Up coming Mods and dyno question.

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Now the next question is are you going to stay NA or boost it?

If NA consider gears if the rear axle isn't 3.92.
The transmission tuning usually keeps torque off the launch at bay with the 8 speed unless you really mean business. Also if you're gonna take it to the strip consider swapping out the factory LSD for the truetrac. Clutch pack LSD's like factory aren't big fans of burnouts and launches. They tend to grenade when pushed hard enough.

Stock motor 5.7 headers and gears make a world of difference.
 
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As of now I just have the 3.21 in the rear. Besides the V6 fan and 180 thermostat I think the 3.92 are in the very near future. Yes, I plan on keeping NA
 

Wild one

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As of now I just have the 3.21 in the rear. Besides the V6 fan and 180 thermostat I think the 3.92 are in the very near future. Yes, I plan on keeping NA

Do a 3200 or 3600 convertor before the gears if you can only do 1 at a time.
 

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Do a 3200 or 3600 convertor before the gears if you can only do 1 at a time.

I've never driven with a higher stall converter.

In complete ignorance I understand how it works I'm more interested in what the experience is like.
 

Wild one

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I've never driven with a higher stall converter.

In complete ignorance I understand how it works I'm more interested in what the experience is like.

1 word "fun",lol. The 8 speeds convertor is a totally differant animal compared to an old school convertor,as it's lock up can be tuned in the lower gears,so it doesn't heat the traanny fluid like the old school convertors did.
 
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Do a 3200 or 3600 convertor before the gears if you can only do 1 at a time.
I wasn’t even thinking about a convertor. I have much to learn. Honestly this is my vehicle that I ever done anything with. All my other ride were bone stock. I will have to do some research since I know nothing about the converters.
 

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I wasn’t even thinking about a convertor. I have much to learn. Honestly this is my vehicle that I ever done anything with. All my other ride were bone stock. I will have to do some research since I know nothing about the converters.

The convertor will give you more then swapping to 3.92's will,and you'll still have the good milege numbers the 3.21's give you.
3.92's are only good for that initial launch in first gear,after the tranny makes the shift to 2nd with 3.92's,the 3.21's will start pulling the 3.92's,as they're still in 1st gear and have more torque multiplication. The convertor works in the lower gears,not just 1st gear.
The fast guys are running 4,000+ stall convertors with the 8 speeds,i wouldn't go quite that high,but a 3200 or 3600 will really wake the truck up,and is still mild enough to let the wife drive the truck on a daily basis,lol. The 1320 Challengers come through with a factory 2600 stall convertor,if you happen to stumble onto one of them for cheap,but it'd have to be cheap to make it worth while to install,as it's only about 800 rpm at most more then the stock convertor is
 
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RedSRT4Me

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The convertor will give you more then swapping to 3.92's will,and you'll still have the good milege numbers the 3.21's give you.
3.92's are only good for that initial launch in first gear,after the tranny makes the shift to 2nd with 3.92's,the 3.21's will start pulling the 3.92's,as they're still in 1st gear and have more torque multiplication. The convertor works in the lower gears,not just 1st gear.
The fast guys are running 4,000+ stall convertors with the 8 speeds,i wouldn't go quite that high,but a 3200 or 3600 will really wake the truck up,and is still mild enough to let the wife drive the truck on a daily basis,lol. The 1320 Challengers come through with a factory 2600 stall convertor,if you happen to stumble onto one of them for cheap,but it'd have to be cheap to make it worth while to install,as it's only about 800 rpm at most more then the stock convertor is

How would it effect offroading??
 

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How would it effect offroading??

Now that's a good question,lol. I'm not sure how it'd work under those circumstances,as i'm more a pavement style street guy.
If i was to hazard a guess ,the stock convertor would probably work better ,as it'd utilize the engines torque a little more,but that's only a guess,lol. I grew up on muddy gravel roads ,now that i'm older i hate cleaning them enough to keep my **** ass happy.So none of my toys go off pavement anymore.If the pavenment ends and it turns to gravel, i turn around,lol.It's bad enough when it takes me 2 or 3 hours at the carwash to clean up after a night at the track,lol
 

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Anything that is not asphalt or concrete located in Arizona.

I have been reading up on them for an upcoming Jeep build I have planned. Which would be much different than running a truck around desert roads. If you plan on playing on any of the rocky trails out there, some of same considerations may apply.

The below thread is of a Jeep build I am following. They have some discussions on stall speeds starting at post 10 and get back at it in post 20.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...7&share_fid=4267&share_type=t&link_source=app
 

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I have been reading up on them for an upcoming Jeep build I have planned. Which would be much different than running a truck around desert roads. If you plan on playing on any of the rocky trails out there, some of same considerations may apply.

The below thread is of a Jeep build I am following. They have some discussions on stall speeds starting at post 10 and get back at it in post 20.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...7&share_fid=4267&share_type=t&link_source=app

By the sounds of it,with a stock 5.7 cam and the stump pulling 4.71:1 first gear in the 8HP70 the stock convertor would probably be a pretty decent convertor for off road use.There is the factory high stall convertor from the 1320's which might be another excellent off road convertor.It stalls to roughly 2600 behind a 6.4,so probably would only stall to about 23/2400 behind a stock 5.7,which might make it a really good option to look at.But i'm only guessing,as my off roading experience ended 40 years ago when i left the farm and muddy gravel roads and ditches,lol
 

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I have been reading up on them for an upcoming Jeep build I have planned. Which would be much different than running a truck around desert roads. If you plan on playing on any of the rocky trails out there, some of same considerations may apply.

The below thread is of a Jeep build I am following. They have some discussions on stall speeds starting at post 10 and get back at it in post 20.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...7&share_fid=4267&share_type=t&link_source=app

Thank you. I'll take a look and get myself informed
 

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Thank you. I'll take a look and get myself informed
I have played around some in the Parker, AZ area. Most the trails I played on that would be ok for a truck to handle weren't that crazy. Some smaller rocks and hill climbs. I would think that you wouldn't need too high of a stall for that. You most likely won't be trying to climb boulders.

A buddy ran a pretty technical trail with me I'm his full sized chevy. He had a stock tranny and had no issues on the rock. He did have to throttle up a few of the stair climbs, but managed just fine.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

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I have played around some in the Parker, AZ area. Most the trails I played on that would be ok for a truck to handle weren't that crazy. Some smaller rocks and hill climbs. I would think that you wouldn't need too high of a stall for that. You most likely won't be trying to climb boulders.

A buddy ran a pretty technical trail with me I'm his full sized chevy. He had a stock tranny and had no issues on the rock. He did have to throttle up a few of the stair climbs, but managed just fine.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

I was thinking more on the con side for offroading. I was thinking of doing a 2600-2800 stall to match a full range Jay Greene cam upgrade. Could rering the stock pistons for boost then add the supercharger.

That link is excellent!! I love the quote intro the OP left.

"Never let someone tell you that you don t need more horsepower. Just stop talking to them, who needs that kind of negativity in their life?"

I can without a doubt say I 100% agree
 

Wild one

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I was thinking more on the con side for offroading. I was thinking of doing a 2600-2800 stall to match a full range Jay Greene cam upgrade. Could rering the stock pistons for boost then add the supercharger.

That link is excellent!! I love the quote intro the OP left.

"Never let someone tell you that you don t need more horsepower. Just stop talking to them, who needs that kind of negativity in their life?"

I can without a doubt say I 100% agree

Why would you boost a 5.7 to go play out in the back country,they are the most unreliable engine going when boosted.Price out a brand new SRT 6.4 non-mds engine first. They're under 8,000 Canuck,so should come in right around 7,000USD,they come with a 3 year warrenty,and will give you almost as much power as a boosted 5.7 will,and be reliable. Plus you can sell your original 5.7 and recoup some of your money. Not sure why guys seem to be hung up on boosting a little 5.7,they are about as unreliable as they come,especially if you're going to beat on the engine .
 

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Why would you boost a 5.7 to go play out in the back country,they are the most unreliable engine going when boosted.Price out a brand new SRT 6.4 non-mds engine first. They're under 8,000 Canuck,so should come in right around 7,000USD,they come with a 3 year warrenty,and will give you almost as much power as a boosted 5.7 will,and be reliable. Plus you can sell your original 5.7 and recoup some of your money. Not sure why guys seem to be hung up on boosting a little 5.7,they are about as unreliable as they come,especially if you're going to beat on the engine .

I would boost the engine simply because I like pushing things to the limit. The usual response would be cuz I can. :D

I plan my builds out years in advance so that I either can sell the stock parts or wear them out before upgrading to avoid significant monetary loss. The reason I doubt I'll swap for more cubes is because I'll end up with a turbo on it. But since I've never had any style supercharger yet I want to experience that as well.

I do a lot of never been before fabrication stuff. Anything I can't do personally I seek help from professionally. Still not welding yet.

Once I learned how to manipulate the trucks electronics I can make every mod work that much better.

Check out Richard Holden on YouTube. He has a couple stock motor 5.7's he took to 1000hp mark. All he did was re-ring the block.
 
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Wild one

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I would boost the engine simply because I like pushing things to the limit. The usual response would be cuz I can. :D

I plan my builds out years in advance so that I either can sell the stock parts or wear them out before upgrading to avoid significant monetary loss. The reason I doubt I'll swap for more cubes is because I'll end up with a turbo on it. But since I've never had any style supercharger yet I want to experience that as well.

I do a lot of never been before fabrication stuff. Anything I can't do personally I seek help from professionally. Still not welding yet.
Once I learned how to manipulate the trucks electronics I can make every mod work that much better.

Long walk back from nowhere if it scatters parts in the back country,lol.Personally i think you're nuts to try to build a reliable boosted 5.7,you're going to spend way more money then you can imagine. Matt Fikac admits to having over 60,000 into his boosted motor and tranny,and that's when he quit counting.Why not do a big cube 6.4 based BGE engine instead,you can build a totally reliable 422 or 426 BGE that'll make more power then you'll need,and will stretch your tranny to the limit.BTW what are planning on for a tranny and transfer case behind this toy. The high horse 4X4 guys are starting to go to the 8HP95 and transfer case out of the TrackHawk or the new TRX. Just because you can,doesn't mean you should especially as you seem to count your pennies pretty carefully,don't get all stubborn and stupid,step back and reconsider what you're doing,as i think you haven't thought this through as much as you probably should.It's your money do as you please,but i think you should consider other options to,as a boosted 5.7 isn't very reliable when you're slogging it through the sand with the skinny pedal buried through the floor,it's going to take a hell'va cooling system upgrade to even keep it cool in the back country.Yes i've seen Holdners turbo tests,but he'll be the first one telling you,they aren't a 100,000 mile reliable motor.Shane Roop has built close to 1100 horse with a turbo,motor ran good before it took out the cheaper forged pistons he had in it.I think you know Kurtis Holland /Charonblk007 on here,he's on his second super high dollar build,he was making just under 1100 horses,the motor was built using all top end components and set him back over 40,000,lasted all of 600 miles before taking out his expensive pistons,that's the 3rd expensive motor Kurtis has blown up in the last 5 years,the truck has only made 2,000 miles in that time period,lol.
 
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