Adding Seafoam into a Hemi prior to an oil change

[JimmyP]

You could be right, but I need better logic to buy it then I had it done 12k miles ago. I would check them again if it were me. Fresh oils has vii's that are like super lubricators until they break. It is possible you have a lifter far out of tolerance which would tick despite these features of fresh oil, but generally speaking any oil change usually produces differing ticks and different time. Can you have someone try a couple different rpm's in park with you listening from the side of engine bay? see what rpm's stop tick. did it tick right when the pedal was off throttle.

I'll try to get a video this week. The tick is much more noticeable at certain RPM's. Below 2000 not too bad, pretty loud above 2000. Hit 3000 and it's very loud. Not getting the loud tick on startup that quiets down later like I did when the exhaust manifold bolts were sheared. It's consistent when the engine is cold and warm.

This redline isn't cheap, but should I change it more frequently and keep trying the lubeguard? I'm currently changing after the computer indicates 10% engine oil life left.

More internet searches are turning up the controversy of seafoam in the oil so I'm feeling less confident about that...

 

[Burla]

I'll try to get a video this week. The tick is much more noticeable at certain RPM's. Below 2000 not too bad, pretty loud above 2000. Hit 3000 and it's very loud. Not getting the loud tick on startup that quiets down later like I did when the exhaust manifold bolts were sheared. It's consistent when the engine is cold and warm.

This redline isn't cheap, but should I change it more frequently and keep trying the lubeguard? I'm currently changing after the computer indicates 10% engine oil life left.

More internet searches are turning up the controversy of seafoam in the oil so I'm feeling less confident about that...

good info, this is completely different then 99% of hemi tick that is lifter related. As rpm's go up nearly every lifter tick goes away, and always are present at low rpm's. I wish I could be more help, sounds like whatever you find is more rare then what most of us have. I doubt sea foam will hurt, I don't think it will help because if it was cleaning you needed, I think it would be at low rpm's as well, but that is such a stout oil a little solvent wont hurt anything. You probably should drain the oil after that, good luck either way. I'd want to get a mechanic eyes on that.

 

[ramffml]

I'll try to get a video this week. The tick is much more noticeable at certain RPM's. Below 2000 not too bad, pretty loud above 2000. Hit 3000 and it's very loud. Not getting the loud tick on startup that quiets down later like I did when the exhaust manifold bolts were sheared. It's consistent when the engine is cold and warm.

This redline isn't cheap, but should I change it more frequently and keep trying the lubeguard? I'm currently changing after the computer indicates 10% engine oil life left.

More internet searches are turning up the controversy of seafoam in the oil so I'm feeling less confident about that...

Bit of a long shot, is it possible something is actually rattling around? A loose shield or something that rattles worse due to engine vibrations?

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Have you pulled a valve cover off on the side that the noise can be heard from by using a mechanic Stethoscope, have someone bring the idle up to 2000, 3000 and you should hear the side with the problem, check rocker arm movement between cylinders.

 

[Burla]

I'm not sure who Corey is, but I take it he just didn't run another test after that?

just saw this, hemi395 is corey and he just didnt finish that one test. I would bet that does bother him and someday he will finish it. His latest test Ruthenium spark plugs in place of copper.

Part of the issue is BITOG banning me for like nothing before that test was done, so I doubt corey would follow up there, up to him. I'd support him posting the results there if he felt like it.

 

[Kickboxer]

The only place Seafoam belongs is in the gas tank. I usually use 2 cans per
year in various things, especially small engines. Todays unleaded gas is a real
stinker, it does bad things.........

 

[Sherman Bird]

I was just asking if ATS you spoke of was like using sea foam in the gas. My girlfriend bought some seafoam for her fusion but I’m undecided on if I think that’s a good idea to put in with the gas.

ATS Chemical

Official manufacturer of Bernie Thompson’s (Automotive Test Solutions) engine carbon cleaning chemicals for the auto industry located in Albuquerque New Mexico. 505 CRF, 505 CRO, 505 Pour-In

www.atschemicals.com

 

[Sherman Bird]

Toyota has a similar advisement.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 74797 miles

ALL manufacturers advise against flushing. GM, specifically, admonishes against additives, too, IIRC.
I don't have any pat answer that becomes THE pill for all ails.

I do remember the standard transmissions of yesteryear that would be VERY stiff to shift when cold, especially when the air temps dropped below about 40F or so.
Remembering GM's debacle of putting ATF (Dexron III) in stick shift cars in the mid 70's, I routinely drained the thin as water ATF and replaced it with 30W motor oil doctored with a sulfur based additive when I replaced a clutch, and/or rebuilt the transmission. This cured the stiff cold shifting problem with cold related stiff shifts, and the additive ensured longevity. Inasmuch as I routinely work on customer cars whose patronage I can measure in decades, I get to see real world results, and this one was a homerun.

 

[Wild one]

ALL manufacturers advise against flushing. GM, specifically, admonishes against additives, too, IIRC.
I don't have any pat answer that becomes THE pill for all ails.

I do remember the standard transmissions of yesteryear that would be VERY stiff to shift when cold, especially when the air temps dropped below about 40F or so.
Remembering GM's debacle of putting ATF (Dexron III) in stick shift cars in the mid 70's, I routinely drained the thin as water ATF and replaced it with 30W motor oil doctored with a sulfur based additive when I replaced a clutch, and/or rebuilt the transmission. This cured the stiff cold shifting problem with cold related stiff shifts, and the additive ensured longevity. Inasmuch as I routinely work on customer cars whose patronage I can measure in decades, I get to see real world results, and this one was a homerun.

We ran 50W in the transmissions of grain trucks on the farm.The first couple shifts at -35 were a bit nasty to make,but by the time you'd made a mile with them loaded,they smoothed out on the shifts.The 2 speed diffs were another story,they needed a good 5 miles before you attempted to shift them,lol

 

[Kickboxer]

ALL manufacturers advise against flushing. GM, specifically, admonishes against additives, too, IIRC.
I don't have any pat answer that becomes THE pill for all ails.

I do remember the standard transmissions of yesteryear that would be VERY stiff to shift when cold, especially when the air temps dropped below about 40F or so.
Remembering GM's debacle of putting ATF (Dexron III) in stick shift cars in the mid 70's, I routinely drained the thin as water ATF and replaced it with 30W motor oil doctored with a sulfur based additive when I replaced a clutch, and/or rebuilt the transmission. This cured the stiff cold shifting problem with cold related stiff shifts, and the additive ensured longevity. Inasmuch as I routinely work on customer cars whose patronage I can measure in decades, I get to see real world results, and this one was a homerun.

Sherman:
You are in the deep south, Houston, most of the country is much
farther north and colder. So, I do hope those watching realize that.
Up north in -25 we need proper oils or they will not work or they will
fail.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Sherman:
You are in the deep south, Houston, most of the country is much
farther north and colder. So, I do hope those watching realize that.
Up north in -25 we need proper oils or they will not work or they will
fail.

29.7499 Latitude... South, but not deep south. Zone 9

 

[TerraNewf]

ALL manufacturers have a "standing" TSB against flushing anything. They do not WANT their vehicles to last! Otherwise, they would collectively be "out of a job". That is a quote I heard from a GM engineer 40 years ago.

The world of automotive reality has changed radically in those 40 years. Physics is still rock solid consistent. I had a customer who was a retired GM driveline engineer. He had a crew cab truck that I performed some work on. Under the hood were 2 homemade boxes with hoses running in and out and electric cooling fans on both. one was an ATF oil cooler and the other was an engine oil cooler. See, he knew that heat was/is the greatest enemy of fluids. He had me pull the transmission dipstick and take note that the fluid was pure pretty red and looked brand spanking new. He informed me that this fluid was original with over 90K miles on the clock and him pulling a goose neck travel camper trailer behind this truck.

Engine oil, unfortunately, has other factors that exacerbate it's demise. Keeping motor oil cool does help, but it still gets contaminated with combustion by products.

All the prattle aside, I've noted that vehicles I've owned and those which I've maintained for others over the years have benefitted more from regular maintenance intervals being adhered to AND the truly worthy additives being used.

My 2004 Truck with 165K miles on the clock certainly does better with the additives. I'll continue to flush and change fluids on it.

Great information, is your 1998 a 318?

 

[Sherman Bird]

Great information, is your 1998 a 318?

It is. I rebuilt the motor about 17 years ago while the truck was owned by a previous owner. At this time, it is sitting at a buddy's body shop in need of a new roof. The original roof is thin and perforated like swiss cheese.

 

[Justin33]

Sherman:
You are in the deep south, Houston, most of the country is much
farther north and colder. So, I do hope those watching realize that.
Up north in -25 we need proper oils or they will not work or they will
fail.

Yep east coast is a lil diff then the south.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Yep east coast is a lil diff then the south.

My late Paternal Grandfather was born and raised just south of Buffalo, New York, in a farming community close to Lake Erie. He told stories of hard as hell winters involving "Lake Effect Snow" where snow drifts dwarfed homes. He also told me that he never missed that brutal cold weather.

At 70 years of age, I kind of "get it" that things are different from where I live as opposed to where you all "up north" folks dwell.

But, I get it that one's origin is akin to a "badge of honor". I don't really put that much stock in it, though, at least for me. (I don't possess a gray military uniform! )

To address the gist of this conversation, oil and fuel are formulated for the temperature of the environment they exist in.

Interestingly, A GM engineer once commented to me that the harsh environs of Houston, Texas' region should qualify it as a "test ground" for beta testing automobiles!

 

[Kickboxer]

And in the north many car companies test in International Falls, MN, for cold weather testing. Opposite parts of the world.
Sherman, have you ever started a vehicle in the cold, put it into
gear and waited many seconds before it would even move ?
30 wt. oil, I don't think so.

 

[Sherman Bird]

And in the north many car companies test in International Falls, MN, for cold weather testing. Opposite parts of the world.
Sherman, have you ever started a vehicle in the cold, put it into
gear and waited many seconds before it would even move ?
30 wt. oil, I don't think so.

I appreciate that you deem me as never experiencing cold weather. Truth is, I have. Our record cold here, in December, 1989 was 6 degrees F for a week, with precipitation/ ice. Wind chills put us at nearly -20F. Ice on the roads made clowns out of thousands of drivers, due to lack of knowledge. My shop (uninsulated rental building) was impossible to heat with a 300,000 BTU heater. (2500 sq ft)

I hated it with a passion. The freeze of Feb., 2021 here for 3 days was bad, too. Again, I hated it.

YES, I have had to wait for a while before the ATF would flow enough to engage an automatic transmission and make the car move. That isn't a good thing.

The reason that the GM engineer lamented his thought on SE Texas as a testing ground is that we have weird weather all the time where the temp can be in the mid 80s and drop to the low 20s in under 30 minutes. THAT has happened often here. Wild temperature/ humidity swings have, according to this engineer, left their research people perplexed about some off the wall failures.

In closing, 30W oil here is a bad idea after the 1st of December. It's not as crucial as it is up yonder ways where you reside. After all, that year of that record 6 degree/windy weather in Houston? It was preceded by balmy mid- 80s temps the prior week. Crazy, eh? Peace!

 

[Barr2255]

It won’t hurt anything, is it needed probably not. I use seafoam in my boats fuel and all my small motors but that’s about it. It’s a great product when used properly.

As far as the manufacturer saying not to add any additives is BS they also say the 8speed transmission has life time fluid

If you do run the seafoam follow the directions.

 

[Kickboxer]

I also like Seafoam for a fuel cleaner, preservative. But don't
use Seafoam in the oil before an oil change. Today's engines run
clean, and don't need it anything at all.
If you are looking to clean up combustion chamber, valve deposits,
that is an entirely new subject.

 

[Wild one]

If you are looking to clean up combustion chamber, valve deposits,
that is an entirely new subject.

Clue us in to your theories on cleaning the combustion chamber.