9.25 E locker info

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Jnull

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go to alerts. Maybe someone quoted you or liked a post of yours.

Ive only posted in this thread lol. I get those but this was a box on the whole screen
 

Halligan

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Did someone try to start a conversation with me? A box popped up on the page that said that I believe but when I go to conversations nothing’s there...

Maybe it popped when I "liked" one of your posts.
 
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Jnull

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Well I was going to do gears then suspension at some point but figured no sense in messing around and might as well do it all at once while im laid off.

Placed another order with CJC for
-Carli 3” coils
-Carli 1” add a packs
-Carli valved fox 2.0s
-Carli sway bar drops
-Carli diff guard to keep that locker wiring safe.

I drop my truck off to be all done up in line-x tomorrow, when I get it back I’ll weld the truss on then do gears and all the suspension.
 

crazy jerry

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it appears theres a metal shielding bracket held onto the housing flat with a allen or torx bolt. then it looks like the plastic plug connector pushes into the housing from the outside. not sure whats securing it on the inside. maybe some kind of nut with rubber sealing washer ? had the rear cover off recently but didnt pay attention to how the plug is secured in the housing
 
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Jnull

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Itd definitely be nice to know what’s going on inside
 

crazy jerry

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it might be just a push in style with fingers that expand on the inside then some type of oring seal. honestly im not sure. maybe google will have a image of what the plug looks like
 
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it might be just a push in style with fingers that expand on the inside then some type of oring seal. honestly im not sure. maybe google will have a image of what the plug looks like

I’ve searched everything I know how and at least 95% of what comes up is about wiring in a bypass
 

Ingue86

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I think the best way to pass the wiring through a housing that contains oil is through a "wiring gland." This should thread into a tapped hole in the housing. The gland itself should be 3 parts, (1) the base that threads into the housing (2) a rubber seal where the wires tightly pass through (3) a cap that compresses the rubber seal to the base. That compression squeezes around the wires preventing oil leakage and external contaminants from passing. That's how its done on industrial gearboxes. Don't know if that's how it was done by RAM.
 
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Jnull

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I think the best way to pass the wiring through a housing that contains oil is through a "wiring gland." This should thread into a tapped hole in the housing. The gland itself should be 3 parts, (1) the base that threads into the housing (2) a rubber seal where the wires tightly pass through (3) a cap that compresses the rubber seal to the base. That compression squeezes around the wires preventing oil leakage and external contaminants from passing. That's how its done on industrial gearboxes. Don't know if that's how it was done by RAM.

That sounds like the ticket right there, I’ll have to do some research to see what I can find. Thank you.
 

olyelr

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Here are some pics of the back side of the setup. Just by looking at it, I am not exactly sure how the heck it really works. But it looks as if the plug in connector slides in the house with some type of seal, and there is a metal bracket that wraps around it that is screwed to the housing.

F7F64B1D-273B-4328-9CFA-3423BB547F14.jpeg

DE22DF50-5E6E-4718-97F6-1E5EDFF4C0EC.jpeg
 
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Here are some pics of the back side of the setup. Just by looking at it, I am not exactly sure how the heck it really works. But it looks as if the plug in connector slides in the house with some type of seal, and there is a metal bracket that wraps around it that is screwed to the housing.

View attachment 193120

View attachment 193121

Great pics, thank you. Would be great if i could get my hands on that factory setup and just a pigtail of the male side of the plug
 

olyelr

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Great pics, thank you. Would be great if i could get my hands on that factory setup and just a pigtail of the male side of the plug


Looks to me like the trac-loc unit comes with that wiring. And you may only need to use two of the 4 wires, since two of them are for sensors and lights.

Here is a guy who did what you are wanting to do. He went through the diff cover with the wiring...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com...r-aka-power-wagon-locker-wiring-230011/page2/
 
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Looks to me like the trac-loc unit comes with that wiring. And you may only need to use two of the 4 wires, since two of them are for sensors and lights.

Here is a guy who did what you are wanting to do. He went through the diff cover with the wiring...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com...r-aka-power-wagon-locker-wiring-230011/page2/

I have read that write up and a couple others coming through the cover is popular but I just don’t like the simple grommet used, I have to be way more complicated I guess.

Got a link to the track loc?
 

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Seen rebuilt Power Wagon full axle (rear) assemblies for sale online and so that's an option too. I've purchased an entire rear axle truck assembly for a Chevrolet K1500 from a wrecking yard for cheap with good results. A wrecking yard just might have some PW differentials for a source of parts.
 
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olyelr

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Seen rebuilt Power Wagon full axle (rear) assemblies for sale online and so that's an option too. I've purchased an entire rear axle truck assembly for a Chevrolet K1500 from a wrecking yard for cheap with good results. A wrecking yard just might have some PW differentials for a source of parts.

yea i saw a rear for like $1500... but the front was over $4000.
 

olyelr

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I have read that write up and a couple others coming through the cover is popular but I just don’t like the simple grommet used, I have to be way more complicated I guess.

Got a link to the track loc?


Yea, the little grommet in the diff cover seems kinda cheesy to me.

I dont have a link to the diff, but the pics I have seen online have a short section of wiring with a plug on it.
 
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.
 
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