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Did you splice the speaker wires or was it like that when you opened it up. If someone had an amp in there and pulled it before selling or trading you may find spliced wires behind the radio and something may be loose, dosen't explain DC voltage to ground though. I'm not a solid state amp tech but I'm not sure you should see any DC on the output unless output transistors are shorted. You may be looking for a new radio or a good tech to fix that one. A test light doesn't care if it sees ac or dc unless it is an LED so if it's a plain bulb it would be normal to dance to the music.
Basically. Its not like an old style system where you can have power on when you add a speaker. (Not just turn on the power...but when power is already on too). You have to have the key off and radio powered down for a few minutes so its back at the default screen where it says "accept" in the case of my RA3 radio. It takes a few minutes. When I changed my speakers out i tried turning the key off removing it then putting in and turning on again probably within 1 minute. Wasnt powered down yet.When I was installing aftermarket speakers I did the mistake trying to turn on the radio when the speakers were disconnected.
sort of acts like a computer when you turn something on and it's disconnected it won't recognize it and won't use it.
I think I had to do some kind of radio reset or disconnect the battery to get the speakers to come back on
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Thats because the test light doesn't care about what kind of voltage is present. DC current on a speaker would cause the cone to only move one way, they dont work like that, never have. If you don't believe me hook a 9V battery to a speaker, the cone will move in OR out and stay there until you unhook the battery. If you reverse the polarity it will go the opposite direction. You can almost always measure some level of DC on speaker lines, the type if instrument you use for measurement has an impact on what you see. The proper way to see audio signals to a speaker is an oscilloscope. Cheap multimeters and test lights only tell you some form of something is there.Strange , I’ve always been able to run a test light to ground and probe the positive output and get the light to blink with the output frequency levels of the audio. And none of the systems I have worked on have been 6v output in both negative and positive let alone without any fluctuation in voltage. I’ve installed a few dozen radios in my time and never had issues like this or had these kinds of issues with trouble shooting. It’s a basic system in a regular cab and I am not finding any amps anywhere.
These trucks use load sensing radio, it needs to see the speaker ohm load on the channel in order to activate that channel. If the radio is on, but no speaker connected, it you try to test it by disconnecting the speaker and hooking your meter, you will get a false/ no reading. The head unit shuts down the channel to protect itself.
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Correct, the dash speaker was connected and it appears to be in parallel with the door speakers (same color coding). All I know is that it wouldn’t work .... and that if I piggy backed the front right harness off of the front left harness.... the front right side would play just fine off of that channel. Which lead time to the conclusion that the right front channel on the head unit must not be working I just reread your first post and you said the dash speaker appeared to be factory and connected. If so and its not blown then that channel has not been operating with out a load. Front dash and door speakers are wired together in parallel to the same channel unless I'm mistaken.
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