Aftermarket, DIY, or 3rd Party Aux wiring connectors?

[Intense-Dakota]

I have a 2014 2500 with the factory AUX (upfitter) switches and harness. However, when I purchased the truck, the AUX wire harness was not in the floor storage, and it was too late by the time I noticed to raise the issue with the stealership.

I want to install a light bar, but I am I am having a hard time justifying the $60+ dollars that FCA wants for the wire harness. Even on e-bay it is usually more than $50.

I am wondering if anyone has found (or made) the under-the-hood wire end that is needed to connect into the block? I believe it is the ones in the lower left of this image below.

 

[joshuaeb09]

If you can find the right pins you should be able to terminate your own wires to use with the factory outputs under the hood. The rest of the harness is for PTO among other things.

 

[chrisbh17]

https://www.fcausfleet.com/content/...2017/ssv/pdfs/RAM_1500_SSV_Upfitter_Guide.pdf

Im not sure if all of the connectors, pins, etc they refer to are there on a standard 1500 or not.

Do take note of the temperature de-rating "asterisks". As I look into wiring aftermarket heated seats, Im starting to question the size of the wiring vs fuse capacity.

Example: the rear heated seats are on a 25A fuse, but the wiring is most likely 14 gauge. All of the ampacity charts show 12ga *might* work but 10 ga would be safe.

 

[Intense-Dakota]

If you can find the right pins you should be able to terminate your own wires to use with the factory outputs under the hood. The rest of the harness is for PTO among other things.

The "pins" is precisely what I am trying to find.

Do take note of the temperature de-rating "asterisks". As I look into wiring aftermarket heated seats, Im starting to question the size of the wiring vs fuse capacity.

Thanks.
BTW - The aux switches should be connected to a relay, not directly to the device drawing the load. The relay will have the larger, heaver gauge, wires and fuse.

 

[chrisbh17]

The "pins" is precisely what I am trying to find.




Thanks.
BTW - The aux switches should be connected to a relay, not directly to the device drawing the load. The relay will have the larger, heaver gauge, wires and fuse.

Yeah, but in the example I used, there is only a fuse AFAIK. The "relaying" is the module that is under the drivers seat, which is probably about 10 feet away (in wiring length). AFAIK 14 ga wire cannot carry that kind of amperage, safely. I think the heated seat module regulates how much current goes to the seat heaters just to keep it under what the wiring can actually support. But that is bad practice, IMHO. Make the fuse smaller or the wiring larger, dont rely on a module to keep the current in check, modules break.

 

[Dbezzek524]

We’re you ever able to figure out what pin or wiring connector was needed for this project?

 

[Intense-Dakota]

We’re you ever able to figure out what pin or wiring connector was needed for this project?

No, I actually ended up trading my 2500 for a Rebel.