Synthetic Oil

[69GWC]

AFM: Glad to see ya back!

Just a suggestion: Nothing More
Run FF to 1K miles
Run next OCI to 3K
Run next OCI to 5K
Run next OCI to 10K

Then follow OLM or follow your own set OCI!
Switching to a synthetic @ the 10K mile mark.

Ha forgive me, but whats

FF
OCI
OLM

 

[Hemi395]

Ha forgive me, but whats

FF
OCI
OLM

Factory Fill
Oil Change Interval
Oil Life Monitor

 

[AFMoulton]

Ha forgive me, but whats



FF

OCI

OLM

FF= Factory Fill
OCI= Oil Change Interval
OLM = Oil Life Monitor


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[AFMoulton]

AFM: Glad to see ya back!

Just a suggestion: Nothing More
Run FF to 1K miles
Run next OCI to 3K
Run next OCI to 5K
Run next OCI to 10K

Then follow OLM or follow your own set OCI!
Switching to a synthetic @ the 10K mile mark.

And you are saying to run PYB till 10k?

Thanks SyN! Not back completely, been lurking though. Flight training is a *****! I've been trying to keep up with you guys but sometimes work over comes me!

Boomer!


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[Murphy Slaw]

I wonder.....

Since PUP 5w20 is impossible to find locally, if you could mix 5 qts. PP 5w20 and 2 qts. PUP 0w40?

Hmmmmmmm.......

 

[SyN]

Just my thoughts & experience.
Break-In wear metals are ridiculous & I feel need to be flushed out often. At least until the 20-25K mile mark.

PYB = Cheap
Drain FF @ 1K add PYB
Drain PYB @ 3K
Drain PYB @ 5K
Drain PYB @10K

You can switch to synthetic @ 3K if you like! Or
switch anytime after the 1K mile OCI.

Now is just how I was told by a highly respected engine builder in the Metro.
Is it the ideal/Proper method? I have no clue. But it some what makes sense to me.

I did my Ram in this method but with M1 AFE 0W-20. I did leave the same Fram Ultra on during the 1K through the 5K mile period.

Remember this is only a Suggestion! Not a proven Full Proof method!

You could very easily change it too
1K - 5K - 10K

I understand what Kyle was trying to convey to me:----> Break in wear metals accumulate within a new motor quite quickly. You don't want these metals continuely building up & circulating during a long OCI = 5K miles.

Only a suggestion! Millions of autos drive the roads today with 100K -200K miles still with no issues & they didn't do anything like this.
Is it necessary? Probably Not !

Main idea is to not let those Initial Break-In wear metals continually build up within a new motor! Until @ least the 10-15K mile mark.
Break-In wear metals are normally still showing up & @ a high rate until the 20-25K mile mark in most engines! A lot also depends on the driving style & habits of the owner.

 

[huntergreen]

tsk for the info guys!

 

[Hemi395]

I wonder.....

Since PUP 5w20 is impossible to find locally, if you could mix 5 qts. PP 5w20 and 2 qts. PUP 0w40?

Hmmmmmmm.......

You certainly could they're essentially the same basestocks, just different additives.

 

[Burla]

It's official then we can recommend oils with over 200ppm moly as a possible answer to hemi tick with Corey's (H395) success. I remember how nervous he was switching after his failures, so kudo's for trying it over Redline. I would however caution people running the average amount of moly (60ppm) and thinking that is an answer for tick, that simply hasn't been the case. And with all of the Cam and Lifter failures and guys not running moly oils I would say you would have to be crazy not to have some moly even if you don't have the tick.

Another option we haven't really been talking about is running a couple qrts of Redline with your mix for a moly boost. Especially for folks not wanting to run a 40 weight in their mix. It isn't as neat as running the same oils like some PP and some PUP, but you only need a qrt or two to any oil and it will boost moly twice as much as anything out there except motul.

 

[crazykid1994]

Where are people finding info on oil makeup? I keep seeing mentions of the srt 0w40 oil on amazon and comment about high moly count. I do have a slight valvetrain tick but it sounds like my old magnum 318 with the lifters so probably not anything wrong. I know it's been asked but it would take forever to search through this thread. I live in Florida so the temps are usually 80-90 with low 100 in the dead of summer and 5w20 sounds thin for this heat


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[U&A]

It's official then we can recommend oils with over 200ppm moly as a possible answer to hemi tick with Corey's (H395) success. I remember how nervous he was switching after his failures, so kudo's for trying it over Redline. I would however caution people running the average amount of moly (60ppm) and thinking that is an answer for tick, that simply hasn't been the case. And with all of the Cam and Lifter failures and guys not running moly oils I would say you would have to be crazy not to have some moly even if you don't have the tick.

Another option we haven't really been talking about is running a couple qrts of Redline with your mix for a moly boost. Especially for folks not wanting to run a 40 weight in their mix. It isn't as neat as running the same oils like some PP and some PUP, but you only need a qrt or two to any oil and it will boost moly twice as much as anything out there except motul.

I though you all (and I personaly think) that mixing brands COULD be a bad idea. But i have zero evidence of it.

Thoughts?

 

[Burla]

The "book" says not a great idea, but running a Hemi engine without high moly a worse idea. You can search machine lube they talk about this, absent the hemi part.

 

[Burla]

Where are people finding info on oil makeup?

Search whatever oil you are interested in and VOA or UOA in the search as well. If you still have trouble let me know. PQIA has a stack of them, but I don't believe they have 40 weight pup.

 

[crazykid1994]

Search whatever oil you are interested in and VOA or UOA in the search as well. If you still have trouble let me know. PQIA has a stack of them, but I don't believe they have 40 weight pup.

Penzoil platinum, Castrol, and Mobil 1 are the easiest to obtain in my area. Not looking specifically at 0-40 just noticed everyone said that's high in moly which the hemi needs. Trying to find maybe a 5-30 and/or is it ok to mix pup 0-40 and 5-20


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[U&A]

The "book" says not a great idea, but running a Hemi engine without high moly a worse idea. You can search machine lube they talk about this, absent the hemi part.

Wait wait...

A book?

Or a hypothetical "book"

 

[R.L.K.]

Wait wait...

A book?

Or a hypothetical "book"

Hypothetical. .....kinda like a rule of thumb so to speak .

It's the mixing of different brands of (proprietary ) base stock , I believe to be (not a great idea ) however it's not like it's mixing water with oil , it's a lot more like mixing oil with oil ....because it is

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[smiley]

I though you all (and I personaly think) that mixing brands COULD be a bad idea. But i have zero evidence of it.



Thoughts?

It doesn't matter as long as both oils are of good quality and approved for use in the engine. There are some really cheap brands that have been found to not be of minimum spec and should not be used. I don't mean like Mobil 1 I mean like cheap oils that not only don't have the Chrysler spec but they have been found to damage motors of any brand and type because they are garbage.

 

[R.L.K.]

It doesn't matter as long as both oils are of good quality and approved for use in the engine. There are some really cheap brands that have been found to not be of minimum spec and should not be used. I don't mean like Mobil 1 I mean like cheap oils that not only don't have the Chrysler spec but they have been found to damage motors of any brand and type because they are garbage.

Sounds lagit? Hmm ...things that make you say hmmm. ..

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[smiley]

Exhibit A:
http://www.app.com/story/money/business/consumer/2014/12/04/nj-motor-oil-ban/19892967/

 

[smiley]

Exhibit B:
https://pqiablog.com/2017/05/11/consumer-alerts-issued-on-three-q-motor-oil-viscosity-grades/