Cool, thanks! I've got the 48mm FIC 650s.
BTW, aren't they awesome injectors?
BTW, aren't they awesome injectors?
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Remote 1 all you need to do is have a switched power source, all I did is use a toggle switch for mine. So every time before starting the truck I have to turn the switch on to kick on pump # 1. For remote 2 use a Hobbs switch, when your intake pressure hits around 4psi the switch will close and kick on your 2nd fuel pump. You will not use any wiring from the stock fuel pump system. Let me know if you need anything else, happy to help.Hey Josh, I'm assuming you took the power wire going to the stock pump and ran it to 'Remote 1'? I'm waiting on one or two more fittings and will be doing this upgrade later in the week!
You are correct. The fuel pump is supplied constant B+ battery voltage and the PCM regulates the injector pulse width to maintain the commanded AFR.Gotcha, thanks. That surprises me a bit, thought the fuel pump pressure was regulared by the voltage sent to the pump, it must be a constant pressure system and just focus on injection duty cycle.
Yeah now with your new fuel system your pump(s) will be on @ 100% duty and your regulator will control the pressure. Make sure your regulator has a boost reference port.Gotcha, thanks. That surprises me a bit, thought the fuel pump pressure was regulared by the voltage sent to the pump, it must be a constant pressure system and just focus on injection duty cycle.
Yeah the reason you were having such an issue with the Fore fuel rails is because the rails were coming in contact with the plastic molding on the intake manifold. You would have needed fuel injector extensions(8x), this would make your 48mm injector into a 60mm injector and would clear the piece of plastic that the rail was hitting....ask me how I know...lol....Then you would have needed shims in between the fuel rail bolt tabs and the mounting holes on the intake manifold. Then take your factory fuel rail screws to Ace hardware and get 4x slightly longer ones.Well, finally finished my own install yesterday and am very pleased with the result, although now I need to update my tune!
Couple of things. As Josh points out in his excellent documentation the Fore fuel rails on the Drivers side need some serious tweaking to work correctly. When I called Fore they basically said I was out of luck getting spacers/configuration for the truck intake 5.7 manifold. The passenger side Fore rails worked fine, although the mounting tab is thicker than stock and messes with the attachment bolts, and no matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one. I really dislike having to use spacers and shim out a bunch, the further away the rails are from the manifold the less stable it is and I had visions of high pressure fuel spraying around the engine compartment. No matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one.
I gave up and got the Holley fuel rails. The biggest difference is aux port locations and the fore rails are much beefier, but not necessary. If you need to beat someone to death the fore rails are your choice. If you want easy to install rails that work, go Holley.
The Holley fuel rails are perfect. Ordered them through Jegs, part number 510-534-284, and they were cheaper. Very close to stock including the mounting tabs and zero fitment issues. They also retain the stock injector retainer clips which made me feel better.
Pics of Holley rails and stock.
I really like the Holley fuel rails. I have never had any issues with them. I also like the fact that you can retain the stock injector retaining clips to secure the injectors to the fuel rail.Well, finally finished my own install yesterday and am very pleased with the result, although now I need to update my tune!
Couple of things. As Josh points out in his excellent documentation the Fore fuel rails on the Drivers side need some serious tweaking to work correctly. When I called Fore they basically said I was out of luck getting spacers/configuration for the truck intake 5.7 manifold. The passenger side Fore rails worked fine, although the mounting tab is thicker than stock and messes with the attachment bolts, and no matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one. I really dislike having to use spacers and shim out a bunch, the further away the rails are from the manifold the less stable it is and I had visions of high pressure fuel spraying around the engine compartment. No matter what I did I could never get the drivers side to seal all of the injectors correctly especially the first one.
I gave up and got the Holley fuel rails. The biggest difference is aux port locations and the fore rails are much beefier, but not necessary. If you need to beat someone to death the fore rails are your choice. If you want easy to install rails that work, go Holley.
The Holley fuel rails are perfect. Ordered them through Jegs, part number 510-534-284, and they were cheaper. Very close to stock including the mounting tabs and zero fitment issues. They also retain the stock injector retainer clips which made me feel better.
Pics of Holley rails and stock.
Thanks for the information. That would be an added anti theft deterrent switching it like that. I got the FC3 Staged Controller with 4 gauge wiring, Sealed Delphi Connector, 7' 12 AWG pigtail & Honeywell Pressure Switch for FC3. I'm setting mine up to switched with the regular set up and using the pressure switch to operate the second pump when needed.One small thing to consider if you end up going with a fuel pump switch instead of using a switched source; get an inertia safety switch for safety.
Thanks!
# 8?