Water damaged/Flooded, No power to most electronics

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Jake_

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Hey Y'all,

This is my first time posting in a forum so apologies for any mistakes with posting. Anyway, I've recently got a hold of a (basically free) 2011 Ram 1500 4.7 from a close friend, and as the title says, it's a flood truck. It was fully submerged for about 8 hours in freshwater during a local flood. and I acquired the truck about a month later. Mechanically, everything on the truck seems fine. The engine was never cranked after being flooded and I've done the necessary stuff, checks for hydro lock, fluid flush, spark plug removal, hand crank, remove water from cylinders, etc etc...

Now, onto the electronics. I've stripped out the interior, pulled the dash and dried, cleaned, removed any corrosion, and coated dielectric grease on nearly every connector under the dash, as well as all the main harness points under the truck/in the engine bay.

After a quick inspection, the TIPM/Fuse box had quite a bit of corrosion so I swapped it with a (confirmed to be working) TIPM from a same year, same spec ram. However, The truck still isn't getting any power, I am getting full volts to the main power cable on the fuse and a good portion of fuses are getting full volts with the key turned on. (I don't know which ones should or shouldn't be getting voltage). I am getting some volts to the ignition (I don't remember how much off the top of my head but it was low) but other than that the truck is completely dead. The ONLY functional electronic on the truck is the 4-Way Flashers/hazard lights. No door chime, no interior lights, gauge cluster flickers, horn, cigarette lighter, windows, nothing. I am also not able to remove the truck from park without pushing in the release button.

I'm not quite sure where to take it from this point. With most of my mechanical knowledge coming from 90's Ford Rangers and 70's Ford Highboys, my expertise is limited with this one. I see there is a computer on the passenger firewall that resembles a BCM/ECM, Could it be that? I don't suspect it as the connections were very dry and there didn't seem to be any water intrusions through its seals when I disassembled it to check for corrosion but perhaps the truck being underwater still caused it to short? Are there any fusible links from the TIPM to the rest of the truck I'm missing? Any other possible modules?

I'm not sure if this truck will be saveable but with it being low mile and completely rust-free (rare from where I'm from), and only cost me the price of the tow bill to get to my place I figure I should give it one shot at being on the road again before its parted or scrapped.

TIA for any advice you guys may have.
 

jws123

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it could be ALOT ot things did it really go all the way under any evidence like a water line ect? was there water in gauge cluster?. Off the top of my head did you check the 2 main fuses right off the battery terminal? If it got wet it for sure blew those and alot of other fuses.
 
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Jake_

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it could be ALOT ot things did it really go all the way under any evidence like a water line ect? was there water in gauge cluster?. Off the top of my head did you check the 2 main fuses right off the battery terminal? If it got wet it for sure blew those and alot of other fuses.
To my understanding water height was to at least the bottom of the windshield, there was residue and mud on dashboard/steering wheel but roof liner seemed untouched. Gauge cluster was wet, I had disassembled and dried along with everything else before putting back together.

I will check for those 2 main fuses in the morning, I didn’t see those on my initial inspection. Surprisingly none of fuses in the fuse box were visibly blown, just very corroded from the water. Those and all the relays were replaced when I swapped the TIPM.

Thanks,
 

SitKneelBend

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To my understanding water height was to at least the bottom of the windshield, there was residue and mud on dashboard/steering wheel but roof liner seemed untouched. Gauge cluster was wet, I had disassembled and dried along with everything else before putting back together.

I will check for those 2 main fuses in the morning, I didn’t see those on my initial inspection. Surprisingly none of fuses in the fuse box were visibly blown, just very corroded from the water. Those and all the relays were replaced when I swapped the TIPM.

Thanks,
@jws123 is referring to this part on the positive battery terminal...


I believe it is non-serviceable and replace only.
 

Daw14

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Find a wiring diagram to help figure what you are looking at. All grounds should probably be removed wire brushed ,sanded ,cleaned ,reassembled.
 

Scottly

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I encourage you to continue to fix what you CAN see, however, it's what you CAN'T see that may be your ultimate demise. Water causes shorts, shorts fry electronic components, and many of those components have no easy path to testing them. Good luck.
 

Mister Luck

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My neighbor flooded his Mercedes in a parking lot puddle by opening his door without checking the water level outside of it
It automatically rolled down all his windows and died.
His windows wouldn’t go beck up even after drying the vehicle out. Checked his battery voltage and it was 10 volts.
Replaced his batteries and as soon as the keys went into the ignition the widows went up

By flooding your truck you essentially completed every ground circuit thus draining the battery.
Check the battery voltage if not a deep cycle marine grade and it’s below 10.5 V you need to replace it.

Does it have the integrated uconnect system ?… that might be a problem that need replacing

(just a suggestion maybe you should correct the title of your thread because it still has the “no power to anything”)
 
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Wild one

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EdGs

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Dont forget, you have power window controls, door locks, seat wiring, etc.

Sounds like you've got a good jump on it. Wishing you a successful repair.
 

SitKneelBend

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If you are really getting into this I'd park a dehumidifier (safely within reason) in it with the doors closed as mush as possible and let it run until the tank stops filling up. I'd imagine water can hold on a long time in many of the modules on these. They can remove A LOT of water in a very short time, especially in a confined space.
 
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Jake_

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Thank you for all the replies everyone.

I understand there’s a good chance a lot, if not all, of the electrical in this truck may not be saveable but I figure with some time on my hands I might as well mess around with it. (I may even consider a 5.7 Swap just for a winter project if all else fails)

I have pulled door panels as well and cleaned and dried the connectors, I’ve also had a dehumidifier in the truck for a few days to help dry it.

I don’t seem to see the fusable link @jws123 and @SitKneelBend are talking about On the terminal cable but I plan to dive into the truck further.

With the few things that are getting volts I notice it is far less than what’s going into the TIPM (12.8 ish volts from the charger I have it hooked up too) so I’m going to start tracing wires from the TIPM and onward in search for possible shorts and what not

With that in mind would anyone know any good sources to find wiring diagrams for the 2011 4.7? I found one or two but they’re behind some subscription paywalls.

Once again I appreciate all the support and advice.
 

Wild one

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Thank you for all the replies everyone.

I understand there’s a good chance a lot, if not all, of the electrical in this truck may not be saveable but I figure with some time on my hands I might as well mess around with it. (I may even consider a 5.7 Swap just for a winter project if all else fails)

I have pulled door panels as well and cleaned and dried the connectors, I’ve also had a dehumidifier in the truck for a few days to help dry it.

I don’t seem to see the fusable link @jws123 and @SitKneelBend are talking about On the terminal cable but I plan to dive into the truck further.

With the few things that are getting volts I notice it is far less than what’s going into the TIPM (12.8 ish volts from the charger I have it hooked up too) so I’m going to start tracing wires from the TIPM and onward in search for possible shorts and what not

With that in mind would anyone know any good sources to find wiring diagrams for the 2011 4.7? I found one or two but they’re behind some subscription paywalls.

Once again I appreciate all the support and advice.
You could pick up a Chiltons or Haynes printed manual or get both,they're fairly cheap.




 

SitKneelBend

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Thank you for all the replies everyone.

I understand there’s a good chance a lot, if not all, of the electrical in this truck may not be saveable but I figure with some time on my hands I might as well mess around with it. (I may even consider a 5.7 Swap just for a winter project if all else fails)

I have pulled door panels as well and cleaned and dried the connectors, I’ve also had a dehumidifier in the truck for a few days to help dry it.

I don’t seem to see the fusable link @jws123 and @SitKneelBend are talking about On the terminal cable but I plan to dive into the truck further.

With the few things that are getting volts I notice it is far less than what’s going into the TIPM (12.8 ish volts from the charger I have it hooked up too) so I’m going to start tracing wires from the TIPM and onward in search for possible shorts and what not

With that in mind would anyone know any good sources to find wiring diagrams for the 2011 4.7? I found one or two but they’re behind some subscription paywalls.

Once again I appreciate all the support and advice.
This site will help you...

 

mtnrider

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Honestly your probably better off finding a wrecked donor truck and swapping everything over. There is a reason they don't repair flood vehicles, you will be chasing problems for ever. Even if you do get it running it won't stay that way for long before the next issue pops up.
 

jws123

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Honestly your probably better off finding a wrecked donor truck and swapping everything over. There is a reason they don't repair flood vehicles, you will be chasing problems for ever. Even if you do get it running it won't stay that way for long before the next issue pops up.
I have fixed tons of flood vehicles all of which still running great however once it gets deep enough to go into the guage cluster thats when i would throw in the towel personally lol at least its fresh water makes a HUGE diff if this was salt water forget it.
 

mtnrider

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I have fixed tons of flood vehicles all of which still running great however once it gets deep enough to go into the guage cluster thats when i would throw in the towel personally lol at least its fresh water makes a HUGE diff if this was salt water forget it.

He said he had water up to the windshield, so basically everything was submerged.....
 
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Jake_

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Honestly you’re probably better off finding a wrecked donor truck and swapping everything over. There is a reason they don't repair flood vehicles, you will be chasing problems for ever. Even if you do get it running it won't stay that way for long before the next issue pops up.
If I can’t get any life in the next few days of tinkering with it that’s probably the route I’ll take. There’s bound to be a good donor for a motor, harness, interior, computers, etc. There’s lots of smashed and Rotted frame Rams around me.

I’ll leave an update if I magically get any power or life back into it. Thanks again for the help everyone
 

Hootbro

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If you are a novice at electrical, trying to fix it through internet help from random strangers without their eyes on the actual vehicle in person is going to be a tough road.
 

Tominator223

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Rabbit hole. I would pop the ecm and check inside it . Change all main power cables. Hot & ground because copper corrodes. The ignition module as well. Because it was sitting a month . I had a flood vehicle in the 90’s , over the seats. Ecm was dry. I pulled it apart as soon as the water was down & cleaned it all. Got flooded twice. Drove it for 300k after floods. Without issue. A lot of the plugs & sensors are usually sealed pretty good. But the hot & ground cables are not sealed very well. I would change them 1st. & pop the ecm apart to see if water got in. & make sure all the grounds are cleaned as well. IMO you have to clean quick with flood vehicles. Good luck.
 

jawzs2

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With that in mind would anyone know any good sources to find wiring diagrams for the 2011 4.7? I found one or two but they’re behind some subscription paywalls.

This is the 2009 factory manual. I've used it on my 2010 and I haven't seen any differences, very view minor differences on my son's 2012. I'd wager 2011 is very similar. If the first link doesn't work, copy and paste the URL, it needs the space between service and manual

It takes some work to get it to open correctly. You'll need the IE tab option which is an extension you need to download and install from the Microsoft Edge add-on store. Once you install it, you'll see the "e" icon up in the address bar. Open default.htm with Edge, then choose the little "e" icon to display this page in an IE-based tab, an allow blocked content bar will pop up after you hit the enter button, allow blocked contact and it should open. It has all the service procedures and wiring schematics\diagrams.

2009 service manual

http://mcfail.net/dt/Service manual.zip

I think that's everything, it is a PIA to get it to work, once it does though it should have everything you need.
 
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