So For All Canadian Owners, and Maybe U.S. Too

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Dean2

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I just bought some MOPAR OAT coolant concentrate for the 2021 Ram 2500. Part number 68163848AB. Amazon wants $37 a jug for 50/50 and $75 for concentrate, the dealer quoted me over the phone $60 for concentrate or $54.32 for 50/50 pre-mix. However by ordering it online through Mopar Canada https://store.mopar.ca/ and paying for it online, I can pick it up at EXACTLY the same dealer for $30.26. All prices do not include GST.

I found this exact same pattern when I bought air and cabin filters for my wife's Grand Cherokee through this website. The OEM filters were actually cheaper than buying Fram or other after market stuff on Amazon or at Walfart, CT etc. and less than half of buying direct through the dealer.
 
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Wild one

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I just bought some MOPAR OAT coolant concentrate for the 2021 Ram 2500. Part number 68163848AB. Amazon wants $54 a jug, the dealer quoted me over the phone $60 for concentrate or $54.32 for 50/50 pre-mix. However by ordering it online through Mopar Canada https://store.mopar.ca/ and paying for it online, I can pick it up at EXACTLY the same dealer for $30.26. All prices do not include GST.

I found this exact same pattern when I bought air and cabin filters for my wife's Grand Cherokee through this website. The OEM filters were actually cheaper than buying Fram or other after market stuff on Amazon or at Walfart, CT etc. and less than half of buying direct through the dealer.
My local dealer will usually price match Mopar Canada,they know i'll whine if they don't,lol
 
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Dean2

Dean2

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My local dealer will usually price match Mopar Canada,they know i'll whine if they don't,lol
Funny part is Londonderry Chrysler in Edmonton is where I pick this up, they won't match Mopar Canada even though I am getting it out of their stock and I presume they must be paying Mopar.ca a percentage or commission. Kind of like the stupidity that has developed in the restaurant business, they will pay Skip, Uber Eats etc. 40% of the order but won't give me a 10-20% discount to pick it up myself.
 
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Tulecreeper

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My Owners Manual simply says, "We recommend using Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile (240,000 km) Formula OAT (Organic Additive
Technology).

To me that translates to, "Mopar is recommended, but any Formula OAT anti-freeze is acceptable." Most of which are 10 Year/150,000 Mile or more anyway. There is no stock number or MS number in the manual, so as long as it is OAT and not HOAT coolant (which will cause problems if mixed, I'm told) all should be good.
 
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Wild one

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My Owners Manual simply says, "We recommend using Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile (240,000 km) Formula OAT (Organic Additive
Technology).

To me that translates to, "Mopar is recommended, but any Formula OAT anti-freeze is acceptable." Most of which are 10 Year/150,000 Mile or more anyway.
It's expensive to find out it's not compatiable though. You change the coolant maybe once in the lifetime of the vehicle,why take the chance it's not compatiable to save a couple bucks.Just my 02.
Most guys don't get all the old coolant out when they change it,as the block plug on the drivers side is a b!atch to get at,so why risk mixing a non-compatiable coolant because your cheap and squeak when you walk :Big Laugh:
 

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Forgive me, I only read the OP.

So, I go to my dealer to pick up a genuine Mopar air filter, seems
to be about the only way to get one, at least one that isn't counterfeit. I had a receipt from this dealer's shop where I was
charged $32 for it.
Too spendy if all other things being equal, but my options were limited locally.

Anyway, I go inside, get lost and all turned around and mistakenly find myself in front of the parts counter where I'm told an air filter for my 1500 Hemi is $70! (now you can see why I thought I was lost).

So... what is a "good" air filter, and where do I get one? Even Rock Auto has it for over $40 last I checked.
Is this the cost? Do we need an air filter thread to go along with out oil filter and synthetic oil threads?

Serious question. My last oil analysis showed a HIGH concentration of silica and I'm looking at the cheap $15 air filter I got on sale as being a strong possibility. The Mopar looked and fit noticeably better and is what's in my truck right now.

*Not coolant related, but more dealer/price/genuine related.
 

Tulecreeper

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It's expensive to find out it's not compatiable though. You change the coolant maybe once in the lifetime of the vehicle,why take the chance it's not compatiable to save a couple bucks.Just my 02.
Most guys don't get all the old coolant out when they change it,as the block plug on the drivers side is a b!atch to get at,so why risk mixing a non-compatiable coolant because your cheap and squeak when you walk :Big Laugh:
Personally, I already bought a couple gallons of the Mopar OAT and carry one behind my seat. I was just commenting that my manual doesn't specify anything other than "Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile (240,000 km) Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology)."

Just like it also doesn't specify a particular brand of oil. Simply "API Certified SAE 0W-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer
Material Standard MS-A0921.; Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil can be used but must have the API Donut trademark."

Which translates to, "Any Full Synthetic 0W-40 oil with the API Donut on the back." There are several of those out there. Although with the oil, all of them are about the same price so you're not saving anything by using one over the other.
 

RamDiver

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Forgive me, I only read the OP.

So, I go to my dealer to pick up a genuine Mopar air filter, seems
to be about the only way to get one, at least one that isn't counterfeit. I had a receipt from this dealer's shop where I was
charged $32 for it.
Too spendy if all other things being equal, but my options were limited locally.

Anyway, I go inside, get lost and all turned around and mistakenly find myself in front of the parts counter where I'm told an air filter for my 1500 Hemi is $70! (now you can see why I thought I was lost).

So... what is a "good" air filter, and where do I get one? Even Rock Auto has it for over $40 last I checked.
Is this the cost? Do we need an air filter thread to go along with out oil filter and synthetic oil threads?

Serious question. My last oil analysis showed a HIGH concentration of silica and I'm looking at the cheap $15 air filter I got on sale as being a strong possibility. The Mopar looked and fit noticeably better and is what's in my truck right now.

*Not coolant related, but more dealer/price/genuine related.

I've always carefully cleaned most cabin air filters for vehicles with a shop vac and they usually last for many years before requiring a replacement. :cool:

.
 

Tulecreeper

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I've always carefully cleaned most cabin air filters for vehicles with a shop vac and they usually last for many years before requiring a replacement. :cool:

.
The same with my cold air return filter in the house. I buy the good ones and change them every 2 months, but a good vacuuming will get me at least one more month depending on the time of year.
 
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Curmudgeon

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I've always carefully cleaned most cabin air filters for vehicles with a shop vac and they usually last for many years before requiring a replacement. :cool:

.

Unfortunately my truck doesn't have a cabin air filter. I may get around to doing the mod but I haven't yet. My Magic 8 ball says "all signs point to no".

My '06 Tacoma had one and I could easily find a 3pack for under $20 shipped. I could replace them in a fraction of time it would take to vacuum one, and when replaced, the air coming out of my vents no longer smelled like my feet. :oops:
 

Tulecreeper

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Unfortunately my truck doesn't have a cabin air filter. I may get around to doing the mod but I haven't yet. My Magic 8 ball says "all signs point to no".

My '06 Tacoma had one and I could easily find a 3pack for under $20 shipped. I could replace them in a fraction of time it would take to vacuum one, and when replaced, the air coming out of my vents no longer smelled like my feet. :oops:
My 2000 Silverado had them. Are you positive?
 

Wild one

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Personally, I already bought a couple gallons of the Mopar OAT and carry one behind my seat. I was just commenting that my manual doesn't specify anything other than "Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile (240,000 km) Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology)."

Just like it also doesn't specify a particular brand of oil. Simply "API Certified SAE 0W-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer
Material Standard MS-A0921.; Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil can be used but must have the API Donut trademark."

Which translates to, "Any Full Synthetic 0W-40 oil with the API Donut on the back." There are several of those out there. Although with the oil, all of them are about the same price so you're not saving anything by using one over the other.
We're talking coolants here,not oil.If you happen to mess up and mix the wrong coolants together,it can get expensive as they can gel.Is it worth the risk of plugging your heater core /rad etc. ,by buying an off brand coolant that claims to be compatiable,but might not be,just to save a few bucks
 

Tulecreeper

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We're talking coolants here,not oil.If you happen to mess up and mix the wrong coolants together,it can get expensive as they can gel.Is it worth the risk of plugging your heater core /rad etc. ,by buying an off brand coolant that claims to be compatiable,but might not be,just to save a few bucks
This is why I specified to make sure it is OAT, and not HOAT, but I get your point.

Looking further into it, I did find that there is a Mopar Part# and an MS#. Part# 68163848AB/MS-90032 and Part# 68163849AB/MS-12106. The MS-90032 is the concentrate, and the MS-12106 is the pre-mixed formula. They are interchangeable.
 

Tulecreeper

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Just to confuse it more, there are two Canadian part numbers for this exact same coolant too.

68175338AC concentrate and 68175339AC premix.
Of course there is, they couldn't just simplify it. This is how arguments between owners get started. :rolleyes:
 

Mopar~Man

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How is the Chrysler OAT coolant different from this:


$32 (CAD) at Parts Source (here in Ontario). That's the concentrated jug. Dillute 50:50 with distilled water to get 2 gallons of coolant.

And here's a rabbit hole for ya - these products always say to cut with de-ionized water (not distilled water). Is distilled water not also de-ionized? I've never gotten a coherent answer, even when I ask on a chemistry board on stack exchange. De-ionized water is expensive compared to distilled water.
 
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Dean2

Dean2

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How is the Chrysler OAT coolant different from this:


$32 (CAD) at Parts Source (here in Ontario). That's the concentrated jug. Dillute 50:50 with distilled water to get 2 gallons of coolant.
The issue is, the Company name is OEM, Canadian Tire sells it too. It is a brand name just like like Prestone or Valvoline. That does NOT make it OEM Mopar coolant, which is what I was after. As always, everyone gets to make their own choices but for the couple of bucks difference I am going to stick to the real Mopar stuff. All the best.

This is from their website.

We're Matchmakers​

All cars are different. The products you use to keep them running should be different, too. Unlike universal automotive fluids which claim to work for all makes and models, OEM is tailor made for your vehicle. OEM fluids ensure you’re using the right formulation to keep you on the road and in service longer, minimizing the risk of costly repairs and breakdowns.
We believe finding the right fluid at the right price for your vehicle should be quick and stress-free. Our unique EasyMatch tool makes selecting automotive fluid easier than ever. In three simple steps, we match you to the vehicle-specific formulation that will keep your car performing at its best. We’re automotive experts dedicated to helping you to make the right choice for your vehicle.
Our master formulators create superior quality fluids specifically designed for your car. Trust the experts at OEM. Discover your match today.


Made By Recochem​


Recochem is an industry expert in automotive fluids. Since 1951, Recochem has been formulating innovative solutions for vehicles, industrial sites and homes around the world. We’ve grown from producing two products to over 200, and from one initial employee to over 600 worldwide. Recochem is a Canadian owned, privately held company with a global reputation for quality products and outstanding customer service. Known for innovation, agility, growth and socially responsible business practices, our reputation has earned us vendor appreciation awards and longstanding relationships with our suppliers around the world.
Recochem’s Consumer, Industrial and Australia Asia-Pacific Divisions are all ISO 9001:2015 certified, assuring our customers receive consistent quality.
We continuously adapt so that our commitment to environmental and health concerns keep us ahead of public expectations.
 
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Tulecreeper

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How is the Chrysler OAT coolant different from this:


$32 (CAD) at Parts Source (here in Ontario). That's the concentrated jug. Dillute 50:50 with distilled water to get 2 gallons of coolant.

And here's a rabbit hole for ya - these products always say to cut with de-ionized water (not distilled water). Is distilled water not also de-ionized? I've never gotten a coherent answer, even when I ask on a chemistry board on stack exchange. De-ionized water is expensive compared to distilled water.
Distilled water is just fine.
 
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