2014 Ram RC SWB 1500 4x4 Rebuild

MOPAR78 · Jul 9, 2022

I finally got a full day to work on the engine yesterday. I gapped the rings, installed the forged pistons and rods with upgraded coated bearings. I used an old piston to square the rings with the bore. I installed the phase limiter and Competition cam (with new bolt). I also removed the MDS, installed the plugs and reworked the harness.

MOPAR78 · Jul 11, 2022

I was able to get in another day yesterday. I got the bottom buttoned up, cam in, degreed (dead on), Hellcat oil pump, lifters, beehive springs and much more. 1 more day should do it (probably next Sunday).

MOPAR78 · Jul 15, 2022

Thanks for the help with some forum members, I believe I have a return fuel system for my set up! I
will run this by Fore Innovations prior to ordering to make sure it's correct. Fuel regulators are on back order so I still have time to make adjustments.

MOPAR78 · Jul 18, 2022

Well I got another day in on the build. I rotated the crank until I could see oil flowing from every rocker. What a mess but it was reassuring to see before notching the valve covers to install. I re-gapped the plugs to.026 for now and when she’s running, I’ll swap them out if needed if the tuner recommends what’s needed for my build. I also assembled the Whipple Charger and some accessories that came with the kit. 1 step closer!

Wild one · Jul 18, 2022

MOPAR78 said:
Well I got another day in on the build. I rotated the crank until I could see oil flowing from every rocker. What a mess but it was reassuring to see before notching the valve covers to install. I re-gapped the plugs to.026 for now and when she’s running, I’ll swap them out if needed if the tuner recommends what’s needed for my build. I also assembled the Whipple Charger and some accessories that came with the kit. 1 step closer!

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Ronald have you gave any thought to modding your valve covers for an external PCV system,while the engine is still out and easy to work on.

MOPAR78 · Jul 18, 2022

Wild one said:
Ronald have you gave any thought to modding your valve covers for an external PCV system,while the engine is still out and easy to work on.

No I have not, point me in the right direction (if you have some links) so I can research this if you don't mind. I know I need to look in to getting a catch can too, so I'll be researching on that. I'll search the site and see if I can get educated. Thanks!

Wild one · Jul 18, 2022

MOPAR78 said:
No I have not, point me in the right direction (if you have some links) so I can research this if you don't mind. I know I need to look in to getting a catch can too, so I'll be researching on that. I'll search the site and see if I can get educated. Thanks!

Ask on High Performance Rams on your thread there,as you'll find a few guys with tips for a boosted application. Tag Shane Roop over there,as he does the odd turbo build,and has pics of how he does the valve covers.I'm a nitrous guy so the stock PCV system works in my case,but on a boosted application you want more PCV capacity,especially with opened up ring gaps,as you'll have more blow by past the rings under boost

MOPAR78 · Jul 21, 2022

Wild one said:
Ask on High Performance Rams on your thread there,as you'll find a few guys with tips for a boosted application. Tag Shane Roop over there,as he does the odd turbo build,and has pics of how he does the valve covers.I'm a nitrous guy so the stock PCV system works in my case,but on a boosted application you want more PCV capacity,especially with opened up ring gaps,as you'll have more blow by past the rings under boost

I have it figured out, 2 catch cans ordered! Thanks for pointing this out!

MOPAR78 · Jul 25, 2022

Yesterday I assembeled the Whipple parts a step further on the engine while it was easier to get to. Also I prepped the transmission with a PPE pan, installed the block off/bypass and filled it as much as possible with fluid. I've ordered the Fore hoses & fittings (less the regulator) for the return fuel system. They where honest and said that my first layout was overkill and worked with me to fine tune it. Attached is the setup I'm going with.

Whipple retun fuel system -8 lines & -6 lines.1.jpg

MOPAR78 · Jul 26, 2022

I got some more stuff in the mail yesterday. The UPR breather with check valve will give a third way for the crank blow by to relieve pressure under WOT. The other items are not performance related, but I had to do it. LIL REX Tag and some Hell Kitten badges. I was surprised that I found the when I did a search. Couldn't help myself, had to have them.

MOPAR78 · Jul 28, 2022

A few more parts came in yesterday. The cans are the larger ones and have sites on them. This should make it more convenient to monitor and more time between dumping them. The Whipple kit directions have been less than perfect on installation. I had to confirm with them about the 90* 1/4" barbed x 1/8 male threaded fitting & hose that was never mentioned or in the kit. Yet magically it appears in some of the pictures on the installation instructions.

MOPAR78 · Jul 29, 2022

MMX Fuel pump kit and Fore Innovations parts came in yesterday - fuel regulator, on back order! Getting closer! I'm going to try and look under the hood and get a game plan for location, routing of the Fuel system and catch cans. That's if I have the time this week end. I am planning on swapping the transmission and transfer case first.

MOPAR78 · Aug 1, 2022

I modified the pit a bit to make it easier to do the transmission & transfer swap this weekend. I hope to get it complete next weekend. Only having 1 day a week to work on her is dragging it out longer than I want.

Wild one · Aug 1, 2022

MOPAR78 said:
I modified the pit a bit to make it easier to do the transmission & transfer swap this weekend. I hope to get it complete next weekend. Only having 1 day a week to work on her is dragging it out longer than I want.

View attachment 499310 View attachment 499311 View attachment 499312 View attachment 499313

If you're man handling the transmission and T-case by yourself,they're definitely easier to put up in place as 2 seperate pieces.Are you keeping the thermal management hooked up on the transmission Ronald,if not,nows the time to get rid of the coolant hoses. I swapped back to the earlier and simpler 5/6 speed molded heater hoses,and got rid of the hoses to the 3 way coolant valve on the passenger frame rail,i did leave the valve in place and hooked up electically,but with no coolant hoses hooked to it. You might be able to delete the valve totally,utilizing HP or maybe AlphaOBD,but i haven't looked that far into it,as i've been running the truck that way for awhile now,and it hasn't thrown any codes.

MOPAR78 · Aug 1, 2022

I'm going to separate the 2. Your right Rick, way too much to handle for an old boy like me! I'm planning on disconnecting the Thermo-unit so the transmission can clear it, the lines and reuse it. I'll reinstall the bypass kit back into it that I just installed into the replacement transmission. This looks like the easiest way to me. The swap is a pain to do, just taking my time with it to get it done right and safe! Thanks for the suggestion!

MOPAR78 · Aug 15, 2022

I finally got the transmission and transfer case install and road tested this weekend. Everything tested out fine. Rick, I've changed my mind and will be bypassing the thermal block as you previously mentioned. For now I have a hose tying them temporary together at the thermal block.

I found out #5 is at issue while I was clearing the codes on the engine. I sent Ryan the original files to the engine and transmission so that he can re-write the programming to my build.

I will start the engine swapping this coming weekend and if all goes well, have her running by Labor Day weekend. Fore Innovations finally got their regulators in and shipped to me Friday.

Trans & transfer install HP tune 8-14-22 2 4.jpg

Trans & transfer install HP tune 8-14-22 2 3.jpg

Trans & transfer install HP tune 8-14-22 2.jpg

Trans & transfer install HP tune 8-14-22.jpg

Trans & transfer install HP tune 8-14-22 1.jpg

Wild one · Aug 16, 2022

MOPAR78 said:
I finally got the transmission and transfer case install and road tested this weekend. Everything tested out fine. Rick, I've changed my mind and will be bypassing the thermal block as you previously mentioned. For now I have a hose tying them temporary together at the thermal block.

I found out #5 is at issue while I was clearing the codes on the engine. I sent Ryan the original files to the engine and transmission so that he can re-write the programming to my build.

I will start the engine swapping this coming weekend and if all goes well, have her running by Labor Day weekend. Fore Innovations finally got their regulators in and shipped to me Friday.

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When you have the engine out,you'll be able to tidy up the hoses and lines feeding coolant to the thermal heater Ronald. I'd reconmend one of Jesse's/Caulk04's thermostat bypasses,and then i'd look at plumbing in either the 145 or 165 version of these thermostats. The factory transmission thermostat doesn't open till roughly 185F,and even when open supposedly still doesn't allow full flow to the transmission cooler.Depending on where you live is what i'd consider when picking one of Improved Racings thermostats.If the truck will be operated in the deeper south,i'd go for the 145 version,if it'll see more northern temps,then i'd consider the 165 version.

https://www.improvedracing.com/high...toPLEV72aCuekSKD_3k-1r4_oczF-ZuZW3eHA3NlT5Iqw

MOPAR78 · Aug 16, 2022

You are talking about the factory transmission thermostat mounted on the side of the transmission correct Rick? If so I used the RevMax Bypass kit mentioned earlier. I went with option 3 which states;

Option Three "(Most Common): Install the warmer blocking plate and brass end plug upgrade and remove the thermostat. This will eliminate the rapid heating from the warming unit and then by also removing the thermostat you can expect up to a 50-70 degree drop in operating temperature. You will also have a 87% increase in cooler low by using this option as the restrictive thermostat is now removed and the maximum amount of cooler flow is now flowing"

I live in West Central Ga. area. When I took it for a test drive for about 20 minutes, the outside air was 82* and the Trans temp only went to 122*. I'm sure it will be higher on hotter days and at higher speeds.

The radiator lines are not hooked up at all. They are looped and will be removed later. They are not needed correct?

Or am I missing something here?

As always, thanks for your input and guidance!

Wild one · Aug 16, 2022

MOPAR78 said:
You are talking about the factory transmission thermostat mounted on the side of the transmission correct Rick? If so I used the RevMax Bypass kit mentioned earlier. I went with option 3 which states;

Option Three "(Most Common): Install the warmer blocking plate and brass end plug upgrade and remove the thermostat. This will eliminate the rapid heating from the warming unit and then by also removing the thermostat you can expect up to a 50-70 degree drop in operating temperature. You will also have a 87% increase in cooler low by using this option as the restrictive thermostat is now removed and the maximum amount of cooler flow is now flowing"

I live in West Central Ga. area. When I took it for a test drive for about 20 minutes, the outside air was 82* and the Trans temp only went to 122*. I'm sure it will be higher on hotter days and at higher speeds.

The radiator lines are not hooked up at all. They are looped and will be removed later. They are not needed correct?

Or am I missing something here?

As always, thanks for your input and guidance!

View attachment 500339 View attachment 500340

Yup,but i'd swap out all the heater hoses,back to the earlier simpler hose set-up,from a 6 speed truck. You must of missed Caulk04's thermostat bypass,it's simpler and better then the Rev Max kit by a long shot.Option 3 with the Rev Max kit is the only option that won't cook the transmission,both Khris /CrazyKid and i have pointed out to Rev Max the first 2 options should be removed from their site,but apparently they're deaf and can't read emails,lol.For less then $2.00 you can totally delete the aluminium heat exchanger off the side of the transmission,by plugging the 2 holes with the green O-rings around them.

If you read the next few pages,you'll see how Khris and i deleted the heat exchanger

RevMax 8 speed thermostat bypass

Took the wife out for supper tonight,we weren't in any rush and we were on 2 lane back roads,so i had the cruise set at 90 kmh's roughly 56mph,our favorite little eating joint is about 40 miles away,tranny just barely got over 110f in her car.

www.ramforum.com

MOPAR78 · Aug 19, 2022

That was a good read. It's got me thinking about tapping and getting rid of that T-stat block as well! Finally the day has come to start the engine swap this week end!

2014 Ram RC SWB 1500 4x4 Rebuild

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