Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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R.L.K.

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Now compare his last uoa versus his first, obviously BOTH redline. More miles this time by a lot, and the wear was 1/3 what it was his first uoa on the page when the motor was well broken in at 40k miles. Mic drop..

Now look at his SECOND uoa, only 1500 miles on that oil why Ronnie? Anyhow, the mic dun blew up. 9k plus miles versus 1500 miles, lower wear- same engine- same oil. can we drop a mic twice?

long term redline use= low hemi wear numbers, to go along with those quiet engines. Last piece of the puzzle, are we lubricating the cams better so they don't fail early. Stay tuned, maybe 5 plus years to we get some idea on that.
The second UOA on that page at 1500 miles was just a mid oci check , the third UOA on the sheet was the same oil as the 2nd UOA ...which imo makes the last UOA on the page even more impressive [emoji1303]

The 2100 mile UOA was a 40wt / 30wt PUP Mixture 50/50 , noticed the viscosity [emoji1303]

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HammerHead

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I can say for a fact that we all are learning together at this point. The value here from now on is simply the experiences of every member who has one. Just when we thought we knew everything, h395 and RLK pull those UOA's that just blew me/us away. Thanks to them for continuing to do many uoa's to get a great information base. They prove the redline wear numbers go way way down with use in the hemi, they are so low they don't even look like hemi's imo. If they didn't invest in that and share it, and I wasn't here to see that, I'd never know that piece of invaluable info. Brand new information, 5w30 redline wear numbers go down with use, proven by dual uoa's with guys redline and other uoa's on the same sheet. You aint gonna get that at BITOG, unless someone poaches them, lol.
I agree, two of the very best UOA I have ever seen. Looking at the mileage, towing and overall use I was literally shocked. 10k miles on one with towing, 6k miles across the country up the Ike and back to base. Not sure what else they could have thrown at the oil.
 

SyN

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Back in the good old days!

C4CDA081-CD69-44B3-90FD-C12726256D61.jpeg
 

SyN

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Funny how now 5w20 is the oil the manufacturers want you to use..lol


As well as certain Fine Folks who overwhelm themselves with what everyone else is using.
And if you aren’t using what they are using (God Forbid) YOU are so wrong & ignorant.

I thank God everday that he didn’t create me to be one of the Sheep.
Thank you Mom & Dad for not raising me to be a Carp as well.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4875162/all/who-runs-a-20wt-here

Grab a cup of coffee & a donut & enjoy! This sausage fest.

I will be honest: my time is to valuable to sit and read $hit like this! I made it through the first 2 pages then hit the X.

Thank You All: For not letting this thread turn into or end up like the disaster I posted above.
 
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Hemi395

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I'll be the first to admit when I first came across this thread I thought to myself "who is this guy pushing Redline?? Has to be snake oil.." and "man these guys running 5w30 are going to blow their Hemi's up." Man I was an oil newb. But at that point I had a loud ticking Hemi and the dealer wasn't helping me at all. So I was willing to try anything.

Then I did my own research and most importantly, tried both Redline and 5w30 myself. That's when I found out that Burla was completely right about Redline and everyone else running 5w30 was completely right as well.

Now I hear other Rams/Chargers/Challengers/300s with Hemi's ticking away and think "man they should try Redline or at the very least a 5w30".

That's mainly why I did all the testing and UOAs. I'm the type of person that needs to see things for myself or at least proof of results and I know most people that are into cars/trucks are like that.
 

Burla

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I was one of the last holdouts for 5w20, lol. I forget who brought us all into 30 weights? Corey, Syn, Ronnie? I can't believe I was that gullible. I do guess I am the first one to have redline kill his tick, certainly in this thread I am, and that was 5w20 because I ran that for 3 years before switching over. Now, here why that is relevant, many "oil guys" at boobs think it is the viscosity that kills the tick because redline 30 weight and up has high viscosity. However, all 5w20's including redline are like nearly all the same.

Example m1 CSt 5w20 8.9
RL CSt 5w20 9.0

Now, go up to 30 weight a full number is the difference and not the tenths. So in theory it is possible the viscosity is the issue at 30 weight, but that wouldn't explain why my hemi that was banging loud tick went away with 5w20. The only thing that might explain that is moly or pao/ester base oil.

To further put a monkey in the wrench, I have a slight tick on 10w30, so how can 10w30 tick when 5w20 and 5w30 can't? Crazy. I will try and capture the tick on video, going back to 5w30 asap. Now, mind you this is a slight tick, nothing like before redline, but clearly 5w30 and 5w20 was butter smooth, so going back.
 

Burla

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I can't get it to cold idle tick, I maybe have to go for a drive later and see if it comes back. Which is another discussion point, cold idle tick versus warm idle tick, to that we can thanks Corey for sure. I just knew my truck was ticking all of the time, so I didn't put much thought into that. Cold idle has high rpm's and thick oil, warm idle has low rpm's and thin oil, and obviously high/low psi follows as well.

Question to Syn, was all of the issues with your wife's car in the coolant res? What principal applies if the bottle is lower the radiator? Was it lower then top of rad? Does siphon principal follow? meaning all of the fluids would constantly be mixing and only the contamination would get stuck in reservoir? I can't figure it out as the overflow cap in ram is lower then top of rad cap. But the coolant reservoir does not level out with radiator cap, in fact the max line on the coolant dip stick is many inches under the radiator cap. Anyone have ideas? If principals of siphon were working, maybe the contamination that rmi25 loosened got captured in the overflow. RMI 25 people never responded to my question.

I just got my wife's cars coolant, so I will do that swap as well. Actually her car is even older and got the rmi25 much earlier then the ram did, and she does not have a radiator cap as you were asking earlier, everything goes into coolant reservoir when refilling, and I believe that is above radiator, I have to look later to verify. She has nearly 4 years with rmi-25 in there I do believe, and she only has a 2 gallon system.
 

iHemiMan

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I looked into the tick I’ve started to develop even while on RL 5-30 and it is persistent and doesn’t go away after a few minutes. And I don’t think it’s the exhaust manifold bolts either. It scares me but I’m not really sure what to do at this point. Wait it out? Maybe. Take it to a mechanic just to take a look at things? Maybe


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R.L.K.

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As well as certain Fine Folks who overwhelm themselves with what everyone else is using.
And if you aren’t using what they are using (God Forbid) YOU are so wrong & ignorant.

I thank God everday that he didn’t create me to be one of the Sheep.
Thank you Mom & Dad for not raising me to be a Carp as well.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4875162/all/who-runs-a-20wt-here

Grab a cup of coffee & a donut & enjoy! This sausage fest.

I will be honest: my time is to valuable to sit and read $hit like this! I made it through the first 2 pages then hit the X.

Thank You All: For not letting this thread turn into or end up like the disaster I posted above.
This thread was a **** show for a while , but the main reason (imho) hasn't posted here in months and this thread has been very good and very informative on many points of interest to include oil since the absence of certain individuals.

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U&A

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Sometimes I wonder if the true hemi tic, like hard core loud a **** hemi tic is piston slap.

I know it’s easy for us to connect it to the valvetrain issues with the cam failures in these trucks. we have also seen cam failures in trucks and the owners have said they have never had the tic. These truck have been know to run forever with piston slap just like trucks can run forever with hemi tic.

I dont know.

Just thinking out loud


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Ramit355

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That graph has to be made for a specific transmission. The ratios in the transmission play a big role to.

For example, I had a 2006 F150. It had the max tow package and heavy duty payload package with the 5.4L, and 4.10 gears. I got really worried after I bought my 2014 Ram because I realized it had 3.21 gears. Well I did some math and the final drive ratio (transmission gear ratio multiplied by rear end ratio) on the F150 was higher than the Ram.

The F150 was something like 11:1 final drive in first gear and my Ram with the 8 speed is somethin like 15:1 in first gear. Learning that made me feel alot better.

I bet 3.92s are nice, but these 8 speeds really dont need such a low ratio in my opinion. Again, I would love to have 3.92s, but the with the 8 speed you dont really need them. In my opinion.


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I have had the 3.92 in last two 8 speeds and it brings up Tow cap. I tow a 8400 lbs camper with ease with 3.92's. ......I get Combo driving with nothing in tow with this new 19 about 20 to 21
mpg so far.....the 2014 done about 19 to 20.
 

Burla

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I looked into the tick I’ve started to develop even while on RL 5-30 and it is persistent and doesn’t go away after a few minutes. And I don’t think it’s the exhaust manifold bolts either. It scares me but I’m not really sure what to do at this point. Wait it out? Maybe. Take it to a mechanic just to take a look at things? Maybe

Can you expand a lot on this, different oils tried and has it ever changed after an oil change at all, or has it always been consistent. How long has redline been in? Filter used?
 

R.L.K.

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I looked into the tick I’ve started to develop even while on RL 5-30 and it is persistent and doesn’t go away after a few minutes. And I don’t think it’s the exhaust manifold bolts either. It scares me but I’m not really sure what to do at this point. Wait it out? Maybe. Take it to a mechanic just to take a look at things? Maybe


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How many miles on the truck , and how many miles on the oil Sir ?

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iHemiMan

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Can you expand a lot on this, different oils tried and has it ever changed after an oil change at all, or has it always been consistent. How long has redline been in? Filter used?

Up until 45k Miles (currently at 51600) just generic express oil changes were used. Mostly 5w20. RL has been in now for almost 7k and I stared really hearing this about 2K miles ago. I’m using the RP 10-820 Filter (larger one). Seriously considering switching those mds lifters and getting it turned off. ****** hate it


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iHemiMan

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Although I don’t know about prior to 28k miles. I got it at 28k miles and have changed the oil 3 times since 2 generic, 1 RL


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Burla

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I would look hard at bolts, if not it is something oil wont likely quiet. If the noise has been consistent through several oil changes, especially after a fresh change, I would bet good money it is exhaust. There is literally no difference in the sound, they both can sound exactly alike. Happens at cold idle and warm idle?
 

iHemiMan

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I would look hard at bolts, if not it is something oil wont likely quiet. If the noise has been consistent through several oil changes, especially after a fresh change, I would bet good money it is exhaust. There is literally no difference in the sound, they both can sound exactly alike. Happens at cold idle and warm idle?

Yes happens at both. I tried to check bolts last night with it running and off and I don’t know what exactly to look for haha. I was considering getting shortys if these header bolts and headers were toast


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Burla

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You already have headers?
 
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