2012 ram engine issues

[jws123]

I have a 2012 ram 5.7 180k just got it on the road i just did the cam,lifters,timing chain,oil pump ect and i am having a few issues.
It idles rough but has good power feels like it is missing at idle but no engine codes except po406 fuel level circuit?. When i swapped the cam i 100% removed mds with a non mds vvt cam and tuned it out i have the old sensors sitting under intake so it doesn't set off the light i also replaced the cam phaser solenoid because it was broken. thinking maybe the new sensor is no good? but shouldn't it set a light off? i also checked coils and plugs cant get this thing to run right anyone have any suggestions?

1 other thing ive noticed is this one un like my 2011 has a 6 speed tranny and it seams to up shift to early? or is that just how it is...?

 

[Scottly]

Spark, fuel, compression....Follow the trail.

 

[JohnnyMac]

Spark, fuel, compression....Follow the trail.

Unfortunately with all the sensors these new motors have, that doesn't seem to work anymore...

 

[jws123]

i checked compression all is good this thing is driving me nutz . I am going to change the plugs next for the hell of it even tho they look good whats recommended for these picky new hemis?

 

[JohnnyMac]

Plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-Dodge-Liter-Spark-Mopar/dp/B00LME0BQQ

I had an old 360 that acted that way with a vacuum leak. Idled like crap but ran like a cut cat when I stepped on it. Replaced the cracked hose and it was fixed.

 

[Scottly]

Unfortunately with all the sensors these new motors have, that doesn't seem to work anymore...

Well, actually, it does. It is possible to have a bad sensor without having a visible engine failure code. So, what does a bad sensor so? It sends no or bad information, thus causing the fuel or spark to be absent or incorrect in some fashion. So in the case posed by the OP, I would start by determining the cylinder that is misfiring. An IR temp gun applied to the exhaust manifold would probably do the trick. Once you isolate the cylinder, then you check compression, fuel(injector), and spark(coil/plug). If the injector is getting a signal but no fuel, test the injector. If the coil is getting a signal but no spark, test plug and or coil. If there isn't a single candidate for a misfire and it's random cylinder misfire, check to see if you have contaminated fuel, low fuel pressure, blockage in fuel system, etc. Check for missing signals to coils/injectors that could point to a pick-up issue, like a crank or cam sensor. It all comes down to....spark, fuel, compression. Without all three, engine no run.

 

[JohnnyMac]

Well, actually, it does. It is possible to have a bad sensor without having a visible engine failure code. So, what does a bad sensor so? It sends no or bad information, thus causing the fuel or spark to be absent or incorrect in some fashion. So in the case posed by the OP, I would start by determining the cylinder that is misfiring. An IR temp gun applied to the exhaust manifold would probably do the trick. Once you isolate the cylinder, then you check compression, fuel(injector), and spark(coil/plug). If the injector is getting a signal but no fuel, test the injector. If the coil is getting a signal but no spark, test plug and or coil. If there isn't a single candidate for a misfire and it's random cylinder misfire, check to see if you have contaminated fuel, low fuel pressure, blockage in fuel system, etc. Check for missing signals to coils/injectors that could point to a pick-up issue, like a crank or cam sensor. It all comes down to....spark, fuel, compression. Without all three, engine no run.

I definitely smell what you're steppin in, and those are all excellent troubleshooting measures.... What I'm saying is that it's not simple like checking your lawnmower or 64 VW Bug for spark, fuel and compression like we used to do. Sensors in that modern engine change all kinds of running parameters based on things like temperature, voltage, RPM's, fuel octane, altitude, speed, throttle position, exhaust gases, you name it. It's just not that simple anymore since it operates well under certain conditions and not others.

 

[Scottly]

I definitely smell what you're steppin in, and those are all excellent troubleshooting measures.... What I'm saying is that it's not simple like checking your lawnmower or 64 VW Bug for spark, fuel and compression like we used to do. Sensors in that modern engine change all kinds of running parameters based on things like temperature, voltage, RPM's, fuel octane, altitude, speed, throttle position, exhaust gases, you name it. It's just not that simple anymore since it operates well under certain conditions and not others.

Agreed. The bigger problem as I see it is the avg guy equipping himself to diag all that stuff. Unlike like the cars of old that you cite, you can no longer do it with a timing light and a dwell meter. Just the low amps probe for a good multimeter costs more than all of that stuff used on the old cars. And even if a scan tool to read OBDII is cheaply obtained, a tool to read the Body, brake, and transmission modules is not cheap by any means. On some level, it's just unfair for the DIY'er

 

[jws123]

Just seafoamed it and put 1 in the tank aswell ordered plugs cause we all know no stores carry 16 replacing the vvt solonoid just to cover my ass ordered a mopar one aswell as crank and cam sensors.... if all that doesnt work thein idk lol....

 

[JohnnyMac]

Just seafoamed it and put 1 in the tank aswell ordered plugs cause we all know no stores carry 16 replacing the vvt solonoid just to cover my ass ordered a mopar one aswell as crank and cam sensors.... if all that doesnt work thein idk lol....

Good luck and please report what you figure out so it helps the next guy.

 

[huntergreen]

Is there a way to check the throttle position sensor ?

 

[Casper]

I have a 2012 ram 5.7 180k just got it on the road i just did the cam,lifters,timing chain,oil pump ect and i am having a few issues.
It idles rough but has good power feels like it is missing at idle but no engine codes except po406 fuel level circuit?. When i swapped the cam i 100% removed mds with a non mds vvt cam and tuned it out i have the old sensors sitting under intake so it doesn't set off the light i also replaced the cam phaser solenoid because it was broken. thinking maybe the new sensor is no good? but shouldn't it set a light off? i also checked coils and plugs cant get this thing to run right anyone have any suggestions?

1 other thing ive noticed is this one un like my 2011 has a 6 speed tranny and it seams to up shift to early? or is that just how it is...?

---
180K is a lot of gas through the system. Did you look at fuel pump and filter at all?

 

[jws123]

---
180K is a lot of gas through the system. Did you look at fuel pump and filter at all?

Waiting on some parts to come I was going to check fuel pressure but here is another question there is no port on the fuel rail to check it.....? how does one check fuel pressure on a 2012 lol?

 

[jws123]

OK so here is what i did today and it SO FAR KNOCK WOOD it appears to be running smoother so far occasional rumble still but replacing plugs and its also a hemi so that's normal.

1 Clean throttle body
2 Found a fked up ground wire added new one going from cylinder head to body.
3 cleaned all ground wires.
4 New vvt solenoid AGAIN i think the new one was bad.
5 sea foamed it down the intake twice
6 Took it on parkway and blew the livin **** outta it

also notice now i have a code for left front speed sensor traction and 4wd light on could explain my shifting issues possible i guess? just ordered one.

 

[jws123]

cat bank 1 below threshold is my code now... still running better thio

 

[JohnnyMac]

cat bank 1 below threshold is my code now... still running better thio

Congrats! Pushing that sea foam through it may have tripped cat bank code. It might clear on it's own after a bit.

 

[jws123]

Congrats! Pushing that sea foam through it may have tripped cat bank code. It might clear on it's own after a bit.

na i wiped the code it comes back could of been a issue before tho only got it on the road last week after putting engine in. still ran kinda rough today but not as bad looks like cat might be clogged i guess it use to burn ALOT of oil due to the black on the rear bumper above tail pipes guna check both 02 sensors someone told me to pull both first.