Synthetic Oil

[quickster2]

I've always used Castrol Power1 4T or Power1 V-Twin 4T and their previous iterations for decades with good result. Walmart online typically has the best price.

 

[tjfdesmo]

Red Line is out of their minds (or should I say Phillips / Conoco?) - was looking at some V Twin Motorcycle Oil 20W-50. Best pricing I could see is a little under $20 / quart!

Amsoil around $12 / quart. I guess they're no longer interest in staying in business.

Amsoil MCV works great. The only Red Line an H-D "needs" is Shockproof Gear Oil in the transmission. Amsoil SVG works, but RL was definitely better.

 

[turkeybird56]

@HEMIMANN

O’reillys has Mobil 1 V twin Mc oil 20-50 for $12.99 a quart

 

[turkeybird56]

I run AT 4 Mobil 1 in my Motorcycle due to my all in one oiling. Nothing under 10-40 too hot in summer. But I have to have amount in crankcase exact. Even less than 1/4 qt overfill get blow back from pcv crankcase blow by valve

 

[Burla]

7.49 cents for haagen today, and not for a pint, but like panda express they lowered the container ounces. So when we talk about price increases, lets put the blame where it belongs, because like haagen and panda corporations such as 66 are all raising their prices. The reason it not lack of empathy or desire to stay in business or not, but because the gov't devalued our money by over spending. You can cheap it and buy generic ice cream, but it aint haagen.

 

[marine0311]

I have been using

Motorkote should be banned man, short term smoothness at the price of long term corrosion.

Prolong has the highest chlorinated parrifins and motorkote is second.

The only reason this isnt banned is because of the needs in metal working, the stuff should never be in an engine. Do your research. It is a wax with a chlorine carrier, I have used it myself when it first came out, then I learned about it. It will make an engine run incredibly smooth, but overtime it will corrode metal. The reason it is so popular in metal working is because the metal isnt exposed to it long term like it is with people who put it in oil. It makes two metal surfaces have next to no friction under extremes, but at long term cost to that metal. Moly and perhaps esters is a better long term choice. Thus why people prefer biotech around here.

Motorkote in all my vehicles as well as firearms since the late 80’s with zero issues. What you use is not perfect either. But you ALREADY know that. My Cummins, Cat, as well as Detroit have went 1-1.5 million before overhaul. Which was for my piece of mind. Loads grossing 78,000-79.999 vehicle total weight. Real World testing. A lot of fleet owners have been using Motorkote as well. You have your facts/opinions and I have mine. Best wishes on whatever you use. If you care so much about what I run in my truck, send me a case of your lubricant. I will gladly use it in comparison to my Motorkote. Until that time best wishes to you and your products.

 

[Burla]

I have been using

Motorkote in all my vehicles as well as firearms since the late 80’s with zero issues. What you use is not perfect either. But you ALREADY know that. My Cummins, Cat, as well as Detroit have went 1-1.5 million before overhaul. Which was for my piece of mind. Loads grossing 78,000-79.999 vehicle total weight. Real World testing. A lot of fleet owners have been using Motorkote as well. You have your facts/opinions and I have mine. Best wishes on whatever you use. If you care so much about what I run in my truck, send me a case of your lubricant. I will gladly use it in comparison to my Motorkote. Until that time best wishes to you and your products.

I make zero judgement, just telling you the facts, in the end it is your truck. It is not me that says chlorinated parriffns are corrosive, it is the white paper. Sorry if I came off strong, there has been a movement to ban that for long and it appears I am on board with that per my tone and words. I should have said that different, do your own research. CP's are identified by their chain length, as forever finding branched chain lubricity has been the goal of lubrication, as long as the chain is stable, it works miracles in lubrication. Thus we see a lot of paper on the newer star polymers over older version of viscosity index improvers. When the branch is broken with CP's, the result is acid, it is the enemy of your truck's engine.

It is all about what is the best EP additive with reasonable risks, that is the constant effort in lubrication. CP's and Moly do the same thing, they put a salt plate on metal. Nearly every oil manu uses moly, none us CP, might give a hint to why not?

 

[Burla]

Salt is also known as sodium chloride is also known as NACI, sodium ion is NA chloride ion also chlorine ion is CI. Cp ions are like c10-c30 and depending on which one they are 40 to 70% chloride. All chlorine is the corrosive part of salt. This salt is corrosive, ask anyone who drives on salted roads. Bleach very corrosive, is CI plus O, so CIO plus NA as in salt for complete ion NACIO, chlorine plus oxygen, which obviously is an oxidizer. Oil spinning fast adds o2?

Moly is molybdenum and either 2 or 3 sulfur atoms. Also technically corrosive, but since it is stable, it is not corrosive as proven by every uoa ever done.

 

[JHoward]

I make zero judgement, just telling you the facts, in the end it is your truck. It is not me that says chlorinated parriffns are corrosive, it is the white paper. Sorry if I came off strong, there has been a movement to ban that for long and it appears I am on board with that per my tone and words. I should have said that different, do your own research. CP's are identified by their chain length, as forever finding branched chain lubricity has been the goal of lubrication, as long as the chain is stable, it works miracles in lubrication. Thus we see a lot of paper on the newer star polymers over older version of viscosity index improvers. When the branch is broken with CP's, the result is acid, it is the enemy of your truck's engine.

It is all about what is the best EP additive with reasonable risks, that is the constant effort in lubrication. CP's and Moly do the same thing, they put a salt plate on metal. Nearly every oil manu uses moly, none us CP, might give a hint to why not?

Your post, IMHO, was informative and right to the point.

Prolong/Slick 50/Motorkote,etc. I've read and often wondered about those "oil additives" from twenty years or so ago when they were being promoted to be the best thing for an engine, since the invention of sliced bread, that they caused more for internal engine parts wear than preventing it.

Especially over an period of time, like whatever metal plating(anti wear film)would eventually "flake off" and could cause premature wear?

Idk ...

 

[ramffml]

Your post, IMHO, was informative and right to the point.

Prolong/Slick 50/Motorkote,etc. I've read and often wondered about those "oil additives" from twenty years or so ago when they were being promoted to be the best thing for an engine, since the invention of sliced bread, that they caused more for internal engine parts wear than preventing it.

Especially over an period of time, like whatever metal plating(anti wear film)would eventually "flake off" and could cause premature wear?

Idk ...

One of the videos posted here a while ago was through the HPL factory. and I forget the details but they said changing one of the ingredients in that blend could lead to this oil promoting rust.

Once you find a premium oil, IMHO it's best not to jack with it. If you find yourself looking for additives it might be better to just find a higher quality oil.

HPL and Redline don't need no additives!

 

[TotallyHucked]

Are we all still on board with the PUP/Lubeguard Biotech/RP filter combo? Just picked up the PUP today to do the change, already had the others

 

[JHoward]

Well now, Slick50 isn't "tepflon" based(PTFE, as it is refered to now, because of some type of dispute over the use of the name, "Teflon")anymore and is now Cerflon(ceramic/boron nitride/Teflon) particles?

Still, I wouldn't use it ... I can't get my mind to accept something like Teflon to "plate"without eventually "flaking off" and possibly causing premature wear or, compared to like an worn part? ... molybdenum/zddp for comparison is much more better for a long term use and protection of internal engine parts due it's nature in "plating" to parts, like an high friction "soluble plating bearer" ...

I'm old and tend to overthink things.

 

[JHoward]

One of the videos posted here a while ago was through the HPL factory. and I forget the details but they said changing one of the ingredients in that blend could lead to this oil promoting rust.

Once you find a premium oil, IMHO it's best not to jack with it. If you find yourself looking for additives it might be better to just find a higher quality oil.

HPL and Redline don't need no additives!

Yep!

 

[JHoward]

Are we all still on board with the PUP/Lubeguard Biotech/RP filter combo? Just picked up the PUP today to do the change, already had the others

I currently use Red Line 5w/30 and an RP 20-820 and would not hesitate a minute to use your oil strategy.

 

[marine0311]

Salt is also known as sodium chloride is also known as NACI, sodium ion is NA chloride ion also chlorine ion is CI. Cp ions are like c10-c30 and depending on which one they are 40 to 70% chloride. All chlorine is the corrosive part of salt. This salt is corrosive, ask anyone who drives on salted roads. Bleach very corrosive, is CI plus O, so CIO plus NA as in salt for complete ion NACIO, chlorine plus oxygen, which obviously is an oxidizer. Oil spinning fast adds o2?

Moly is molybdenum and either 2 or 3 sulfur atoms. Also technically corrosive, but since it is stable, it is not corrosive as proven by every uoa ever done.

Thank you for your info Burla. I just know my oil pump in my Dirtymax took a dump outside Indianapolis. I was loaded with two Excursions, was able to drive to my shop in Dayton. Long story short, instead of a engine locked up. Or a $1,000 tow-bill, my buddy still has that truck working it harder than I did. Engine had Motorkote in it. Every manufacture will give facts to prove their product is superior and why. With "facts" to support their agenda. I am glad your product works well for you. mine works well for me. And has for soo many years. The folks here in in my neck of the woods love Motorkote. And swear by it and Duralube.i have done my research over the years. Like 30+ years real world testing. Their are many products out their that one can buy. As I said before Best wishes on what you use.

 

[marine0311]

One of the videos posted here a while ago was through the HPL factory. and I forget the details but they said changing one of the ingredients in that blend could lead to this oil promoting rust.

Once you find a premium oil, IMHO it's best not to jack with it. If you find yourself looking for additives it might be better to just find a higher quality oil.

HPL and Redline don't need no additives!

When the oil pump takes a dump, will HPL and Redline alone allow me to continue on with my journey. Or will my engine lock up? Especially on a Holiday where calling a hook out will cost half the price of a new engine? I already run a premium oil, extra insurance and piece of mind goes along way. I'm glad your products work well for you. The products I use have worked well for me for over 30years.

 

[marine0311]

I currently use Red Line 5w/30 and an RP 20-820 and would not hesitate a minute to use your oil strategy.

I am glad your combination works well for you.

 

[JHoward]

If my HEMI engine oil pump "takes an dump" on my current oil strategy, or any oil strategy, I'm not going to keep rolling it on down the highway to see how far I'll get ... not a good thing to do for an engine with potential cam/lifter failure.

I'd have it towed for repairs and hope for the best.

 

[ramffml]

When the oil pump takes a dump, will HPL and Redline alone allow me to continue on with my journey. Or will my engine lock up? Especially on a Holiday where calling a hook out will cost half the price of a new engine? I already run a premium oil, extra insurance and piece of mind goes along way. I'm glad your products work well for you. The products I use have worked well for me for over 30years.

I have to say this is one of the most bizarre comments I've ever read on this forum.

 

[marine0311]

I have to say this is one of the most bizarre comments I've ever read on this forum.

Finally I did manage to do something different. I am asking when other components fail, like a oil pump. Which means the engine has no oil pressure to speak of, would you be able to continue your journey without catastrophic failure to your engine? I would the same products as you with 1 exception. I would add Motorkote.