Adding Seafoam into a Hemi prior to an oil change

[mevans21]

Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.

 

[Jerrybob]

Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.

Are you having an issue? Run a good syn oil......forget the Seafoam.

 

[mevans21]

Yes I am, was just a question if it’s a benefit to adding engine life.

 

[Kickboxer]

Todays engines and oils help make the engine very clean. Don't put any additives
in the oil.

 

[Burla]

Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.

The best way to use sea foam is through the vac lines, probably the best way to clean the combustion chamber. The other two options is dump in oil or dump in fuel. The least useful thing to do with sea foam is use in gas, for that I would try si-1 redline a high PEA %, way better strategy then adding a weak solvent to gas. Now, you didnt mention which application type you were going to do of these 3 or what the issue is, can you expand on what you are thinking?

 

[ramffml]

The best way to use sea foam is through the vac lines, probably the best way to clean the combustion chamber. The other two options is dump in oil or dump in fuel. The least useful thing to do with sea foam is use in gas, for that I would try si-1 redline a high PEA %, way better strategy then adding a weak solvent to gas. Now, you didnt mention which application type you were going to do of these 3 or what the issue is, can you expand on what you are thinking?

Whatever happened to this test you did on bitog, I'm kinda curious lol:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/redline-si-1-boroscoped-i-week-later.316699/page-3

 

[Burla]

ask corey, lol

 

[ramffml]

I'm not sure who Corey is, but I take it he just didn't run another test after that?

 

[Scottly]

Did the owners manual tell you to add Seafoam? Therein lies your answer.

 

[FL-RAM]

The owner's manual specifically says not to add and additives. That sounds like something that could actually effect your warranty if you end up having an engine problem and it's discovered that you've been putting stuff in the oil.
From the owner's manual:

The manufacturer strongly recommends against the addition of any additives (other than leak detection dyes) to the engine oil. Engine oil is an engineered product and its performance may be impaired by supplemental additives

 

[Sherman Bird]

Hello, looking for feedback with regards to adding Seafoam in my Hemi a little prior to an oil change..
I’m told it helps clean out any possible clogged up debris.

I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.

I don't care what type of oil you use.... nature (physics) trumps everything!

 

[Ron Boggio]

FCA has a current standing Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 26-001-18 advising against Fluid Flushing with exception of coolant that has sediment. The bulletin is very specific in date starting with the 2005 model year to current production. The bulletin specifically calls out the impact and resulting contamination of the component fluid due to the break down of the seals from the flush compound. Calling out a specific model year tells me FCA changed the seal i.e. the compound that forms the seal. There is some "general" component across flushing products that has a negative reaction with the seal causing it breaks down.

 

[Mister Luck]

The main concern I think is MDS lifters and the oil passages inside.



If regular maintenance schedules are followed using recommended fluid's at the prescribed interval changes including sever use recommendations. The engine shouldn’t see any significant wear or malfunctions.

Protect your engine by using researched quality replacement fluids if preforming maintenance yourself other wise use your dealership for authentic MOPAR fluids and components
Most of the time you can’t go wrong using OEM parts as long as you save your receipts and have mechanical labor performed by a certified technician at the dealership or approved warranty independent service garage.

 

[Kickboxer]

I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.

I don't care what type of oil you use.... nature (physics) trumps everything!

This is BS, so for those watching, don't do it.
I fully comdemn the idea.....

 

[IDSandman]

I fully endorse using a pre oil change product such as Sea Foam. Add 1 ounce per quart to the oil just before you change the oil and run the engine at 1500 RPM for about 15 minutes. The chemical will help emulsify the traces of sludge formed due to the hygroscopic nature of a hot engine cooling off and condensing water inside and keep it in suspension while the oil drains. Also, the air flowing through the PCV gets super cooled due to delta effect and tends to build up sludge. This is why many manufacturers heat the PCV.

I don't care what type of oil you use.... nature (physics) trumps everything!

Forgive me as I’m fairly new here. What relation to FCA do you have or what certifications to “fully endorse “ this method? That statement means you are affiliated with one or more entities this method is involved with. Truly curious, not being a smarty pants. Especially since the TSA Ron posted directly contradicts your “endorsement “.
I was thinking of doing this then found that TSA and decided against it.

 

[Oliver Closehauf]

I wouldn't put seafoam in a motor that is OBDII or later, but I did put it in the 318 in the 71 Dodge Dart "*******" I bought in the 80's and it was fantastic stuff. Put half in the oil, 1500 rpm for 15 minutes like Sherman Bird said and the rest through vacuum lines going into the intake. Pour it in fast enough to get some stumbling but no faster until it's all gone and let it run a few minutes more to make sure there aren't any puddles in the intake. Immediately drain the oil.

The difference under the valve covers was dramatic and the black goo that came out of the oil pan was really nasty.

Motor ran great until I sold the car. Should have kept it.

WTF, why is the word s-w-i-n-g-e-r being starred out on a Dodge truck site?

 

[Sherman Bird]

Forgive me as I’m fairly new here. What relation to FCA do you have or what certifications to “fully endorse “ this method? That statement means you are affiliated with one or more entities this method is involved with. Truly curious, not being a smarty pants. Especially since the TSA Ron posted directly contradicts your “endorsement “.
I was thinking of doing this then found that TSA and decided against it.

46 years as an ASE Master L1, GM Master, GMC Truck expert technician. Formally trained at GM and Ford factory schools, Many independent educational professional "keep up with technology" courses. Owning my own shop and actively using these products in my own and customers' cars. Seeing before and after in engines when I do internal repairs and see how clean these products keep the internal workings of engines. E.G. I replaced a leaky oil pan gasket on a 2002 Taurus 3.0L "U" engine. At high mileage and having used the cleaning products on it (BG in this case) along with BG additives. The pistons and rods were perfectly clean as new, the inside of the oil pan and block surfaces were shiny and impressively clean given the high mileage on the odometer. This is only one of many examples where I've seen no varnish or sludge inside due to diligent periodic maintenance.

Seafoam, BG, and ATS (Automotive Test Solutions) additives have been the ones I chiefly use because they work for me and my customers. I recently put a bottle of ATS fuel additive in my wife's car and a customer's car (both Kia Sorentos). ATS also makes a very good oil change treatment such as seafoam, only WAY better. It is very effective on GDI engines. The customer has absolutely raved about how the car runs as good as it did new! I have a large following of customer with very high mileage on their cars and they still run perfectly, and these customers routinely go on long trips in dependable cars which have had superior maintenance.

 

[Mister Luck]

46 years as an ASE Master L1, GM Master, GMC Truck expert technician. Formally trained at GM and Ford factory schools, Many independent educational professional "keep up with technology" courses. Owning my own shop and actively using these products in my own and customers' cars. Seeing before and after in engines when I do internal repairs and see how clean these products keep the internal workings of engines. E.G. I replaced a leaky oil pan gasket on a 2002 Taurus 3.0L "U" engine. At high mileage and having used the cleaning products on it (BG in this case) along with BG additives. The pistons and rods were perfectly clean as new, the inside of the oil pan and block surfaces were shiny and impressively clean given the high mileage on the odometer. This is only one of many examples where I've seen no varnish or sludge inside due to diligent periodic maintenance.

Seafoam, BG, and ATS (Automotive Test Solutions) additives have been the ones I chiefly use because they work for me and my customers. I recently put a bottle of ATS fuel additive in my wife's car and a customer's car (both Kia Sorentos). ATS also makes a very good oil change treatment such as seafoam, only WAY better. It is very effective on GDI engines. The customer has absolutely raved about how the car runs as good as it did new! I have a large following of customer with very high mileage on their cars and they still run perfectly, and these customers routinely go on long trips in dependable cars which have had superior maintenance.

The treatments you add to the vehicles you mentioned are still routinely changed at specified intervals.?
Are any of the aforementioned vehicles candidates for severe duty maintenance ?

We all have one or the other favored brands and when it comes right down to the similarity we all change on schedule whether earlier than later for severe or extreme duty it is a measure of sensibility.

There really is no substitute for consistency in maintenance.

 

[GTyankee]

I can't remember when i added an additive to an engines Crankcase

I do know that it was not a daily driver, more likely it was a flipper that i picked up some where.

On the other hand, i have used SEA Foam or Berrymans in the gas tanks on almost all my vehicles.
I believe it helps keep the Carburetors & Fuel Injectors cleaner
The dealership charges almost $200. to clean the Fuel Injection System & i never noticed the engine acting any different

 

[Sherman Bird]

I can't remember when i added an additive to an engines Crankcase

I do know that it was not a daily driver, more likely it was a flipper that i picked up some where.

On the other hand, i have used SEA Foam or Berrymans in the gas tanks on almost all my vehicles.
I believe it helps keep the Carburetors & Fuel Injectors cleaner
The dealership charges almost $200. to clean the Fuel Injection System & i never noticed the engine acting any different

GM has a product currently labeled as an assembly lube, but it once was sold as an additive. It has the consistency of tepid molasses. It contains Zinc Phosphate. Inasmuch as EPA has mandated much lower levels of ZDPP in gasoline engine lubricants, this is a loophole to allow its legal sale under a different nomenclature. I buy it by the case and use it in all non VVT engines. Over the long haul, ZDPP will slightly shorten the life of a catalytic converter. Which is cheaper? A new catalytic converter? Or a new/rebuilt engine? I leave that up to my customers after they become well informed.

One such car I've known since it was new is a 24 year old, very high mileage Honda Accord. It still has it's original catalytic converter and passes emissions each year. Although it is an n of 1, and that puts this car into the category of anecdotal.

I own high mileage, older cars which all get my slew of additives. Kind of an irony that my mpg exceeds or meets EPA assessment for these cars when new. They all run well and in Houston's extreme climate to boot.

Your lack of memory concerning never adding anything to the crankcase might have merit if you have owned a vehicle from new through 150K miles and disassembled the engine partially to see if there was any sludge anywhere or varnish. Maybe you have, but didn't mention it. I have many times, disassembled high mileage engines and seen first hand, the benefits of consistent maintenance on not just the oil, but regular coolant/thermostat replacement as well, along with timely induction cleaning and ignition maintenance (spark plugs chiefly).

The above mentioned Honda has had every one of these maintenances done in a timely, consistent manner. Other vehicles in my customer lineup which has had the same attention to care have all lasted a very long time and logged many many miles with low levels of issues other than normal wear and tear. None of these other vehicles are as old as the Honda, but almost all have as many miles on them.