2008 5.7 p2311 and cylinder 4 misfire

[theskyisoutthere]

I know there is a lot of similar post s but I need some guidance checking what else I need to check.

I bought a very used 2008 ram 1500 4x4 cheaply to help my neighbor, who was having money issues. It has only the one issue misfire on cylinder 4 (p0304) and also (p2311) Ignition Coil 4 Secondary Circuit Insufficient Ionization, which is probably the source of the 0304.

I have other 5.7 vehicles so I had an extra known good coil swapped it in and new plugs matching the old ones, no change, also then swept coils cylinder 4 to 2 and 2 to 4 no change still misfire 4. Pulled injectors swapped 4 to 2 and 2 to 4 problem stayed at 4. Also each time cleared codes and they return as well as the th feel if the miss. Engine is dead quiet no ticks and was previously replaced many years ago. Also many other circuits have been mended but this one seems left alone.

I have also pulled a test light and can't get a light from the coil to ground (was told to test this but not sure the procedure. Tried multimeter most I got was a few volts. Went to harness at PCM and tested circuit to coil from PCM and it has good continuity no sign it has shorted wiggled and nothing changed.

When I do put it all back right it seems like when I reset the code it starts up on all 8 for a few seconds before ejt goes back to misfiring.

Again I bought th truck this way knowing the lack of rust was worth trying to fix it.

Any help would be appreciated, also if someone had skills and time to walk me through it all in a call I would be willing to pay for time.

I can't locate the test parameters for the coil and circuit tests for this. If I this is the PCM I would be happy because I am dreading it being lifters or cam. Lots of miles on body but no idea total engine miles. No ticking infact I had a charge rwith a 5.7 that ran great and was louder than this is even with it misfiring.

 

[jws123]

Have you done a compression test?

 

[theskyisoutthere]

Have you done a compression test?

Yes finally did. After a friend came up with a good real scan tool he borrowed and was able to finally really clear the computer, I was able to get a better test on the coil circuit. Unfortunately not good news. Did not get good results that cylinder at best made 120 at worst made 75. Scoped it and it looks like exhaust valve is not shutting all the way. I have to now pull the valve cover hoping it's something not that bad like a broken spring but it's probably going to be head off which I am not looking forward to.

 

[jws123]

Yes finally did. After a friend came up with a good real scan tool he borrowed and was able to finally really clear the computer, I was able to get a better test on the coil circuit. Unfortunately not good news. Did not get good results that cylinder at best made 120 at worst made 75. Scoped it and it looks like exhaust valve is not shutting all the way. I have to now pull the valve cover hoping it's something not that bad like a broken spring but it's probably going to be head off which I am not looking forward to.

May be a bad valve seat did the truck overheat ever? its honestly easy to get the heads of these trucks if it gets that far. Drain coolant pull intake 2 exhaust bolts and then the head ya dont even need to tear the front apart while it makes it easier not necessary. Also when you re install head make sure you use correct head gasket left drivers side right passenger it matters you also need new head bolts.

 

[theskyisoutthere]

May be a bad valve seat did the truck overheat ever? its honestly easy to get the heads of these trucks if it gets that far. Drain coolant pull intake 2 exhaust bolts and then the head ya dont even need to tear the front apart while it makes it easier not necessary. Also when you re install head make sure you use correct head gasket left drivers side right passenger it matters you also need new head bolts.

Well that sounds easier than I was prepared for. Engine is definitely younger than the truck. Not sure if it overheated but, I have put a sign in it for sale, but I have not given up on her yet. I am pulling the valve cover tonight after I get home. Hoping it's something simpler than the head.

 

[Mooms]

I am having the same issue with my 2010 on cylinder 5 (P0305). I have swapped plugs, coil pack and fuel injector. Problem stays on cylinder 5. I have sent multiple oil samples to Blackstone and they show no metal shavings, so I don't think it's a cam lobe. It does not have the tapping consistent with cam shaft/lifters. I am getting the blinking CEL while going up hill and/or over about 2000 RPM and solid on flat ground, downhill and low rpm.

My next step is to check PCM to Coil Pack wiring for continuity. Where can I get the pinout for the PCM and or can someone tell me which of the four plugs on the PCM and pin #?

 

[theskyisoutthere]

I am having the same issue with my 2010 on cylinder 5 (P0305). I have swapped plugs, coil pack and fuel injector. Problem stays on cylinder 5. I have sent multiple oil samples to Blackstone and they show no metal shavings, so I don't think it's a cam lobe. It does not have the tapping consistent with cam shaft/lifters. I am getting the blinking CEL while going up hill and/or over about 2000 RPM and solid on flat ground, downhill and low rpm.

My next step is to check PCM to Coil Pack wiring for continuity. Where can I get the pinout for the PCM and or can someone tell me which of the four plugs on the PCM and pin #?

Pretty sure if you search the forum there's a good wiring diagram I used it to trace coil number four but if you started having an intermittent flashing and it's not consistent in your idle is okay you might have something else going on especially if you try changing the coil have you did a multimeter check for voltage there or have you tried to test light to see if it pulses at the plug remember you might have to clear the codes in order for it to come back on during your test that was my problem I had to clear it like four times with a laptop system in order to get good readings at my coil again. Mine's definitely exhaust valve hanging open slightly like just enough to get intermittent pressure so I haven't been able to because of weather dig deeper into it to find out if it's a broken valve spring or bent rod or bent valve yet

 

[theskyisoutthere]

Second one from right cylinder 4.

So no obvious issues with valve cover off. Also cranked over filming it it cycles up and down the same nothing loose so far. And also after filming it on crank, I redid another compression test and got consistent 145-148 on cold and I mean cold engine (28 degrees f out here) and I am outside. This differs greatly from before when I could not get a consistent reading.

When I scoped it there was no hit and no obvious seat protruding but it looks like the valve itself is just a tiny bit not flat in seat. (no way to measure inside the cylinder) looking again now it looks like it's more flush (like it's improving). I know this truck was sat for a while before the previous owner tried to fix it. Could I still be looking at contamination in the seat or should I swap a sping?

Is there anyway with head on to work out the junk with out disassembing it. If possible I could then retest and hope it improves. It's a high milage truck I really don't want to pull it appart just to keep it going for farm use. I can tell from the engine that it's been out before looks a lot younger than it should if it had over 250k it would look alot worse especially inside in my opinion.

Any thoughts?

Ideas? Input in which way to go?

 

[theskyisoutthere]

Ended up being the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 they suggested to pull motor and rebuild entire thing... Should I just do the head? It was not valve train looks to be a just a valve problem with that head. Need advice there is a shop that would build the head for me. But I don't have a garage so I am stuck having someone else with space pull the head since it will take them a few days to do the head I can't leave it open in the weather here plus it's like 10 degrees and snowing.