Redline High Performance vs Professional Series

[RamFP620]

So, it's time for me to perform another oil change and I've been using the RL High Performance oil to date. Since my last oil change, the price has jumped to $16 a quart on the high performance. It was around $11 last time. The only thing I can remember from the past is that I switched to RL based on all the discussions regarding the hemi tick caused by the valve lifters. I don't remember why I went the High Performance route.

So, the question is which RL type should be used. Is the Professional Series ok?
Since I do a lot of boat trailering over the summer, is it better to just stick with the high performance or is that over kill?

Thoughts?

 

[danielmid]

@Burla have fun

 

[Jeepwalker]

If that floats your boat ...go for it. Can't hurt. Cheaper than a rebuilt engine.

Who knows what the secret recipe is. There've been guys who've gotten 300k+ miles out of 5.7's with normal dino oil on this site. ....so who knows??? We've driven a few vehicles over 300k on dino oil (non hemi's ..though).

 

[Burla]

Redline Professional series should never be used, it is way over priced shelf oil they only sell because 66 bought them and they wanted an oem oil. If you don't want to use redline HP, then you can buy any cheap shelf oil and add lubegard biotech for some extra protection, we call that elixir poor mans redline, similar science just a little less of it. Both are esters and oil soluble moly with other goodies see voa for more info you if wish.

 

[Burla]

If you wish to extend your interval to save that way, I have done this myself, get the correct filter (rp 20-820) that can handle a long interval, and half way through the interval add a can of BGMoa, which can be used as a cleaner and tbn extender, IE interval extender. As you use oil it denatures the tbn such as calcium, but it still reads in uoa. So you get both a tbn number and a calcium number. The CA number is generally the same as it was when new, but it is denatured so you see the tbn drop. That is why I prefer to add bgmoa half way in the interval, so acid doesnt denature it in use. When you think what benefits hemi cams, it is a legit strategy imo. What is better for the cam, having a stout oil with additives meant to protect cams, or a cleaner oil w/o additives that protect that cam? You can make an argument either way, but I post it is an option. The new bgmoa has more potential then ever as they use MAG over CA. Get the advanced formula if you want this benefit.

 

[ramffml]

If you don't want to pay for RL, you could also run HPL oil, their cheapest PCMO is just under $12/quart and is an exceptional oil. No guarantees on whether it quiets lifter tick if yours is a ticker, but you can be quite confident in running it otherwise. Exceptional cleaning ability, loaded with excellent AW and far more moly than RL or LG. IMHO I'd run HPL before generic other brand + LG.

You can use BITOG15 for a 15 percent savings on that price as well.

 

[Burla]

HPL is a very good choice as well.

 

[Wild one]

If you don't want to pay for RL, you could also run HPL oil, their cheapest PCMO is just under $12/quart and is an exceptional oil. No guarantees on whether it quiets lifter tick if yours is a ticker, but you can be quite confident in running it otherwise. Exceptional cleaning ability, loaded with excellent AW and far more moly than RL or LG. IMHO I'd run HPL before generic other brand + LG.

You can use BITOG15 for a 15 percent savings on that price as well.

Where are you getting HPL in Canada,i haven't seen it on any shelfs,but then again,i haven't really been looking for it either. Blind in 1 eye and can't see out the other syndrome,so unless it kicks me in the face,odds are i'll miss it

 

[ramffml]

Where are you getting HPL in Canada,i haven't seen it on any shelfs,but then again,i haven't really been looking for it either. Blind in 1 eye and can't see out the other syndrome,so unless it kicks me in the face,odds are i'll miss it

I get it shipped:

Automotive Lubricants

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

www.advlubrication.com

It's not cheap if you live in Canada, for the OP in the States I'm not sure if there is free shipping or not.

I buy the 12 quarts at a time, ships in 1 box and is enough for 1 and 1/3 changes or so.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I get it shipped:

Automotive Lubricants

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

www.advlubrication.com

It's not cheap if you live in Canada, for the OP in the States I'm not sure if there is free shipping or not.

I buy the 12 quarts at a time, ships in 1 box and is enough for 1 and 1/3 changes or so.

Us Canucks get the pole when it comes to purchasing quality products, especially for our vehicles.

I paid over $1,500 CDN for 12 x jugs of RL HP 5W30 oil and 12 x RP 20-820 oil filters delivered to my door in Ontario from Summit.

Caveat: I'm still working on obtaining discounts from RL.... that has not fallen off my radar for the Ram Forum Family

 

[crash68]

wowsers, 7 quarts of oil at $11 a pop and people say diesel maintenance is expensive. It's less to buy 3 gallons of full synthetic 5W-40 which is more than enough for a Cummins or EcoDiesel 10K mile oil change.

 

[ramffml]

wowsers, 7 quarts of oil at $11 a pop and people say diesel maintenance is expensive. It's less to buy 3 gallons of full synthetic 5W-40 which is more than enough for a Cummins or EcoDiesel 10K mile oil change.

You're comparing the most expensive oil we can find for the hemi vs cheap stuff you're putting in the diesel.

HPL also sells a high quality diesel oil, and it's priced similarly to their PCMO and you need more quarts for a diesel.

The upside is, apparently HPL is so loaded with AW additives that it can go far longer than standard walmart oil so if you're a gambling man, you can actually bring your costs down with HPL by stretching out your interval. There are multiple guys on bitog making that claim, not just cars/trucks but heavy duty machinery (diesel cat engines) running that stuff.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I push 8,000km's only using the RL HP 5W30 and RP 20-820.....
I can't afford a new engine or new truck... as much as it costs me per oil & filer change....it's still cheaper than the alternative

 

[crash68]

You're comparing the most expensive oil we can find for the hemi vs cheap stuff you're putting in the diesel.

No that's for just all the big name brand oils not the cheap no-brand stuff.

apparently HPL is so loaded with AW additives that it can go far longer than standard walmart oil so if you're a gambling man,

It's sounds good but not many on this forum even consider going even a mile over 5K mile in fear their engine will fail.

 

[ramffml]

No that's for just all the big name brand oils not the cheap no-brand stuff.

You're not comparing expensive gas oil vs expensive diesel oil, which is the point.

The oil changes for diesels are more expensive mainly due to the amount of quarts used, you can find similarly priced gas/diesel oil if you compare similar quality oil for both.

It's sounds good but not many on this forum even consider going even a mile over 5K mile in fear their engine will fail.

If I was running your ED I wouldn't be doing >5k intervals either. Those main bearings are a weak spot and need clean oil.

 

[06 Dodge]

When I compare Amsoil 5w40 synthetic at current price of $29 gallon time's 3 gallons of oil for the 6.7L diesel comes to only $87 and its good for 15K, but will use 10K for comparison with two Hemi 5K OCI at $11 qt for RL, times 7 qt's time's two OCI is $144 to my $87 a $57 savings, but when you go the full 15K OCI the saving would cover the price of both of my fuel filters at $119...

 

[Ratman6161]

Ok, here is an idea I know will be unpopular. I just take mine to my local dealer who is less than a mile from my home. In July. They charged me $102.60 total, including tax. Sounds like a lot. But reading what some of you are paying for oil, not to mention filter and tax, it sounds like you are paying almost as much or more to do it yourself. The other advatages are that it's way easier, no dirty oil for me to dispose of, and they can ever claim I didn't do required maintenance. I know a lot of you don't trust your dealers but if it's really so bad you can't trust them with an oil change, then you need a different dealer and if there isn't one, switch to a different brand. Also, even after retiring, there isn't time in my life for crawling under my truck

I usually get it changed when the oil life drops below 20%. For me that was 6,200 miles as of late July. Of course around 5000 miles of that was towing a 7600# travel trailer. I really don't believe that there is any magical oil that will make any difference as long as you are using a quality synthetic that meets manufactures specs

 

[ramffml]

Ok, here is an idea I know will be unpopular. I just take mine to my local dealer who is less than a mile from my home. In July. They charged me $102.60 total, including tax. Sounds like a lot. But reading what some of you are paying for oil, not to mention filter and tax, it sounds like you are paying almost as much or more to do it yourself. The other advatages are that it's way easier, no dirty oil for me to dispose of, and they can ever claim I didn't do required maintenance. I know a lot of you don't trust your dealers but if it's really so bad you can't trust them with an oil change, then you need a different dealer and if there isn't one, switch to a different brand. Also, even after retiring, there isn't time in my life for crawling under my truck

I usually get it changed when the oil life drops below 20%. For me that was 6,200 miles as of late July. Of course around 5000 miles of that was towing a 7600# travel trailer. I really don't believe that there is any magical oil that will make any difference as long as you are using a quality synthetic that meets manufactures specs

I put $150 of gas in my truck every 2 to 3 weeks, an oil change is a rounding error. For many of us it's not the cost, it's A) we get to choose a better quality oil, and B) we can ensure the change is done correctly.

I'll pay way more than $100 for that, bonus points for getting to avoid the dealer altogether. Win win.

As for "all oil is the same", that's incorrect. Perhaps when you stay within a certain certification you can find oils that are mostly similar, but once you go outside the box you find verbiage like "meets or exceeds" and that's where the real oils are. Redline and HPL are 2 prime candidates, HPL being the new darling of BITOG and it is exceptional oil where it's designed by "what works best" and not designed to fit at a price point.

 

[Burla]

Ok, here is an idea I know will be unpopular. I just take mine to my local dealer who is less than a mile from my home. In July. They charged me $102.60 total, including tax. Sounds like a lot. But reading what some of you are paying for oil, not to mention filter and tax, it sounds like you are paying almost as much or more to do it yourself. The other advatages are that it's way easier, no dirty oil for me to dispose of, and they can ever claim I didn't do required maintenance. I know a lot of you don't trust your dealers but if it's really so bad you can't trust them with an oil change, then you need a different dealer and if there isn't one, switch to a different brand. Also, even after retiring, there isn't time in my life for crawling under my truck

I usually get it changed when the oil life drops below 20%. For me that was 6,200 miles as of late July. Of course around 5000 miles of that was towing a 7600# travel trailer. I really don't believe that there is any magical oil that will make any difference as long as you are using a quality synthetic that meets manufactures specs

There is a group of us that actually don't mind doing our own stuff as much as possible. If you see what 100's of ram forum members have reported and we went to the trouble to record them bad and good, you might rethink your position. It is science not hype, not snake oil, yes your api ra p ed modern oils of their protection in the name of climate change social justice. Go figure when you add the protection back in the oil in the name of protection, it has an 80% success rate against hemi's that are ALREADY ticking. just say'n

 

[RamFP620]

Thanks for all the discussions. I didn't even know about HPL until this post. After pricing out HPL and AMSOIL, there really wasn't a significant price difference to make me switch so I just needed to face reality and pay the $$.
I'm a little **** and maybe I'm worrying too much for nothing, but outside of my boat towing adventures, I consider my truck a hybrid emergency vehicle because of all the idling I do when on calls....a little hint....my handle "RamFP620"....FP = Fire Police.