2” or 2.5”

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Moparornocar0346

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What’s up guys. Ok I have some questions. Ok so I was in the market for some new tires and I bought me some 2857516 mud claw extreme mts. They look good little rub at full lock but. Been seacrhing for my next add on. Trying to decide whether to add a 2” or 2.5 leveling kit. Been looking at daystar leveling kits. Seen some good steel spacers for like 40 bucks on eBay. Which would
Look better 2” or 2.5? What else would I need longer shocks? Sway bar links? Drop pitman arm? Anyone help me out any advice will greatly appreciated


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dapepper9

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I would do 2". 2.5" you might start getting some rear sag and 2" is plenty to run what you're wanting. Don't need anything else and ALTHOUGH sway bar drop brackets, longer shocks, adjustable track bar will all help it ride better they're not really needed. It doesn't change the ride a ton though i would definitely recommend an alignment.

Also i would highly recommend the steel spacers. The poly ones are both overpriced and junk. Ive seen more than a few of them crack. HellBentSteel makes some good spacers for about $60-70
 
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Moparornocar0346

Moparornocar0346

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I would do 2". 2.5" you might start getting some rear sag and 2" is plenty to run what you're wanting. Don't need anything else and ALTHOUGH sway bar drop brackets, longer shocks, adjustable track bar will all help it ride better they're not really needed. It doesn't change the ride a ton though i would definitely recommend an alignment.

Also i would highly recommend the steel spacers. The poly ones are both overpriced and junk. Ive seen more than a few of them crack. HellBentSteel makes some good spacers for about $60-70

True on the steel spacers for sure. I just replaced my trac bar with moog part. So hopefully that last for a while but I need to replace my sway bar links that’s next on my list of things. But as I buy my spacers imma buy my shocks to as they r shot and alignment is a must for sure. So regular shocks will work with 2”?


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dapepper9

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I would do standard height shocks unless you plan on doing the shocks at the same time you're putting the spacers in. I say this because the driverside sucks to do with a longer shock. Master cylinder is in the way. If you wait to put shocks in until you're putting the driverside spring back in it would be a million times easier. Just to get it set in, you can bolt it down later.

But yeah standard shocks work fine or you can run a Bilstein 5100 which starts at 2" lift
 
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Moparornocar0346

Moparornocar0346

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I would do standard height shocks unless you plan on doing the shocks at the same time you're putting the spacers in. I say this because the driverside sucks to do with a longer shock. Master cylinder is in the way. If you wait to put shocks in until you're putting the driverside spring back in it would be a million times easier. Just to get it set in, you can bolt it down later.

But yeah standard shocks work fine or you can run a Bilstein 5100 which starts at 2" lift

Yea I plan on doing the shocks when I do the spacers for sure.


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dapepper9

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In that case you get whichever you like. The 2" taller will prob ride better but with the extra hassle of driverside install.
 
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Moparornocar0346

Moparornocar0346

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In that case you get whichever you like. The 2" taller will prob ride better but with the extra hassle of driverside install.

Well ok I’ll do that for sure. Thanks for the heads up on the drivers side man I really appreciate it


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Arctic Taco

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I like the KORE leveling kit, but unless you have a CTD, it is going to give you at least 3”+ of lift up front. It comes with sway bar blocks and the Bilstein 5100s. As it is mine still seems to be pushing a 3” lift with the CTD and a Ranch Hand deluxe front bumper. But the ride definitely feels better than with a puck/spacer.

Still looking at options to lift the rear end about 2-“
As it sits now:E6C25299-5672-464A-892C-C5F8A394A9A8.jpeg
 
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