Alright guys.. BILSTEINS post your pics!!!

[Gary2]

The 3/4" spacer I received from TGC was identical to the spacers I had on hand for my Jeep Wrangler TJs . On the TJ they go on top of the spring but on the Ram they go on the bottom on the axle spring mount. After it was installed it was not quite as tall as I wanted so I swapped it for one of my 1" 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ spacers. You can go on Ebay and pick out the size spacer ya want for the axle end of the spring .

 

[SeriousBlack]

Bilstein set at 2.8 in the front and 1" TGC spacer in the rear with stock shocks.


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Looks great! Can't wait to do the same! Did you do the UCA's?

 

[2016 OutDoorsman]

Did you special order the 1" spacer?

I emailed them for the part number and they told me they only make a .75 and 1.5" spacer.



But, only the .75 spacer is on their site.

I picked the spacers up from Amazon, I just looked up a part number that was given to me a while back and ordered. I will look for the part number


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[develand]

Bils set to 2.1 with 20x9 +1 wheels and 35x11.5 tires.







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[UGAFAN]

R.L.K. & UGAFAN, are you running the stock shocks with the 1" spacer?

If not, which shock are you running?



Also, which 1" spacers would you go to?

My initial search is only finding 1.5" spacers and springs. With the price of those spacers, I may look a replacing the springs with Icon or something with a progressive spring.

I'm running Bilstein 5100s front and rear. The rears are 1" longer.

Here is the link to the spacers I have in the rear. Fits 2016 and 2017 as well.
http://www.topguncustomz.com/i-2549...om/search.html?q=1%22+coil+lift+ram&go=Search


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[ivey_usmc]

I'm running Bilstein 5100s front and rear. The rears are 1" longer.

Here is the link to the spacers I have in the rear. Fits 2016 and 2017 as well.
1" 09-15 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Rear Steel Coil Lift Spacers


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Thanks. Im ordering these now

 

[ivey_usmc]

Shipping was $26!! on a $61 Part

 

[UGAFAN]

Shipping was $26!! on a $61 Part

Wow.... I should have mentioned I got that part off Amazon... just was showing the link to which spacer I used.


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[ivey_usmc]

Wow.... I should have mentioned I got that part off Amazon... just was showing the link to which spacer I used.


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That would of been nice

 

[UPSTrucker13]

I'm running bilsteins 5100s @ +2.8" up front and a 1.5" coil spring spacer in the back on factory wheel & tires .

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Thank You! I have your exact same set up waiting to be installed (bils @ 2.8 and 1.5 rear spacer). Your pic really helps on tire size decisions.

 

[R.L.K.]

Thank You! I have your exact same set up waiting to be installed (bils @ 2.8 and 1.5 rear spacer). Your pic really helps on tire size decisions.

With that set up you can run 35x12.50 on stock wheels , just have 10 mm /1/4 spacers for up front just in case a slight rub is felt at full lock .

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[wobly]

I thought I would throw my experience into the pool on what happened this weekend.

I have a 2015 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman. I installed the Bilsteins at the 2.1 setting at around 1000 miles on the truck along with BFG KO2's two years ago.

I have about 38,000 miles on the truck now and I had a little bit of a rattle or "looseness" in the front end that I mainly felt when going over the cracks in the road at low speeds. That caused me to start researching what it could be and I came across this thread. I suspected it was a loose strut nut, or something around there. With the info I gained here, I tore into the truck this past Saturday. I started by spraying the top bolts with WD-40 a couple of nights ahead of time. Then, on Saturday morning, I used my HF camera/scope to look at the strut mount bolts to see if I could see a washer under the top nut. I couldn't see the washer, but knowing me, I would naturally put a washer directly under the nut and on top of the isolator plate. Since I couldn't see a washer, I decided to tighten the top strut nut. I was surprised at how much I could move the nut and tighten it down some. After driving around the block a few times, I realized, I hadn't fixed the problem. I actually made the noise worse. So, I pulled out the spring compressor and got to work completely disassembling the strut assemblies. Sure enough, the washer was directly under the nut instead of being on top of the strut rod, but below the isolator plate. I only had one real problem and that was the allen key socket on the top of the passenger side strut rod was rounded out. So, I ended up hammering a screwdriver into the hole and holding it to remove and reinstall the nut with a deepwell socket held by vice-grips.

Afterwards, there was a marked improvement in a more "solid" feel to the front end. I didn't notice the cracks in the road and we even went driving over a dirt trail yesterday without any clunking or rattling.

 

[dan1911]

I thought I would throw my experience into the pool on what happened this weekend.

I have a 2015 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman. I installed the Bilsteins at the 2.1 setting at around 1000 miles on the truck along with BFG KO2's two years ago.

I have about 38,000 miles on the truck now and I had a little bit of a rattle or "looseness" in the front end that I mainly felt when going over the cracks in the road at low speeds. That caused me to start researching what it could be and I came across this thread. I suspected it was a loose strut nut, or something around there. With the info I gained here, I tore into the truck this past Saturday. I started by spraying the top bolts with WD-40 a couple of nights ahead of time. Then, on Saturday morning, I used my HF camera/scope to look at the strut mount bolts to see if I could see a washer under the top nut. I couldn't see the washer, but knowing me, I would naturally put a washer directly under the nut and on top of the isolator plate. Since I couldn't see a washer, I decided to tighten the top strut nut. I was surprised at how much I could move the nut and tighten it down some. After driving around the block a few times, I realized, I hadn't fixed the problem. I actually made the noise worse. So, I pulled out the spring compressor and got to work completely disassembling the strut assemblies. Sure enough, the washer was directly under the nut instead of being on top of the strut rod, but below the isolator plate. I only had one real problem and that was the allen key socket on the top of the passenger side strut rod was rounded out. So, I ended up hammering a screwdriver into the hole and holding it to remove and reinstall the nut with a deepwell socket held by vice-grips.

Afterwards, there was a marked improvement in a more "solid" feel to the front end. I didn't notice the cracks in the road and we even went driving over a dirt trail yesterday without any clunking or rattling.

I had a similar experience man, and thanks to the guys on this forum I got it all sorted out as well.
Glad to hear you got the truck driving how it should!

 

[R.L.K.]

@ wobly , fantastic news !

Question for you Sir .

So you drove about 37k with the washer in the wrong location , did you need to replace any worn parts ?
I would think the piece that slides down in contact with the washer (when the washer is in the correct location) would've worn a hole through it or at least would've damaged it some what ...

If so can you post up the P/N of those pieces , just in case anyone else runs into this issue in the future ...

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[wobly]

@ wobly , fantastic news !

Question for you Sir .

So you drove about 37k with the washer in the wrong location , did you need to replace any worn parts ?
I would think the piece that slides down in contact with the washer (when the washer is in the correct location) would've worn a hole through it or at least would've damaged it some what ...

If so can you post up the P/N of those pieces , just in case anyone else runs into this issue in the future ...

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I thought the same thing...that I would have damaged parts or elongated holes in the isolator plate. But, no damage that I could see. I even took the plate and tried to push it down on the strut rod to see if it slid up and down without the washer and it didn't. I was extremely lucky not to damage anything after so many miles.

And thank you to R.L.K for his very informative posts throughout this thread that got me on track with troubleshooting the rattle/clunk symptoms!

 

[R.L.K.]

Well that's great news !

Thanks for the kind words Sir .

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[R.L.K.]

I believe this is the post wobly is referring to , it's post #26 here WAY back in the beginning of this awesome thread .



☆☆☆☆☆Post #26 Below☆☆☆☆☆☆




Hope this helps someone!

MY BILSTEIN INSTALLATION @ +2.8"


My Ram : 2014 4X4 QC 5.7L 6 SPEED XSMN 3.55 DIFFERENTIALS

Bilsteins set @ + 2.8 " top ring . Bought new from a member here .

Installed Mevotech UCA'S for cheep insurance. $100.00 for the pair from www.rockauto.com Painted them with 3ea coats of VHT Chassis paint from Autozone .

Almost a perfect level for me .
Front 39.25"
Rear 39.5 "
I got 2.75" of lift @ the 2.8" setting . Have been installed for aprox 7,000 miles and I've had very little settling . Maybe 1/4"
☆☆☆☆EDIT☆☆☆☆
It's been about 25,000 miles now , still rides GREAT and I'd say less than a 3/8" of settling actually closer to 1/4" , mainly due to the coils setting in imo , either way not bad at all and still rides great ! Better than stock .

I've also noticed ZERO mpg change as some have expressed a concern of this , due to raising the front and taking out slight aerodynamics of the truck.

I'm on stock Goodyear tires & wheels / 275-65-20 on 20X9 Chrome Clads.

I am considering .75" - 1" rear coil spring spacers so I'm level when pulling the boat .
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆Edit☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
I've recently installed 1.5" rear coil spacers and I really like the look !

Here's a link to my 1.5" rear coil spacer install.

http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?p=1418741


Back to the Bilsteins install.

I'm terribly happy with the ride . Noticably better than stock imo.

Pretty easy install , if your mechanically inclined and a DIYER a 4 out of 10 imo.
First side took me 2.5 hours( Bilsteins & UCAs ) the second about 1.5 . I rotated my tires in the process jackstands on the floor at the same time .

If your not familiar with this type of work watch this video / it's not the greatest but will give you a good idea of what to prepare for and should give you the confidence to do the install yourself ! I wish I had found this prior to my install..


https://youtu.be/GpLJIln6VBA



I had to wait a week for an alignment, in my case it drove normal prior to the alignment .

Advice :

1) Take pictures of everything prior to disassembly paying close attention to bolt direction , exposed threads beyond the nuts and general orientation of all components .

2) You do not need to disconnect the anti-sway ( count exposed threads) loosen enough to push the lower control arm down for shock & coil removal and reinstallation.

3) Spray WD-40 on all nuts and threads the day before and just prior to the job.

4) Use a quality coil spring compressor with safety locks , this is no area to skimp ! Use an impact to compress the coils litle @ a time side to side , takes 30 seconds with an impact

5) Have metric tools wrenches and sockets 16mm -22mm I think . Have 1/2" drive breaker bar avail , there's a couple stiff tqs to break .

6) for the top nut on the shock assy for removal & install I used an electric impact , had it off in 2 seconds ! Beats struggling with an offset wrench !

7) For the upper control arm( UCA ) ball joint separation , use a separation tool ( Rented ) or as I did WD-40 soak heat with a heat gun then a couple medium taps with a medium hammer straight up on the bottom of the ball joint stud (carefully not to damage the threads)

7a) Important to know where to apply heat with the heat gun . Ref. My photos below, do not heat the black upper control arm, apply Heat to the Silver piece the tapered ball joint stud protrudes through. Heat this until it's just too hot to leave the palm of your hand on it . This will slightly expand this assy and sometimes just fall apart as my 2nd side did


××××××××IMPORTANT STEP×××××××××

8) Very important : washer placement for the bils . It goes on against the piston below the threads then install the upper spring housing assy. then install the top nut ( the washer that comes with the bilsteins DOES NOT go under the nut and contacting the nut ! This washer goes directly on top of the piston because the piston diameter of the Bilsteins are slightly smaller in diameter than the OEM pistons . If you do not install it here , some have had clunking right away and or after a few k miles . Due to the smaller piston diameter wearing out the upper oem assy.

Refer to this excerpt from the Bilstien's installation instructions ( steps 5 & 6 )




All OEM Equipment installed .



OEM Equipment removed .



Bilsteins & Painted Mevotecs installed .



Painted Mevotecs



Before photo



After photos



In this photo It looks nose high , but I had a full tank of gas and 3 deer , my bow and deer stand in the back so about 400 - 500 lbs +gas , this is why I'm thinking of a .75" - 1.0" spacer in the back for when I'm pulling my boat.







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[Maligator]

Got my bils installed today with a tgc .75 rear spacer . Picture doesn't do it much justice looks a little nose high in the photos but the front measure 39.25 and the rear 40.125

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[JB1]

Got my bils installed today with a tgc .75 rear spacer . Picture doesn't do it much justice looks a little nose high in the photos but the front measure 39.25 and the rear 40.125

dang that looks great, I think its the bulge of the sport hood that makes it appear to be nose high. You could always install a bigger rear spacer.

what size tire are you going to get?

 

[Maligator]

dang that looks great, I think its the bulge of the sport hood that makes it appear to be nose high. You could always install a bigger rear spacer.

what size tire are you going to get?

Thanks! Just a simple level on these trucks helps so much. This forum has been a huge help, literally every question I've had I've found the answer in previous posts or answered quickly by members.

I have some Fuel hostages wheels with 295/70R18 Ridge grapplers on the way via the slowest freight service known to man. Hoping Tuesday they'll be in.

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