Led headlights for 2016 Rebel w/ oem projectors??

[iam_canadian22]

Is there any place in Canada that sells these? I see they make them in the 9012 bulb for my low beam projector lense in my 2015.

Not sure, i ordered from trs.

 

[Ram Night]

On 2015+ Rams? The issue I'm having is with the fact that my Rebel is a 2016 and the canbus is a *****. It requires a lot more to get led and HID kits to function correctly.

I think I might just throw in 9011 HIR1 bulbs in the highs and lows for now. See what comes out over the next year or two when there are a lot more of 2015+ Rams on the road. More options should open up imo.

The Retrofit Source sells a complete Morimoto HID kit for out new projector lights that work great. Go with the 35 watt 5500K kit. And what ever you do, do not install LEDS in the low beams. They will not work very good. They are bright, but you will not see as far as oem. But HR sells a great Supernova V-3 led that works great in the high beams.

 

[schul788]

I see Diode Dynamics is coming out with a new LED, the SL1. They are claiming some good things. I asked Jeremy at Retroshop what he thinks and he said he just dropped a Ram off at Diode to see how they compare to HID.

 

[blackbetty14]

Just get the 15+ harness from TRS. It’s the same as the harness you had on the 14 but they run dual 7.5 ohm 40 watt resistors for each headlight. I now run two of the harnesses on my 18 Laramie and they work great. Basically the same install as the old harnesses, crazy to think each harness cost $100. Basically a 9006 harness with two packs of dual relays and a capacitor.

I prob could have used my harness I ran on my 14 but TRS wouldn’t sell the packs of dual resistors which are a different ohm and watt rating.

 

[Ram Night]

Actually on the oem projector headlights you don't have to drill a hole in the dust cap for hid's at least

This is not correct. You will have to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the dust cover to install the water proof wire boot and wires to connect to the igniter and ballast. Here is one of my covers when I installed my HID kit.

 

[Sir John]

I actually ended up going with the Diode Dynamics HID kit for the Ram oem projectors. I bought the anti-flicker modules. I've been running them almost a year now without any issues at all.

 

[quietpeen]

This is not correct. You will have to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the dust cover to install the water proof wire boot and wires to connect to the igniter and ballast. Here is one of my covers when I installed my HID kit.

View attachment 116800

No it is true. You do not need to drill a hole and install the wire boot. You can just route the wires between the light and the dust cover. You just can’t crank the bolts down so tight that is crushes/pinches the wires. And I have had mine installed like this over a year now with no issues.

 

[Ram Night]

I see Diode Dynamics is coming out with a new LED, the SL1. They are claiming some good things. I asked Jeremy at Retroshop what he thinks and he said he just dropped a Ram off at Diode to see how they compare to HID.

No it is true. You do not need to drill a hole and install the wire boot. You can just route the wires between the light and the dust cover. You just can’t crank the bolts down so tight that is crushes/pinches the wires. And I have had mine installed like this over a year now with no issues.

Sounds like a good idea, but I like to do things the correct way.

 

[blackbetty14]

Sounds like a good idea, but I like to do things the correct way.

Just bc you do it and they give u the grommets doesn’t make it the correct way. How would you now run the stock headlight wire connector out to hook into a morimoto relay kit? I have 3 sets of wires sticking out the bottom of my cover, D2S to amp adapters for FXR HIDs, stock halogen headlight low beam pigtail (connects to morimoto relay harness), and highbeam splitter to activate solenoids on MH1 7.0 retrofitted fogs. How would u get all that out of your grommet?

Jeremy, the guy who literally does this for a living doesn’t drill holes in the cover like you. I personally think it looks like a hack. Why drill a massive hole in the back cover when you run it out the bottom and slap the cover over it? I did it this way but knotched our the headlight lip so it doesn’t pinch the wires when I tighten the cover. Almost impossible to get water up it either way and it still seals to an extend. 3 years and still going strong. Everyone has there own way, neither is correct.

 

[Dmopar74]

The ddm canbus + kit works flawlessly iny 2016 and I was able to fit the whole kit whithin the headlight, no holes, no extra wiring, no harnesses

 

[JB1]

No it is true. You do not need to drill a hole and install the wire boot. You can just route the wires between the light and the dust cover. You just can’t crank the bolts down so tight that is crushes/pinches the wires. And I have had mine installed like this over a year now with no issues.

Just bc you do it and they give u the grommets doesn’t make it the correct way. How would you now run the stock headlight wire connector out to hook into a morimoto relay kit? I have 3 sets of wires sticking out the bottom of my cover, D2S to amp adapters for FXR HIDs, stock halogen headlight low beam pigtail (connects to morimoto relay harness), and highbeam splitter to activate solenoids on MH1 7.0 retrofitted fogs. How would u get all that out of your grommet?

Jeremy, the guy who literally does this for a living doesn’t drill holes in the cover like you. I personally think it looks like a hack. Why drill a massive hole in the back cover when you run it out the bottom and slap the cover over it? I did it this way but knotched our the headlight lip so it doesn’t pinch the wires when I tighten the cover. Almost impossible to get water up it either way and it still seals to an extend. 3 years and still going strong. Everyone has there own way, neither is correct.

could you post a pic of this wiring exit, I'm having a hard time visualizing how that works (seals out moisture w/o pinching wiring)

 

[Ram Night]

Just bc you do it and they give u the grommets doesn’t make it the correct way. How would you now run the stock headlight wire connector out to hook into a morimoto relay kit? I have 3 sets of wires sticking out the bottom of my cover, D2S to amp adapters for FXR HIDs, stock halogen headlight low beam pigtail (connects to morimoto relay harness), and highbeam splitter to activate solenoids on MH1 7.0 retrofitted fogs. How would u get all that out of your grommet?

Jeremy, the guy who literally does this for a living doesn’t drill holes in the cover like you. I personally think it looks like a hack. Why drill a massive hole in the back cover when you run it out the bottom and slap the cover over it? I did it this way but knotched our the headlight lip so it doesn’t pinch the wires when I tighten the cover. Almost impossible to get water up it either way and it still seals to an extend. 3 years and still going strong. Everyone has there own way, neither is correct.

Well, I am glad you are happy with your install. That is all that matters. But of you look at the photo of the back cover, two of the wires go to the Morimoto relay harness from the stock connector, and the other two wires go from the igniter to the HID bulb.
And when I installed the in the high beams I used another boot. This way I am not breaking the seal on the cover to let moisture in.

 

[bigcheez]

Getting ready to do the trs hid upgrade in my ram and was wondering if any of you guys that have installed the hid's have had any issue with static/interference to your radio when they are on.And, if so do you have any solutions. I've had them on previous superduty's and have always had crappy reception when the lights are on.

 

[blackbetty14]

could you post a pic of this wiring exit, I'm having a hard time visualizing how that works (seals out moisture w/o pinching wiring)

I don’t sorry. There is a raised lip on the headlight, the cover sits on that raised lip and a thin foam gasket pinched against it to seal. If you knotch out the raised lip you can fit the wires easily. As long as you cut the lip to only what’s needed the wire will slip into the cutout and the gasket will seal into the wiring. It’s not 100% waterproof unless you add some silicone which isn’t a big deal. But the water would have to come up 90 degrees (basically fight gravity) and wiggle it’s way through the wiring into the housing.

 

[blackbetty14]

Well, I am glad you are happy with your install. That is all that matters. But of you look at the photo of the back cover, two of the wires go to the Morimoto relay harness from the stock connector, and the other two wires go from the igniter to the HID bulb.
And when I installed the in the high beams I used another boot. This way I am not breaking the seal on the cover to let moisture in.

View attachment 116831

So you drilled two holes and used 2 grommets. Basically creating 2 leak points. I understand they seal well and you probably used silicone to sea them but I’m not a fan of modifying the headlights that much. You could never convert back to stock or you would have to find replacement covers. I don’t disagree with what you did, it’s a clean easy way of doing it, but it can’t be undone. My brother an I did the same thing on his 2015 Denali 1500 as yours and it worked fine, but it would be my last option.

 

[blackbetty14]

I don’t sorry. There is a raised lip on the headlight, the cover sits on that raised lip and a thin foam gasket pinched against it to seal. If you knotch out the raised lip you can fit the wires easily. As long as you cut the lip to only what’s needed the wire will slip into the cutout and the gasket will seal into the wiring. It’s not 100% waterproof unless you add some silicone which isn’t a big deal. But the water would have to come up 90 degrees (basically fight gravity) and wiggle it’s way through the wiring into the housing.

Getting ready to do the trs hid upgrade in my ram and was wondering if any of you guys that have installed the hid's have had any issue with static/interference to your radio when they are on.And, if so do you have any solutions. I've had them on previous superduty's and have always had crappy reception when the lights are on.

Never got any noise with the headlights. I got alittle noise on ignition and during warm up on my 14 with HIDs in the fogs when I turned them on. I would hear it on the radio alittle but once warmup was done the noise was gone, u had to pay attention to hear it faintly through the radio.

 

[JB1]

Ok I

I don’t sorry. There is a raised lip on the headlight, the cover sits on that raised lip and a thin foam gasket pinched against it to seal. If you knotch out the raised lip you can fit the wires easily. As long as you cut the lip to only what’s needed the wire will slip into the cutout and the gasket will seal into the wiring. It’s not 100% waterproof unless you add some silicone which isn’t a big deal. But the water would have to come up 90 degrees (basically fight gravity) and wiggle it’s way through the wiring into the housing.

Ok thanks I understand now. I have an HID kit to install and really didn’t want to drill that 1” hole.

 

[Sir John]

Just bc you do it and they give u the grommets doesn’t make it the correct way. How would you now run the stock headlight wire connector out to hook into a morimoto relay kit? I have 3 sets of wires sticking out the bottom of my cover, D2S to amp adapters for FXR HIDs, stock halogen headlight low beam pigtail (connects to morimoto relay harness), and highbeam splitter to activate solenoids on MH1 7.0 retrofitted fogs. How would u get all that out of your grommet?

Jeremy, the guy who literally does this for a living doesn’t drill holes in the cover like you. I personally think it looks like a hack. Why drill a massive hole in the back cover when you run it out the bottom and slap the cover over it? I did it this way but knotched our the headlight lip so it doesn’t pinch the wires when I tighten the cover. Almost impossible to get water up it either way and it still seals to an extend. 3 years and still going strong. Everyone has there own way, neither is correct.

On my 14 Sport, I did the notched/put the cover over the wires way and it was good for a couple yrs....I did get some moisture in the headlight from time to time. I had to take them out and use a hairdryer to dry them out. On my 16 Rebel, I used the grommet for my HID kit....drilled a hole in the cover. I have a couple of water tight solutions to use if I wanted to ever remove the HID kit, so I was ok with drilling the holes. I've had the HID kit on the Rebel for a year now without ever getting condensation....I never went that long with the 14 Sport. Could just be a coincidence.

 

[JB1]

Can you buy a new cover if you mess that up or want to change it back?

 

[Purplert]

The less drilling/cutting and notching etc the better chance of keeping water out and being able to reverse it back to stock if you get rid of the truck is a plus.


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