Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

 

[Burla]

I think he miss marked the page, Euro is part of the platinum line. Looks pretty good, minus the extra moly. But I wonder why they make the euro with so much zinc. dunno

 

[chrisbh17]

I still feel like the moly is the most important part. It could explain why the PYB made my engine quieter....I know it has a good shot of moly in it.

Seems to me that the Euro spec versions are usually "opposite" the non-euro...i.e. higher in zinc and phos., lower in moly.

 

[Murphy Slaw]

I order PUP from Walmart online and it's delivered to my house.

 

[CunningStunt]

@ CunningStunt ,

I can't believe no one has responded to your post , so I'll try to answer your questions ....but first I have a question for you Sir ...

You said you've had 4ea oil changes and you are approching 100,000 miles ...??

Did you purchase this truck new or used ?

If new ....what oil have you been using with such HIGH oil change intervals ???

If used , how many miles on the engine when you purchased ?


NowI'll try to answer your questions ...[emoji16]

First off a ticking noise is NOT normal unless you are hearing the fuel injectors ...you may be hearing an exhaust leak ??? Many here and abroad have had broken exhaust manifold bolts ...

IMHO ....you should not be using a 20wt oil in your hemi 5.7L 395 HP Engine , a 20wt oil is for a 4cylinder engine ....the 20 wt oil is an ignorant government fuel saving standard impossed on vehicle manufacturers ( has nothing to do with protection for your engine )

I'm the guy who is running a 50/50 mix of Redline 10W & 5W DASH - 30 OIL ....this is for higher Molybdenum , Zinc and Phophorus ppms in these two oils , and the 10W I believe has the higher Molybdenum, zinc & phophorus.... I'll be doing a UOA aka Used Oil Analysis soon to verify these claims I've read on the 10W Redline .
I and many others believe the higher ppm s of Molybdenum , phophorus and zinc is the best mixture for the 5.7L hemi ....modern oil regulations ( cafe ) have lower phophorus & zinc )

As for the type of RP Filter we are using :::
RP 10-48
Or
RP 20-820

The 20-820 is the larger of the two and fits just fine on the 2013 - 2018 Ram trucks .

Hope this helps !!



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I bought in Nov 2016 with 54k on it.

The tic isn't loud, very subtle once she's warm.

I been running 20weight per manual, and request high mileage name brand oil when I did my changes.

I did oil changes per the odometer

Thanks for the info, I'll fork out the dough for the redline and rp filter

 

[SyN]

Ramnewbie: What do you really mean by saying Better?

Better @ what?

Chris: You are 100% correct on your assumption.
I myself used 6Qts of the SRT 0W-40 & 1qts of 5W-30 year round & my 5.7L reacted extremely well to this combo. No issues & averaged 19.6 mpg. My first UOA come back showing All Wear #s well below the normal average.

Amazon is always in stock with the SRT 0W-40. The last case I bought w/Prime was $54!
The SRT version is on the thin side & will shear down within the range of a thick 30wt within a couple thousand miles.
Shell possibly still uses the Tri-Nuclear Moly within this Oil (Very High Quality Moly) which makes this Oil a proven top performer at any level.

Switch to RL if you like—->I for see zero issues with either.
I’m sure Brother Nic can hook ya up.

 

[Burla]

I was asked what would I run if I had a brand new hemi, I will copy and paste what I said just for those interested. I believe the reasons are self explanatory if you read the syn thread. I would only start mixing 0w40 PUP in if I didn't like loudness of the engine. But generally would move over to the tick killer in that situation anyhow. PUP has proven itself the best wear numbers in the hemi, Redline has proven itself as best oil at smoothing out unwanted ticks when they are present. M1 has proven itself to be great oil with the best pricing. I'm sure many others would make my best list if I looked around more, many good choices. honorable mention to pyb.

If I was a guy to worry about warranty I would use 5w20 PUP, but since I'm not terribly worried about warranty I would use 5w30 PUP. If I didn't like the engine noise I would move to Redline, but only if I developed a tick. I would use m1 as well, but they don't meet ram specs and I like the formula of PUP better anyhow.

 

[R.L.K.]

Well said BBB .

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[Ramnewbie]

Ramnewbie: What do you really mean by saying Better?

Better @ what?

Chris: You are 100% correct on your assumption.
I myself used 6Qts of the SRT 0W-40 & 1qts of 5W-30 year round & my 5.7L reacted extremely well to this combo. No issues & averaged 19.6 mpg.

Amazon is always in stock with the SRT 0W-40. The last case I bought w/Prime was $54!
The SRT version is on the thin side & will shear down within the range of a thick 30wt within a couple thousand miles.
Shell possibly still uses the Tri-Nuclear Moly within this Oil (Very High Quality Moly) which makes this Oil a proven top performer at any level.

Switch to RL if you like—->I for see zero issues with either.

Cold start noise, with Pennzoil and castrol would get lifter noise like dry starts. That was gone with Amsoil but sounded like it rockers were running dry for a couple of seconds till oil got pumped up there. At the present time with M1 no noises.

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[Burla]

Hey a much more interesting list would be what wouldn't you use Burla, lol glad he didn't ask that one. No I wont be going there.

 

[Burla]

Cold start noise, with Pennzoil and castrol would get lifter noise like dry starts. That was gone with Amsoil but sounded like it rockers were running dry for a couple of seconds till oil got pumped up there. At the present time with M1 no noises.

I think it is smart idea to search around and try things if you aren't happy with your ram cold or dry starts, some oils are definitely better then others.

 

[SyN]

Just goes back to the old False Myth ——>Motor Oil is Motor Oil!

This is so far from the truth it is literally ridiculous to even think that.

Similar to thinking that all tires & their compounds are all the same!

 

[Burla]

Most applications you would never even sweat it, but these hemi's should be test cases because of the engines we get to live the differences. It trickles down as well, I would have never considered running 5w30 in the rav 4 prior to what we figured out here. Now, that suv is butter smooth on 5w30 PUP, and I mean butter smooth! On 5w20 m1 it was a rattle trap.

 

[SyN]

I agree Burla!
Just like posted a few pages back with the Ford eco-boost engine. Which we all know are all direct injected.

If you own one of these engines you better damn well do your homework.
My wife’s 2L I4 EB which is a very robust small engine will only be getting one oil & filter. No exceptions.
Luckily for me Oil changes on this engine as well as transmission are very easy and quick & mess free w/FuMoto Valve.

I will not be installing a catch can on this motor so I feel my oil choice is very critical.
Especially since our future plans are passing this car down to our daughter to finish with her PT school

Same is applied for my sons 2014 GMC 5.3L DI motor. (We did install a CC on his motor.)

Unfortunately in the near future I will bet to wager 3/4 of the petrol engines will be DI.
Those exhaust valves will always begin forming deposits fairly early within the motors life.
I have read where Lexus is very close to solving this issue with another injector spraying on the exhaust valves.
Hopefully within the next few years this issue is never talked about.

Right now only thing I have heard or read to help with this issue is using the proper oil w/catch can and put into use of a good old-fashioned Italian tuneup ever so often.

None our new autos as well as our aged autos have ever felt or tasted the 20wt oils except for the FF.
Our new Edge (2017) is recommended for strictly 5W-30!
At the time of purchase the service manager and I chatted and he even recommended during the summer months I could use a top Synthetic 10W-30 or even a 0W-40 synthetic oil to help protect that motor.
No Questions Would ever be asked—>as long as I followed the oil life monitor.

 

[chrisbh17]

For now Ill be going with PUP. I can get even more 5W-20 and have enough 5W-30 for a while. Will keep an ear on the engine noise....its hard to say what is really noisy because even my G37 and ES350 engines make "noise".

But I figure as long as Im using Chrysler-spec oil, if it ever came down to it I should be OK.

 

[Burla]

Syn why no CC on the DI?

Yes, it seams like many of the DI's are actually hybrid DI/PI, so you figure they will have to solve the issue somehow or another. I would however be careful before purchasing one at this time.

 

[CunningStunt]

what auto store carries redline oils?

 

[R.L.K.]

what auto store carries redline oils?

You can go to Redline's website and use their find a suppliers function ....there are very few ...

Imo it's best to get it from Nick@GotExhaust a member and vendor here on the forum . Nick's prices are Fantastic and his Shipping is free [emoji6]

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[Ramnewbie]

You can go to Redline's website and use their find a suppliers function ....there are very few ...

Imo it's best to get it from Nick@GotExhaust a member and vendor here on the forum . Nick's prices are Fantastic and his Shipping is free [emoji6]

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I know redlines website used to say that advance auto parts had it, it still may, but the only redline product we had in the store was water wetter, and we don't even carry that anymore. We can get redline but it's not in the store and quiet frankly it wasn't a great price. Even with my employee discount I could do just as good ordering straight from Redline, and I know there's better deals than that.

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[HammerHead]

I wanted to post this for the readers. Enjoy! Have a slippery weekend LOL

Oil Viscosity is an important decision when choosing your oil, regardless of oil brand. Because all engines are constructed with “very specific” clearances between internal engine components. Those clearances are determined by the engine designers (engineers) and that’s why they give you the recommended oil weight. So why is this important? It’s because internal engine components are cooled by oil “Directly” and cooled by the coolant “Indirectly”. So running a thicker oil than what is recommended is a bad idea in most cases. Because oil “flow” through internal engine clearances is critical for proper lubrication and to pull heat from internal engine components. The engine oil temperature in these areas of the engine can be 50-90 degrees “Hotter” than oil sump temperatures; thinner oils flow better than thicker oils pulling more heat from internal engine components. I tested this by switching from manufacturer recommended 5w20 to 5w30 while canyon racing in the North Georgia mountains, and my oil sump temperatures were 16 degrees “Hotter” on average running the thicker oil. Why? Because the thicker oil’s flow “slower” through internal engine components and get hotter, driving up bearing temperatures, reach or exceed the oils thermal stability (more on that below), lubricate less affectively and pull less heat from your engine. Thicker oils do provide options with mechanical noise, but mechanical noise doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem with the engine; usually just annoys the vehicle owner. Bottom line, choose your oil viscosity specific to your needs. But if you choose a thicker oil, you need to understand what is happening inside your engine.


Now that you understand the importance of oil viscosity let’s talk about the single “Most” important aspect of oil. Anti-wear performance! Your oils anti-wear performance is the most critical job of your oil of choice, and differs wildly between different brands of oil. Doesn’t matter what oil manufactures you choose they “All” say their oil is the best. So where does that leave us? Where do we go to see the difference between oil and how they perform against one another? You, I, most of us end up on the internet forums getting opinions from “Self-Proclaimed” oil experts. They talk about base oil, oil additives, post used oil analysis (UOA) and ****** oil analysis (VOA). Trying to helplessly prove that their oil of choice is better. Or prove some other pathetic point that has no relevance on the oils anti-wear performance. So where does that leave us? Were right back to the first and most important issue with oil choice, How Does It Perform against other oils???? There is only one (1) place you can this information, and the link to the oil testing site is in my signature, and at the end of this post. 216 oils tested and compared by a qualified mechanical engineer, independent, controlled, repeatable oil testing that you Cannot find anywhere else. Your only other option is to listen to some self-proclaimed oil expert pretending to be something they could never be.


Now that that you can freely scroll through the oil testing site and see how oils compare against one another, and you understand the importance of oil viscosity. Let’s talk about the next important aspect of oil. Thermal Stability! Oil thermal stability is the oils ability to maintain anti-wear characteristics while heated past design. All oils have a drop in anti-wear performance when heated, but the drop varies wildly from oil to oil. Some drop 5-10% while others have a significant drop 25-30%, this is another important thing to consider when choosing your oil. With that said, were right back to the big question; where can we find information on thermal stability? The internet? The pathetic self-proclaimed oil expert? Where? This information can be found on the oil test site along with the anti-wear performance. Before you ask why thermal stability is important, go to the test site and see for yourself. It’s too complex for me to articulate on a forum. The mechanical engineer has a questions and answer section where you can ask questions, and get a qualified answer from a qualified person.


Credit: Mechanical Engineer Rat 540

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/