2014 gear install issues

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ladiesman217

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My truck came with open differential and 3.55s.
I'm installing a zf lsd machined to accept the older style gears and I'm doing the 4.56s.

Yesterday we tore into my rear axle and about the only thing that went smoothly was removing the diff cover..
I planed on reusing my bearings on the carrier and pinion because they only have 7k miles on them, usually that's no big deal of you have a press..
With that being said I only purchased a mini install kit.

So I get the carrier out after fighting with the adjusters until realizing they need to be loosened up most of the way.
I get the carrier out and while I was (lightly) prying on the bearings to get the carrier out I managed to Crack the bearing.
F#+K.
So now before I call Napa I decided to try and get the pinion bearing off.
Ha it crumbled like it was plastic.
Wtf
So I call Napa and get the carrier bearings and races. Part #s (cup, JLM704610, Cone JLM704649)
Called advance auto and get the inner pinion bearing. Part # m804049 NATIONAL brand
20140331_075732_zpsd56a34cb.jpg

I did not get the matching race for the inner pinion bearing.

So I get everything pressed on and it goes well.
I decided not to put a shim under bearing on the pinion.

Slap everything in with the old crush washer for *****.
I barely tighten the pinion nut and the pinion is getting real hard to turn. I loosened the nut enough to make it easy to turn the pinion and try setting the backlash.

I tinker around with the adjusters and try getting a look at the pattern.
And this is what I got

20140330_203502_zpsadbcdace.jpg
20140330_203517_zps112f806b.jpg

We looked at a few pattern sheets and it's saying the pinion is to close and to remove a shim.
Huh? There aren't any shims??

So now I'm thinking that either it's the wrong pinion bearing or I need the matching cup for the cone?

Also when I tighten the pinion nut with my impact all the way, I have to take a breaker bar to rotate the pinion.

Now I havnt seen any one else do a gear swap with a 2014 but it shouldn't be any different right?

Thanks guys.
 

loveracing1988

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Your first problem is you re used the crush sleeve, since you tightened it to where you couldn't turn it you definitely need a new one. No matter what always get new races when you get new bearings.
 

loveracing1988

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my truck came with open differential and 3.55s.
I'm installing a zf lsd machined to accept the older style gears and i'm doing the 4.56s.

Yesterday we tore into my rear axle and about the only thing that went smoothly was removing the diff cover..
I planed on reusing my bearings on the carrier and pinion because they only have 7k miles on them, usually that's no big deal of you have a press..
With that being said i only purchased a mini install kit.

So i get the carrier out after fighting with the adjusters until realizing they need to be loosened up most of the way.
I get the carrier out and while i was (lightly) prying on the bearings to get the carrier out i managed to crack the bearing.
F#+k.
So now before i call napa i decided to try and get the pinion bearing off.
Ha it crumbled like it was plastic.
Wtf
so i call napa and get the carrier bearings and races. Part #s (cup, jlm704610, cone jlm704649)
called advance auto and get the inner pinion bearing. Part # m804049 national brand
20140331_075732_zpsd56a34cb.jpg


i did not get the matching race for the inner pinion bearing.

So i get everything pressed on and it goes well.
I decided not to put a shim under bearing on the pinion.

Slap everything in with the old crush washer for *****.
I barely tighten the pinion nut and the pinion is getting real hard to turn. I loosened the nut enough to make it easy to turn the pinion and try setting the backlash.

I tinker around with the adjusters and try getting a look at the pattern.
And this is what i got

20140330_203502_zpsadbcdace.jpg

20140330_203517_zps112f806b.jpg


we looked at a few pattern sheets and it's saying the pinion is to close and to remove a shim.
Huh? There aren't any shims??

So now i'm thinking that either it's the wrong pinion bearing or i need the matching cup for the cone?

Also when i tighten the pinion nut with my impact all the way, i have to take a breaker bar to rotate the pinion.

Now i havnt seen any one else do a gear swap with a 2014 but it shouldn't be any different right?

Thanks guys.

uploadfromtaptalk1396323042116.jpg
 
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ladiesman217

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Figured it out.

First off, the problem was the inner pinion race.
it was to shallow and completely different than the correct race for the bearing part # m804049. I also went and got a new timken bearing and race, totaly scrapped the national bearing just incase I damaged it at all.

Pounded out the old race, and repalced it and all went well.

Set backlash to .006 and tested the patteren and it came out awesome.

So the moroal of the story is: 2014s use a different inner pinion bearing and race from factory, but the older style bearing works like a champ.
 

fasthemiram12

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Whew... Glad you got it figured out
 

DavidRam

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That is great info, and you have skillz bro!

I am about to order parts to a swap from 3.55 open dif, to 4.10 and lsd. Any words of advise??? I have thought about going with the oem lsd for the sake of the warranty..?

A local shop will be doing the install, but could you give me a list of all the parts I should get to do a perfect job, please? My truck 2012 RCSB, 2x2 with 6,000 miles on it. Should I get new bearings just encase? What gear oil did you get?

I have been reading about needing to replace the ZF axle and needing to machine something or other... :( I am so clueless at this.

Thank you!
 
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loveracing1988

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Figured it out.

First off, the problem was the inner pinion race.
it was to shallow and completely different than the correct race for the bearing part # m804049. I also went and got a new timken bearing and race, totaly scrapped the national bearing just incase I damaged it at all.

Pounded out the old race, and repalced it and all went well.

Set backlash to .006 and tested the patteren and it came out awesome.

So the moroal of the story is: 2014s use a different inner pinion bearing and race from factory, but the older style bearing works like a champ.

By inner are you refering to the head bearing I take it?
What was your turning torque when you were done?
 
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ladiesman217

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Whew... Glad you got it figured out

Your tell me lol I was panicing pretty good sunday night.


Loveracing: yes the bearing that presses up against the pinion gear.
and the turning torque was right at 15 inch lbs
 
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ladiesman217

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Here is the factory race that was to shallow.
20140331_184531_zps4a92a852.jpg

Heres the timken race.
20140331_184549_zps5e2a20c9.jpg
 

sausec17

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I work for SKF in the engineering department. Glad to see our bearings are being put to good use :)
 

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