A/C don't work after cam/lifter swap

[OilMan2011]

My A/C worked fine until I changed out the cam and lifters. I didn't discharge or disconnect any A/C lines. I plugged the connector back in on the compressor. I checked the fuses and they were good. I swapped the relay with a good one and still nothing. I looked online for schematics and couldn't find one where I didn't have to pay. If anyone can help with a link for a schematic or some other tip I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[RamDiver]

My A/C worked fine until I changed out the cam and lifters. I didn't discharge or disconnect any A/C lines. I plugged the connector back in on the compressor. I checked the fuses and they were good. I swapped the relay with a good one and still nothing. I looked online for schematics and couldn't find one where I didn't have to pay. If anyone can help with a link for a schematic or some other tip I would greatly appreciate it.

Have you tried scanning for DTCs?

Sometimes an outstanding code will prevent remote starting or the AC from functioning.


A bad battery might do the same.
Load test with a toaster-style battery load tester like this $18 unit below.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Something is fishy with the HF link above. Try the following link, if necessary.
The $18 is the best for battery load testing.

Battery Testing - Harbor Freight Tools

Analyze your car batteries condition with Battery Testers from Harbor Freight. Easy-to-use. Easy-to-carry. Durable design.

www.harborfreight.com

A 2010 service manual is available at the link below.

Pdf service manual

Has anyone found a 4th generation service manual in a PDF format? If so can you please share the link? I can't get the McFall one to work on my phone. Thanks!

www.ramforum.com

.

 

[jws123]

Check the charge in the system before you do anything. You can also try to command the clutch on with a scantool.

 

[04fxdwgi]

^^^^ #1

Did you disconnect the condenser (in front of radiator) to install the cam? If you didn't, then moving the condenser around with hoses attached may have compromises one of the o-rings and blown the charge. Been there / done that.

 

[OilMan2011]

Thanks for all the help to everyone that replied. I went out and got a manifold gauge and checked the static pressure. Turns out the charge was at a zero. I couldn't see any obvious damage anywhere but I'm sure something got disturbed during the teardown process. I have a uv light so I'll shine it around and see if I find anything. Does the factory refrigerant come with dye?

^^^^ #1

Did you disconnect the condenser (in front of radiator) to install the cam? If you didn't, then moving the condenser around with hoses attached may have compromises one of the o-rings and blown the charge. Been there / done that.

 

[OilMan2011]

I found the problem. I must have gotten a little too rough one of the 20 times I stepped into and out of the space between the engine and radiator.

 

[jws123]

I found the problem. I must have gotten a little too rough one of the 20 times I stepped into and out of the space between the engine and radiator.

oooh thats bad looks like you may need to pull the dash and replace evaporator

 

[OilMan2011]

oooh thats bad looks like you may need to pull the dash and replace evaporator

Are there any shortcuts? Sawzall? LOL

 

[jws123]

Are there any shortcuts? Sawzall? LOL

nope no shortcuts ive tried The dash isnt to hard to move out of the way just time consuming alot of videos on it just make sure while your in there to replace the heater core.

Just confirm it broke off the evaporator it looks like it did from picture cant tell you may have just ripped the stud out.

 

[OilMan2011]

10-4. I'm not looking forward to it. Do you have any suggestions on whether to use OEM or any specific parts distributor?

 

[seems fishy]

OEM will fit perfectly.Sometimes aftermarket is perfect but sometimes you will have a part that works but will not fit as well as OEM

 

[seems fishy]

I would go OEM with an Evaporator

 

[jws123]

10-4. I'm not looking forward to it. Do you have any suggestions on whether to use OEM or any specific parts distributor?

I use whatever rockauto sells truck will rot in half before they fail again tbh Lol If OEM is cheap enough then sure.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Amazed you didn't hear the gas escaping and the fog from it.

Snapping that connection block off like that would have caused a rapid evacuation of the refrigerant. That also causes the compressor oil to migrate and evacuate, also with the refrigerant.

When repair is done, make sure compressor oil is added or the life of the compressor will be very short.

There is probably a mess in the A/C ducts / heater box, now too.

 

[PhilipElder]

I found the problem. I must have gotten a little too rough one of the 20 times I stepped into and out of the space between the engine and radiator.

Our 2016 blew the evaporator while still on warranty. There were none to be found as it turns out they were poorly designed and break easily.

The dealer said they had one from a wreck that they could use in the mean time. We went for it.

When checking for a replacement there's two generations for them. The newer generation looks to have some reinforcements around it. Make sure to get that one.

The used one in our truck is done again but since we put Momma into a newer car, and myself as well, the truck is being used for acreage chores so just me. I don't need A/C. ;-)