Towing a Travel trailer

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Shannone634

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We have a 2017 1500 V8 5.7L with an axel ratio of 3.21. We’ve been getting the run around about towing travel trailers. So much differing advice from multiple communities, neighbors and TT dealers. I’ve used a tow calculator on google but continue to exceed payload capacity by 1-4%. Dealers us a different calculation and insist we have more than enough room to pull a ~6K trailer. We understand we will need equalizer hitch and sway bars but we’re just informed that nearly any trailer we try to tow will give us trouble and pull the truck around. Our RAM also has cool suspension versus leaf so we’re at a loss. Buying a larger truck is out of the question as we just purchased this truck last month...before we learned so much about towing.
 

rule18

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Welcome to RamForum. You could start by following this link, and input your truck's VIN using the Look Up My Vehicle link: https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing-guide.html . You'll get the weight ratings/limitations for YOUR vehicle, no guesswork. There are many knowledgeable, experienced members here to help you navigate the wide wide world of TT towing.
 

Jughed

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6k trailer is the dry weight. No water, no gear, no propane, no food - and sometimes they leave the AC out of that equation. So the reality is 7800#+/-.

Check your tires - can't be P rated at those loads.

Then add passengers, fire wood...

Some will argue - but IMHO 24' is max for a 1500, especially with the 3.21
 

Travelin Ram

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Use the information in your owners manual and the weight sticker on the door jamb.

Don’t take advice from people whose motivation is to sell you something.

As it sounds like you’re inexperienced at towing, the only advice I’ll give is don’t use 100% of your truck’s capacity. That will make it less pleasant to tow, and is generally not an ideal situation for novice operators.

No doubt there are others here with trucks very similar to yours who can give you the specifics of what they tow, and how it performs. Good luck, you are doing the smart thing to educate yourself before buying a trailer.
 

dhay13

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If you aren't going far and are on fairly flat ground you should be ok as long as you are under your limits. I think with a 7500lb TT you will be close to your limits. Yes, don't go by dry weight. My sons dry weight is listed as 6600lbs and we weighed it at 8100lbs but it did have some stuff in it but all tanks were empty. I towed it 200 miles with my 2013 1500 3.55's and it did ok but I'm very experienced at towing. The tow capacity on that truck was 8600 and the payload was about 1300. I was probably right at payload max when I towed it. Tongue weight was about 1100lbs. when we scaled it about 2 months ago but it was brand new and empty the day I towed it so maybe closer to 1000lbs.

Your need to figure your payload. That is on the yellow sticker on your drivers door jamb. Depending on options it should be between about 1100 and 1400ish. With 1000lbs of tongue weight and the family in the truck you will likely be over.

6000lbs dry weight will probably give you about 7000-7500lbs actual weight so about 900-1000lbs tongue weight.

And yes, salesman know very little about towing and capacities.

Find the GVWR of the TT because that would be the max you should ever see. Be sure that is under your max tow capacity. Figure about 13-15% for tongue weight then subtract that from your available payload. Add in the family and anything else you will have in the truck and stay under that payload. Like I said above, it makes a difference if you are towing hundreds of miles or just a short trip. Won't make an illegal load legal but might make an uncomfortable tow manageable
 
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tron67j

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Your first step is find the payload capacity of your truck. Not enough information in your post above, but you are somewhere between 1450 and 1600, so let's say 1500 to be safe. First, subtract for occupants say 350 pounds two people. Then about 250 pounds gasoline. Then 250 for hitch, tools and other odds and ends. This leaves you with 750 pounds max for trailer tongue weight. Average 15% allows you a maximum loaded trailer weight of 5,000 pounds. This is simplified and runs a couple assumptions but I would think I am fairly close to your numbers. Others may say they tow so much more and never had a problem, but physics will always win at some point given the chance. It is your rig, you decide how you go but we all have a responsibility to others on the road to be safe and follow common sense. You can find some rely great trailers in your weight class that will be comfortable, nice looking, roomy, and not work your truck too much. Get a good weight distribution hitch, verify load at a CAT scale fully loaded, and enjoy camping. I pulled my sister's little rPod this summer with my 6.4 2500, and had as much fun as if I had much more trailer. Maximize the use of outdoor space and you don't need a 35 foot trailer, and you fit in more camping spaces which, trust me, you will appreciate now that do many more people are camping. Good luck and let us know what you end up with!
 

JohnnyMac

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Welcome to the forum. Make sure you check in with a couple pics of your rig in the "Introduction" forum area so we all get to know you.

IRT a TT, you might start by renting travel trailers (using RVshare or Outdoorsy type of sites) for your first few trips just to get a feel for size so you know what you're comfortable with. Start with a small one and work up. It'll also give you an idea of quality and features you might be looking for.
 

dhay13

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Best bet to start with is go to a CAT scale and load the truck up like you would on a trip. Load up the family and throw whatever in it that you would probably take with you. Then take your GVWR and subtract your CAT scale weight and that is how much you would have left for tongue weight.

Here is what a typical CAT scale ticket looks like. This was my sons TT with his 2018 2500 6.4 towing it. Earlier I said his TT was about 8100lbs but that is because this ticket shows his 1100lb tongue weight transferred to his truck so put that 1100lbs back onto the TT and you get the 8100lbs. He has a 2018 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK. His truck empty (no people in it either) weighs about 7200lbs with a full tank of gas

Blaise_weigh_slip.png
Blaise_truck_and_camper.jpg
 

Loudram

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Like others have said figure out your weight capacities. Your payload should be on that sicker. That's for your truck. It includes everything from the factory and all fluids full including gas. You'll hear about 150lbs for the driver but that's only for tow ratings not payload. Payload is where you will run out of room first.

Tongue weight should be between 10% and 15% of the trailers loaded (wet) weight. 12% is ideal. When you see a trailer's tongue weight listed, it's always a dry tongue weight. Add 100lbs for a battery (60) and propane (2x20). Empty tanks are included in the listed tongue weight. That's the STARTING tongue weight. Then you add on your stuff.

As for payload, everything you add to the truck takes away from the payload. An example is my truck didn't come with a receiver so I added it and that comes off my payload as does my bed liner, step bars, and tonneau cover. I started with a 1500lb payload but it gets eaten up fast. To help lower your payload put as much stuff in your trailer as you can. Be mindful of your trailers cargo capacity and store the stuff over the axles. To much in front and it really increases your tongue weight. To much in the back and the trailer might sway.

With trailer weight, we pack light and we have 1000lbs of stuff in our trailer. We're 6500lbs dry and 7500lbs loaded. The tongue is 1100lbs. We're right at 14%

The Equalizer is a great choice. Anti sway with weight distribution. That's the only brand I use and many others in here use them to.

I'm sure I left out a thousand things but I hope this helps a little.

Sent from my LG-V60 using Tapatalk.
 

JayLeonard

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IMG_2032.JPG I also have a 2017 2 wd Ram Bighorn CC with a hemi and 3.21 gears. I am pulling a 6600 lb (dry) and 600 lb tongue weight. Using a 10K Equilizer WD hitch. I also have "Sumo springs" installed.
I have NOT weighed my rig yet, however I have towed it several times already including a lot here in "flat" Florida but also one trip to eastern Tennessee and back.
It does ok. I get some movement when passed on the interstate by the big rigs, but no continuous sway. No white knuckle situations as of yet.
I spend a lot of time in 5th and 6th gear, some 4th climbing hills, esp. if I let the cruise control run the truck. 62/63 mph seems to be pretty much the max for comfort driving. I'm seeing 9 to 10 mpg at that.
I did upgrade the rear tires from the GYs to Cooper discoverer HT plus which is a heavier load rating and a 50 psi tire.
I do need to get to a scale soon to see where I'm at. I'm guessing I'm pretty maxed out, but i really don't want to change trucks as I like what I have for a daily driver.
So there's some compaprison.
 

tron67j

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If using your payload sticker to find base weight...full fuel is included.

You do not have to compensate for fuel. It is already calculated.

So essentially as you use fuel you gain payload
I don't want to be providing incorrect information, and my methods may be old so asking for clarification. I look at GVWR as total for truck with people, gas, gear, hitch (I always include WDH in this number to be safe) and tongue weight. In Ram charts the calculation is GVWR = Payload + Total Base Weight. Ram information is very confusing, using Base Weight in charts but then using the term Curb Weight (which is defined as devoid of fuel, people, etc.) in towing literature. I cannot prove they are the same thing through Ram, but Jeep literature directly links both terms as the same value. Since both are FCA I interpret their intent to be that Base Weight in Ram is not inclusive of fuel, people, etc. However, if Ram has something available that differentiates it's calculations from Jeep I would appreciate the link. I have searched and found nothing.
 

392DevilDog

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I don't want to be providing incorrect information, and my methods may be old so asking for clarification. I look at GVWR as total for truck with people, gas, gear, hitch (I always include WDH in this number to be safe) and tongue weight. In Ram charts the calculation is GVWR = Payload + Total Base Weight. Ram information is very confusing, using Base Weight in charts but then using the term Curb Weight (which is defined as devoid of fuel, people, etc.) in towing literature. I cannot prove they are the same thing through Ram, but Jeep literature directly links both terms as the same value. Since both are FCA I interpret their intent to be that Base Weight in Ram is not inclusive of fuel, people, etc. However, if Ram has something available that differentiates it's calculations from Jeep I would appreciate the link. I have searched and found nothing.
I believe base and curb are the same word.

In the terms of payload. GVWR minus base weight equals payload.

Base weight is the truck...with full fluids.

Passengers, cargo, accessory add ons are all considered payload.

Screenshot_20201118-114142~2.png
 

tron67j

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So I learned something new today. Cool beans. After looking at the information above that was provided, thank you, and also speaking with fca, I have learned a couple things. First, FCA has no idea why the terms curb weight and base weight are used in different places and cannot verify that they are either the same or different. Second, that the payload value does not have to include the weight of fuel, oil, windshield washing solutions.

My new suggestion is for best data, go to www.ramtrucks.com/towing-guide.html and enter your VIN to get your exact maximum payload. This is based on options at time of build and includes fuel and other fluids, so anything dealer or owner added subtracts from the total, can't help you there.

So my number in my prior post is off, there would be 1,000 pounds in my scenario for max tongue weight, which equates to a maximum trailer of about 6,500 pounds fully loaded.

Thanks 392DevilDog and Loudram for making me think and get more informed.
 

392DevilDog

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Ok. So reading that. Base weight is an empty truck with full fluids and curb weight means the same.

This is what I thought. But wasnt sure.


I do know all calculations are determined with a empty truck with full fluids.

The English language and how it is used is so fun.
 

GsRAM

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You have gotten a lot of good advice in this thread.

Without getting into the weeds with this (because others already have for you)

With your truck, I suggest you look at trailers 30' or less, overall length (ball to bumper) and 7,000 lb GVWR (not dry weight) and under for a decent tow.

Exceeding those parameters, length or weight with your truck would really be pushing the limits and not a good idea in my opinion.

Don't listen to RV salesman, they will tell you that you can pull just about anything to make a sale.

Use a good WDH and brake control, hopefully you have the factory itbc. Good luck.
 
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6k trailer is the dry weight. No water, no gear, no propane, no food - and sometimes they leave the AC out of that equation. So the reality is 7800#+/-.

Check your tires - can't be P rated at those loads.

Then add passengers, fire wood...

Some will argue - but IMHO 24' is max for a 1500, especially with the 3.21

I have a 1500 EcoD and I agree completely with the above poster. While others may say they tow more, some as high as 7500 to 8000#, I do not believe that to be safe or comfortable to drive. I run E load range and tow 6000# loaded and it is at the limit of what the truck can safely handle. One improvement, other than the E tires, that helped greatly was 1000# air bags in the coils. Not to increase cargo capacity, but to stop the truck from being squirmy under load. Coil springs are not the best option for loaded trucks.
You can buy the trailer first and then buy the truck needed to tow it or you can buy the truck first and then buy the trailer it can tow. The OP seems to be in the latter category.

Some quick math. 7500# loaded trailer is ~1125# tongue weight for starters. Add in passengers, gear in bed, and any other extras and you can see where this is going.
Canyon
 

dhay13

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I have a 1500 EcoD and I agree completely with the above poster. While others may say they tow more, some as high as 7500 to 8000#, I do not believe that to be safe or comfortable to drive. I run E load range and tow 6000# loaded and it is at the limit of what the truck can safely handle. One improvement, other than the E tires, that helped greatly was 1000# air bags in the coils. Not to increase cargo capacity, but to stop the truck from being squirmy under load. Coil springs are not the best option for loaded trucks.
You can buy the trailer first and then buy the truck needed to tow it or you can buy the truck first and then buy the trailer it can tow. The OP seems to be in the latter category.

Some quick math. 7500# loaded trailer is ~1125# tongue weight for starters. Add in passengers, gear in bed, and any other extras and you can see where this is going.
Canyon
Yep. Real world numbers my sons TT weighed in at about 8100lbs and he had about 110lbs tongue weight.

You have to remember that the TT shows 7060lbs but that does not include the tongue weight that was transferred to the truck. The truck was at about 8100lbs. He has a 2018 2500 6.4 that weighs about 7200lbs empty.

Blaise_weigh_slip.png
 

Willie Mosher

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It best to look at light trailer,
If just two of you, 18 ~21 feet is good size, if kid you have maybe need little
Biggest, if trun your 1500 in for 2500
For $2000 or 3000 this is good deal,
But if not if it a 2WD get some 3.92 or
4.10 gears for $1500 ~$2000,
This will have like tow ratings of about
10.000 lbs


we tow about 8000 miles year,
We live South West ( BIG HILL Country )
Tow about 4500 load 18 feet two axle
Trailer. Have been doing this since 2002,
Little trailer is EZ tow your more likely
To use more offer

the biggest the trailer the big the problem
 
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