2017 ram tradesman 2500 hd 5.7 crank no start

[chrisg_ky]

Back in Dec I went out to start my truck cranked but would not start. So I thought my fuel pump was bad so I replaced it. Truck still did not start. So I replaced the tipm. Turns over buy sputters no start.
Replaced the cam, crank and map sensor still no start. Took to Dodge to have them work on it. Here is is the stuff they did in this picture. Drove home fine. Still didn't trust it so I started it the next and let run in my drive way. I forgot about and it was still running an hr or so later. To day I drive in town to buy dog food maybe 30mins drive. Park truck go in store and come out. Truck starts. Drive 5 minutes to Kroger and it dies just as I pull in the parking spot. Seems like it dies near idle. Only codes I have are due to the catalytic converter being removed before I bought the truck 420 and 430. Drove for a year fine like this. Dealer also said PCM voltage checked out. But I still feel like the PCM, rf module or ignition module, TPSM or the new fuel pump is faulty still. I also suspect the reluctor wheel or tone wheel but why would it run for an hr or long perfectly fine then die. I only have basic scan tool. That's why I ended up taking it To dodge. I've search several forums and all 20 of them have never responded to the fix except a bad fuel relay in the tipm which I have replaced. Is possible this could still be bad as well. At my wits end. Can't seem to find a good shop that can diagnose electrical issues.

 

[Burla]

So, all you need in theory is a new OEM cam position sensor? This is not rare with after market sensors, and he said the OEM was damaged, first find a new OEM cps? Probably the number one cause of not starting is this item on rams.

 

[Burla]

It cranks, so I don't think it is the ignition.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Back in Dec I went out to start my truck cranked but would not start. So I thought my fuel pump was bad so I replaced it. Truck still did not start. So I replaced the tipm. Turns over buy sputters no start.
Replaced the cam, crank and map sensor still no start. Took to Dodge to have them work on it. Here is is the stuff they did in this picture. Drove home fine. Still didn't trust it so I started it the next and let run in my drive way. I forgot about and it was still running an hr or so later. To day I drive in town to buy dog food maybe 30mins drive. Park truck go in store and come out. Truck starts. Drive 5 minutes to Kroger and it dies just as I pull in the parking spot. Seems like it dies near idle. Only codes I have are due to the catalytic converter being removed before I bought the truck 420 and 430. Drove for a year fine like this. Dealer also said PCM voltage checked out. But I still feel like the PCM, rf module or ignition module, TPSM or the new fuel pump is faulty still. I also suspect the reluctor wheel or tone wheel but why would it run for an hr or long perfectly fine then die. I only have basic scan tool. That's why I ended up taking it To dodge. I've search several forums and all 20 of them have never responded to the fix except a bad fuel relay in the tipm which I have replaced. Is possible this could still be bad as well. At my wits end. Can't seem to find a good shop that can diagnose electrical issues.View attachment 561422

I don't see anything in their story that says they fixed anything. All they did was attempt to diagnose your concerns and it appears that they stopped when they found the cam sensor lock to be broken.

Now, if there was a problem with the crankshaft tone ring or the camshaft tone ring it can be identified with a scope. The tone rings produce a square wave signal on an oscilloscope graph.

You will need a proper scan tool with a built-in oscilloscope so you can see what the cam and crank sensors are seeing.

If you are concerned about the fuel pump get a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail and monitor the fuel pressure.

 

[chrisg_ky]

Funny thing is the cam sensor lock was not broken when I took it in. So if it is now, which I forgot to check it. they broke it. I have a pressure gauge but cold not find the usual port to connect to. I usually find it on the passenger side at the front of the fuel rail. Is there a different location on the trucks fuel rails. I check both side and don't see it thanks.

 

[chrisg_ky]

They told me the last thing they did was swap my new crank sensor back out for the old one and I guess suddenly it started working. They did not install any parts at all and charge me $340 for what the did do and it took 3 weeks to do that.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Funny thing is the cam sensor lock was not broken when I took it in. So if it is now, which I forgot to check it. they broke it. I have a pressure gauge but cold not find the usual port to connect to. I usually find it on the passenger side at the front of the fuel rail. Is there a different location on the trucks fuel rails. I check both side and don't see it thanks.

You won't find a Schrader Valve on the fuel rail. You will have to use the in-line style connection to go between the fuel rail and the fuel line. It's easy to set up if you have the right kit.


This is what I use in my fuel pressure gauge kit.

 

[chrisg_ky]

Thanks

 

[Wild one]

Thanks

You can use a nitrous fuel rail adapter to check fuel pressure on a hemi.Just plugs inbetween the fuel line and fuel rail,then use a 1/8" adapter to tie into one of the side holes in the adapter

Nitrous Outlet 3/8" Inline Fuel Adapter Kit - Straight

Machined Billet Aluminum Fits Between Factory Fuel Rail and Fuel Line Additional 1/8 NPT Accessory Port All Fittings, Hardware, and O-Ring Included Anodized Black and Laser Etched Fuel Line Adapter:Nitrous Outlet's all new fuel adapters are designed to connect to any 3/8" fuel line and allows...

nitrousoutlet.com

https://www.holley.com/products/nitrous/distribution_blocks_and_fittings/fuel_rail_adapters/parts/961966ERL

 

[chrisg_ky]

I ordered an fuel line adapter set for 30 bucks and a new launch scan tool

LAUNCH X431 PRO3S+ V5.0 Elite 2025 Upgraded Bidirectional Scan Tool, OEM Topology Map​

for future repairs as all I had was the OBD2 innova. So I will check wed or Thursday to see if I'm losing fuel pressure when the truck dies. Also I had a code for the bcm that read bus 3 communication . I can't remember exactly what it said. So I'll have to check that. I am also seeing about swapping out the tipm under warranty and seeing if I can't pay the difference to upgrade to a new one over the remanufactured one.

 

[chrisg_ky]

Found today that the dealer also broke my new to me tipm cover and when I was checking connections to it 3 of the didn't have the locking clip push down all the way and were loose. I also check all pin connections on it and all was clean. Also check PCM connection and it was good. Then checked the two engine bay grounds for batt and PCM, both looked good. Tried to start my truck and hard reset. Didn't start for three times. So I let it sit 3 hrs and check again. Started right up. Now I'm letting it run to see if it shuts off while idling. So it's been 45 mins and it's good. Seems as if just does it when driving. Going to wait another hr to see if it will die. I get my fuel gauge and line adapter tomorrow and scan tool. So I'll dig into it more.

 

[chrisg_ky]

So I fixed the fuel gauge issue. I install the new pump the same direction a the OEM pump not realizing the fuel level arm was longer. This made the level hit the side of the tank for it would move. The OEM one was shorter and would move. So make sure to turn you pump in a away it will let the level move. Also hook it out the the harness to check the sender before sticking it in the tank. Still waiting on my scan tool and fuel gauge kit. The truck also ran for 2 hrs at idle and never died. So it makes me think this only happens when driving. So I'll be taking for a few trips around the block later to see if if it shuts off. That way I can pull it home with our the expense of a tow truck.

 

[Burla]

You can try letting in run in neutral, of course that spins tranny fluid when in park doesnt. Even put it in gear and put load in with brake on, before you put it on the street. A couple little tests that mimick load.

 

[Wild one]

delete

 

[chrisg_ky]

Here are the codes that I found with the new scanner. Low tire pressure is because I got a flat and I am currently on the spare. I'll have to look into the courtesy light. It doesn't always come in when you open the doors. So I've been meaning to look into this. U1045 is suggested to be:
P0513 diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in a Dodge Ram indicates an issue with the immobilizer key. The immobilizer system is the vehicle's anti-theft system.
P1570 is supposed to be "antenna" but I can't find it.
P1574 key communication Failure.
Now I wonder if the RF hi. Is going or the ignition.

I also saw something about vehicle speed sensor when I looked up that code. Which can cause stalling issue but I'm not sure if this is the correct code Info.
Truck continue to idle fine. I didn't get a chance to run it around the block to see if it would fail.

 

[chrisg_ky]

After checking the the fuse box again to look for corrosion. I found my the the connector to the bottom of my fuse were lose after taking it to the dealer. Three of the safety tabs were unclipped. I know I had latched them. I switch out my fuel pump again. After this my truck has been running good every since.