Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 237 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 401 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.7%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 997 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 663 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,785

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BlueRT

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Danke

With a post like that Sir YOU have gained my interest !
Ha I like the way you think and I agree for the most part

Thanks! But alas I must log out now as the Mrs. is yelling at me to stop drinking or get off the computer! :favorites13:
 

R.L.K.

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Lmgsao !
 

Squidbilly

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Squidbilly that was some Burla-ish stuff to do right there, lol. Yes I approve of that, and yes I would reuse that hands down. Micro glass will not degrade like paper, you are fine for re-using that for a 6 month oci in my opinion.

So it was still ticking when you took off the RP and put on Mopar? Is your tick gone now, with what combo? Let us know a little more of your experience and what you did and result please.



Yes, it still ticked with PP and Mopar filter, just wanted to test the filter variable. When I reused the the RP filter, I put in redline 5-20 and it still ticks (diesel'ish) till engine/oil is at a warmer temp. Although, its possible I might have the broken exhaust manifold bolt problem, haven't checked for that yet. Got worried about the RP filter because I now have a knock coming from the lower to mid drivers side of the engine. Randomly timed; knock.....knock...knock knock.......knock, etc.

I apologize for taking a while to reply. Been busy with work and bathroom remodel.
 

Burla

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How many miles on latest oil change?
 

raven3

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On esters vs rubber seal material
Refer to BITOG , article titled " esters in synthetic lubricants"
"As with any product there are down sides to esters. The most common concern when formulating with ester base stocks
is compatibility with elastromer material used in seals. All esters will tend to swell and soften most elastromer seals".

GF-5 certification require passing twenty four different test sequences, one of which is the elastromer compability test.
The most important metric is swelling or volume change when five different rubber seal materials are subjected at the tested oil for 336 continuous hours.
The maximum allowed swelling as measured by volume change is 5% based on ASTM D7216 test procedure.

I challenge you to show any evidence where Redline motor oil has passed this ASTM D7216 test.

Recently removed the silicon rubber anti drain valve flapper from a Fram Ultra oil filter and submerged it in acetone based paint thinner.
The rubber flapper swelled up like an inflated baloon.
After the solvent evaporated the silicone rubber flapper seal returned to original shape.
This same affect could happen to any oil filter anti drain valve seal, using a 100% ester based oil. Maybe the additives could reduce the swelling.
If the rubber seal has excessive volume change the seal will fail to prevent oil leakage.
 
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Burla

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Dude, I cut open my filters after 14 months of use in Redline oil and the anti drainback valve was literally perfect, I also checked the media and nothing, even the rubber rings where they attach. I hand checked all items close up, always do, I could have reused everything if I didn't ruin the canister. PAO is more risk then esters on seals, read. From lubes and greases magazine 2010, comparing esters versus pao.



Ability to withstand heat/oxidation. PAO:Good Ester:Good-Excellent

Hydrolytic stability. ie.water absorbs into the oil. PAO:Excellent Ester:poor

Additive solubility. PAO:poor Ester Excellent

Seal Swell. PAO: Poor Ester: Excellent

Vis. PAO: Excellent Ester:Excellent

Film Strength, PAO: Good Ester: Good




Redline has never had these issues that I ever heard of, it was literally pao's that were the enemy in motor oil and esters had some problems in other applications but has since long been solved. I would have never chose that oil if there was any issues, lol. Redline is in the neighborhood of 25% esters, it was likely formulated to be on the safe side. I'm not sure I would want to use 100% esters or PAO. If I did I would cut open my filters for sure. Time tested oil, been in millions of vehicles with likely the highest satisfaction rate of any oil. Not hype like other oils, the stats tell the story, this is solid science.


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raven3

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GF-5 certification tests five different rubber elastomer materials for swelling in accordance with ASTM D7216.
Silicon rubber is only one of them.
D7216 also includes nitrile rubber, polyacrlate rubber, fluorocarbon rubber & ethylene acrylic rubber.
It is difficult to eye ball a 5% increase in volume of the oil filter anti back drain valve flapper, but much easier than the small nitrile crankshaft lip seals.
Noticed the better oil filters use silicone rubber anti drain valve flapper and nitrile canister 0 ring seal.
 

raven3

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Had a phone conversation with Shell chemist on PP vs QSUD.
OCI on his Honda Accord 2.4L, 4 cylinder was 5k using 5w20..
Based on that OCI and factoring in the engine displacement, power train overall ratio, engine speed at 65 mph, engine oil volume,
OCI for the 5.7L should be ~4300 miles using PP or QSUD or annually,which ever occurs sooner.
 

raven3

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If Redline is 25% POE & 25% additive package, what is the remaining 50%?
 

R.L.K.

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If Redline is 25% POE & 25% additive package, what is the remaining 50%?
50% Pure LUST for internal engine components ! It's magical !
 
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RodRam

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I read many uoas that showed top oils like redline and Amsoil ss were done in under 8k burlas went much farther but I never saw one for Amsoil that even got close to the 25k they say it's good for. See this is why it's so hard to find a good long change oil every time you read how good something is you find a dozen more bad ones to counter act it. PP on most uoas was close to toast after 6k with a tbn of .09 . Found a YouTube vid of a Kia running redline 5-20 it said and that thing hammered like the devil, the more I read about these top price oils the more it think the poll in this topic is maybe telling us all something. Mobil1 2 to 1 over all other listed. M1 + lugeguard change every 5k is sounding real good. Lol
 
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PCT

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6e7e25af5000182211cabbf4de7c9127.jpg
Just my luck haha! Going to get the m1 filter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sicmadek

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I just bought some liquimoly mos2 from autozone for $8. It says made in germany on the bottle. They sell liquimoly engine oil on amazon fairly priced. So if it works ill buy it.
 

RodRam

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I just bought some liquimoly mos2 from autozone for $8. It says made in germany on the bottle. They sell liquimoly engine oil on amazon fairly priced. So if it works ill buy it.

SYN used it In his last oil run it was PUP the older version with mos2 it did well for him but his motor makes no objectionable noises so who knows. I added 1/2 a bottle to my Castrol magnatec run I did after I figured out castrols cling technology was BS and ran it for several hundred more miles it didn't change the noise but it did add about .5 mpg to my around town average, I should of done the lugeguard like burla advised and I will next go around. The mos2 is nasty looking stuff and turns your oil a dark grey takes some getting use too:)
 
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sicmadek

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SYN used it In his last oil run it was PUP the older version with mos2 it did well for him but his motor makes no objectionable noises so who knows. I added 1/2 a bottle to my Castrol magnatec run I did after I figured out castrols cling technology was BS and ran it for several hundred more miles it didn't change the noise but it did add about .5 mpg to my around town average, I should of done the lugeguard like burla advised and I will next go around. The mos2 is nasty looking stuff and turns your oil a dark grey takes some getting use too:)

Why did you only use half a bottle? It says use 50ml per qt. 7 qts would mean add 350ml. The bottle ia only 300ml so i dumped the whole thing in.
 

RodRam

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I split it between the ram and my old Chevy Z 71 I wasn't planing on putting it in the ram as I was hoping the magnatec would live up to its hype of coating parts to prevent start up wear but it didn't. Like I said it's nasty looking stuff I really hesitated using it at all. After I dumped it we took the filter and started flushing it out with fresh oil and it was full of mos2 it just kept coming out so this was a wix Xp filter that is rated at the top of filters even above RP and Amsoil so maybe it traped a bunch being so good might want to run a filter that lets more thru so more of it stays circulating any way I only ran it about 300 miles and burla said his RL took 4 or 500 till it quited down so maybe it will help when run longer
 
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Burla

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I don't know what the mix is Raven on Redline, I just know the test data that proves it is way different then any other oil. You can see the ester based numbers effect pin and vee block, visc at 100, hths, noack, etc. Nothing beats Redline and it has proven a great oil with hemi tick. That is why I use it. I could care less about the name or brand, they just are commited to esters and it shows. I assume the remaining is hydro-cracked. I'm not worried about seals, but to each his own on that.
 
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