This isnt an oil thread, LOL! Quick Oil question though.

[jejb]

Sorry, but this thread makes me laugh. Not the input from members. But rather the title. Says it's "not an oil thread" and it is 100% an oil thread.

 

[BuschLatte420]

Remind me not to buy any of your used vehicles then,

You may never knowwwww. If the engine eats it’s self before 100k it’s the dealers problem.

 

[BuschLatte420]

Let's be frank, the manual is sometimes stupid. It also says the transmission fluid is "lifetime" when the actual manufacture (zf) says to change it every 90k miles or whatever the number is.

Engineering is always a compromise. Cost, quality, livability, there is no perfect answer for every choice. What we know is that thicker oil protects more, and thinner oil gives dubiously tiny incremental improvements in MPG. If you value every single penny of gas you put in, you'll lean towards 0w-20, but if you care about keeping your engine alive as long as possible then the better choice is 0/5w-30 or heck even a 40 weight runs just fine (I've done it for a summer).

I don’t care about fuel at all I bought a hemi with 3.92 gears and pump it up with 89. Never had a ram. Just noticed my friends 16 states 5w20 and mine states 0w20 which should be the same truck since mine is a classic? Dealer does the changes since they are actually a very good dealer, not sure if they would put the other oil in and keep my extended warranty in tact. Way I see it is these engines have been eating cam and lifters for a while now, so seems like a different oil is not a miracle engine saver.

 

[ramffml]

I don’t care about fuel at all I bought a hemi with 3.92 gears and pump it up with 89. Never had a ram. Just noticed my friends 16 states 5w20 and mine states 0w20 which should be the same truck since mine is a classic? Dealer does the changes since they are actually a very good dealer, not sure if they would put the other oil in and keep my extended warranty in tact. Way I see it is these engines have been eating cam and lifters for a while now, so seems like a different oil is not a miracle engine saver.

Agreed, there are lots of theories floating around, but one thing we can be certain about, a 5w-30 will protect more than a 5w-20 all else in the formula being as close to "the same" as possible. And running a higher quality formula can only improve our chances, regardless of what the actual problem is.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I don’t care about fuel at all I bought a hemi with 3.92 gears and pump it up with 89. Never had a ram. Just noticed my friends 16 states 5w20 and mine states 0w20 which should be the same truck since mine is a classic? Dealer does the changes since they are actually a very good dealer, not sure if they would put the other oil in and keep my extended warranty in tact. Way I see it is these engines have been eating cam and lifters for a while now, so seems like a different oil is not a miracle engine saver.

The Cliff's Notes version of my story:
I bought my 2014 used with 30k miles in 2018. It's been nowhere
but my dealer ever since. No tick, and no repairs except manifold bolts and a fuel sensor. Today I'm at 106,000.
I've asked for some specific information about the bulk oil they use and I can't get it. First I'm told "full synthetic", then "Pennzoil", then "Mopar oil". The only thing in common is "5w-20". I know they use a Mopar filter. Google and YouTube searches tell a pretty dismal story about Mopar filters.

So I finally recently did a UOA. My first ever. First thing I noticed about the oil coming out of the drain hole is the solid dark black color, 500 miles since the recent oil change.
Black as in BLACK. WTF?
Decades of doing my own oil changes at 5k to 10k intervals and I've never seen it this bad before.
UOA comes back and it really doesn't look good. Metal wear looks high, foreign particulates looks really high. Only the Moly looks good. I'll be flushing this out and using what I know to be exceptional oil and filter at around 1000 miles, probably within the month.

If you haven't I suggest doing your own UOA. I used to love my dealer too, unitl recently when I took a close look at the results.
I've looked around town and found a reputable shop that will charge a couple bucks for an oil change if I bring the oil and filter, so I will KNOW what is in the engine.

I can't afford a new camshaft, or new engine, or a new truck. I'm retired and plan to take this beast to the grave with me. Driving under 7000 miles per year I am optimistic. provided I do this right.
Best of luck, YMMV.

 

[BuschLatte420]

The Cliff's Notes version of my story:
I bought my 2014 used with 30k miles in 2018. It's been nowhere
but my dealer ever since. No tick, and no repairs except manifold bolts and a fuel sensor. Today I'm at 106,000.
I've asked for some specific information about the bulk oil they use and I can't get it. First I'm told "full synthetic", then "Pennzoil", then "Mopar oil". The only thing in common is "5w-20". I know they use a Mopar filter. Google and YouTube searches tell a pretty dismal story about Mopar filters.

So I finally recently did a UOA. My first ever. First thing I noticed about the oil coming out of the drain hole is the solid dark black color, 500 miles since the recent oil change.
Black as in BLACK. WTF?
Decades of doing my own oil changes at 5k to 10k intervals and I've never seen it this bad before.
UOA comes back and it really doesn't look good. Metal wear looks high, foreign particulates looks really high. Only the Moly looks good. I'll be flushing this out and using what I know to be exceptional oil and filter at around 1000 miles, probably within the month.

If you haven't I suggest doing your own UOA. I used to love my dealer too, unitl recently when I took a close look at the results.
I've looked around town and found a reputable shop that will charge a couple bucks for an oil change if I bring the oil and filter, so I will KNOW what is in the engine.

I can't afford a new camshaft, or new engine, or a new truck. I'm retired and plan to take this beast to the grave with me. Driving under 7000 miles per year I am optimistic. provided I do this right.
Best of luck, YMMV.

I will be going back on January third for my rear drive shaft that finally came in after 2 1/2 months, brand new truck came with a bad rear shaft from factory go figure. I will ask what kind they use, they advertise pennzoil.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I will be going back on January third for my rear drive shaft that finally came in after 2 1/2 months, brand new truck came with a bad rear shaft from factory go figure. I will ask what kind they use, they advertise pennzoil.

Yep, mine too. Now check Pennzoil's website. Count how many different types of Full Synthetic available from Pennzoil. Ask your dealer which they use. My dealer has not been able to tell me.

It seems to me (because I am new to all this) that PUP or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a preferred product after both v i r gin oil analysis (VOA) and used oil analysis (UOA).

Last week I watched a technician pick up a case of the PUP and a Mobil 1 oil filter from the parts department. I was told some folks order it specifically for use in their oil changes.
Why?
Because the dealer doesn't stock the good stuff as their bulk oil.


EDIT: https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils.html

The parts manager told me he ordered in bulk, "Pennzoil Synthetic Premium". I can't seem to find that on Pennzoil's site.
I was also told the part number for the oil used in my most recent oil change, that part number comes up as "Mopar Oil, 5w-20". I was told Mopar's oil is made by Pennzoil.
How many different stories will I hear?

 

[BuschLatte420]

Yep, mine too. Now check Pennzoil's website. Count how many different types of Full Synthetic available from Pennzoil. Ask your dealer which they use. My dealer has not been able to tell me.

It seems to me (because I am new to all this) that PUP or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a preferred product after both v i r gin oil analysis (VOA) and used oil analysis (UOA).

Last week I watched a technician pick up a case of the PUP and a Mobil 1 oil filter from the parts department. I was told some folks order it specifically for use in their oil changes.
Why?
Because the dealer doesn't stock the good stuff as their bulk oil.

The one I switched to has a tad higher price for oil changes so hopefully that’s for a good reason. The place I purchased my truck from is 100% trash. Last oil change there ended up with the idiot dumping almost a quart behind my engine / under the cover and left it to drip all over my drive way and steering / suspension. And they did a ****** job cleaning it up as well when I went back.

 

[mdc1990zr1]

The Cliff's Notes version of my story:
I bought my 2014 used with 30k miles in 2018. It's been nowhere
but my dealer ever since. No tick, and no repairs except manifold bolts and a fuel sensor. Today I'm at 106,000.
I've asked for some specific information about the bulk oil they use and I can't get it. First I'm told "full synthetic", then "Pennzoil", then "Mopar oil". The only thing in common is "5w-20". I know they use a Mopar filter. Google and YouTube searches tell a pretty dismal story about Mopar filters.

So I finally recently did a UOA. My first ever. First thing I noticed about the oil coming out of the drain hole is the solid dark black color, 500 miles since the recent oil change.
Black as in BLACK. WTF?
Decades of doing my own oil changes at 5k to 10k intervals and I've never seen it this bad before.
UOA comes back and it really doesn't look good. Metal wear looks high, foreign particulates looks really high. Only the Moly looks good. I'll be flushing this out and using what I know to be exceptional oil and filter at around 1000 miles, probably within the month.

If you haven't I suggest doing your own UOA. I used to love my dealer too, unitl recently when I took a close look at the results.
I've looked around town and found a reputable shop that will charge a couple bucks for an oil change if I bring the oil and filter, so I will KNOW what is in the engine.

I can't afford a new camshaft, or new engine, or a new truck. I'm retired and plan to take this beast to the grave with me. Driving under 7000 miles per year I am optimistic. provided I do this right.
Best of luck, YMMV.

Not for nothing, but if they can't/won't tell me what they're putting in, they're not doing my oil change.

 

[HEMIMANN]

The Cliff's Notes version of my story:
I bought my 2014 used with 30k miles in 2018. It's been nowhere
but my dealer ever since. No tick, and no repairs except manifold bolts and a fuel sensor. Today I'm at 106,000.
I've asked for some specific information about the bulk oil they use and I can't get it. First I'm told "full synthetic", then "Pennzoil", then "Mopar oil". The only thing in common is "5w-20". I know they use a Mopar filter. Google and YouTube searches tell a pretty dismal story about Mopar filters.

So I finally recently did a UOA. My first ever. First thing I noticed about the oil coming out of the drain hole is the solid dark black color, 500 miles since the recent oil change.
Black as in BLACK. WTF?
Decades of doing my own oil changes at 5k to 10k intervals and I've never seen it this bad before.
UOA comes back and it really doesn't look good. Metal wear looks high, foreign particulates looks really high. Only the Moly looks good. I'll be flushing this out and using what I know to be exceptional oil and filter at around 1000 miles, probably within the month.

If you haven't I suggest doing your own UOA. I used to love my dealer too, unitl recently when I took a close look at the results.
I've looked around town and found a reputable shop that will charge a couple bucks for an oil change if I bring the oil and filter, so I will KNOW what is in the engine.

I can't afford a new camshaft, or new engine, or a new truck. I'm retired and plan to take this beast to the grave with me. Driving under 7000 miles per year I am optimistic. provided I do this right.
Best of luck, YMMV.

I quit Dealer oil changes years ago when I was working beaucoup hours and didn't have time or energy to do myself during that time period with young kids.

I picked up the truck after my final Dealer oil change and checked the oil level to ensure the fools didn't over or under fill it. The oil on the dipstick was still dark!!! Those fuchers never changed it and charged me for it. The Service Manager came out and argued with me, and I stunned him with a new bottle of oil I carried in the truck and showed him the color difference. He stammered, then insulted me further by asking me what I wanted to do about it.

I point blank told him he just lost my business for life, drove away, and took the time to do it myself, dead a$$ tired and pi$$ed off. Been at it ever since.

 

[Curmudgeon]

@HEMIMANN - the even scarier version?
What other fluids have I paid to have changed/flushed but weren't done?
I've paid for brake fluid, and confirmed it looks good.
I've paid for coolant, and confirmed it looks good.
I've paid for front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and 8-speed transmission

As a shade tree mechanic and certified old fart I haven't confirmed that those 4 drive train fluids were done, and I doubt I would know if i looked. Well, the tranny I would most likely, but I haven't looked. Been fairly sick to my stomach lately.

This dealer has actually been really good to me on numerous occasions, in ways they didn't need to be. I'm a pretty good judge. I've had some sort of tool in my hands for over 60 years, and in customer service for over 50 years. I used to have a great feeling about the place but I'm rattled now and I don't like it.

I said earlier I've already located a reputable independent shop even closer to home. Met with owner and one tech, talked about my history and concerns, and we're going to do business. I already have 8 quarts of PUP 5w-20 in the garage, just waiting for a RP 20-820 filter to arrive and we'll get that questionable oil out and fresh, known-to-be-good oil/filter installed.

As of today the truck runs great, it's whisper quiet, everything is working as it is supposed to.

 

[HEMIMANN]

@HEMIMANN - the even scarier version?
What other fluids have I paid to have changed/flushed but weren't done?
I've paid for brake fluid, and confirmed it looks good.
I've paid for coolant, and confirmed it looks good.
I've paid for front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and 8-speed transmission

As a shade tree mechanic and certified old fart I haven't confirmed that those 4 drive train fluids were done, and I doubt I would know if i looked. Well, the tranny I would most likely, but I haven't looked. Been fairly sick to my stomach lately.

This dealer has actually been really good to me on numerous occasions, in ways they didn't need to be. I'm a pretty good judge. I've had some sort of tool in my hands for over 60 years, and in customer service for over 50 years. I used to have a great feeling about the place but I'm rattled now and I don't like it.

I said earlier I've already located a reputable independent shop even closer to home. Met with owner and one tech, talked about my history and concerns, and we're going to do business. I already have 8 quarts of PUP 5w-20 in the garage, just waiting for a RP 20-820 filter to arrive and we'll get that questionable oil out and fresh, known-to-be-good oil/filter installed.

As of today the truck runs great, it's whisper quiet, everything is working as it is supposed to.

The now retired Car Talk guys always recommended independent service shops, as does Consumer Reports. I quit going to Dealerships except for recall or warranty work. There are a number of superb independent shops in most areas unless you're really out in the sticks.

 

[dennisok]

If you really want technical questions on anything oil related the best place to go is the "REDACTED PER FORUM RULES". He provides great advise on anything oil related.

 

[danielmid]

If you really want technical questions on anything oil related the best place to go is the "REDACTED PER FORUM RULES". He provides great advise on anything oil related.

Oh man

 

[Curmudgeon]

If you really want technical questions on anything oil related the best place to go is the "REDACTED PER FORUM RULES". He provides great advise on anything oil related.

Uh, did you actually sign up just to tell us that?
Signed up at 01:31, posted at 01:38, logged off at 02:11?

dennisok​

Junior Member · 69 · From Denver
Joined Today at 1:31 AM Last seen Today at 2:11 AM

Anybody remember who was asking what a "robot" is, because I think I may have found one.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Why would we check that forum when this one already has all the answers we need, with UOA specific to our vehicles... lol...

 

[Gero]

Pup5w30 & wix xp and don't idle. I live in the northern climate and have not had any piston slap or anything related to that.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

(I dunno... this sure looks like another oil thread to me! Lol!)

 

[8_ball]

In my 2018 Hemi RAM says 0W20 so it is 0W20.

 

[Wild one]

In my 2018 Hemi RAM says 0W20 so it is 0W20.

Your 2018 should call for 5W-20,unless somebody changed the oil cap to the later 2022 oil cap