a/c not cooling proper

[sunnyd94]

Please help, I am new to this forum so sorry if i get this in wrong place.
2008 1500 quad cab with 5.7 with a/c disaster
My evap core blew a hole, so i removed dash and replaced, also replaced heater core and recirc. door while there. evac. system, recharged. Now it wont cool down below 50-48 degrees f.
After multiple tries of evac. system and recharge even with the big machine there was no change.
My compressor high side was only getting to 200psi max, low side was good about 35psi.
I decided must be compressor since some say thats too low so I replaced it, filter line with orphice tube, and dryer. Evac. system, recharged again, and again with no change still only getting 48 to 50 degrees f at vent.
I replaced recirc. door again because it had slight bend in it, replaced accuator motor, then I find out upon starting truck the second time the door was opening up about half way only when you started it up multiple times,, so i thought i found the problem. I then put new a/c control module, the door worked fine but it would not get cold. temp at vent still 48-50 degrees no matter how long you run the truck.
Finally today I replace condensor since that is the last piece of the system. I evac. the system, recharge, try it out with same results. max cold temp at vent 48 to 50,, and now my recirc. door will not open no matter what position you put it in.
My pressures seem ok high about 250 give or take,low 35-40
Has 27 ounces of 134
I have tried clamping heater hoses, duct tape on all extra holes around wiper blade area.
Does the computer or tipm box control any of this????
I dont no witch way to turn,,PLEASE HELP
PS, outside temps here have ranged from 95- 105

 

[SilverStreak88]

This is a long shot and I'm going through some similar issues. It might be possible that your A/C controls are not working properly. It seem that you've replaced everything that i would've said to replace, how long was your A/C system exposed to outside climate once the hole blew through?

 

[sunnyd94]

when the evaporator core first went out it took me about 4-5 days to get it changed and do the first vacuum on the system. After that when I installed other pieces it was never open over 30 min. before vacuum. And all parts have been changed except the line from evap. core to comp., and line from comp. to condensor, and line from condensor to the filter line, but filter line and filter or( orphice) has been changed.
Thanks for reply, any and all ideas are very welcome.

 

[sunnyd94]

When I replaced a/c controls, it did come from wrecking yard and seemed to work for a while, now recirc. door will not even open and before i changed it, it would automaticly open a little by itself when you turned a/c on. Even with door closed on recirculation setting the vent temp only getsdow n to 50 degrees at best.

 

[xb1230]

You need to account for the ambient temperature, as well as humidity level. You can only get a 35~40°F below ambient temp, especially more so if the humidity level is very high.

Did you replace the Accumulator/Dryer? This is one of the key component to help A/C performance when replacing any component if the system internals have been exposed to the element for while like in your case.

Have you changed the expansion valve? If the valve is restricted, refrigerant cannot flow through and the low side (which cools) could not get the temperature delta it is supposed to.

There can also be too much refrigerant oil in the system. That could explain the not low enough temps at the centre vent. You are taking measures at the centre vent right? Also the system should not be recirculation mode when taking the measurements.

That being said, here is a performance chart from my 2002's service manual:

It would seem you are pretty much in the right place with the temps you are getting...

If the system has been properly vacuum prior to recharge, it also properly holds that vacuum, and there were no signs of black death, debris, metal shards or other potential contaminants in the system, you should be in pretty good shape.

The vacuum part is potentially the most important one, along with replacing the accumulator/Dryer. But even the most seasoned A/C specialists can be baffled at some issues sometimes. A/C systems can be even more obnoxious than electrical issues... Although they can also be very closely related.

If you want further explanation and insight on what to look for, or what to do next to figure out your A/C problem, here is a link to a site I always refer to when looking for some detailed information on troubleshooting:
Eric the car guy - solving-automotive-hvac-problems

Hope you can figure it out.

 

[SilverStreak88]

When I replaced a/c controls, it did come from wrecking yard and seemed to work for a while, now recirc. door will not even open and before i changed it, it would automaticly open a little by itself when you turned a/c on. Even with door closed on recirculation setting the vent temp only getsdow n to 50 degrees at best.

So you have changed your controls? Were the controls in your truck bad? I've always been an advocate on RF and at home about replacing electrical in general with OEM. If you say that you got it from a salvage yard then it should've been OEM seeing as it would have come out of another truck like yours and I don't see why it would have failed unless it got moisture in it at the yard.

 

[SilverStreak88]

You need to account for the ambient temperature, as well as humidity level. You can only get a 35~40°F below ambient temp, especially more so if the humidity level is very high.

Did you replace the Accumulator/Dryer? This is one of the key component to help A/C performance when replacing any component if the system internals have been exposed to the element for while like in your case.

Have you changed the expansion valve? If the valve is restricted, refrigerant cannot flow through and the low side (which cools) could not get the temperature delta it is supposed to.

There can also be too much refrigerant oil in the system. That could explain the not low enough temps at the centre vent. You are taking measures at the centre vent right? Also the system should not be recirculation mode when taking the measurements.

That being said, here is a performance chart from my 2002's service manual:

It would seem you are pretty much in the right place with the temps you are getting...

If the system has been properly vacuum prior to recharge, it also properly holds that vacuum, and there were no signs of black death, debris, metal shards or other potential contaminants in the system, you should be in pretty good shape.

The vacuum part is potentially the most important one, along with replacing the accumulator/Dryer. But even the most seasoned A/C specialists can be baffled at some issues sometimes. A/C systems can be even more obnoxious than electrical issues... Although they can also be very closely related.

If you want further explanation and insight on what to look for, or what to do next to figure out your A/C problem, here is a link to a site I always refer to when looking for some detailed information on troubleshooting:
Eric the car guy - solving-automotive-hvac-problems

Hope you can figure it out.

+1 on Eric The Car Guy, lot's of knowledge there.

 

[sunnyd94]

Yes, dryer was changed, ill check on expansion valve to make sure . I thought it was part of or.phice tube and hose. Oil im not sure of anymore, when i first changed evaporator core i added 2 1/2 oz , i was trying to add 1 and made mistake. After replacing condensor, compressor, dryer, orphice hose i have added 5 oz. I was told 1oz per new componet, and not to worry since running vacuum takes some out.
5 times a vacuum and recharge with small pump and guages. 4 times at shop with big machine and it holds vacuum good. Vent temp is definetily low as of last year i have a thermometer in it, and check it with multiple vehicles. i will check out Erics video right now and its going to shop#5 in morning as you say everyone seems baffeled.
Thanks for the info, it will all be looked at again.

 

[sunnyd94]

Im not even sure if control was bad. I found it was opening the fresh air door about a inch only after the second time i would start truck with A/c on, witch it should not, unless i move to defrost or feet or something. So thats why i changed it, i thought i found the problem, Now with the second one that was working properly for 2 days, now the door is stuck in the closed position, (no fresh air can come in) at all. It will not move no matter what position control is in. Thats why i asked if the computer,or tipm modeum has anything to do with a/c.

 

[justin13703]

Im not even sure if control was bad. I found it was opening the fresh air door about a inch only after the second time i would start truck with A/c on, witch it should not, unless i move to defrost or feet or something. So thats why i changed it, i thought i found the problem, Now with the second one that was working properly for 2 days, now the door is stuck in the closed position, (no fresh air can come in) at all. It will not move no matter what position control is in. Thats why i asked if the computer,or tipm modeum has anything to do with a/c.

Mine was doing this, it would only move half way and stop or move one way or the other and not move again. It was either the door or the motor, I'm not sure exactly which one because the dealership sells the entire new recirc box assembly with the door and motor for like 70 bucks. So I just replaced the whole thing and that fixed my problem

 

[sunnyd94]

Update, got back from shop #5 today,with no change. Said its at max cooling thats its able to produce and they too dont no why it only gets cool. 20-25 below ambient temp. They said all is working as it should.
My only thought now is the new aftermarket evaporator core must have a malfunction, dont no what else to try.

 

[xb1230]

On his site Eric does have a video on cleaning the condenser which raises the efficiency of the system. If your condenser is original and may have seen a lot of miles of road dirt it could potentially help if you clean it out.

That requires a special product that doesn't damage aluminium so don't just go and throw a high pressure hose at the thing you could risk damaging it.

As for the expansion valve, it is also called the orifice tube. If you changed the orifice tube you are in good shape. That being said since the expansion valve is what creates the temperature differential, if you installed an after market one it could be not quite up to spec on what the actual system expects, and maybe putting in an OEM one would help improve the whole thing. Just another idea. Keep in mind that the expansion valve is what generate the pressure differential hence the cooling of the gas in the system. As such it is a key component of the complete system's performance.

Hope this helps.

 

[sunnyd94]

update on ac

Just want to update on my a/c problem.
never,never,never use napa a/c replacement core.
this turned out to be the whole problem.
I started over from the first part i replaced witch was the a/c core witch started the problem and the napa has about half the coils of the mopar stock one, giving me half the cooling power.
A costly, long drug out mistake on my part.
BUY MOPAR PARTS