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So like i suspected, you have the contacts in the FOB ( it is the right on on the first set of two)Thanks again for all the help. I think the window sticker told us everything we needed to know, but I took some pictures.
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There's going to be a bit more involved, because the diesel needs to decide if it needs to use the grid heater, then let it cycle for whatever time it feels it needs, before it'll start. That said, I would think it is all programming - it's got a fob so the transmitter/receiver is already there, it would just need the trigger in the programming to say 'hey I got this command, I need to do THIS.'
He's already verified the window sticker doesn't show it, but you can get your build sheet HERE, just change the vin in the url to yoursYou can ask the dealer to print a build sheet, takes 5 minutes, that will tell you, no charge for them to do this.
That's not a build sheet, that's a Monroney label. A build sheet looks like this: https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1C6RR7VT9FS766113The OP posted the build sheet in post #16.....
Update: I took the key apart - pushing that button doesn’t do anything visually (no lights flash) and definitely doesn’t start. Didn’t see a hood switch but I think I was looking in the wrong spot. I’ll need to check again when I get home. Sounds like I need to check out the hub behind the backseat as well.So like i suspected, you have the contacts in the FOB ( it is the right on on the first set of two)
I would "push" it and see what happens
But as I mentioned, last time I had a diesel, I had to watch the voltage gauge to know when the plugs were done drawing power so I could start it...so I'm not the most up to date
Considering this is quite old now you either figured it out or you moved on. I figured it out on my truck. my remote start is working perfectly, it took some wire I already had on hand, some connectors I ended up ordering and a crimp tool I ordered but my remote start works perfectly. I will need the hood latch with hood ajar sensor but that will only be to make sure the safety is in place later. So to "paint" the picture. my truck had the wiring from the bcm to the connector under the fuse panel. I needed 2 wires installed in the female side of the connector and run that out to the hood latch area, there I spliced them so they go direct ground. I will change the latch so then one will connect to one pin of the latch the other to the other.I have not figured it out yet. I am hoping to get the deal that @Scottsjeeprolet got for $250. The truck is a 2016.