Redline Oil

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Ramnewbie

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That is the one however most of us using redline are using 5/30. The 5/20 is recommended by redline for the ms6395 standard and not a bad choice at all, just most of us opt for the 5/30. If you haven't ordered yet get in contact with nick@gotehaust, he's a forum sponsor and will get you a good deal, many supporters here.

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MikeG71

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Will do. Thank you Sir
 

SYKRAMMAN

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JimGregory

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Hey just a heads up, go read what happened to me on the synthetic oil thread when I switch to redline. Post 24366
I could not find the outcome of that issue. Care to share?
 

SYKRAMMAN

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I could not find the outcome of that issue. Care to share?
No outcome yet, giving the redline a chance to do its thing. I was told that it usually take 750+ miles for the redline to “set in” if you will. I’m at about 600 now, still have a little rattling going on but seems to be getting better, I sure hope so anyway. If after 1000 or so miles it’s still noisy, I’ll slowly raise the weight till I find the sweet spot.
 

Ramnewbie

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@skyramman has a high mileage engine, I'm assuming that OP' s engine is low mileage since he said he was coming up on first oil change. My engine had 10k on it when I went to redline, imediately quieted down. High mileage engines seem to take more time in some if not most cases.

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MikeG71

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@skyramman has a high mileage engine, I'm assuming that OP' s engine is low mileage since he said he was coming up on first oil change. My engine had 10k on it when I went to redline, imediately quieted down. High mileage engines seem to take more time in some if not most cases.

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@Ramnewbie mine is at 88K + it's my first oil change since I bought the truck.
 

Ramnewbie

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Oh, ok, my mistake. Anyways higher mileage engines usually take 700/1000 miles to fully realize the benefits. Has to do with cleaning before the moly actually starts to bond. Like I said my engine only had 10k on it and I noticed a big difference immediately, and then got better from there. Give it some time and I'm pretty sure you'll be pleased.

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MikeG71

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Oh, ok, my mistake. Anyways higher mileage engines usually take 700/1000 miles to fully realize the benefits. Has to do with cleaning before the moly actually starts to bond. Like I said my engine only had 10k on it and I noticed a big difference immediately, and then got better from there. Give it some time and I'm pretty sure you'll be pleased.

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No no worries Sir!! Just that my rig is super low for being 12 - 13 yrs old (IMOP). Sorry if I came across negative, I wasn't meaning to. Hopefully my engine isn't too dirty inside, and maybe I'll see the benefits a tad sooner. Wishful thinking right.?. LOL! After reading the multiple post on here about Redline and seeing all the positive post/ results I am looking forward to trying it out. I've also talked to Nick, thanks for sending me his way.
 

Theo2019

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Are all of you who are using RL still under warranty? From what I've read in past threads, RL does not meet the manual standards (even if it may be a better oil all together).

I'm using PP, thinking of going to PUP next, but as much as I want to switch to RL it seems like an easy way for your warranty to be denied by not using "proper" oil. Why chance it? I'd hate to switch to RL, blow a lifter or cam and then have the dealer look at my DIY oil change receipts and say I breached my extended warranty by using improper oil.

I recently chatted with my local hellcat club, and several of those guys either experienced or knew of other hellcat owners breaching their warranties for installing a catch-can so there's nothing that seems out of the question anymore.
 

tidefan1967

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Are all of you who are using RL still under warranty? From what I've read in past threads, RL does not meet the manual standards (even if it may be a better oil all together).

I'm using PP, thinking of going to PUP next, but as much as I want to switch to RL it seems like an easy way for your warranty to be denied by not using "proper" oil. Why chance it? I'd hate to switch to RL, blow a lifter or cam and then have the dealer look at my DIY oil change receipts and say I breached my extended warranty by using improper oil.

I recently chatted with my local hellcat club, and several of those guys either experienced or knew of other hellcat owners breaching their warranties for installing a catch-can so there's nothing that seems out of the question anymore.
Yup I have 18K on my 2017 and have been running the Redline 5W30 for the last 4K+ miles. Well worth the risk IMHO. I have a **** ton of PUP 5W20 that I put in the old lady's Explorer with receipts and that's what I write down in my RAM's oil change log. If I have a problem I have the receipts to back it up. I ran that same PUP 5W20 in my previous RAM and had to replace the cam and lifters at 32K miles so I have no confidence in it as far as the HEMI goes but it seems fine for Fords NA 3.5.
 

Fitz-0518

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Chris, consider your mileage. As stated above, selecting the best viscosity RL makes a difference in the out come. My 03 5.7 1500 with 230k found RL 5-30 a bit to thin. changed to RL 10-40 and engine is super quite and smooth. RL does not sell their 10-40 as a HM formula, but that is what worked best in my truck. BTW Redline "blue label" is what the oil masters recommend. That can be in a white qt or red gallon container.
 

Burla

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The reason it can take 500 to 1,000 miles it is takes time, heat and pressure for moly to plate, read on it. Note, it doesn't just take pressure and heat but also TIME. It is weird sometimes guys will lesser ticks take longer then guys with banging ticks. I had a banging tick and it was gone in 500 miles, and another guy with a lesser tick took 1700. You are doing the best thing you can for the tick lubrication wise, if it doesn't work there is no up, no oil built better for this specific event. Maybe a higher viscosity would help, but this oil is heavy dense pao ester base oils with high additives. It meets and exceeds ms6395 and says so.
 

Ramnewbie

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5/20 redline is the one that's recommended for ms6395, not the 5/30. Not saying at all that the 5/30 wouldn't pass the test, just that by redlines website the 5/20 is recommended for ms6395. It only matters if you're hung up on running a ms6395 oil. JMO.

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LoneWolf3574

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Are all of you who are using RL still under warranty? From what I've read in past threads, RL does not meet the manual standards (even if it may be a better oil all together).

I'm using PP, thinking of going to PUP next, but as much as I want to switch to RL it seems like an easy way for your warranty to be denied by not using "proper" oil. Why chance it? I'd hate to switch to RL, blow a lifter or cam and then have the dealer look at my DIY oil change receipts and say I breached my extended warranty by using improper oil.

I recently chatted with my local hellcat club, and several of those guys either experienced or knew of other hellcat owners breaching their warranties for installing a catch-can so there's nothing that seems out of the question anymore.

Unless modifications can be directly linked to a failure, warranties can not be denied under the Magnuson-Moss Act of 1975. Most warranty denials are a scam by the manufacturer and dealership to get out of fixing a defect that was present and I sincerely doubt a catch-can is going to cause any issue whatsoever. Warranty work is money lost by both as the work is done at an agreed upon lower rate than if the dealership were to do the work directly for you.

As far as the OP goes, awesome choice, I'm an Amsoil fan myself but I've have yet to hear anything bad about RedLine other than cost. Sticking with the manufacturers recommended viscosity has more to do with the tolerances in the engine as a heavier oil may not get to every point requiring lubrication. If you're comfortable going with 5W30, go for it.
 

Theo2019

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Unless modifications can be directly linked to a failure, warranties can not be denied under the Magnuson-Moss Act of 1975. Most warranty denials are a scam by the manufacturer and dealership to get out of fixing a defect that was present and I sincerely doubt a catch-can is going to cause any issue whatsoever. Warranty work is money lost by both as the work is done at an agreed upon lower rate than if the dealership were to do the work directly for you.


I'm still not sold on this argument (that I keep hearing). The Moss Act does not protect against using improper fluids or fluids that do not meet manufacturer's spec. The owner's manual is notice whether you read it or not. So when you use an oil that does not meet the manufacturer-approved oil requirement you are willfully violating the owner's manual.

The burden of proof is of course on the dealer to show that the oil caused the issue, but the dealer gets to start their case with a freebie piece of evidence that you disregarded the oil requirements laid out in the manual.
 
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