08 Ram 1500 Hemi will lock-up when in reverse in 2wd

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DMoneyAllstar

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Started having an issue this winter with my '08 Ram 1500 4-dr 4x4 Hemi Laramie truck. I've had -0- issues with this ride as original owner and I'm at 65,000 miles. NW Ohio climate, but this winter has been brutal. I don't tow much (landscape trailer with ATVs) and don't plow with it, so its light use daily commute and occasional hauling really.

When in reverse in a parking lot, out of my garage, etc when I'm in 2wd and in reverse, after about 40-50 feet something in the trans or rear-end will tie up and the truck will abruptly stop. I can roll forward a bit and try reverse again, but it will lock up in the exact same spot. But if I stop and put it in 4wd High, it will free up and no problems. Its not making any noises, there are no leaks, no CELs. I haven't yet had my trans, transfer case, or axles flushed and filled.

Is this just something related to cold weather? Or a larger issue?

Any help would be great. I love this truck. Period. Out of warranty and pretty handy int he shop.


Many thanks,

Dan
 

MegaMouseGW

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Take your truck to the dealership and have it gone over. Sounds like something going out to me.
 

Redtruck-VA

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Welcome to the forum, that really is odd. Can you drive forward to the spot you started and reverse again to see if it stops at the same spot or is it a random spot? Strange there is no associated noise. Could it be a wheel or is it definitely in the drive train?
 
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DMoneyAllstar

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Definitely not a wheel. No noises whatsoever.

When it happens, it feels likes its geartrain whether its in the trans or in the pumpkin; its got a resisting "bounce" to it if you know what I mean. If I give it a little gas, its like the rear wheels are locked at the diff and the tires will skid in the snow. I can drive forward and back again and it will lock in the exact same spot. In my mind, I can't figure out what would spool up or "accumulate" to cause it to lock up after turning quite a few revolutions. Weird, I know and HENCE why I'm on here! lol

It doesn't seem to be the same "distance" per say. It will happen 40' out of the pole barn, or 300' at the end of the driveway. It happened again at the end of the driveway this morning and I thought I friggin' ran into something...that's how abrupt it will stop the truck. Stops and will not reverse.

Then when I put it in 4WH, it goes away and I can reverse like nothing's wrong. Since 4wH will make it go away, I'm wondering if its transfer case related (?).
 

Redtruck-VA

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Definitely not a wheel. No noises whatsoever.

When it happens, it feels likes its geartrain whether its in the trans or in the pumpkin; its got a resisting "bounce" to it if you know what I mean. If I give it a little gas, its like the rear wheels are locked at the diff and the tires will skid in the snow. I can drive forward and back again and it will lock in the exact same spot. In my mind, I can't figure out what would spool up or "accumulate" to cause it to lock up after turning quite a few revolutions. Weird, I know and HENCE why I'm on here! lol

It doesn't seem to be the same "distance" per say. It will happen 40' out of the pole barn, or 300' at the end of the driveway. It happened again at the end of the driveway this morning and I thought I friggin' ran into something...that's how abrupt it will stop the truck. Stops and will not reverse.

Then when I put it in 4WH, it goes away and I can reverse like nothing's wrong. Since 4wH will make it go away, I'm wondering if its transfer case related (?).

I understand the "bounce" you describe. This would also make me feel it is in the trans/transfer, but you could also be picking up debris in the differential causing it to jam. If it was me I would first pull the differential cover and see if there is any debris. Good luck...
 

NYCruiser

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I'd try getting the truck up in the air and running it at idle in reverse until it locks.
See if you can hear anything from underneath while it happens, and hope it actually happens in the air.
Then maybe drop the driveshaft from diff to see if the diff or something forward of it is locked.
 
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DMoneyAllstar

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Thanks guys!

I think I'm gonna' put in on the big jack stands and run it until it stops, get out, and inspect. If its at the diff, I'll pull the cover and see what I can find. If its in the transmission, this truck is gettin' traded in! LOL I'd lose less trading it in than I would by spending on a trans overhaul.

Actually, I might just take it to the quick lube to get the diff, trans, and transfer case flushed & filled and see if there's any parts in the fluid.

Again, thanks for he help. I'll post my results eventually.
 
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DMoneyAllstar

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mrfyram1500

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I've got the same issue. Mechanic told me to try to loosen the e-brake cable. Found it can be a PITA to change out these drum brakes. Someone else having this issue on another forum as well.
 
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DMoneyAllstar

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Thanks MRF.

If the e-brake pads are the issue, I'm just going to ditch the e-brake pads completely IMMEDIATELY until the new ones get here. I live in NW Ohio where the only hills we have are overpasses! LOL I think the only time I ever even use my e-brake is when I've got the front end up on the jack.
 
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DMoneyAllstar

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YEP....the e-brake pads were the issue, driver-side. The e-brake drum brake pad on the rear-facing side of the assembly had completely de-laminated from the steel shoe. It was sliding free in there and would occasionally wedge itself UNDER the lower half of the other (front-facing) shoe pad. Hence, it could only catch when it reverse, and, would catch at some random point in time. ANd when I'd put it in 4WH, I think the front axle had enough umpf to overcome the e-brake drum pad that was hanging up.

- 1st pic: front shoe coming apart from the bottom up.
- 2nd pic: look ma, no hands! The rear-side shoe was completely free.
- 3rd pic: what I believe was happening when in reverse, and locking the ebrake.
- 4th pic: you can see exactly where that drum pad had been wearing...nice and shiny!

Who knows...maybe at some point in time I drove around with the e-brake on and "stuck" a pad to the drum and it ripped it off. No freakin' idea.

For the time being, I just tore all of the driver side e-brake shoes, springs, pins, etc. I'll order replacements and install when they get here. Checked the passenger side and they look great.

Installed new rotors and pads since these have 67k on them, one of the rear pads was coming apart, and the rotors were corroding on the OD pretty bad. Then I snapped the first caliper slide pin bolt when I got excited and started tightening stuff down. Meh! Rear caliper slide pins are only 22 ft-lbs torque!!!! I was cranking on it before I looked at the torque specs. Derrr! Will get a new pin in the morning at AZ.
 

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DMoneyAllstar

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Here's all the driver-side e-brake parts...
 

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DMoneyAllstar

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Autozone has the pins on hold for me for morning pick-up. $3.29 a pair for rear slide pins (p/n H5093). =) I'd get them now, but its a total whiteout snowstorm right now.

Thanks all! Hope this helps someone else int he future!!

-Dan A.
 

iSlacker816

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Glad ya got it figured out man! That's alot cheaper than a tranny or rear end!
 

mrfyram1500

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Wait...also found this on another Dodge forum and REALLLLY hope this is my issue:

Wheels lock up after a few feet in reverse? - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums

Gonna check this AS SOON AS I GET HOME TONIGHT!! Would not surprise me if this was it, as the rear pads & rotors are still the same from 19000 miles. What's nice is that I've got a set of rear discs and pads sitting at home.

I've got a set of rear discs and pads sitting at home. Too bad they're for my wife's caravan! Haha
Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for posting pics! I'm going to tackle my soon...if the weather ever changes from crap to less crap!
 

stars80

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This is exactly what happened to me. Thanks for the info. My problem now is I want to replace the PBrake assembly but can't figure out how to get the hub off so I can get at all the springs and the rest of the park brake assembly parts. My center hub looks like yours with the center being cover and only a big slot in it. How does it come off?
 

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05daytona

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I had the exact same problem this past summer. The E-Brake decided to grenade itself. Beat the hell out of the backing plate and made minced meat out of all the hardware.
 

xb1230

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... My problem now is I want to replace the PBrake assembly but can't figure out how to get the hub off... ...How does it come off?

Open the diff cover, remove clip from axle shaft at the Center assembly and pull the HUB/shaft out.

That being said, unless you need or want to change the dust shield, no need to remove the HUB to remove/repalce all of the e-brake assembly parts. Everything is accessible and should be easily undone. I have done so when I got the truck as everything had just fallen completely apart and as I did not need the e-brake I just yanked everything out of there as it was putting restriction on the drivetrain. I will be doing the rear brakes soon with new rotors/pad and ebrake shoes and hardware. :superhack:
 

stars80

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Yes I could probably take it all apart with the hub on, but the difficultly lies when you try to put it back together. Stretching the springs out and getting the clips on will be difficult. I'm not sure if it is just a cap on the end of the hub or not. It looks like its one piece so not sure how to get it off. It doesn't look like the typical cap on the end.
 
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