Synthetic Oil

[Ramnewbie]

Before I'd use 0 wt I'd move to warmer climate.

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[smiley]

Even here 5W oil is fine but 0W is easier to start without a doubt. The HEMI starts pretty decent down to around -20F where it can get touch and go depending on time it sat and how low.

 

[U&A]

Before I'd use 0 wt I'd move to warmer climate.

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I like the colder climates, it keeps some of the riff raff out.

 

[Stefan N]

have a pre heater of some sort (electric/gas) then you can use "summer" oil year round

 

[Hemi395]

I know my wife's GC didn't like the 0/20 that the dealer put in it. Noisey as hell and ran like crap.

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After seeing Pennzoils website recommendations, I'm assuming the dealers 0w20 is either PP or P Gold. My wife's Grand Cherokee 3.6 rattled like crazy on cold starts with what the dealer put in. The FF wasn't nearly as noisy as what the dealer put in.

Since I have a good stock of PUP, I'm thinking of doing a 50/50 mix of 5w20 and 0w40 in her Grand Cherokee next time. Or maybe 2 qts 0w40 and 4 qts 5w20, I'll have to look at the viscs @ 100c. Might as well use it up...

 

[Burla]

So Kap followed up, no tick on redline even though when he got his car back it was ticking on Pennzoil. I don't know that I would call that a success story, but once again Redline proves itself as the tick killer. That is the stuff you wont see in a uoa, over and over and over. Both great choices, one will give you better wear numbers every time and one will make your engine butter smooth every time.

I was kind of hoping the dealer would go back and fix Kap's truck better, no chance of that now that redline killed his tick.

 

[Burla]

My question before deciding on what % to mix was how the vehicle was operating on 20 weight versus the mix at 5/2? Someone would have to be paying attention mainly on cold idle and warm idle.

 

[Hemi395]

I'm really starting to think it may not be the valve train that's causing ticking. Wouldn't a cam that's getting smoothed by a seized roller be essentially silent? There's constant pressure on the pushrod and therefore the lifter from the valve spring so there shouldn't be any broken contact between the cam lobe and the lifter. Been thinking about this with all the cam failures lately, thoughts?

 

[U&A]

I'm really starting to think it may not be the valve train that's causing ticking. Wouldn't a cam that's getting smoothed by a seized roller be essentially silent? There's constant pressure on the pushrod and therefore the lifter from the valve spring so there shouldn't be any broken contact between the cam lobe and the lifter. Been thinking about this with all the cam failures lately, thoughts?

I completely understand what you are saying. I have thought this befor and cant seem to make 100% sense for the true hemi tic. It is such a loud tic when you have tru hemi tic that its hard to believe.

But these engines are so simple that there is not much else going on up their. It has to be just one of them on each engine that is ticing. The pattern of the sound is to far apart to be more than one of them. Otherwise it would sound like a full auto AK if it was a handfull if them all at once.

But im not a mechanic. So im just guessing what is happening based on how i know these things oporate.

 

[Kap1]

I saw some posts that say that truck needed motor replacement because the cam was worn and there were metal shavings through.

What are the chances of that happening? I'm worried that instead of a regular cam and lifters job which could cost $4k, I'll need a whole new motor which will be 10k or so...

 

[Hemi395]

I completely understand what you are saying. I have thought this befor and cant seem to make 100% sense for the true hemi tic. It is such a loud tic when you have tru hemi tic that its hard to believe.

But these engines are so simple that there is not much else going on up their. It has to be just one of them on each engine that is ticing. The pattern of the sound is to far apart to be more than one of them. Otherwise it would sound like a full auto AK if it was a handfull if them all at once.

But im not a mechanic. So im just guessing what is happening based on how i know these things oporate.

Exactly what I was thinking. If I had to call the hemi tick noise something on a SBC, it would be excessive valve lash. But if that were the case, why would Redline quiet it?

 

[Burla]

Just my opinion, but if the lifter is out of tolerance from lack or lubrication or bad design, when that lifter is forced to lift because it was hit by a cam lob, I personally think this is where the ticks are. I think all of the evidence hints to this as well.

And Kap many many engines and transmissions get metal shavings, even brand new ones and specifically brand new ones. If everyone changed their oil the first time and was looking for shavings, many of these trucks would show them, and we have seen guys on the board commenting as much. I'm not say'n it is not a worry, but it is what it is, hopefully the filter catches it. Cut open your filters.

 

[Hemi395]

I saw some posts that say that truck needed motor replacement because the cam was worn and there were metal shavings through.

What are the chances of that happening? I'm worried that instead of a regular cam and lifters job which could cost $4k, I'll need a whole new motor which will be 10k or so...

That would be my concern with a smoothed cam lobe as well. All those metal shavings would have to go somewhere. BUT I think the critical thing is how big are the shavings? If it's gradually smoothing the lobe over time it's most likely getting caught by the filter and washed out every oil change. IMO a good reason to get a filter magnet.

 

[R.L.K.]

Ha ha , because Redline oil is liquid gold [emoji44][emoji44][emoji44]

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[Burla]

I just don't know that there would be metal shavings unless the scars are really rough. I think it would just be accelerated wear, which means the wear metals would be very small like normal, but just more of it. I think every situation would be different, but I bet the guys with the smooth cams and no gouges in it have very few shavings from it.

 

[Burla]

Ha ha , because Redline oil is liquid gold [emoji44][emoji44][emoji44]

I honestly don't know what more someone would want to understand what we did here and nowhere else. I mean a guy who ran redline and still failed, and then half fixed truck still ticking, still has enough confidence to run redline, and then ends his ticking. Every story is different, but that one is pretty amazing. Clearly redline aint gonna fix everything, duh, but there is no doubt of it's tick killing abilities over and over.

Hopefully Kap's problems are over, but even if they aren't this is relevant to guys who maybe have a lesser tick.

 

[Burla]

Kap keep honest info coming back even if the tick comes back after your trip. All we care about is the truth whatever it ends up being.

 

[U&A]

In regards to shavings in NEW engines.

One of the machine lines the company i work for makes is basically a conveyor driven wash for almost any new part that the customer wants washed and dried. Think automatic drive through car wash. For example we just made one for the new water cooled engine block for Harley Davison. There are LOTS of high pressure spray nozzles all pointed in precisely the right direction to clean a specific area of the block/part/whatever. There is a high pressure rinse, high pressure customer specific cleaner, a 2nd rinse and then a dry. All processes are done with super hot water. Another important note is a lot of the machines recyce the water through a filter. All new engine blocks go through a wash machine like ours. And let me tell you... they dont always come out clean and free of shavings. Most do yes, but not all. Its darnd near impossible.

 

[Kap1]

A question.

I just checked my receipt for the oil change that i did couple days ago, with RL, and saw that they charged me for 8 quarts of redline oil, but it was supposed to be only 7 quarts.

I checked the oil dipstick on my truck, and it's definitely higher than the top hole of the dipstick.

Should i be concerned if they actually put-in 8 quarts of oil ? Do i need to drain a bit? I have a long trip coming up.

 

[U&A]

Kap,

From what iv heard about the 5.7’s, my 6.4 included, if you do 7 quarts it is still failry high above the top hole on your dip stick.

I would go back and ask for a refund of the quart. My oil will be about 1/4” above the top hole when cold after sitting all night.

Hope this helps