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To all , I'm getting parts together for a 14 / 7 speed blower 8.4 conversion , I don't think I need any of these items ,but I'm not sure about the resistor?
I have the following :
Getupkid's harness
Heater module
911 delete
Single zone Bezel
Audio controls
VR/phone button
911/ assist mirror with mics
I'm hurt CPTWING, when I asked for some help you sent me away. And, I live one state away.
I'll let you make it up on one of my next upgrades...lol
Mpgrimm2 if you need any help with the harness, let me know, I will be glad to help you in anyway I can. And honestly the auto bezel will work just fine.
Thanks cptwing. I am sure I will hit you up when I finally get everything together. Hopefully hootbro's issues had nothing to do with the parts he listed here having problems. I'm sure it will be fine though.
- Still need to get the main harness like getupkid and cuylertech are making. (May make this myself so I can locate the hvac module at the factory pass. kick panel like cptwing did.)
- Still need to verify pn's for VP4 NA radios to make sure I can get the correct one. Not sure if I should focus on a 2013, 2014, or 2015 model to go in my 2013 SLT??
- May keep an eye out for a single zone bezel. Like someone else said, I hate the idea of buttons that don't work. Also want less reason for a dealership to point at "My Mod" as the reason other problems are going on in my truck down the road. (happened before with my old Suzuki XL7 when I swapped out a factory sgl disc radio for a factory 6 disc radio and my BCM died under warranty a month later).
I bought all of it.Still up for grabs?
The details are in cptwing's thread if you wanted to offer both lengths. I wil likely contact you if I decide not to make my own (I'm capable).I could make one the length you want. Just shoot me a PM.
In order to prep the bought harness part 1, we must depin connector 132A, to do this you need to remove the TPA (terminal position assurance) the red thing. Then using a small jewelers screw driver pry back the locking tab and pull out the wire and pin....
The stripped down harness connects to the fabbed harness on the module side using the DB/LB 16 gauge wire that goes to pin 2 in the resistor plug. I cut this wire to 25.0 inches long and crimped a female pin on it for the 24 pin connector and inserted it into cavity number 17. Note this is a 16 gauge wire and these pins are not designed for wire this thick so you will only be able to crimp the stranded wire into the pin and not the insulation. The other alternative would be to crimp a smaller wire and butt splice the together.
Next I cut the black ground wire coming out of the resistor plug to 20.0 inches long and crimped a 10 gauge ring connector onto the end and shrunk wrapped the connection.
The DB wire coming out of cavity 3 of the resistor plug is not to be cut. This wire is to be used to repin the existing 132A connector on your truck. I looped the excess wire back and taped it off.
Here is the complete and finished harness ready to be installed.
View attachment 48588
CONTINUED ON POST 88

Lmao.all items sold and delivered. Thread has now been hijacked by others