2012 Ram 1500 5.7 Crank, No Start

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Yuengling08

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Hi All,

My truck will crank but will not start. Below are the critical details that have lead to this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1. Had recent issues two years ago with faulty cam and crankshaft sensors. Simply replaced. Truck would stall when stopped on the road after running.

2. Stall continued after time and I replaced the fuel pump. Worked for a little, but problem continued.

3. Swapped out transmission after 160k miles. Issues with 3rd gear. The shop had to swap out 3 separate transmissions before it would take with no engine codes. Shop gave me the truck back with no gas left. Ever since then, I had continuous issues getting it started. Once primed with a couple on/off clicks to initiate the fuel pump, I could get it started.

4. Sent my truck into another shop (moved) and they diagnosed the failure to replace the fuel pump (again) and replace the TIPM. Got it back with no issues. Ran well for 4 weeks.

Tried to start my truck earlier this week before work and it would crank but no start. I could not hear the fuel pump running on the on switch position. I've exhausted a lot of options from google searches on this problem. I am going to replace the battery this week to see if that may help. Open to any suggestions. I have tried the fuse box jumper to power the fuel pump, but that did not work either.

Thank you in advance!
 

Ken226

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4. Sent my truck into another shop (moved) and they diagnosed the failure to replace the fuel pump (again) and replace the TIPM. Got it back with no issues. Ran well for 4 weeks.

Thank you in advance!

The integral fuel pump relay in the TIPM could have went bad, but given the quality of parts these days, my money is on the fuel pump.

What brand fuel pump did they use? Because they are probably going to be replacing it again under warranty, assuming they chose, ordered and installed the part.


Parts store fuel pumps are pretty much junk these days, like everything else. The only thing worse would be Chinese junk from eBay or Amazon.

If you can't find a OEM Mopar fuel pump, don't go any cheaper than Delphi. RockAuto has them for about $260.

The labor to replace it every month will be a helluva lot more than the money they save by selling you junk. Don't let them put junk parts in your truck. I'd go Mopar.

 
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Burla

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If you tried the bypass the tipm and it still didnt start, probably need another fuel pump.

Shop should fix it 4 weeks?
 

Wild one

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With the ignition in Run mode,give the bottom of the tank several good hard swats with your fist,and see if the pump kicks in.You can use a rubber hammer,but don't go all bohunk hitting the tank with it.
 

Rustywallace

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With the ignition in Run mode,give the bottom of the tank several good hard swats with your fist,and see if the pump kicks in.You can use a rubber hammer,but don't go all bohunk hitting the tank with it.
Don’t want to hijack the thread, but my 12 has been recently not cranking til the 3rd or 4th time I turn the key fob. Was thinking it was a fuel pump problem, after replacing relays, battery, checking alternator and starter.
 

Wild one

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Don’t want to hijack the thread, but my 12 has been recently not cranking til the 3rd or 4th time I turn the key fob. Was thinking it was a fuel pump problem, after replacing relays, battery, checking alternator and starter.
I'm not quite following you,when you say it's "not cranking" that's not usually a fuel pump problem,or do you mean the engine is turning over aka cranking,but not starting till the 3rd or 4th time of it turning over with the key
 

Rustywallace

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Nope, no turning over, electronics on but nothing mechanically til 3rd or 4th attempt
 

Wild one

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Nope, no turning over, electronics on but nothing mechanically til 3rd or 4th attempt
That's not a fuel pump issue then.When it does it again,crawl under and give the starter a couple swats with a hammer,and see what happens,if it starts better,you might be looking at replacing the starter
 

Jeepwalker

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My guess is it's NOT the fuel pump but one of the items below. But, impossible to say, w/o someone looking at it. Are you getting any codes? If so, what are you getting? I agree with some of the posts above, but will add a few extra details.

Fuel Pump Relay/Bypass cable: On the fuel pump relay issue AFAIK they were mostly solved by around 2012, but, maybe not totally and that's a possibility on your truck. The cable will bypass is super-easy to install. If the pump runs with the bypass cable installed, that will tell you something. You could leave it in place OR, a guy can buy an exact replacement relay for the TIPM board (computer) off ebay/amazon and desolder and resolder a new relay in place of the old one, on the computer board, for about $15-$20 yourself. If that's something you can handle. Buy a roll of de-soldering wick (braided wire) for a couple bucks to remove the solder. Replacing the old relay (if needed) is a lot cheaper than buying a new computer for $1,200. There are videos showing how to do it. I bought a new relay for my truck's TIPM and put in the glove box, "Just in case" mine flakes out. So far so good. I bought all new gray relays too for the fusebox...exact ones (also in the glovebox). Of course if I pre-buy parts I never need them.

Fuel Pressure Regulator: The fuel pressure regulator is to the L and below the brake booster, as you look at it from the front of the tk. They somewhat commonly flake-out. Not difficult to change if you don't mind climbing up into the engine compartment. Also plenty of DIY videos on diagnosing & changing that. The truck will just 'crank' and not start. Watch a video or two and you'll get the low-down on how to test/change.

WIN module needs to be R&R'd (??). The WIN module is a common failure point on early rams and early-teens Rams. Even mine is getting somewhat flaky and one of these days I need to take it part and inspect/clean. The module box which is behind the key has a bunch of electronics in it. The contacts that complete the circuits when the key is turned get flaky after a while (esp with heavy keys), and need cleaning. If trying to start a couple times and side-pressure on the key makes a difference, then a WIN module issue seems probable. AND/Or, another issue: some of the solder joints inside where the boards hook up, inside the WIN module, sometimes also get bad ...known as a 'cold' solder joint. They can be re-flowed with a solder pen and usually does the trick. That's another thing that happens with them. WIN module issues are rife with Chrysler vehicles of the era, incl dodge cars and vans. There's a lot of DIY WIN module (fix) videos if you do a search. It's good to know about b/c if you don't have that problem now, you might someday soon.

Crank/Cam sensors: If you put cheap ones in, who knows??? That could be it too. Verify connections. I would think you'd get a code if one of them were flaking out.

Those are the things that come to mind. Start by getting the codes read to help give you a starting point.
 
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62Blazer

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I'm not an expert mechanic or anything, but there are some simple tests you can do before randomly throwing parts at it and hoping you get lucky.
If the fuel pump is not kicking in you can trace the power wire. Is the fuel pump actually getting power? You can check this at the relay also to see if power is going into, and out of the, the TIPM/relay. Also do a quick visual inspection, looking for rubbed through wires and loose or cruddy connectors. Spend some time searching around for videos on YouTube on diagnostics. There are some really good examples such as South Main Auto and Pine Hollow Diagnostics that can give you some basics. You don't have to get as detailed and in-depth as they do, but will at least give you some basics to look at. A decent shop just doesn't throw parts at something with no testing......though finding a decent shop can be hard.
 
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