2008 Unique No start issue.

[iamram]

2008 Ram 1500 5.7 8th vin 2


Over the last 4 weeks or so the truck has blown the ignition run/acc 20 amp fuse twice. When this happens the ETC light comes on. Now, suddenly, the truck will not start, the fuse is fine, there is no fuel pressure, and I have to physically turn the key back to disengage the starter.


The truck has an immobilizer ignition receiver, but the solid red light comes on and goes back off when the key is turned on. I am told this means there is no problem with the immobilizer.

I replaced the ignition switch, aftermarket, (left side of the column), not the ignition lock cylinder. No change. I was thinking the lock cylinder could have worn but a locksmith told me that is likely not the case.


What would cause the ignition not to disengage other than the ignition switch or lock cylinder?

What would cause the fuel pump not to pump (in this case), other than a signal from the ignition switch or immobilizer to the PCM?


Thank you for your time
R

 

[jws123]

I would start looking at wiring for anything damaged ect you said it blew a fuse so.. have you scanned the truck for codes?. Possibly swap out the starter relay? could also be a tipm issue maybe something melted they dont really fail on older trucks that often like the newer rams but **** happens.

 

[iamram]

Thank you for the reply. The help is immeasurably valuable.


So far today I have...


Looked from the steering column to the TIPM, then from the starter as far as I could see forward, for breaks, chafes, cracks, and rusted or corroded connections.


I removed and disassembled the TIPM and inspected it for the same as well as burns or broken solder joints on the PCB (not to worry, I am familiar with this kind of repair).


But I have spent most of my morning looking for the elusive started solenoid. This item is supposed to be under the TIPM next to the battery box. I can assure you it is not. Not on the fender, the firewall, the cow, or in the kick panel on the driver or passenger side. It is not behind the steering column, nor is it behind the glove box. I even went back under the truck and looked up and down the chassis and in the bumper. Nope.


I am open to suggestions on where to look for this thing. Starting to think they integrated it in the PCM for this model only, just to make me look the fool.


Thank again
R

 

[jws123]

Thank you for the reply. The help is immeasurably valuable.


So far today I have...


Looked from the steering column to the TIPM, then from the starter as far as I could see forward, for breaks, chafes, cracks, and rusted or corroded connections.


I removed and disassembled the TIPM and inspected it for the same as well as burns or broken solder joints on the PCB (not to worry, I am familiar with this kind of repair).


But I have spent most of my morning looking for the elusive started solenoid. This item is supposed to be under the TIPM next to the battery box. I can assure you it is not. Not on the fender, the firewall, the cow, or in the kick panel on the driver or passenger side. It is not behind the steering column, nor is it behind the glove box. I even went back under the truck and looked up and down the chassis and in the bumper. Nope.


I am open to suggestions on where to look for this thing. Starting to think they integrated it in the PCM for this model only, just to make me look the fool.


Thank again
R

I am not 100% sure on the older trucks but i think the starter solenoid might be on the back side of the tipm soldered to the board it stupid how they do that currently replacing a fuel relay soldered onto my 2011 rams tipm board.

 

[iamram]

Thank you
I was worried when I looked at the TIPM that it was in there. I mean, 2 boards? What insane person designed this thing? I haven't the means to test this, and a sledgehammer is overkill, so I will call a hook in the morning, and it's off to the shop.
I can't call this solved and hate to leave a thread in limbo, so I will leave its fate up to the mods until I can post the answer I get from the mechanic.

Thanks for your help
R

 

[FabricGATOR]

I'm subscribed...
The locksmith said: "not likely the cylinder"
Isn't there an electrical switch in the column that the lock cylinder moves?

If it weren't that switch, then how would turning the key back, somehow release a sticky relay in the TIPM regardless of whether it is a plug in or permanent soldered to a board?

 

[jws123]

OK so im not tired now and I just re read everything lol So its a 2008 on these newer trucks once you turn the key to start its made to keep cranking for 20-30 seconds trying to start its a cycle and if it doesnt fire it will eventually stop even tho your not holding the key in start position. If you go to crank and it never stops after 20-30 seconds ish thats a problem but its starting to sound to me like you have a fuel pump issue so it keeps cranking trying to start but it cant due to no fuel pressure.