Synthetic Oil

[06 Dodge]

Gotta get the two tone man, a throw back to old landcruisers. They have a lot of choices, (black with white or visa versa) I like the white roofs and hood, to get this look vinyled on is 640 here locally, 320 roof and 320 hood.

View attachment 523653
View attachment 523654

Ummm NO

 

[EchoQuill]

Too bad it's not 10 years ago when this came out. Then we could try this on a ticker to see what it did.

You probably know this, but I'm going to say it anyway: POE is highly polar + beefy anti wear additive package, which is also highly polar (Red Line) - nothing less will do for a ticker.

 

[HEMIMANN]

You probably know this, but I'm going to say it anyway: POE is highly polar + beefy anti wear additive package, which is also highly polar (Red Line) - nothing less will do for a ticker.

Yup - I know that. We don't have user data that proves POE is a key factor in stopping ticking, I think - based on what I recall from the tick tester crew. But my short term memory is bad.

@Burla - if you have time to comment, please do so.

I'm pretty sure the additive package is critical to stop ticking.......heavy dose of antiwear additive that plates out on metal surfaces, specifically the lifter roller and needle bearings, and cam lobes.

I'm not sure if the type of antiwear additive matters, MoDTC (Moly) or ZDDP (Zinc phosphate), or both. We know for sure a heavy dose of both (Red Line) work. But would heavy Moly OR Zinc only work? Not sure. There is evidence heavy Moly only works when people have had success adding LubeGard (Moly only) to various base oils, but don't recall if this blend stopped ticks, or if only ticks didn't develop.

I am unsure if the surface clinging effect of the polar POE base oil matters much - i.e., whether an API Group V base oil is critical in tick extinguishing, or if Group IV (PAO) and III (Cat Cracked Hydrotreated Crude or GTL) work just as well as just a high quality additive carrier.

 

[Burla]

Yup - I know that. We don't have user data that proves POE is a key factor in stopping ticking, I think - based on what I recall from the tick tester crew. But my short term memory is bad.

@Burla - if you have time to comment, please do so.

I'm pretty sure the additive package is critical to stop ticking.......heavy dose of antiwear additive that plates out on metal surfaces, specifically the lifter roller and needle bearings, and cam lobes.

I'm not sure if the type of antiwear additive matters, MoDTC (Moly) or ZDDP (Zinc phosphate), or both. We know for sure a heavy dose of both (Red Line) work. But would heavy Moly OR Zinc only work? Not sure. There is evidence heavy Moly only works when people have had success adding LubeGard (Moly only) to various base oils, but don't recall if this blend stopped ticks, or if only ticks didn't develop.

I am unsure if the surface clinging effect of the polar POE base oil matters much - i.e., whether an API Group V base oil is critical in tick extinguishing, or if Group IV (PAO) and III (Cat Cracked Hydrotreated Crude or GTL) work just as well as just a high quality additive carrier.

Save your energy.

 

[Travis8352]

Yup - I know that. We don't have user data that proves POE is a key factor in stopping ticking, I think - based on what I recall from the tick tester crew. But my short term memory is bad.

@Burla - if you have time to comment, please do so.

I'm pretty sure the additive package is critical to stop ticking.......heavy dose of antiwear additive that plates out on metal surfaces, specifically the lifter roller and needle bearings, and cam lobes.

I'm not sure if the type of antiwear additive matters, MoDTC (Moly) or ZDDP (Zinc phosphate), or both. We know for sure a heavy dose of both (Red Line) work. But would heavy Moly OR Zinc only work? Not sure. There is evidence heavy Moly only works when people have had success adding LubeGard (Moly only) to various base oils, but don't recall if this blend stopped ticks, or if only ticks didn't develop.

I am unsure if the surface clinging effect of the polar POE base oil matters much - i.e., whether an API Group V base oil is critical in tick extinguishing, or if Group IV (PAO) and III (Cat Cracked Hydrotreated Crude or GTL) work just as well as just a high quality additive carrier.

I believe there was testing way early on in this thread on zinc additives in ticking hemis and it had no effect. Boron is a theory of mine that may help. Redline is high in boron, moly, POE, and ZDDP. Its got everything honestly. Mobil 1 FS is high in boron and ZDDP. Valvoline is high in moly but i dont know about boron and that was unsuccessful with @Hemi395. HPL has everything except boron in their formula.

 

[EchoQuill]

Yup - I know that. We don't have user data that proves POE is a key factor in stopping ticking, I think - based on what I recall from the tick tester crew. But my short term memory is bad.

@Burla - if you have time to comment, please do so.

I'm pretty sure the additive package is critical to stop ticking.......heavy dose of antiwear additive that plates out on metal surfaces, specifically the lifter roller and needle bearings, and cam lobes.

I'm not sure if the type of antiwear additive matters, MoDTC (Moly) or ZDDP (Zinc phosphate), or both. We know for sure a heavy dose of both (Red Line) work. But would heavy Moly OR Zinc only work? Not sure. There is evidence heavy Moly only works when people have had success adding LubeGard (Moly only) to various base oils, but don't recall if this blend stopped ticks, or if only ticks didn't develop.

I am unsure if the surface clinging effect of the polar POE base oil matters much - i.e., whether an API Group V base oil is critical in tick extinguishing, or if Group IV (PAO) and III (Cat Cracked Hydrotreated Crude or GTL) work just as well as just a high quality additive carrier.

I'm just making conversation. The more I look into lubes, the more I realize how little I know.

The reality is, at least to me, that whatever works, is fine by me.

I have yet to see how a tribo film or how ZDDP works outside of a YouTube video of a computer simulation. It's just a hobby for me.

Just my 0.02¢

 

[Burla]

So BITOG was the landing spot for that fool rod knock, they banned and deleted him, that was a first, dudes posts says deleted member, LMBO.

So speaking of rod knock, someone possed a question at BITOG, "prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock". So what would you do if you had rod knock as in a rod knock in your engine? I wonder how a thread would go if you asked can a lubrication strategy help with lifter tick or any issue centered around lubrication overthere. What is possible with high performance oils or additives? Can you prolong the life of an engine with a strategy? I guess it depends on the strategy and the condition. But, isnt all rod knock a result of widening tolerances? If that is the case, can't using an oil thickner prolong engine life? What say you?

​

 

[Burla]

@Travis8352 so we dont have to look it up, do you know the moly level on the m1fs - 0w40 and 5w30 the new formula? sorry for redunancy.

 

[Travis8352]

@Travis8352 so we dont have to look it up, do you know the moly level on the m1fs - 0w40 and 5w30 the new formula? sorry for redunancy.

No problem at all. Its around 70-80. Typical mobil 1 levels. The ilsac line actually has around 100 now

 

[tidefan1967]

So BITOG was the landing spot for that fool rod knock, they banned and deleted him, that was a first, dudes posts says deleted member, LMBO.

So speaking of rod knock, someone possed a question at BITOG, "prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock". So what would you do if you had rod knock as in a rod knock in your engine? I wonder how a thread would go if you asked can a lubrication strategy help with lifter tick or any issue centered around lubrication overthere. What is possible with high performance oils or additives? Can you prolong the life of an engine with a strategy? I guess it depends on the strategy and the condition. But, isnt all rod knock a result of widening tolerances? If that is the case, can't using an oil thickner prolong engine life? What say you?

​

I don’t think I would bother trying to prolong an engine that actually developed a rod knock(not the typical newer Hemi rod knock that we discuss around here)I would just rebuild it or replace it. Those thing’s always tend to crap out at the worst possible times.

 

[HEMIMANN]

So BITOG was the landing spot for that fool rod knock, they banned and deleted him, that was a first, dudes posts says deleted member, LMBO.

So speaking of rod knock, someone possed a question at BITOG, "prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock". So what would you do if you had rod knock as in a rod knock in your engine? I wonder how a thread would go if you asked can a lubrication strategy help with lifter tick or any issue centered around lubrication overthere. What is possible with high performance oils or additives? Can you prolong the life of an engine with a strategy? I guess it depends on the strategy and the condition. But, isnt all rod knock a result of widening tolerances? If that is the case, can't using an oil thickner prolong engine life? What say you?

​

My mechanical diesel knocks so I don't have to worry if a rod bearing is loose.

 

[Wild one]

So BITOG was the landing spot for that fool rod knock, they banned and deleted him, that was a first, dudes posts says deleted member, LMBO.

So speaking of rod knock, someone possed a question at BITOG, "prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock". So what would you do if you had rod knock as in a rod knock in your engine? I wonder how a thread would go if you asked can a lubrication strategy help with lifter tick or any issue centered around lubrication overthere. What is possible with high performance oils or additives? Can you prolong the life of an engine with a strategy? I guess it depends on the strategy and the condition. But, isnt all rod knock a result of widening tolerances? If that is the case, can't using an oil thickner prolong engine life? What say you?

​

In the majority of cases rod knock occurs because a rod bearing has spun,and then the oil feed holes are offset,and usually cut off the oil feed to the bearing.

 

[Travis8352]

So BITOG was the landing spot for that fool rod knock, they banned and deleted him, that was a first, dudes posts says deleted member, LMBO.

So speaking of rod knock, someone possed a question at BITOG, "prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock". So what would you do if you had rod knock as in a rod knock in your engine? I wonder how a thread would go if you asked can a lubrication strategy help with lifter tick or any issue centered around lubrication overthere. What is possible with high performance oils or additives? Can you prolong the life of an engine with a strategy? I guess it depends on the strategy and the condition. But, isnt all rod knock a result of widening tolerances? If that is the case, can't using an oil thickner prolong engine life? What say you?

​

There was a thread over there about this and i guess they only delete members when the member requests to be deleted. He requested to be deleted along with all of his posts but i guess you can still see his posts so i dont think they followed thru with deleting his posts

 

[Sherman Bird]

Before I start hunting and pecking in Blackstone UOA / VOA, did anybody get a recent analysis of additives in the new formula Mobil 1 FS series engine oils?

I think Travis said it's chocked full of ZDDP (zinc and phos), did it have any moly?

Since Red Line has BOTH lots of ZDDP and MoDTC, are we sure it is only the Moly antiwear additive that works to prevent and kill Hemi valve lifter tick?

i.e. - guys at LubeGard to low moly / low zinc oils and have reported tick kill / prevention. My question is - would adding only zinc also kill / prevent tick?


IF yes, then I would think the new formula Mobil 1 FS series is a new candidate for Hemi engines? Or did the Amsoil users experience say otherwise? i.e. - does the base oil play a big part (need substantial polyol ester in base oil to kill / prevent ticks also)?


P.S. - damn Blackstone sent me my Red Line 0W-30 UOA analysis, but hasn't released the cleaned report to their website yet! I suppose they can't get help just like every other workplace.

I wonder if I should get my blood labs done at Blackstone!!!

 

[HEMIMANN]

I wonder if I should get my blood labs done at Blackstone!!!

Not sure if they have optional tests for caffeine or blood pressure meds. Maybe Total Acid Number & Coffee Dilution?

 

[JHoward]

Well, this came with my sample kits on Monday. Read the right column, lol.

 

[Hemi395]

Well, this came with my sample kits Monday. Read the right column, lol.

One has to wonder what made them have to put those warnings on paper

 

[ramffml]

There was a thread over there about this and i guess they only delete members when the member requests to be deleted. He requested to be deleted along with all of his posts but i guess you can still see his posts so i dont think they followed thru with deleting his posts

What I don't get is his persistent bi-polar behaviour. It's obvious he likes to discuss this stuff , but then he'll lie and troll and do whatever it takes to p|ss members off.

Yes he's back on here again, spotted him a few pages back already but didn't want to ruin his fun. It's like he's not even trying to disguise his poor attempts at hiding his identity.

 

[Lufty]

Wanted to update on my Redline SP 0w-30 and Lubegard. I have 1000 miles on this run so far and every thing is very quiet. Maybe even quieter.
So in the name of science and my own curiosity I’m sending a VOA of Redline SP 0w-30 into Oil Analyzers. This is through/from my Amsoil account and I’ll post when I get results. I’ll drop off at UPS tomorrow. Thanks guys.

 

[Burla]

Wanted to update on my Redline SP 0w-30 and Lubegard. I have 1000 miles on this run so far and every thing is very quiet. Maybe even quieter.
So in the name of science and my own curiosity I’m sending a VOA of Redline SP 0w-30 into Oil Analyzers. This is through/from my Amsoil account and I’ll post when I get results. I’ll drop off at UPS tomorrow. Thanks guys. View attachment 523708

Was it noisy before you switched?