RevMax 8 speed thermostat bypass

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Wild one

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Took the wife out for supper tonight,we weren't in any rush and we were on 2 lane back roads,so i had the cruise set at 90 kmh's roughly 56mph,our favorite little eating joint is about 40 miles away,tranny just barely got over 110f in her car.

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Wild one

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You were only going 56mph on that road?

I would be doing 150.. hahahaah

I ain't saying nothing,but my truck has seen 153mph on the Mexican version of those roads,lol. I'm in a good area,that's basically going east out my front door,turn around and go west and you get roads like this into the mountains.
Last night i was more interested in seeing where the cars 8 speed ran for temps,if i was babying it,basically driving it with an egg under the foot on the skinny pedal,to see if 130F is to cold for the 8 speed,by the looks of it,i think 130F might be closer to an ideal operating temp for it,as the car just barely got to 111F when i was babying it for 40 miles.

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crackerjack1957

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Nice pics........bet the view in person even better......LoL
 

18GSMRam

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So I got the RevMax kit.... I know I know, its 100 bucks but its a lot less work then drilling and tapping threads ect. Anyway I was under there today to get a start on it and there is another way to get rid of the entire heater if you wanted to that doesn't require tapping and using set screws.

The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV

I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages
 
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crazykid1994

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So I got the RevMax kit.... I know I know, its 100 bucks but its a lot less work then drilling and tapping threads ect. Anyway I was under there today to get a start on it and there is another way to get rid of the entire heater if you wanted to that doesn't require tapping and using set screws.

The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV

I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages
At that points it’s just as easy to leave the heater block and install the blocking plate with rtv.
 
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Wild one

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So I got the RevMax kit.... I know I know, its 100 bucks but its a lot less work then drilling and tapping threads ect. Anyway I was under there today to get a start on it and there is another way to get rid of the entire heater if you wanted to that doesn't require tapping and using set screws.

The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV

I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages

I looked at that option,but you'll never get it sealed with a 1/16" plate that big,so i didn't even mention it.I didn't want anybody to try it,and when it didn't work and they dumped all the tranny fluid on the ground and cooked their transmission,they'd then try to hold me responsible and basically blame me for it,lol. Why didn't you get ahold of Caulk and get one of his bypass plugs Matt,it's cheaper and simpler to install or remove if you do have to return the truck to stock. It also gives you a fancy brass plug to replace the factory plastic plug,if that was what you were after.
Rick
 
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Wild one

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Nice pics........bet the view in person even better......LoL

Google Saskatchewan CJ,i grew up in that province,and didn't even know the steering wheel turned till i left the province,i thought it was something you hung onto so you could shift your ass around on the seat after driving for 6 hours across it,lol.Province isn't all that much smaller then Texas with roughly a million people,lol. Best place in Canada to see how fast something would go for a 100 miles on end,lol.

Saskatchewan - Wikipedia
 

18GSMRam

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I looked at that option,but you'll never get it sealed with a 1/16" plate that big,so i didn't even mention it.I didn't want anybody to try it,and when it didn't work and they dumped all the tranny fluid on the ground and cooked their transmission,they'd then try to hold me responsible and basically blame me for it,lol. Why didn't you get ahold of Caulk and get one of his bypass plugs Matt,it's cheaper and simpler to install or remove if you do have to return the truck to stock. It also gives you a fancy brass plug to replace the factory plastic plug,if that was what you were after.
Rick

Ha well thats why I threw in the caveat :argue: Proceed at your own risk

I had already had the RevMax kit ordered and couldn't cancel it so I didn't want to bother with returning it and most likely being charged a restocking fee, pay for return shipping or both.
 
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Wild one

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Ha well thats why I threw in the caveat :argue: Proceed at your own risk

I had already had the RevMax kit ordered and couldn't cancel it so I didn't want to bother with returning it and most likely being charged a restocking fee, pay for return shipping or both.

If i was you,i wouldn't even have mentioned it,lol. :33:
 

18GSMRam

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If i was you,i wouldn't even have mentioned it,lol. :33:

I will mention this though, the transmission fluid that came out of the heater was dirty, really surprised at only 40K miles. Needless to say I will be changing the fluid pronto, was gonna wait till 60K but not anymore.
 

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I will mention this though, the transmission fluid that came out of the heater was dirty, really surprised at only 40K miles. Needless to say I will be changing the fluid pronto, was gonna wait till 60K but not anymore.

I changed mine at 30k and couldn't believe how dirty it already was. I plan to order another gallon of fluid and do another drain and fill soon.
 

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I ain't saying nothing,but my truck has seen 153mph on the Mexican version of those roads,lol. I'm in a good area,that's basically going east out my front door,turn around and go west and you get roads like this into the mountains.
Last night i was more interested in seeing where the cars 8 speed ran for temps,if i was babying it,basically driving it with an egg under the foot on the skinny pedal,to see if 130F is to cold for the 8 speed,by the looks of it,i think 130F might be closer to an ideal operating temp for it,as the car just barely got to 111F when i was babying it for 40 miles.

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That's ***** beautiful man.. Jealous.

The threaded holes that hold the heater onto the 3-way valve are thru holes, you can just use the existing bolts with the RevMax blocking plate and some RTV and seal up the 3-way without bolting back the heating. Cut and remove the heater and lines as needed and block the ports at the return to radiator and the thermostat housing. Only issue I could see is the plate isn't rigid (thick) enough to bolt down by itself and form a good seal with the RTV

I dont remember this being brought up in the 50+ pages

This idea crossed my mind while reading this thread but I thought maybe this system is a little to complex to do that. I haven't been under there yet, so couldn't give any input on it.

But I did something similar on my last car. There were coolant ports in the supercharger, well that just heated the supercharger plus intake temps. So JB welded them with dimes.
I aint the first person to do that, but it worked. lol
 
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Wild one

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Finally had a nice enough day to dig my truck out and see how this mod works. I did a couple back to back hard launches and ran the truck up to 100mph on the first pull and 110 on the sec pull,(no nitrous,just motor pulls),the hottest the tranny got to was 132F, as soon as i slowed back down to 75mph,the tranny dropped down to 128F and stayed there for the 25mile drive back home. Outdoor temp was 18C/ 65F,my truck is equipped with the PPE transmission pan,and a 160F thermostat. I never noticed any differance in coolant temps or oil temps ,but the majority of the rad shutters have been removed on my truck,and i run the free'r flowing honeycomb grill in my Sport. I've also converted my truck back to the earlier heater hose set-up,and bypassed the 3 way valve on the frame of my 14.Gotta admit i'm liking this mod even more now,i might even go back to a 170 or 180 t-stat ,still on the fence about that idea though,lol.
 

Rod Knock

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Finally had a nice enough day to dig my truck out and see how this mod works. I did a couple back to back hard launches and ran the truck up to 100mph on the first pull and 110 on the sec pull,(no nitrous,just motor pulls),the hottest the tranny got to was 132F, as soon as i slowed back down to 75mph,the tranny dropped down to 128F and stayed there for the 25mile drive back home. Outdoor temp was 18C/ 65F,my truck is equipped with the PPE transmission pan,and a 160F thermostat. I never noticed any differance in coolant temps or oil temps ,but the majority of the rad shutters have been removed on my truck,and i run the free'r flowing honeycomb grill in my Sport. I've also converted my truck back to the earlier heater hose set-up,and bypassed the 3 way valve on the frame of my 14.Gotta admit i'm liking this mod even more now,i might even go back to a 170 or 180 t-stat ,still on the fence about that idea though,lol.

What oil are you running in your truck? I just installed a 180F t-stat (Mishimoto) and removed 8 out of 12 shutters and now the oil won't get even up to 200F. I run 0W-40 M1 but I might go back to 5W-20 now that my temps are lower.
 

crazykid1994

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I like 5w30 myself. Was 38 psi idle and 51 psi cruising and generally around 200° oil temp. 190° tstat
 
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Wild one

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What oil are you running in your truck? I just installed a 180F t-stat (Mishimoto) and removed 8 out of 12 shutters and now the oil won't get even up to 200F. I run 0W-40 M1 but I might go back to 5W-20 now that my temps are lower.

I run 5W-30 Redline,my oil temps run in the 180/185 range.I'm not a fan of oil temps 200+,as i think that also leads to cam and lifter issues. My truck idles at 51/52 psi with dual remote filters and runs right around 56/57 psi at anything above 1500 rpm. Water evaporates even when it's frozen,lol.It's pretty well documented that 5W-30 has less cam and lifter issues then 5W-20,and it seems that the majority of 5.7's having cam and lifter issues are all running hotter oil and coolant temps from my observations.
 
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