Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

 

[HammerHead]

Redline 0w40 has MS-12633 certification?

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/0W40_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

 

[U&A]

ROTFLMAO!!!!



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[U&A]

Redline 0w40 has MS-12633 certification?

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/0W40_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

Wording is everything. I think redline is just making a suggestion.

Redline says “recommended for”



But look at how mobil one words it.

“ meets or exceeds requirements for”

Not saying M1 is certified for the hemi. Just pointing out the wording.




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[Fitz-0518]

Redline 0w40 has MS-12633 certification?

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/0W40_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

No. Only PUP and Amsoil SS

 

[HammerHead]

Wording is everything. I think redline is just making a suggestion.

Redline says “recommended for”



But look at how mobil one words it.

“ meets or exceeds requirements for”

Not saying M1 is certified for the hemi. Just pointing out the wording.




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This got me thinking so I checked my owners manual; it states:

6.4 Engine: For best performance and Maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute category of SN. The manufacturer recommends the use of Pennzoil Ultra 0w40 or equivalent Mopar engine oil meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-12633 for use in all operating temperatures.
Page#267

5.7 Engines we recommend you use API Certified SAE 5w20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.
Page#266

3.0 Diesel Engine We recommend you use 5w40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.
Page#268.

6.7 Diesel Engines: In ambient temperatures above 0 degrees F, we recommend you use 15w40 engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummings CES 20081 may also be used.
In ambient temperatures below 0 degrees F, we recommend you use 5w40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.
Page#271

Now, if you read all 4 of those you will see the word Required only as it applies to the Diesel Engines for API CJ-4. MS-12633, MS-6395 and MS-10902 is Only Recommend per the owner manual. It does not say you Will or Shall or Required to use an oil meeting the MS certification.
I copied this word for word from the manual.
Thoughts?

 

[Burla]

Is this playing??

 

[Ramnewbie]

Technically speaking, how is the consumer to know that a specific oil is ms certified. Different oil companies use a play on words that they meet, meet or exceed, or recommended for ms xxxxxx. None of they say ms xxxxxx certified.

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[Burla]

Well that was what 10w30 sounded like, and I had a great video of 5w30 already made it butter smooth again but lost it. I will have to do it again tomorrow. That tick was still nothing to the one I had prior to redline, but my truck didn't like 10w30 redline. And clearly as Corey knows as well, if you use a different oil you can get the tick back, even other redlines.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Well that was what 10w30 sounded like, and I had a great video of 5w30 already made it butter smooth again but lost it. I will have to do it again tomorrow. That tick was still nothing to the one I had prior to redline, but my truck didn't like 10w30 redline. And clearly as Corey knows as well, if you use a different oil you can get the tick back, even other redlines.

Sounds like 5/30 is truly hemi honey. Did you're tic go away allready or is it a wait and see?

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[Burla]

Right away and I had a perfect video on it, and somehow it got cut off.

 

[U&A]

This got me thinking so I checked my owners manual; it states:

6.4 Engine: For best performance and Maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends full synthetic engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute category of SN. The manufacturer recommends the use of Pennzoil Ultra 0w40 or equivalent Mopar engine oil meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-12633 for use in all operating temperatures.
Page#267

5.7 Engines we recommend you use API Certified SAE 5w20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.
Page#266

3.0 Diesel Engine We recommend you use 5w40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.
Page#268.

6.7 Diesel Engines: In ambient temperatures above 0 degrees F, we recommend you use 15w40 engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummings CES 20081 may also be used.
In ambient temperatures below 0 degrees F, we recommend you use 5w40 synthetic engine oil such as Mopar, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.
Page#271

Now, if you read all 4 of those you will see the word Required only as it applies to the Diesel Engines for API CJ-4. MS-12633, MS-6395 and MS-10902 is Only Recommend per the owner manual. It does not say you Will or Shall or Required to use an oil meeting the MS certification.
I copied this word for word from the manual.
Thoughts?

Very good point. Even a inexperienced lawyer could make FCA eat those words.

BUT, the manufacturer could easily say “we will NOT cover the cost of engine failure simply because you did NOT do what we AND your manual “recommend” .

It can be argued by FCA as simply as that.

Don’t let that ******** bother you. If you have records of good maintenance than any lawyer has a very strong case supporting you.

Especially because courts love people vs auto manufacturer case.


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[U&A]

Is this playing??

I ever s slightly here it when you go under the truck. Its kinda hard to find though. But i do hear it.

Is it not consistent? It seemed slightly random/on and off,


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[Burla]

My truck never responded to the 10w30 ever since it was changed, the hot idle tick is like you say hit and miss. I was wondering if I would have to have the moly plate again, but soon as I changed it was butter. Kind of weird? Man I can't believe I lost that other video, it came through really nice the 5w30 redline all you could hear was those injectors firing. I'm sure it will be the same tomorrow, lol. Anyhow, it will be good and representative if my truck will be right back to butter after I take a trip tomorrow. So I have a few qrts 10w30 and I will just toss one in the wife's car ever change, dress up whatever group 3 I will be using.

 

[joshuaeb09]

Just wanted to ask the question what about Warranty on a 6.4 392 Scat that the owners manual called for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum? What if other issues would arise with redline in it?

Where is best place to buy the redline?

I've been running RL 0W40 in my scat for a few thousand mi now (Only has 6.5k on the clock) and even then I noticed a change from the PUP which was always fresh (RL was it's 4th oil change after break in and following the 6 month interval per warranty before I tuned the car). I also noticed that it doesn't get the cold start tick nearly as often sitting in the garage for days at a time as it did with PUP. Though honestly the best redline change in that car is moving the diff from Mopar 75W85 to RL75W110. With the hopnot lockouts, quad shocks, a diff brace, and poly/delrin control arm bushings that diff is noisy as hell on the stock fluid. The diff is alot quieter with RL and lockup characteristics are noticeably better for driving on twisty roads.

 

[tidefan1967]

You want to hear piston slap you should hear my 6.2L it is crazy but I guess it is really normal for 5.3L and 6.2L never noticed it with my Ram and I don’t think it did it.

Its nothing to be concerned about for sure. My old 4.8 Silverado has crossed over 200K miles since the last time I commented on it and its still going strong. It has never had any work done to the engine period (no cams, no lifter and no exh. manifold studs) and went more than half its life on a less than acceptable oil change regimen with every brand of oil you can imagine put in its belly. I love my RAM but damn you got to admire the durability of GM's LS series engines for sure!

 

[Hemi395]

Those GM non AFM 4.8/5.3/6.0 were damn good engines for sure. They had piston slap issues but still easily went 250-300k

 

[KevinInVT]

Those GM non AFM 4.8/5.3/6.0 were damn good engines for sure. They had piston slap issues but still easily went 250-300k

The one thing I didn't like about my 5.3 was the oil consumption. I traded it in for my new Ram and couldn't be happier.

 

[SyN]

I will add: My sons 2014 5.3L w/175K miles uses no oil between his 6K mile OCI.
But he doesn’t use the recommended 20Wt.
He runs PP 10W-30 in the summer & PP 5W-30 in the winter.
Every other summer he chooses to run PP HM 10W-30.

All with a FU or RP filter.
I did stress to him: With this DI motor make sure to run a D1 Gen2 (PP 5W-30) oil most of the time to help some with the valve deposit issue.
The Catch Can is not guaranteed to stop these deposits.

I will say she has a bit of upper valve train noise on the drivers side.
I am tempted to have him run the SRT 0W-40 next summer.
Just to see if the extra load of Moly will help with this.

I personally like this motor! (I grew up with the SB Chevy engine).
Only wish GM engineers produced it with more HP/TQ.

Kole has plans on keeping this truck for many years to come.

 

[Burla]

So is 5w30 Redline Burla Butter or Hemi Honey? So just as last night the 5w30 immediately killed the tick that was there on 10w30. I don't have a scientific theory as to why, baffles me to be honest. Again, the issue with 10w30 was warm idle tick, not cold idle tick. Zero issues now, once again smooth as can be. I won't be straying from 5w30 redline and a RP filter, but I much admit I am a little troubled that the truck is so finicky. Listen for yourselves…


versus…


I'll update Corey's thread as well for people looking for this type of info. Stuff gets lost in this thread.