenty GM, and Ford. But never a Chrysler so it should be fun.

 

[Ares_288]

Yeah, that's what I'm gonna do. I don't know if there's a step by step on this site, or not.

But I may go ahead, and do a complete write up with tons of pics during the install. For those that want to do it. But are either too intimidated, or don't have the money to have it done by a shop.

I've done plenty GM, and Ford. But never a Chrysler so it should be fun.

Look forward to it.

I agree with the gears first.

 

[JPT]

There's no carrier break with the Chrysler 9.25".

Very nice to know...

 

[BigSloth]

The spec in the service manual for backlash is meant to be for a truck that's either brand new or close to it. At 100k miles, the actual measurements are going to be a little on the loose side. This is somewhat normal in all axles. Re-shimming the stock gears, or changing the pattern at all can grenade a diff faster than anything. At that mileage the gears have worn into each other in a certain way, and changing that can cause issues. Unless you replace the bearings too I wouldn't touch it until you have the 4.56s.

 

[xtreme762]

I'm not gonna touch it at this point. I ordered my 4.56 Motive gears this evening, and I'm not gonna open the axle up before I install them.

I also ordered a crush sleeve eliminator kit for the rear. I'm in the process of finding one for the front.

I'm gonna just overhaul both axles. All bearings, all seals, install the locker, and of course the 4.56's. I figure the truck will be in the garage for a full week. If I had a press, a lift, and some of the other "correct" tools maybe less. Still resourcing.

 

[xtreme762]

Is there a reason why I shouldn't remove the front axle, permanently?

Everything is the same as a RWD truck except the torsion bars, and motor mounts from what myself, and a few buddies can tell.

I have access to a tail shaft, and drive shaft for the 545rfe that i can install in place of the transfer case.

What will stop me from making this truck RWD?

ETA: Unless I'm missing something. The front hub bearings for a RWD, and 4x4 are the same part number. Other than having to adjust the torsion bars to compensate for the weight difference in the front end. Why couldn't this be done?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

subscribed..

 

[JPT]

I am new to CV axles. Something you should make sure. On solid axles, you have to leave the outer shaft in place, as it keeps the hub assembly together. Not sure if the CV axles are a crucial part.

Here is a video... If our CV axles bolt through the hub assembly, you cant do this... Or you would have to take apart your CV shaft and put in the outer to hold it all together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMyTWMnOO0s

 

[xtreme762]

subscribed..

The axle has to come out anyway to install the gears. It would just be way to easy to accidentally leave it out.

 

[xtreme762]

I am new to CV axles. Something you should make sure. On solid axles, you have to leave the outer shaft in place, as it keeps the hub assembly together. Not sure if the CV axles are a crucial part.

Here is a video... If our CV axles bolt through the hub assembly, you cant do this... Or you would have to take apart your CV shaft and put in the outer to hold it all together.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMyTWMnOO0s

On the Gen III, and newer Rams. The hubs are the same exact part on the RWD models as they are for the 4 wheel drive models.

So if there isn't anything in the hub to hold it together in a RWD Ram, then why would there need to be in the 4 wheel drive Ram?

Unless there is something through the center of the RWD front hub. I don't know what would be, and I don't have one to look at. But I stopped at Napa, and verified the two hubs are identical for both RWD, and 4x4.

 

[JPT]

On the Gen III, and newer Rams. The hubs are the same exact part on the RWD models as they are for the 4 wheel drive models.



So if there isn't anything in the hub to hold it together in a RWD Ram, then why would there need to be in the 4 wheel drive Ram?



Unless there is something through the center of the RWD front hub. I don't know what would be, and I don't have one to look at. But I stopped at Napa, and verified the two hubs are identical for both RWD, and 4x4.

What turns the hub on a 4wd then? If they are identical, where does the outer end of the cv shaft go?

 

[xtreme762]

On the 4x4 the half shaft(cv) goes into the hub. The half shaft turns the hub. Nothing goes into the hub on the RWD.

But the hubs are identical. The RWD hub still has the hole in it for the half shaft on a 4x4. But nothing goes into it.

ETA:
O'reilly says they are the same also.

2WD

4WD

I don't know why my links aren't reflecting the two different pages on their site. But if you look them both up they show the same part, and number.