2014 Ram 1500 coil spring suspension Ball joint issues

[Lakewind]

I'm having a tough time finding ball joints that will last on my 2014 RAM 1500 Tradesman RWD. At 70k miles the drivers side lower ball joint made a slight popping noise noise when turning. Dealer diagnosed a bad lower ball joint and told me Ram doesn't sell just the lower ball joint just the entire lower contol arm with joint already installed. The cost installed was outrageous and I wasn't interested in OEM parts since I've had older trucks with ball joints that lasted 250k. I had a local mechanic press the old joint out and install a moog joint that appeared better built with heavier boot but still no lube fitting. It's 30 thousand miles since the moog joint was installed and it's sqeaking and making noise. The rubber boot that looked heavier than stock was almost gone and the rusty joint clear to see. And it looks like the upper stock ball joint boot is tore. The fact that the new moog joint only lasted 30k really has me unsure what to buy? Will pressing new joints in every 30k eventually wear the lower control arm hole out? It appears to be aluminum. Can anyone vouch for, and recommend ball joints for my truck that will last? This truck with 100k miles has only been driven on paved highway roads towed short distance 3 times in it's entire life. It's been a pavement princess it's entire life why can't I keep good ball joints on her? Any help or advice anyone could give would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Wild one]

I'm having a tough time finding ball joints that will last on my 2014 RAM 1500 Tradesman RWD. At 70k miles the drivers side lower ball joint made a slight popping noise noise when turning. Dealer diagnosed a bad lower ball joint and told me Ram doesn't sell just the lower ball joint just the entire lower contol arm with joint already installed. The cost installed was outrageous and I wasn't interested in OEM parts since I've had older trucks with ball joints that lasted 250k. I had a local mechanic press the old joint out and install a moog joint that appeared better built with heavier boot but still no lube fitting. It's 30 thousand miles since the moog joint was installed and it's sqeaking and making noise. The rubber boot that looked heavier than stock was almost gone and the rusty joint clear to see. And it looks like the upper stock ball joint boot is tore. The fact that the new moog joint only lasted 30k really has me unsure what to buy? Will pressing new joints in every 30k eventually wear the lower control arm hole out? It appears to be aluminum. Can anyone vouch for, and recommend ball joints for my truck that will last? This truck with 100k miles has only been driven on paved highway roads towed short distance 3 times in it's entire life. It's been a pavement princess it's entire life why can't I keep good ball joints on her? Any help or advice anyone could give would be greatly appreciated.

If you post this down in the 4th Gen section,you'll probably get more answers

 

[crazykid1994]

Is your truck bone stock? How do you primarily use your truck? My truck is lifted on 35s and not treated nicely. Off-roading and towing/hauling. Stock ball joints. I am only at 50,000 miles but the stock seem to be pretty solid. Wonder if you got a bad ball joint or if there’s something else wrong causing it to fail

 

[Lakewind]

The truck was never lifted. I bought it with like 11 miles on it brand new. It was never driven off road.

 

[crazykid1994]

Still has stock wheels? No spacers? I’d wager you got some bad luck than. Also moog has a top tier and a lower tier but their stuffs actually not all that good either way. Try looking on rockauto. I personally would try another stock ball joint since it got you the farthest in the first place. May want to get the frame checked if you blow out another ball joint though as that’s definitely odd

 

[Lakewind]

I always kept the stock tire size. No lift or wheel spacers. Heard a few negative things on YouTube about Moog. Have you heard of Mevotech ball joints? They look heavy duty. The truck was never wrecked. Just a minor fender bender a few years ago. Ram doesn't sell ball joints alone only entire control arm with joints installed.

 

[crazykid1994]

Looks like mevotech or dorman are listed as the better ball joints. Honestly I would replace the whole lower myself just to use the factory bj given your truck is 9-10 years old and the bushings could get swapped just as preventative maintenance. I wonder who manufacturers the factory bj anyways.

 

[Lakewind]

I believe the factory ball joints are made in Mexico like the truck.

 

[Burla]

A lot of guys had good luck with zone, not sure if it is uppers or lowers. Clearly it is time to consider a new lower, this is a known issue. Greasable with poly.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I personally would replace the control arm with the ball joint. Seems easier to me than messing with just the ball joint.

 

[boblonben]

I believe the factory ball joints are made in Mexico like the truck.

Probably NOT, most trucks made in US btw, except 2500 and 3500, and mega cabs they are made in Mexico.

 

[Dusty]

When my son replaced a lower on his 2008, it was marked TRW.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 99248 miles.

 

[Wild one]

Probably NOT, most trucks made in US btw, except 2500 and 3500, and mega cabs they are made in Mexico.

Regular cab shortbox 1500's are made in Mexico. Alot of the trucks pieces are manufactured outside of the US,then assembled on the truck in the US on the US "assembled" trucks

 

[mrack]

If you replace the whole lower control arm, be aware that if your truck has ever seen salt the lower control arm bolts seize to the bushings in just a few years. Looks like your in South Carolina though so shouldn’t be a problem. If they do seize, carbide tip blade in a sawzall will cut them out easy, you’ll just have to buy new bolts (around $100, less if you salvage the spacers and nuts).

I’d replace the whole control arm though. I went with mevotech supreme, they’re not too expensive at all, less then $300 for both I believe. Steel instead of aluminum and a greasable ball joint. Plus you get all new bushings with isn’t going to hurt anything at over 100k.