When to do first oil change on new truck and which oil to use.

[corneileous]

Well, we don’t have to follow that oil life meter, do we? I mean, you know whst I mean, along the lines of having it changed sooner, before that thing says so.

I thought I read somewhere a long time ago that said changing synthetic oil out too early was bad, almost kind of bad as how too much oil in the pan is as bad as not enough...

I dunno, my ex-father in law was kind of an extremist when it came to vehicles and taking care of them, that he even changed out the very expensive synthetic oil in his vehicles every 3,000 because he only drove less than three miles away one way of extreme city driving. Whether that was truly the right thing to do or not, I have no idea but I assure you that considering the way he is with cars, that he wouldn’t do anything to jeopardize the health of them.


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[69GWC]

The OLM is pretty much a joke imo, mine is basicly going to zero out about 9/10,000 miles the way is going at this time.
Now think of this the truck has no idea of what type of oil is in it or how long that oil is good for since it cant test the oil to find out what state its in.


I will be changing out my Redline around 7k, probably early for the oil but for me thats a long time on oil as I always did the 3/4,000 mile oil changes and breaking the habit is tough..lol
I do not think it will hurt anything to change it early but your wallet.

JMO

 

[corneileous]

The OLM is pretty much a joke imo, mine is basicly going to zero out about 9/10,000 miles the way is going at this time.
Now think of this the truck has no idea of what type of oil is in it or how long that oil is good for since it cant test the oil to find out what state its in.


I will be changing out my Redline around 7k, probably early for the oil but for me thats a long time on oil as I always did the 3/4,000 mile oil changes and breaking the habit is tough..lol
I do not think it will hurt anything to change it early but your wallet.

JMO

I have no idea how that oil life meter works and I’m not even going to attempt to use my own judgement because as I said, I have no idea. I don’t think it necessarily goes off mileage but I don’t know what it uses to determine the life of the oil so again, I won’t speculate.

Quite frankly I think you’re right that the only thing that changing out that expensive oil that early will hurt, is the funds in your bank account.

I dunno, maybe my ex father in law had more of a reason to follow such a strict and stringent maintenance schedule because at the time, both his and his wife’s daily drivers were over ten years old(this was in 2012).


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[mohemipar]

I have no idea how that oil life meter works and I’m not even going to attempt to use my own judgement because as I said, I have no idea. I don’t think it necessarily goes off mileage but I don’t know what it uses to determine the life of the oil so again, I won’t speculate.

I believe it does some calculating based on parameters like idle time, trip distance, RPMs, temperatures, even your driving habits. It is a pretty advanced system. Whether to trust it or not, can't tell you that.

6.4 HD is every 8,000 or 12 months. I would be more comfortable with 8,000 miles vs 10,000. However for most vehicles I've owned I almost never go above the mileage.. It's always the time.

SRT Hemi's call for every 6 months. Worth it though lol.

 

[chrisbh17]

I've been watching the olm in my 17 closely, because I've never had a vehicle with one before.

It's definitely not based solely on time or miles. After 10% used it was tracking for about 7500 mile oci. After 20% it was around 7000 miles, now at 25% used it's down to 6500 miles.

How it does it exactly, i don't know. As far as when I plan on changing the oil, since I drive so few miles a year I change my vehicles oil every 6 months regardless of miles. I short trip a lot so I'll only use synthetic...I know I could get more than 6 months out of it but it's so cheap after rebates i just suck it up deal with the cost.

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[Fergusontd]

I've been watching the olm in my 17 closely, because I've never had a vehicle with one before.

It's definitely not based solely on time or miles. After 10% used it was tracking for about 7500 mile oci. After 20% it was around 7000 miles, now at 25% used it's down to 6500 miles.

How it does it exactly, i don't know. As far as when I plan on changing the oil, since I drive so few miles a year I change my vehicles oil every 6 months regardless of miles. I short trip a lot so I'll only use synthetic...I know I could get more than 6 months out of it but it's so cheap after rebates i just suck it up deal with the cost.

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I change the oil in my 3.6L every 6000. Oil change warning will still turn on at about 9000 mi. intervals. I just ignore it and reset it. I just watch the mileage and change when I this k its time.

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[Burla]

Cornelious you were smart to get the lifetime warranty, I don't think future trucks will be as good as these for a long time. Now be smart and do what the manufacturer says and if the light doesn't come on change it around 7500-8k miles. Then make sure they clear the oil change monitor. good day sir

 

[chrisbh17]

I change the oil in my 3.6L every 6000. Oil change warning will still turn on at about 9000 mi. intervals. I just ignore it and reset it. I just watch the mileage and change when I this k its time.

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If I drove what is considered average miles per year (10-12K), I would change every 6K as well.

I actually only drive about 6K PER YEAR, and I dont like leaving the same oil in there for a year regardless of if its synthetic, unicorn tears, etc. So I change every 6 months, to coincide with the beginning of extreme weather (i.e. right before winter and right before summer)

 

[Hipps2000]

This sums it up best.

“The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.”

 

[corneileous]

This sums it up best.

“The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.”

So uh, not trying to be a smart ass but uh, how do you explain that if low and behold something happens and they say pretty much that the “wrong” oil was used and no engine for you?

I not trying to degregate from what’s probably truly better, just trying to abide as to not forfeit my warranty or engage in a legal battle in the future.


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[grizzstang]

^^^ It is the risk you take if you don't drink the Kool-Aid.

 

[corneileous]

^^^ It is the risk you take if you don't drink the Kool-Aid.

Well, call it whatever you want man but when one pays a fairly large amount of money for lifetime warranty coverage of them footing the bill for whatever repairs that may come up, you kinda have no choice unless you just have a “screw it” kind of attitude and feel pretty confident in your abilities and your luck to take them on, be my guest.

Like I said long time ago, vehicles these days ARE NOT CHEAP. Motors aren’t cheap. Transmissions aren’t cheap. All that electronics crap that runs that **** ain’t cheap. Disassembling most of the vehicle just to get to one part, isn’t cheap. Mechanics aren’t cheap. Training mechanics ain’t cheap. Shops and all them modern, fancy-ass tools ain’t cheap. Of course the manufacturers aren’t gonna be so lenient anymore.


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[chrisbh17]

So uh, not trying to be a smart ass but uh, how do you explain that if low and behold something happens and they say pretty much that the “wrong” oil was used and no engine for you?

I not trying to degregate from what’s probably truly better, just trying to abide as to not forfeit my warranty or engage in a legal battle in the future.


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As someone looking hard at MaxCare Lifetime, I agree with what you are asking. I preferred to use 5W-30 myself, but if Im going to risk my warranty I might not.

On the flip side, it would be pretty tough for them to determine what oil you used in the engine. Since oil "shears" eventually, if you started with a "light" viscosity 30 weight, its possible it would shear down to 20 weight anyway (20 weight being what the manufacturer specs).

The weight of an oil is rated based on a range of viscosity, so you could have a 30 weight at the high end of the range or a 30 weight at the low end of the range. Same applies for 20 weight too.

If I end up with MaxCare, it will probably preclude me from doing any of my own oil changes. Ill let the dealer change the oil, keep the records, etc and if anything went wrong Ill just point back at them for the maintenance.

 

[Hipps2000]

Not for your application because you are dealer servicing and are concerned with lifetime warranty. But for the many of us who choose to run 5w-30

 

[grizzstang]

Well, call it whatever you want man but when one pays a fairly large amount of money for lifetime warranty coverage of them footing the bill for whatever repairs that may come up, you kinda have no choice unless you just have a “screw it” kind of attitude and feel pretty confident in your abilities and your luck to take them on, be my guest.

Like I said long time ago, vehicles these days ARE NOT CHEAP. Motors aren’t cheap. Transmissions aren’t cheap. All that electronics crap that runs that **** ain’t cheap. Disassembling most of the vehicle just to get to one part, isn’t cheap. Mechanics aren’t cheap. Training mechanics ain’t cheap. Shops and all them modern, fancy-ass tools ain’t cheap. Of course the manufacturers aren’t gonna be so lenient anymore.


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All of which I understand but as we discussed in another thread any maintenance handled by the owner can put you at odds with your warranty. The manufacturer and the dealers want you to go to the dealer to handle all of your maintenance needs so they can make lots of money. Run what you want for oil. You don't sound comfortable with switching to 5W30 so don't. You asked we answered, don't shoot the messenger.

 

[corneileous]

All of which I understand but as we discussed in another thread any maintenance handled by the owner can put you at odds with your warranty. The manufacturer and the dealers want you to go to the dealer to handle all of your maintenance needs so they can make lots of money. Run what you want for oil. You don't sound comfortable with switching to 5W30 so don't. You asked we answered, don't shoot the messenger.

Well, it’s not like that, it’s just that once I realized that using a brand and different weight of oil might not all the sudden be a very good idea, I don’t think that was being totally and completely understood.

I appreciate the info and maybe the people that aren’t worried about warranties can benefit from it.


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[Burla]

So uh, not trying to be a smart ass but uh, how do you explain that if low and behold something happens and they say pretty much that the “wrong” oil was used and no engine for you?

I not trying to degregate from what’s probably truly better, just trying to abide as to not forfeit my warranty or engage in a legal battle in the future.


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Hipps was quoting the white paper from the link. I believe when we are talking about hemi's, that is exactly correct.

 

[Nutshell]

My owners manual states I CAN run 5-30 in my 2015 5.7 if 5-20 is not available. I run 5-30 QSUD and a Fram Ultra filter. Why 5-30? Cause I sleep better at night I guess. There is not one bit of provable evidence that can show 5-30 will perform any better (or worse) than 5-20. Don't over think it. A quality 5-20 synthetic with a synthetic filter and your good to go...and your warranty backs you up.

Enjoy the truck.

 

[corneileous]

That must be something on the older trucks then but in my manual, the only place it says it’s ok to substitute the 5-20 for 5-30 is on the trucks with the V-6’s.


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[corneileous]

Alright, sorry to reopen this conversation but I’m a little confused about letting the dealership do my oil changes. They sound about as competent as hiring Larry, Moe and Curly to remodel your house.

I called my local dealer to ask basically their “opinion” about the first, initial oil change and they said that it doesn’t need to be treated any differently from any of the other future oil changes. That was a little strange hearing that since I have been around engine building a time or two but ok whatever, I wasn’t there when they put this motor together so I don’t know. I called another dealership that said the factory puts in Dino-bone oil and that when they (the dealership) talk you into putting synthetic in, this dude said that the “Mopar” oil they put in which is full synthetic, is made by Pennzoil and that it’s a 0w-20 oil. I said that doesn’t sound right considering the filler cap says 5w-20 on it, or I just don’t know how to decipher engine oils but then the guy argued with me saying that the 5w-20 isn’t full synthetic anyways...lol. He said if you want full synthetic, you have to run the 0w-20. I said well, I guess Mobil 1 is lying to me because this...

...is what I’ve been using for a very, very long time.

What do I do? I only want the best for my truck, people. Lol. I know I have a lifetime warranty for as long as I own the truck but damn, I really don’t want to have to use it. But dang, I’m really not liking the idea of taking my truck to the dealer for my oil changes. Lol.


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