johnny_wilson
Member
Definitely going to pick one of these 2wd low kits up, I don't have an immediate need but you never know. Thanks for the link!
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I would just use the range selector and creep up the hill. Thinking just first gear. And correct, no turns necessary, I wont be putting huge strains on the front axle, though maturally there will be a little resistance/bind I’m sure. But it isnt that long of a run.
I bought the kit for 2wdL. Excited to share my results.
Thanks for the reminder for an update on this thread.How did turn out Mason? I didn't buy one yet but I will soon, unless you say don't bother. Curious to know what you chose to do.
Thanks for the reminder for an update on this thread.
Long story short, I tried it, couldn't get it to function as advertised, and then it was a nightmare at the dealership to try and get everything to function like factory again.
After a few reflashes and tests, the truck works normally again.
When using it, the module is supposed to tell the front axle diaphragm vacuum to not activate by blocking an electrical signal. On mine, it ended up putting the truck into limp home mode. Of course, the dealer was no help. They wanted me to contact FCA's commercial truck department (where I guess they help diagnose upfit trucks?).
I decided to just be OK with 4k RPM and first gear. I'm already into the swing of getting my weekend chores done for spring before summer heat. If the truck can't handle it, then I guess I will deal with that when the time comes. lol.
You have a way with words. Maybe it's just how I heard it in my head. No inflection in text written by somebody you don't really know. I'm laughing again. I can't help it. That would be just fckn stupid. AaahhhahahaWe either got to laugh at stuff or cry... I prefer laughing cause crying means all hope has been lost... unless it coincides with the laughter.
In a straight line it won’t bind at all. The front wouldn’t slip unless the rear slipped and I doubt you are running two different tire sizes on a 4x4 let alone a $55k power wagon... that would just be fckn stupid. You will be fine bud. If you get to a point u need to turn, put it back in 2X and just back up a little and be double sure it fully disengaged. Not rocket science, you got this.
I guess I have been blessed with the vehicles I have driven that the gears are the same and it has never been an issue. Why a manufacture would do that is beyond my knowledge. But I am pretty sure his power wagon has the same gears up front as it does out back. Let’s say anything 2000 and newer has the same gears. I know my 02 Chevy had the same gears cause when in 4Hi at 65-70mph if they weren’t the same that thing would of been all over the place. Then again I guess in Older vehicles AWD wasn’t really an option for the manufactures that ran different gear sets so it wasn’t as apparent an issue. The engineer that made that call is probably building bicycles in the back of a Walmart.
The only "cheap" solution would be to add free wheel hubs to disable 4x4 while in 4Low
Chris
Anyone else installed this kit? Results? It would have come in handy about 6 or 8 times since I bought this rig 8 mo ago. Only input on it is OP and that wasn't good. Thx.the different ratios help in traction limited situations. If done right, the front tires will spin a little faster, helping with steering.
Other reasons for factory mismatched gears is just cause its what in on the market. Example, Chrysler does not make front axles, they usually out-source Dana or AAM. So, if a truck has a Chrysler rear, and a Dana Front, the gear ratio maybe off. really not a big deal with the small amount.
As far as pulling up a paved hill in 4-Low. It'll be fine, even with a little turn here or there. The tires will slip way before any drive-line harm.
Those that push "Selectable Hubs", tend to have owned a 4X4 in the past with locking hubs. Usually it was their first 4X4.
Installing locking hubs would be a solution. Just not one I would go with. Mostly due to cost, and the fact you will never see a return on investment. They make a simple switch that disengages the sleeve in the front axle. Thus, allowing 2 wheel drive in 4-Low (2-Low). Those with vacuum systems would just need to pull the vacuum tube. The newer systems are electrical, just removing voltage from sleeve drive.
Looks like the OP bought, installed and had issues with the 2-low kit... Not sure how, as it is quite simple to install. Maybe something else involved?
I installed the 2 Low kit recently on my ‘18 Ram 3500. It works perfectly for me. As the instructions note, you have to make sure you power on the relays before you shift the transfer case to 4 wheel drive. I don’t know if shifting the transfer case first can cause any of the described issues but I am not going to try it to find out.
OK. Easy enough. Powering on the relays is simply hitting the switch. Guess that keeps the front hubs from ever going into 4wL. Makes sense. Keeps it from going in instead of making it come out of 4wL. Maybe where OP had a problem. Think I'll buy one.
No, I wouldn't either. Not after hearing what he went through to get it back to square one. Haven't bought it yet. Just been busy, no other reason.That might be what the OP did. I shifted into 2 low per the directions a number of times and had no issues. For the fun of it, I turned the switch off once I had it in 2 low and it made a bunch of noise. It was the front end locking the axle shafts together, not a big deal I don't think but I won't do it again.
MasonD21, take a look here 2WD low and you can also use the rear locker and have no load on the front axles.
https://www.dieselperformance.com/s...0-2009-2017-2500-2014-2017-3500-2013-2017-586
2Lo would be best and would concentrate on getting kit fixed. This is literally what its meant for. lots of RV'ers use a 2Lo kit for putting it in tight spots . I've used 4Lo on my BW44-44 for just such a thing and being what it is, it works fine in that situation, pavement or otherwise.
4Lo being second best choice. It will hop but considering how many people put 4Hi on in the rain and then drive at highway speeds in part time transfer cases with their garbage stock tires, you'll be fine. Otherwise we'd see a lot more transfer cases dropping out on the pavement. Strictly speaking , you shouldn't be using 4WD with a REAL (read part time) transfer case unless its slicker than snot. Given the situation i'd deal with the hop, put a wheel in the rocks on edge of pavement if you think its binding excessively. See comment number one. If this was on gravel or loose, this would be choice one. The previous statements on front and rear ratio's potential being different is valid, but as far as i know they
4Hi, worst choice by far. Absolutely zero benefit with all the negatives.
Its been my experience that many people are frighten to use low range with a imagined set of criteria on when to select it. The only risk is over speed, and well you got 6 gears in low range same as high. Use them. If you are moving going slower than you can run, you might considering being in it. On jeeps its rated to ~30mph which is plenty quick for when i want it.