Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 236 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 400 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 994 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 662 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,779

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Ramnewbie

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I'll have to check that out. A few years ago it was the typical "good/better/best" rating for PYB/PP/PUP respectively
Yeah, they've changed the wording now, it's PUP recommended, Gold is standard, PP is optional.

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U&A

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Just thinking


What is the manufacturer reccomended OCI on the 5.7? Asking because if it is the standard of around 7-8,000 miles than why would they put conventional PYB in it?

Wow i had some auto correct errors in this post
 
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R.L.K.

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In my 2014 owner's manual for the 1500 5.7L it says to not exceed 12 months or 10,000 miles under any circumstances. It also metions to go by the OLM and mentions lesser oci's for law enforcement , harsh conditions ..bla bla bla

Wonder how long your hemi would last on PYB dino oil with 10k oci's [emoji44][emoji44]

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69GWC

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Going by the OLM would be a fail imo, since it does not know what type of oil a person is running. cheap crap or good stuff.
 

U&A

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Going by the OLM would be a fail imo, since it does not know what type of oil a person is running. cheap crap or good stuff.

But you could at least expect it to need an oil change exactly when you would expect it to....right
 

U&A

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I would never trust the OLM. I never reset mine at my last change and it has been on %16 for the past 2weeks.

Ill probobly reset it soon just so it shows an “oil change” befor it runs to zero. Dont want that saved in the computer if i have any engine issues under warranty
 

smiley

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PYB is very good I bet it could handle 6k maybe even 7-8 but I also can’t see running it until 10. Most of the synthetics should not go over 10 unless ran in ideal conditions.
 

Ramnewbie

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Has anyone heard anything about conventional oil being phased out. The distributer we deal with says he's having real problems getting conventional oil now, pretty much everything is going blend or full syn.

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Hemi395

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I can see that happening. Most new vehicle are calling for a 0w oil which is only available in a synthetic or blend
 

U&A

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I hope not. The king of conventional.....PYB is in its own class with the amount of additive it has in it. Even with the new lessor formulation.
 

Ramnewbie

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Oh and btw, from pricing I seen dealers are paying less than $10 a gal for 5/30 full sythetic Dexos1 Gen2 oil. That's GM logo oil, I don't know who blends it but it's labeled as official GM oil.

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Burla

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For the longest time and perhaps even still, the zero weights were all the rage at Bob's. I never understood the fascination, I always viewed them as less then. Even the Super Class oils could have been made in 5 winter ratings instead of 0, and had the same exact visc except -30F. They add more stuff that isn't good for long term lubrication of metal to get the 0 instead of the 5. Maybe you guys in the snow states can make an argument for it, does anyone prefer 0 weights?
 

Ramnewbie

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For the longest time and perhaps even still, the zero weights were all the rage at Bob's. I never understood the fascination, I always viewed them as less then. Even the Super Class oils could have been made in 5 winter ratings instead of 0, and had the same exact visc except -30F. They add more stuff that isn't good for long term lubrication of metal to get the 0 instead of the 5. Maybe you guys in the snow states can make an argument for it, does anyone prefer 0 weights?
I think the EPA struck again. 0 wt means less warmup time and faster warmup to operating temp. Less ideling. It's all about that fuel mileage, screw what's happening to the engine.

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Burla

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The cost you pay for that small period of time is large, the oil is weaker for every minute you are at operating temps, but I guess you are right about that.
 

Ramnewbie

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EPA don't care about what's happening with the oil or you're engine. All they are concerned about is fuel milage and carbon output. The sooner you're engine comes up to temp the less emissions it will have. They win, we lose.

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U&A

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For the longest time and perhaps even still, the zero weights were all the rage at Bob's. I never understood the fascination, I always viewed them as less then. Even the Super Class oils could have been made in 5 winter ratings instead of 0, and had the same exact visc except -30F. They add more stuff that isn't good for long term lubrication of metal to get the 0 instead of the 5. Maybe you guys in the snow states can make an argument for it, does anyone prefer 0 weights?

Prefer..... no. But they defanitly help with cold start ups. But IMO, if a 5W is not working for someone because they NEED better flow at super cold temps.... than you are most likely going to be using a block heater anyway so a 5w would work fine.
 

Hemi395

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For the longest time and perhaps even still, the zero weights were all the rage at Bob's. I never understood the fascination, I always viewed them as less then. Even the Super Class oils could have been made in 5 winter ratings instead of 0, and had the same exact visc except -30F. They add more stuff that isn't good for long term lubrication of metal to get the 0 instead of the 5. Maybe you guys in the snow states can make an argument for it, does anyone prefer 0 weights?

I started my work van this morning at 10*F which has M1 5w30 in it and it started absolutely fine. There was the slightest bit of timing chain buzz for a half second or less but thats it. Never had a hard cranking problem with any 5w oil, even conventional. However, it rarely gets below 0F here.

The real cold states that regularly see -30F might want to consider a 0w but honestly I would only run it in the winter. I did notice my truck was noisier, albeit slightly, on Redline 0w30 vs Redline 5w30.
 

Ramnewbie

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I know my wife's GC didn't like the 0/20 that the dealer put in it. Noisey as hell and ran like crap.

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