Synthetic Oil

[Ramnewbie]

I wanted to post this for the readers. Enjoy! Have a slippery weekend LOL

Oil Viscosity is an important decision when choosing your oil, regardless of oil brand. Because all engines are constructed with “very specific” clearances between internal engine components. Those clearances are determined by the engine designers (engineers) and that’s why they give you the recommended oil weight. So why is this important? It’s because internal engine components are cooled by oil “Directly” and cooled by the coolant “Indirectly”. So running a thicker oil than what is recommended is a bad idea in most cases. Because oil “flow” through internal engine clearances is critical for proper lubrication and to pull heat from internal engine components. The engine oil temperature in these areas of the engine can be 50-90 degrees “Hotter” than oil sump temperatures; thinner oils flow better than thicker oils pulling more heat from internal engine components. I tested this by switching from manufacturer recommended 5w20 to 5w30 while canyon racing in the North Georgia mountains, and my oil sump temperatures were 16 degrees “Hotter” on average running the thicker oil. Why? Because the thicker oil’s flow “slower” through internal engine components and get hotter, driving up bearing temperatures, reach or exceed the oils thermal stability (more on that below), lubricate less affectively and pull less heat from your engine. Thicker oils do provide options with mechanical noise, but mechanical noise doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem with the engine; usually just annoys the vehicle owner. Bottom line, choose your oil viscosity specific to your needs. But if you choose a thicker oil, you need to understand what is happening inside your engine.


Now that you understand the importance of oil viscosity let’s talk about the single “Most” important aspect of oil. Anti-wear performance! Your oils anti-wear performance is the most critical job of your oil of choice, and differs wildly between different brands of oil. Doesn’t matter what oil manufactures you choose they “All” say their oil is the best. So where does that leave us? Where do we go to see the difference between oil and how they perform against one another? You, I, most of us end up on the internet forums getting opinions from “Self-Proclaimed” oil experts. They talk about base oil, oil additives, post used oil analysis (UOA) and ****** oil analysis (VOA). Trying to helplessly prove that their oil of choice is better. Or prove some other pathetic point that has no relevance on the oils anti-wear performance. So where does that leave us? Were right back to the first and most important issue with oil choice, How Does It Perform against other oils???? There is only one (1) place you can this information, and the link to the oil testing site is in my signature, and at the end of this post. 216 oils tested and compared by a qualified mechanical engineer, independent, controlled, repeatable oil testing that you Cannot find anywhere else. Your only other option is to listen to some self-proclaimed oil expert pretending to be something they could never be.


Now that that you can freely scroll through the oil testing site and see how oils compare against one another, and you understand the importance of oil viscosity. Let’s talk about the next important aspect of oil. Thermal Stability! Oil thermal stability is the oils ability to maintain anti-wear characteristics while heated past design. All oils have a drop in anti-wear performance when heated, but the drop varies wildly from oil to oil. Some drop 5-10% while others have a significant drop 25-30%, this is another important thing to consider when choosing your oil. With that said, were right back to the big question; where can we find information on thermal stability? The internet? The pathetic self-proclaimed oil expert? Where? This information can be found on the oil test site along with the anti-wear performance. Before you ask why thermal stability is important, go to the test site and see for yourself. It’s too complex for me to articulate on a forum. The mechanical engineer has a questions and answer section where you can ask questions, and get a qualified answer from a qualified person.


Credit: Mechanical Engineer Rat 540

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Everybody together now. BS

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[grizzstang]

Hey I have never seen that before.....oh wait I have...the other 14 times you posted it in this thread and the other 30 or so you have posted it elsewhere on the forum. Expand your horizons and read something else.

 

[U&A]

Help me remember did somebody post up oil analysis of Mopar‘s transfer case fluid? If I remember I thought somebody had said the analysis showed it was very similar to ATF +4.

I’m asking because I may buy a quart of their transfer case fluid and compare it to redline C + in an analysis when it comes time to do a fluid change on it.

 

[R.L.K.]

Help me remember did somebody post up oil analysis of Mopar‘s transfer case fluid? If I remember I thought somebody had said the analysis showed it was very similar to ATF +4.

I’m asking because I may buy a quart of their transfer case fluid and compare it to redline C + in an analysis when it comes time to do a fluid change on it.

I can't remember if an analysis was actually posted , but I know this was discussed on the 65RFE thread and if I remember correctly someone did use ATF+4 in their BW44-44 XSFER CASE with no issues .

Here's a link to the thread , not sure where that was discussed , but I believe it was within the first couple hundred post .

http://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1351574


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[U&A]

Thank you sir for the refresher

Not 100% sure about using C+ in my BW44-47 yet if I don’t know what the differences are between the fluid specified for it and Redline C+. Was just contemplating it more today since I’ve been using my 4 x 4 a lot the The past couple months

 

[Burla]

My NAPA has everything redline, all of the oils and the gear fluids. I'm kinda surprised they have to many of the race oils. I hope people aren't running that in their trucks.

 

[R.L.K.]

My NAPA has everything redline, all of the oils and the gear fluids. I'm kinda surprised they have to many of the race oils. I hope people aren't running that in their trucks.

Damn that's awesome !
Gonna have to stop at our NAPA and see if they carry any Redline products , as I never stop at Napa anymore . I live pretty close to an Advance Auto parts.

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[Ramnewbie]

Damn that's awesome !
Gonna have to stop at our NAPA and see if they carry any Redline products , as I never stop at Napa anymore . I live pretty close to an Advance Auto parts.

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Damn, me too, I haven't been there in quite awhile, have to check it out. Wander if I wear my advance auto shirt in if they'll give me a discount.

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[R.L.K.]

Damn, me too, I haven't been there in quite awhile, have to check it out. Wander if I wear my advance auto shirt in if they'll give me a discount.

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Pretty sure your not allowed in NAPA LOL [emoji106][emoji106][emoji848][emoji848]

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[Ramnewbie]

Pretty sure your not allowed in NAPA LOL [emoji106][emoji106][emoji848][emoji848]

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I'll just tell my boss of she don't like it to get it on our shelf's.

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[Hemi395]

Help me remember did somebody post up oil analysis of Mopar‘s transfer case fluid? If I remember I thought somebody had said the analysis showed it was very similar to ATF +4.

I’m asking because I may buy a quart of their transfer case fluid and compare it to redline C + in an analysis when it comes time to do a fluid change on it.

Yes I did a voa on the Mopar 44-44 fluid and Dex3. Give me a bit to find them on my laptop and I'll post them.

 

[Hemi395]

Here they are. Looking at these I'm fairly sure the 44-44 fluid is a Dex 3 derivative. Very similar viscosity and other properties just a different add pack. I'm very interested in a VOA of RL C+ for comparison

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

what auto store carries redline oils?

We do, send me a message with what you need and we can get you setup!

 

[SyN]

Nick: Great news on the buying options you offer.
Buying all of the RL products by the case would be insanely expensive.

Like I stated awhile back: I will be switching over from the FF to RL beginning @ the rearend/Transfer Case/Frontend this up & coming summer months.
While also adding a Aluminum Rearend cover to aid in cooling & to make service quick & easy. (Just a smart decision with the summer towing).
Front Differential (4WD or 3WD) will not be used a lot maybe 3-4 times a year so only really needs a good fluid change.

The largest project & most expensive will be the New Pan & 68RFE service & Filter change. Probably at the later part of the summer just depending on how many miles I rack up. (She is just not yet driven much) Right now leaning towards Schaeffers All-Trans for the fluid.

Nick: Thanks again for your service to us members who choose to run RL.

 

[U&A]

Here they are. Looking at these I'm fairly sure the 44-44 fluid is a Dex 3 derivative. Very similar viscosity and other properties just a different add pack. I'm very interested in a VOA of RL C+ for comparison

Thank you very much sir,

I will do a VOA on Redlin C+. Just give me a little time. Ill be sure to post it here and in the 65RFE thread.

Should i do TBN?

Naaa, never mind. It will be very low

 

[Hemi395]

Thank you very much sir,

I will do a VOA on Redlin C+. Just give me a little time. Ill be sure to post it here and in the 65RFE thread.

Should i do TBN?

Naaa, never mind. It will be very low

Awesome thanks! If the add back it similar I'm trying C+ in my 44-44. Worst case I have to dump it and put the unicorn fluid back in.

You should be fine with C+ in your tcase because I don't believe the 44-47 has any clutches...

 

[R.L.K.]

In April I'll be doing my bi-annual fluid changes on our vehicles , one thing I will be doing is a xsmn pan drain and refill . This will make the third pan drain and refill ( 2nd one ) with the Mag-Hyteck pan drain . This I'm doing in an attempt to get the FF out and near 100% Redline C+ in [emoji16] , I won't be doing a UOA of this fluid because it will only have about 7k on it and it's still got some FF oil in it ; however , I will have a bit of RL C+ ATF left over so if U&A hasn't done a VOA of the C+ yet I'll do one then .

Oh and FWIW , I have the RL C + in my xsfer case as well ....BW 44-45

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[Burla]

You likely wont see the difference between Redline atf or say a M1 in a voa, the difference is the base oils. The benefit of running Redline or some other boutique transmission oils is that it likely wont shear at all, kind of like their 5w20 oil. You also will take away heat better and the oil wont break down under heat, and generally stay more cleaner then a ground oil. You buy something like 65 degrees F before fluid failure with redline, as similar with their gear fluid. But whatever the additive package is it that portion likely wont be giving substantial performance benefits. If you have money to burn go for it, it will be interesting, but if it were me I'd just save my money on that 1. A uoa would be better, see the oil didn't shear.

 

[U&A]

Awesome thanks! If the add back it similar I'm trying C+ in my 44-44. Worst case I have to dump it and put the unicorn fluid back in.

You should be fine with C+ in your tcase because I don't believe the 44-47 has any clutches...

This is correct.

 

[U&A]

**** it. Ill send out a VOA on Redlince C+ this coming week.