Synthetic Oil

[AFMoulton]

Thanks guys. I’ll ride this out a while. After church it cranked up and was super quiet. Maybe it was the way it was parked or some other weird reason. I will keep you all posted on how it works out.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper Stt MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

 

[mondo]

Am i reading right? Has Amsoil changed up their formula? I did notice they changed their European a couple years ago. Ive been running the 5w40 European since i had the motor build for the Jeep in 2011. Its what the engine builder recommended. Since then they have the Classic and Improved line of European 5w40. And at one time i think the choices were full saps, medium saps.....It gets kind of annoying everytime i order there is something different.

 

[HammerHead]

Alright guys, on the Durango 5.7, 58* here today, cold start, on the Amsoil SS 5W-30, has a slight 15-20 second tic on start up then back to normal. Durango drove 230 miles yesterday, and was parked for about 14 hours.

23,950 miles, 2236 miles on this OCI. First time I’ve ever heard it. Running the Amsoil EA15K50 (smaller) Filter.

One off issue or maybe watch it? I like Amsoil and it works great in my 6.4 and has worked great in both 5.7s until this morning. I am and have been faithful to them BUT I have ZERO issues dumping it and going to something else i.e. Redline.

I will also eat my words if necessary.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40, Softopper
Black Rhino Armory 18x9 +12mm
Cooper Stt MAXX LT295/70R18

2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

15-20 seconds is excessive in my opinion, start up chatter usually lasts 2-4 seconds in my experience; and is sometimes confused with the Hemi Tick imo. Only time I have engine start up chatter is when my trucks sits for days.
I had a great experience with Amsoil when I was racing my 2013, but I did develop a horrible Hot idle Hemi Tick at 60k hard driven miles. The flip side to that is my oil analysis was perfect despite the tick. Important to note this was the old Amsoil formula.
If I was getting 15-20 seconds of startup chatter I would be shopping for a new oil.

 

[R.L.K.]

Your running the old SS formula now which imo is a great oil . Not sure if it's still available everywhere?
If this continues or gets worse I'd definitely try RL5W-30 and the RP or Amsoil filter .
If you can get Amsoil 5W-30 SS maybe just change the oil early .
I believe the SS had a good amount of moly ?
If you do go with the Redline just remember to give the added Molybdenum & ester/ PAO a good 750+ miles to quiet down that 5.7L
Good luck Sir !

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There's not a lot of SS useres with hemi tick , make sure it's not the manifold bolts [emoji1303]

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[HammerHead]

Am i reading right? Has Amsoil changed up their formula? I did notice they changed their European a couple years ago. Ive been running the 5w40 European since i had the motor build for the Jeep in 2011. Its what the engine builder recommended. Since then they have the Classic and Improved line of European 5w40. And at one time i think the choices were full saps, medium saps.....It gets kind of annoying everytime i order there is something different.

I know for sure they changed their Signature Series formula, I seen some good testing on it but haven't used it. Lately most have said they experience excessive engine noise running it.

 

[Burla]

If I was getting hot idle tick, I would definitely be shopping for a new oil. And as it so happens I have the starts of a hot idle tick on redline 10w30, so I am going back to hemi honey 5w30 redline. There is a scientific reason for this, the base oils are different. The hths on 5w30 is 2 points higher then 10w30, so in layman's terms the 5w30 is thicker then 10w30, crazy but true by a lot. People say hths doesn't matter because it is tested under "hot" conditions. However, when you have a tick you will have a hot spot there, so hths is exactly what you should look at. I will try and capture it on audio if I can, mind you it is much less then before, but being sensitive to it and the knowledge of the cam issues, I'm going to what worked. Now, the 10w30 RLK's favorite has no vii's and if it works for you obviously makes for great hemi uoa's. But if you have a tick, the 5 winter rated redline's are where you should look.

Discussion, which is worse hot idle tick or cold idle tick? I know most engine wear happens at start up, so that would be the easy answer. But if you get hot idle tick that is a real sign your engine is starving for adequate lubrication, where as start up tick you can kind of accept that somewhat. Also, there was that theory about warming up your truck being worse then not warming up your truck, and to be honest I thought it was not true, but now I realize it really is. Syn was right about that 1. Now, most of the world doesn't really know about the hearty moly'd oils ability to address cold idle tick, but as we all know oil choice can make a difference. All you can do is try a couple things, if something works well there you go. If it doesn't work at least you know you tried.

 

[SyN]

Fellas: Go visit & give this young fella some advice!

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4876760#Post4876760

 

[smiley]

Well i know piston slap is definitely a concern when the piston skirts are short, and hemi’s have short piston skirts. So does the 5.3 vortec and the 6.0. They also have a history of piston slap. Supposedly the 6.4 has slightly longer skirts.


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You want to hear piston slap you should hear my 6.2L it is crazy but I guess it is really normal for 5.3L and 6.2L never noticed it with my Ram and I don’t think it did it.

 

[Ramnewbie]

I just read on Flipboard that FCA is looking at developing an inline 6 to replace the penstar. It was stated that they were looking at putting a turbo on the penstar but didn't like the results.

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[Fitz-0518]

SYKRAMMAN, this may be helpful. My 03 5.7 230K miles. Went from years of RP 10-40 synthetic. No engine noise at start up or operating temp. After learning that RP had made some significant formula changes, I tried Amsoil 5-30. That was a mistake. Too thin. Developed valve train noise. Went to RL 5-30 and the rotating part noise was quieter, but still present. Next mistake, drained the RL 5-30 at 500 miles. Learned that RL has a high detergent formula as does Amsoil. Noise was as a result of detergents cleaning 15 years of sludge and that was confirmed by the color of the drain. Did not allow the RL 5-30 enough time to get the benefit of the molly. Put in Amsoil AMO 10-40 high mileage formula. Clearly better cushioning of rotating parts. But going thru the drive thru, I was still getting light lifter tick but no rotating lower engine noise after 800 miles. Now on RL 10-40. Stone cold quite and smooth. RL does not claim that their 10-40 is a high mileage formula. But it worked in mine. Not sharing this because I enjoy embarrassment. Had I asked a few more questions on this forum, my oil testing could have been more effective. Most important lesson learned, don't change what is working.

 

[tjfdesmo]

At the risk of cursing myself(knocks on head), at roughly 1K miles into my Redline 0W40 oci my 6.4 is still the quietest it has ever been. Wish I had made the switch sooner.

 

[Burla]

At the risk of cursing myself(knocks on head), at roughly 1K miles into my Redline 0W40 oci my 6.4 is still the quietest it has ever been. Wish I had made the switch sooner.

most of the time I am all PC with this, but as for you, yeah ya dummy, lol. wth- we were taking for like 2 years?

 

[U&A]

most of the time I am all PC with this, but as for you, yeah ya dummy, lol. wth- we were taking for like 2 years?

*****


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[Burla]

Am i reading right? Has Amsoil changed up their formula? I did notice they changed their European a couple years ago. Ive been running the 5w40 European since i had the motor build for the Jeep in 2011. Its what the engine builder recommended. Since then they have the Classic and Improved line of European 5w40. And at one time i think the choices were full saps, medium saps.....It gets kind of annoying everytime i order there is something different.

So like 40% of engines made or going to be made or something like that are di turbo's. The info is out there readily available if you want. The entire oil industry is headed towards making an oil that meets the spec gf-6. Since the gf-6 can't be made yet, they settle for sn+, which simply has lower calcium levels for di turbo's. Now, Amsoil made SS to be sn, and maybe sn+, I don't know why they aren't sn+, maybe my info is off. Bottom line it isn't just Amsoil, the entire industry is headed this way, in fact m1 did this over 5 years ago. Amsoil's formula is one of the better formulas for di turbo's due to it's high moly content, perhaps even the best I've seen. I have nothing to say past that, I understand what they did and why they did it, following the market.

 

[tjfdesmo]

most of the time I am all PC with this, but as for you, yeah ya dummy, lol. wth- we were taking for like 2 years?

 

[Ramnewbie]

most of the time I am all PC with this, but as for you, yeah ya dummy, lol. wth- we were taking for like 2 years?

Damn, and I thought I was a hard sale. [emoji3]

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[Ramit355]

Just wanted to ask the question what about Warranty on a 6.4 392 Scat that the owners manual called for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum? What if other issues would arise with redline in it?

Where is best place to buy the redline?

 

[Burla]

Nick @ Gotexhaust by far best place to get it. PM him you will see. PUP 0w40 pretty good oil as well. Can't go wrong with either.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

SYKRAMMAN, this may be helpful. My 03 5.7 230K miles. Went from years of RP 10-40 synthetic. No engine noise at start up or operating temp. After learning that RP had made some significant formula changes, I tried Amsoil 5-30. That was a mistake. Too thin. Developed valve train noise. Went to RL 5-30 and the rotating part noise was quieter, but still present. Next mistake, drained the RL 5-30 at 500 miles. Learned that RL has a high detergent formula as does Amsoil. Noise was as a result of detergents cleaning 15 years of sludge and that was confirmed by the color of the drain. Did not allow the RL 5-30 enough time to get the benefit of the molly. Put in Amsoil AMO 10-40 high mileage formula. Clearly better cushioning of rotating parts. But going thru the drive thru, I was still getting light lifter tick but no rotating lower engine noise after 800 miles. Now on RL 10-40. Stone cold quite and smooth. RL does not claim that their 10-40 is a high mileage formula. But it worked in mine. Not sharing this because I enjoy embarrassment. Had I asked a few more questions on this forum, my oil testing could have been more effective. Most important lesson learned, don't change what is working.

Thank for the reassurance, and I bought enough rl 5/30 for three oc’s. Will probably wind up buying and mixing heavier till I find the happy medium like suggested. Of course after I give the 5/30 a chance to do it’s thing.

 

[U&A]

You got your wife to take a video of
You just for this thread?


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