2014 with CEL on?

[Agron1979]

I don't understand, I mean, I've had the truck for less than 8 months and 17k miles and the CEL turned on yesterday. I know it's under warranty, but it upsets me that such a new truck shouldn't have this happen. I've had Toyotas in the past with over 100k miles and never had my CEL go on? Maybe someone on the forum might know what's wrong? Well I'd appreciate any advice at this time.

 

[jwheeler]

There are a hundred things that can turn on the check engine light. Anything will be a wild ass guess until you check the trouble codes with a scan tool. **** breaks. That is the point of the warranty. Take it to the dealer and let them get it fixed up. If it still seems to be running fine, it could be very simple and you will be back on the road in no time.


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[ExpressRules]

Could be something as simple as the gas cap not being on tight.

 

[Agron1979]

I tightened the cap again and removed the positive from the battery, the CEL turned off, but for how long it remains a mystery. It drives normal as usual and if the light comes back on I will send it to the dealership next week. Thanks for the input guys...

 

[7777xm]

Scan it to find out what it is. Even if off, it should still be stored. Most auto parts stores will read them for free.

Plenty of new cars, even Toyota's, run into things like this.

Read the code.

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[preachp]

Hi argon1979,

Why would you reset it and not take it back in to have it checked out? As mentioned earlier that is what the warranty is for.
This kind of bugs me. The whole idea behind the OBD system is so the truck can alert you and the mechanic to a problem BEFORE it damages something. Yet people get a CEL and then can't be bothered with it or get upset because the system is doing what it is supposed to. At the very least go somewhere and find out what the code is. Might be nothing might be something that needs to be addressed.
In any case good luck and have a great day,

preachp

 

[fat1]

turn the key on (not run) and off three times, on the third time leave it on (not run) and it should display the code in the digital odometer area. unless you have the evic in which case you can just browse to it and look it up

 

[Tach_tech]

turn the key on (not run) and off three times, on the third time leave it on (not run) and it should display the code in the digital odometer area. unless you have the evic in which case you can just browse to it and look it up

That old key cycle method hasn't worked since 08 I believe. Unfortunately there's no way to check codes without a scan tool, unless you have a newer SRT8. Some of the new SRT models you can see what code is active through the cluster and steering wheel controls.

 

[ohiogrown]

Hi argon1979,

Why would you reset it and not take it back in to have it checked out? As mentioned earlier that is what the warranty is for.
This kind of bugs me. The whole idea behind the OBD system is so the truck can alert you and the mechanic to a problem BEFORE it damages something. Yet people get a CEL and then can't be bothered with it or get upset because the system is doing what it is supposed to. At the very least go somewhere and find out what the code is. Might be nothing might be something that needs to be addressed.
In any case good luck and have a great day,

preachp

This, multiple times over. I get so annoyed when people bring things to my shop and do just this. "It had a code, I un hooked the battery, then had the dweeb at AutoZone reset it so I could drive it for the weekend, what do you think was wrong?" ... Really? Would you wear a lead t-shirt to go get an Xray? No? Then don't hide my diagnostic clues either!

The problem was a fault with the vehicle, not that the light was on, but that's what you solved. Putting a touranaquit on a compound fracture stops the bleeding too, but you may want to address that bone sticking out. It could be a problem.

I digress, my advice would be, in the event this happens again, take it to the dealer, with the diagnostic information in tact, and let them address the issue. The alternative is keep clearing it and do the head-in-the-sand method, then inevitably be mad at the dealer when it fails catastrophically.

 

[cc rider]

Yeah. Is the light that bothersome? Find out what the hell it is first. Just as an example, if its the gas cap: you just turned it off, now you have a loose gas cap so its going to go back on. Then youre going to get annoyed again. Now, if you would have scanned it first which is what you should have done, it would have told you its a loose gas cap. Then you would have tightened the gas cap, then reset/erase the light and presto! Most of the time its not a major issue. Sometimes it might be an o2 sensor, or plugs. Whatever you do, dont ignore a flashing one. That will most likely do some damage!

 

[fat1]

That old key cycle method hasn't worked since 08 I believe. Unfortunately there's no way to check codes without a scan tool, unless you have a newer SRT8. Some of the new SRT models you can see what code is active through the cluster and steering wheel controls.

Worked on my 2012...my 2015 sport has stored mesaages section but idk if it holds codes there or not

 

[Tach_tech]

Worked on my 2012...my 2015 sport has stored mesaages section but idk if it holds codes there or not

Does it actually give you a code in the messages section though? I may be wrong but usually the only things in the message section is things like "low tire" "oil change due" " see dealer" etc.

Next time I have a 2009-2012 in the shop I'll have to try it, I swear I've tried it before and it didn't work. I've been wrong before though.

 

[fat1]

I don't know but I doubt it does, I was just stating the key trick worked on my 2012 express with basic cluster